helijeff

Drumbum,

I used the 120 surpass 1. I only go full throttle in vertical. I never go over half throttle in strieght and level flight.

rmh

rather than split the ailerons -- find a method to join them side to side -this is much more effective.
It would eliminate the up/down couple tho -but who needs that?

drumbum

My Feedback: (1)

flew mine today fle ALOT better .. I havent had a chance to lean the motor out as much as i could, im still running on the dog rich side. because bieleve it or not my O.S. (OLD) FS . had never been run and was in the origional box it was in when it was bought in 89. so im still breaking it in.. i tried a 16x4w but the motor wasnt happy it was reving beyond the torque curve resulting in poor vert perfomance.. i yanked it and put a 17x6 and it was alot better.. Im ordering a 17x4W and a 16x6 to try too. i might have to bend the gear some to get some more height.. its fairly close now.. I enjoyed the plane much better and got more flying time out of it due to not having to use much throttle.. It will hover now form 1/4 to half stick just where i like it

lyndon915

My Feedback: (1)

Mike,
I know that this is completely off topic but what happined to the new 9303 radio. It was on the horizon website and now it isnt.
thanks,
Lyndon Looger

MMcConville

My Feedback: (4)

Not sure what happened to the 9303 onth web-site. It will be available by the end of Sept. BTW, this radio ie REALLY great. I'm quite impressed with what JR done with this one. I think it was worth the wait.

3DEXTRA

[&o] Funtana 50cc -87" 13.5 lb damm I need One[>:]

mithrandir

My Feedback: (2)

OK... my 3 cents...LOL!!
My first request for a 3D'er (or any type) is that the yaw induced coupling be scienced out. The FuntanaS 90 is close... but I bet if the stab was lowered 1/2 inch, and if there was 1/2 inch of dihedral, it would be much closer to fully nulled. My limited experiance is that Tx programed compensation mixing will not null the coupling out thru all flight regimes. But, the closer to nulled you get it with "Aero Adjusting", the less it will be overall.
Second request. Fibreglass parts. All these china built ARF's use some freaky-deeky resin that only CA will stick to. (Vinyl ester? Mono ester?.. but definitely NOT epoxy. I assume this is to facilitate through put!) The glass is too thin. not enuff plies in the areas where the fasteners go thru! I end up CA'ing 1 inch squares of CA hinge where ever a screw goes thru to provide more bearing area for the screw. Wheel pants... fracture too easy.. F-90 does put a small bearing pad of what appears to be lite-ply'ish wood in the wheel pant, but mine cracked just behind this buildup and I have ONLY had Cream-Puff landings! Additionally... the inlet hole of the cowl on the planes LEFT side is counter productive to proper engine cooling. This hole should not be factory cut. Perhaps neither hole should be factory cut. Air going in this hole serves NO cooling purpose, yet competes for exit area with air that does do cooling duty. If someone is equipped to trim the cowl for the head, needle, and exhaust, cutting out a inlet hole, (Especially if it is joggled or recessed) is a no-brainer.
3rd: I think there should ALWAYS be a hinge directly under the control horn! If not, under load, the control surface has the greatest inclination to misalign at the horn. (A hinge immediately adjacent to the horn on both sides will do the same thing).
These remarks seem to be directed at the F-90, primarilly because it is the BEST available in this size/price range.
I would suggest that the ultimate value in a 3D/TOC'ish plane would be in the 2 meter, 78.74 inch/10 to 11 pound range. There are several AWESOME and Affordable motors for this size regime. From an OS 160 to a YS 140. I prefer the OS due to its low price, user friendlyness and fuel economy. (I routinely fly 28 minutes on a 20 ounce tank!!) This size is big enuff to have large plane flying qualities (High damping in all 3 axii) and small enuff with a 2 piece wing to be manageable. In particular, I would consider a YAK 55... the one with the bubble!!! This plane is nearly what we would like without much deviation from scale! Nearly inline engine/wing/stab config. Big control surfaces. I would only consider a fuselage lengthening to get what I think would be just about rite. I will eventually CNC cut molds for one when the divorce is finished LOL!!!
Finally... in the instructions, tell me what the required compensation mixes are approximately. i.e., 1/8" left aileron with 45 degrees left rudder.... etc.

VanWidick

My Feedback: (22)

Mike I wanted to get it straight from the source and an expert in this, Well from seeing what you do and reading other posts and thread your the man.

I wanted to know if its better to put a "Y" for the elevators on the Funtana 90 and also did you have any CG tips. Im putting a YS110 on it. Should I use the stock CG requirements in the manual.

Also I have heard about the stock tanks splitting any word on if I should replace it ?

Also any word on tank placement, I hear go stock position and also I hear go over the CG ?

Any information would be very helpful.

Thanks.

Van

MMcConville

My Feedback: (4)

I wouldnt use a Y for elevator unless your radio necessitates it. Its better to mix and have the flexability to tweak each elevator seperately for trimming. Just be sure your using a radio that allows the channels your mixing to track properly.

As far as CG, I'd start with 7" to 7-1/8" back and go from there to get the feel you like. Its retty much a "3D" CG, which means the model isnt the most pitch damped there, but it is great for 3D.

As for the tank, if using a YS, you might opt to use a different tank. Id probably go bigger as well and get some more air time. With the YS I'd put the tank at the Cg if you can, its fuel system wont have any problems withthat. If using the Saito 100, put it up front.

I flew mine yesterday to take a little break from practicing for the DL Masters. I had forgotten how well the F90 flies. Its really a fun airplane.

DrDeath

My Feedback: (3)

Mike,

I received my replacement Funtana and engine and I have almost finished putting it together (Side note, you guys have GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE!!!). I am looking for a more stable flight pattern. I plan on doing more rolling circles and IMAC type flying than true 3-D (maybe a few elevators and knife edge spins.) What would you think would be a good starting point. The one you just spoke about or more toward the 7" mark?

Setup
Hitec 5625 on all control surfaces
Saito 100
Prop (leaning toward a APC 15x6 or 16x4)

MMcConville

My Feedback: (4)

I'd probably get it around 6-3/4"

rede2fly

My Feedback: (86)

hey mike iam almost done building my 1st of 2 funtanas that i bought. my question is have you or anybody you know done pull pull on the rudder and if so what problems were encountered? also iam putting a os91fx W/a apc 16x4w on it using coolpower 30%heli (the only fuel in my book) should this combo work well for hoverbatics?

rede2fly

My Feedback: (86)

why was the 90 made without pull pull on the rudder?

MMcConville

My Feedback: (4)

Pull Pul should be fine. It was made w/o to simplify the set-up. I personally never use Pull Pull unless I have to in order to balance the model. Even on 40% models, with the new 8611 allowing us to eliminate 2 elevator servos in the tail,I've gone back to tail mounted rudder servos.

VanWidick

My Feedback: (22)

Mike I have the funtana 90 and Im putting on a YS110. Do you recommend the engine to be mounted upside down or on its side where the high speed needle is pointed up.

OR do you have any other or better suggestions.

You can email me direct if you want at [email protected]

Thanks,

Van

VanWidick

My Feedback: (22)

Hey you should get a YS110 for your funtana 90 you will have unlimited vertical and should be very happy. I know you like saito and or are used to it, just a suggestion.

MMcConville

My Feedback: (4)

I'd mount the YS on its side.

mithrandir

My Feedback: (2)

Well. I live at 3000 feet and it was 100 degrees last sunday. The SAITO 100 was just not enuff... Hover at 95% power with YS 20/20 fuel. I switched to an OS 108, and not much improvement. Tonight the ol'reliable OS 160 is goin on.... SPEED KILLS... NOT POWER!!! LOL... I am about 1 pound heavier... I guess I will stick the battery in the tail, But not having any reserve power in a TR is just no fun!!!
I know some people will question my sanity, but I have read in these forums of people putting SAITO 180's on this plane... If it will survive that, the OS 160 should be a walk'in'da'park!!
I will keep yuh'all posted!

mithrandir

My Feedback: (2)

OK.. Let me Summarize...
Hanger 9 FuntanaS 90
Futaba 9 ZAP
S9102 servos on rudder and each aileron
S3004 on each elevator and throttle @ 5 cell (6 volt)
OS 160 with PERRY Pump and Tank @ CG (Almost LOL)
18 x 6W apc prop
10.00 pounds with CG @ 6.125"
F'n WOW!!!
Now this thing flies like a true 3D plane. Hovers at about 60% power. It does vertical rolls at about 2 per second!! It is NOSE HEAVY, but I will trade nose heavy for power in this instance. I have NOT exposed the plane to any sustained FULL POWER LEVEL FLIGHT conditions. I HAVE done extended FULL POWER VERTICAL Flight conditions. It is as fast vertically at full power with the 160 as it was horizontally with the SAITO!!! I am gonna figure out some way to move the battery pack to the back end to get a less bad CG. Rudder effectiveness reduced in a TR by fwd CG. I had to butcher the cowl a bit on the bottom to get the exhaust to fit, but not noticaeble in the air. Very solid in AOA's up to 50 degrees or so... This plane has been awoken with this power!!! I would not be satisfied with much less power... and I think most other 3D'ers feel the same. I was at 8.6 pounds with the saito 100... so it cost me a bit of weight... but at 10 pounds it still is extremely easy to land tail wheel first... with the 18 inch prop, you MUST land tail wheel first!! LOL In fact.. don't let the tail come up on take off either... I LOVE THIS PLANE!!!!!
I know I may get a bunch of warnings about the servos I use... really guys... its OK... I DON"T FLY FAST!!! And the Rudder and Elevators... see the little bit of control surface ahead of the hinge line??? That REDUCES req'd servo torque!!!
SPEED KILLS... NOT POWER!!!!! (And besides.. I bet it vibrates LESS with the OS 160 then the SAITO 100!!!!)

drumbum

My Feedback: (1)

ive tried a 91 FS pumped and a 1.20 FS still a dog. i cured it this time i got a Y.S. 1.40DZ coming.. getting tired of messing with it.. but i still have my trusty U-Can-Do. If the 1.40 blows the wings off.. I can always get a EF Yak 54 and get it overwith and go do some 3D instead of working and working on a plane to get it to fly like its supposed to. Im on 30 something flights never abused or landed hard and its allready self destructing. I dont care how its supposed to fly its my first and last H9 plane.. Ive been more than patient setting it up and correcting balance issues moving servos, changing motors. and nothing spectacular. oh well cant wait for the grilling replys on this post and how great this plane is. I have a $99 dollar extreme flight mini 3d that toasts this plane in perfomance. I guess my idea of standards in a plane were higher than what i really got especially with all the smoke blown all over this board about it.. H9 dont send me any money so i can give my REAL opinion of it.. also its not the first 3d plane ive owned.
so i can judge the flying of mine against others ive flown. also having to put a motor on a plane that is way over whats recomended. to get a plane to fly as advertized Is BU*****T. they know you are going to put a bigger motor on it so when somthing happens to it they can say HEY you voided you warranty. and its not just the funtana i have a friend that has a H9 extra and read the box and it said it will fly with a g62. Yea it will fly like a REAL J3 with a 15hp briggs.It didndt even have enough to make a loop without falling out. i KNOW i test flew it for him. told him to yank it and put a DA100 on it.he did and it flys like a dream. no more 2 football field takeoffs..NICE plane but $899 [:-]

PHHEW i feel better now..

Buzzard Dave

Hey Mike, only just discovered this thread, glad you are asking....hope you are still checking/monitoring.....

I really like the Funtana90. I add my voice to those asking for ARC and/or solid color versions of your models. I used to mostly build from kits, but do now have 33% Cap, Funtana 90 (and another arf from another company). I have to say these are great...but i would really like to do more of the finishing - including having my own color scheme.


thanks, and keep up the good work!

David S. - Tampa, FL.

DTB

My Feedback: (15)

I'd like to see some of these "true" 3D ARF's such as the Funtana S 90 come with pre-drilled Robart hinge slots instead of CA hinge slots. I guess that would be supporting a particular company and anyone can make CA hinges that would fit the CA slots.

Thanks,
DTB

DTB

My Feedback: (15)

Mike, this is a little off subject, but does this plane have any up-thrust dialed in? I was flying inverted with a little speed and let off the throttle and the plane went up. That would mean flying right-side up, the plane would drop. I noticed some of that, but thought it was gravity pulling it down, but the inverted performance really caught my eye when it did that. I am using the stock motor mount with a YS 1.10FZ. CG is just shy of being 7" from the LE.

Thanks,
Derrick (DTB)

harrymc

Mike,
I've been flying a Funtana 40 with a Satio 72 and an APC 14X4w prop. I'm learning to fly 3D. There were several club member who said they had had a Funtana and it wouldn't hover. However, yesterday a fellow club member who flys a Funtana 90, flew my Funtanta 40. He hovered the plane with little problem.
I've just replaced the Satio 72 with a Satio 82. My question is, what prop should I use to get all I can with this new engine? I thought it should be a APC 15x4W, but I'm not sure.

Thanks!
Harry

MMcConville

My Feedback: (4)

I'm not sure on that one. I'd start withthe same prop as you used on the .72 and just let the engine turn it harder.