Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
#53
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From: Glen Robertson, ON, CANADA
Thanks for the photos David, that is some rig, I just love it.
When you go flying, you mean business.
This is what I would need to go off on the promotional tours with the ACM 52% Edge and Whiplash, and bunk bed and the family sink
When you go flying, you mean business.
This is what I would need to go off on the promotional tours with the ACM 52% Edge and Whiplash, and bunk bed and the family sink
#54
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From: WA
Thanks for posting your photos!! Your trailer has massive space and looks easy to tow.
Keep these photos coming guys!!
I have two more fellas at my field shopping for trailers now. They are tired of the pickup and van routine. They have room for a couple models, but no one can ride in the vehicle with them.
As for having a bouncy trailer, I think your better off with a torsion suspension over the leaf spring. Remeber, we are hauling around balsa here so the suspensions hardly move while driving.
I have a second trailer that has leaf springs, and man, does that baby bounce hard.
C&B
Keep these photos coming guys!!
I have two more fellas at my field shopping for trailers now. They are tired of the pickup and van routine. They have room for a couple models, but no one can ride in the vehicle with them.
As for having a bouncy trailer, I think your better off with a torsion suspension over the leaf spring. Remeber, we are hauling around balsa here so the suspensions hardly move while driving.
I have a second trailer that has leaf springs, and man, does that baby bounce hard.
C&B
#55
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From: Glen Robertson, ON, CANADA
Originally posted by crash and burn
Thanks for posting your photos!! Your trailer has massive space and looks easy to tow.
Keep these photos coming guys!!
I have two more fellas at my field shopping for trailers now. They are tired of the pickup and van routine. They have room for a couple models, but no one can ride in the vehicle with them.
As for having a bouncy trailer, I think your better off with a torsion suspension over the leaf spring. Remeber, we are hauling around balsa here so the suspensions hardly move while driving.
I have a second trailer that has leaf springs, and man, does that baby bounce hard.
C&B
Thanks for posting your photos!! Your trailer has massive space and looks easy to tow.
Keep these photos coming guys!!
I have two more fellas at my field shopping for trailers now. They are tired of the pickup and van routine. They have room for a couple models, but no one can ride in the vehicle with them.
As for having a bouncy trailer, I think your better off with a torsion suspension over the leaf spring. Remeber, we are hauling around balsa here so the suspensions hardly move while driving.
I have a second trailer that has leaf springs, and man, does that baby bounce hard.
C&B
I agree with the torsion bars, but since the trailer mechanics allready exists, I am not prepared to modify this part of it, but by removing a leaf, and possibly add small shock absorbers.
#56
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From: Oxford, MS
Both of my trailers have had the torsion bars and I can tell you they both ride very smoothly. I don't even tie down the support equipment at the front and it never moves.
I have a friend that just bought a 48' trailer that has living space in the front of it and room for his planes and a golf cart in the back. He will be at our event (Mississippi Afterburner) this weekend and I will get some pictures of it.
Easy to tow.....YES, Massive space...well it is empty right now. I have another jet to put in there before this weekend, and will be taking (2) 15 gallon jugs to the airport in a few minutes to fill them up with Jet-A. I wish mine was 28'.....hehe too many toys!
I want to add some shelves to the front to make it a little more orginized, and I will also be adding a couple of high capacity marine batteries for additional time with the lights on. Right now the lights will last about 2 hours on a charge. The battery charges from the truck while pulling the trailer down the road.
DR
Your trailer has massive space and looks easy to tow.
Easy to tow.....YES, Massive space...well it is empty right now. I have another jet to put in there before this weekend, and will be taking (2) 15 gallon jugs to the airport in a few minutes to fill them up with Jet-A. I wish mine was 28'.....hehe too many toys!
I want to add some shelves to the front to make it a little more orginized, and I will also be adding a couple of high capacity marine batteries for additional time with the lights on. Right now the lights will last about 2 hours on a charge. The battery charges from the truck while pulling the trailer down the road.
DR
#57
OK here is my progression on the trailer.
Its getting close to being finished.
The trailer is made out of wood 5/8" ply secured at all seams by 2" X 2" angle iron, glued with liquid nail, bolted with 1/4" bolts every 8" apart, and 2"X 4" layered ever 3' on the inside also bolted to the angle iron. The door will also be wrapped with angle using heavy duty barn door henge's and the lock, I will be using a cam lock. I plan on welding plate on each side of the lock so it can't be cut.
Cam lock, its the kind you see on the back of those 18 wheeler trailers, long shaft from top to the bottom of the door with a handle that swings over the top of the half that you lock, at the top and bottom of the door, it has hooks that latch into welded eyes.
If I had it to do over again I would have used sheet metal siding instead of wood.
Its getting close to being finished.
The trailer is made out of wood 5/8" ply secured at all seams by 2" X 2" angle iron, glued with liquid nail, bolted with 1/4" bolts every 8" apart, and 2"X 4" layered ever 3' on the inside also bolted to the angle iron. The door will also be wrapped with angle using heavy duty barn door henge's and the lock, I will be using a cam lock. I plan on welding plate on each side of the lock so it can't be cut.
Cam lock, its the kind you see on the back of those 18 wheeler trailers, long shaft from top to the bottom of the door with a handle that swings over the top of the half that you lock, at the top and bottom of the door, it has hooks that latch into welded eyes.
If I had it to do over again I would have used sheet metal siding instead of wood.
#58
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From: Glen Robertson, ON, CANADA
[If I had it to do over again I would have used sheet metal siding instead of wood]
Your trailer is looking real good, you've done a great job. as for the wood finish, You can still fix that if you wish.
My trailer is made of plywood also, but I am covering it with prepainted aluminum that I purchase from the home renovation center. I start from the back and on forward by overlapping a bit. The way I attach it, Is to use aluminum pop rivets.
Since I'm in the process of doing it now, I can take a few photos and show you how and the finish.
Your trailer is looking real good, you've done a great job. as for the wood finish, You can still fix that if you wish.
My trailer is made of plywood also, but I am covering it with prepainted aluminum that I purchase from the home renovation center. I start from the back and on forward by overlapping a bit. The way I attach it, Is to use aluminum pop rivets.
Since I'm in the process of doing it now, I can take a few photos and show you how and the finish.
#59
I was planing on painting it the way it was. weight is now becoming a factor. aerografixs how much weight would that aluminum add to the trailer do you think? and yes please send me pics.
Thanks
Randy
Thanks
Randy
#67
I have elected not to go with the sheet metal leaving the trailer with just the plywood, however I am going to primer the trailer and put a couple of coats of protecting paint on the wood.
I have a gaped seam that runs from front to back about 3/4 way up on the trailer that I plan ou using liquid nail to fill in with. The 2X4's are in place and are working great. I have found that the liquid nail bonds so well that there is really no need for the 2X4's but they were needed to hold both pieces of ply together. I have the door frame welded in place and the door it self cut. I will continue the work early next week.
Randy
I have a gaped seam that runs from front to back about 3/4 way up on the trailer that I plan ou using liquid nail to fill in with. The 2X4's are in place and are working great. I have found that the liquid nail bonds so well that there is really no need for the 2X4's but they were needed to hold both pieces of ply together. I have the door frame welded in place and the door it self cut. I will continue the work early next week.
Randy
#68
I am almost complete I should be ready to paint before this weekend. The door was by far the hardest part of this trailer The plywood for the door had become bowed over time thus leaving my no choice but to lay a cut piece of 2 x 4 to straighten it out.
I would have taken more pictures but my double AA's petered out on my before I could get another shot off. (where are the
Ni-Cds when you need them.)
I would have taken more pictures but my double AA's petered out on my before I could get another shot off. (where are the
Ni-Cds when you need them.)
#69
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From: Glen Robertson, ON, CANADA
Man your trailer is looking real good, keep up the good work.
As for the door, I know what you mean, I am having the same problem.
As for the door, I know what you mean, I am having the same problem.
#70
Thanks aerografixs, I can tell you this, in that this trailer is eating our lunch. If we had a better idea of how this thing goes together and the proper tools to work with I am sure it would have gone together a lot easier. The fact that we are guessing our way through it all seems to be working quite well.
Randy
Randy
#72
If you want to see trailers, the place to be is Joe Nall. Hundreds and hundreds.
I just returned and from receiving many positive comments, feel this is the best way to effectively utilize the space inside your trailer.
Mine is a Wells Cargo (the best, but pricey) 6X12 single axle. I tow it easily throughout Florida and the SE with a small V6 pickup or a minivan.
I fabricate former cutouts (from the A/C plans) onto 5/8" plywood cradles, which are securily bolted (NOT SCREWED) to heavy-duty shelf brackets. The brackets are bolted and/or screwed into the steel vertical framework of the trailer.
Of course heavy padding is absolutely necessary in the cradle.
This system allows me to easily transport 4 giant warbirds (like a Meister P-47 - huge!) yet still have the floor open to walk into or place additional equipment /planes.
The wings are supported in the traditional fashion-horizontal rails across the width of the trailer.
Forget about bungee's. Not only do they weaken, they are extremely dangerous. I remember a story of one snapping back into the face of some unfortunate individual and him losing an eye. Purchased several yards of velcro and loop it through electrical conduit hangers ( cowboy clamps for those in the trade) taht get clamped onto the rails.
Good Luck,
Nick
I just returned and from receiving many positive comments, feel this is the best way to effectively utilize the space inside your trailer.
Mine is a Wells Cargo (the best, but pricey) 6X12 single axle. I tow it easily throughout Florida and the SE with a small V6 pickup or a minivan.
I fabricate former cutouts (from the A/C plans) onto 5/8" plywood cradles, which are securily bolted (NOT SCREWED) to heavy-duty shelf brackets. The brackets are bolted and/or screwed into the steel vertical framework of the trailer.
Of course heavy padding is absolutely necessary in the cradle.
This system allows me to easily transport 4 giant warbirds (like a Meister P-47 - huge!) yet still have the floor open to walk into or place additional equipment /planes.
The wings are supported in the traditional fashion-horizontal rails across the width of the trailer.
Forget about bungee's. Not only do they weaken, they are extremely dangerous. I remember a story of one snapping back into the face of some unfortunate individual and him losing an eye. Purchased several yards of velcro and loop it through electrical conduit hangers ( cowboy clamps for those in the trade) taht get clamped onto the rails.
Good Luck,
Nick
#75
The trailer is complete all except a box that I will be building for the tongue of the trailer to house a battery and other items.
The rack method I used was 1" pvc pipe secured to the 2X4 studs via wood screws and used soft cotton rope to tie the wings and fuselage's to the rack.
If there are any questions as to how I constructed this trailer and inters please contact me via email.
The rack method I used was 1" pvc pipe secured to the 2X4 studs via wood screws and used soft cotton rope to tie the wings and fuselage's to the rack.
If there are any questions as to how I constructed this trailer and inters please contact me via email.



