mogman

I do all my laminating with Titebond or Elmers (yellow glue). I try to do the gluing in the evening, weight everything down ( I use house bricks) on a flat surface, leave it overnight, by morning it's dry. It doesn't take much glue, just a thin film does the trick.
Firewalls ...titebond and dowel pinned. It works, I have a Moki 400 on a firewall put together like that. I hardly ever use epoxy.

LesUyeda

"sheet will cause it to warp because of water seeping into the grain"

ANY lamination process, would necessarily require some sort of clamping action to hold things together, till the glue/adhesive dried, and should not allow warping.

Les

acerc

Wood glue work's best in every application when dealing with wood. It penetrate's deeper hold's stronger. I prefer Titebond II. Epoxy does not penetrate it sit's on the surface. And epoxy is brittle. Do a test useing two pieces of lightply, one with wood glue and one with epoxy. The one with epoxy can be seperated with a gentle tap and without tearing the wood where the wood glue will not seperate without shredding the wood. The only time I use epoxy is wing joiner's where I want the hole filled and solid. And for fuel proofing. If one does not want to wait for it to dry, put a thin film on both surface's let it glaze over join the piece's and apply heat. Take's a total of about two minute's with this method and does not compromise the strength. Of course all this is just MHO.

KW_Counter

Titebond 2 is more water resistant than Titebond 1 but doesn't sand well.
Titebond 3 is more water resistant than Titebond 2 and does sand well.

Good Luck,
KW_Counter

AA5BY

Robert... that is interesting about using heat on alphatic glue... I'll try that.

acerc

 When I was first told about it I thought the guy was full of manure. Then I tried it with some scrap and wah lah. Sheeting is especially easier, when glazed over set piece in place, wet the outer surface, apply heat. The water really help's to curve the sheeting.

LesUyeda

"Epoxy does not penetrate it sit's on the surface. And epoxy is brittle."

Not true on both counts. All epoxies are NOT created equal. It depends on the type that you use. "The right tool for the job" applies.

Les

acerc

Les, my statement is a generalization of hobby epoxies which most use. And you probably know that or else you would not have said all epoxies are not created equal. I myself don't use a couple ounce's a year so even I am not going to buy a better commercial grade epoxy. The 30-45 minute epoxy serves my minimal need's. Thus compareing the two, hobby grade epoxy to wood glue, my statement is true. Epoxy sits on the surface and is brittle.

acerc

Kw, you are absolutely correct. But for me III get's a little to hard. The sanding is minimal so I don't mind the softer II. Now if we were top coating with it I would rather use III, but that is not going to happen. Titebond III also has a problem with bleed out and chalking under heat. That in itself give's me enough pause when you consider our plane's sit out in the sun at the field. What else could be going on that we are not aware of there.

LesUyeda

"Les, my statement is a generalization of hobby epoxies which most use.

I dont know which hobby epoxies "most" use, BUT, even in hobby epoxies, all are NOT created equal. It depends on which flavor/brand you use.

Les

acerc

Wharever.

KW_Counter

Thanks for the additional info, AceRC.
I really like the GG for repairing outdoor furniture.
Really fills in the gaps and grabs strong.

Mostly use Elmer's on planes but have used GG when surface aren't a perfect mesh.

KW_Counter