alphaorion,

the frame is what supports the inner and outer walls.... so therefore the E TRACK or any thing else can be mounted to the Frame rails or if you use a thick 3/4 " ply you can even use the ply wall as a mounting area...

-hope this helps...

-TOMAS
VQ WARBIRDS
www.vqwarbirds.com
[email protected]

Here is a pick of a trailer that shows the supports.

Link: http://www.wellscargo.com/wellscargo...gineering&id=5

Jerry,

I have yet to fully engineer the wing strap down methodology........... The dowels that are covered with pipe insulation have screw eyes in the ends for a starting point for whatever method. As I have all winter to think about it......[sm=52_52.gif] The velcro has crossed my mind along with shock cord (bungee) and flat elastic ........... we'll see. I entertain all ideas! [sm=idea.gif]

AlphaOrion,

It was a little pricey but I ordered the e-track installed from the trailer manufacturer. Each one that you see in my pictured is welded to a frame rib and then finished around it. That way I didn't have to put in any thick plywood, saving on weight. I also think that the vertical setup lends itself to a more versitile set-up for shelving. I'm not limited to a specific shelf height.

Question, and excuse my ignorance if I missed it somewhere.

As I look at the photos of most of the trailers, I see the wings being supported in horizontal or slightly angled supports. Being space is such a precious thing in a small trailer, would it not make more sense to rack the wings in an almost vertical style, where the wing LE is sitting on the top of the support and just slightly angled out?


Least how I'm seeing it, you would gain a couple of inches of space where if you're trying to squeeze past wings on one side and fuselages on the other, any added clearance would be a bonus.

That's a great thing about this thread. You can incorporate ideas from others into your trailer, and change other things to your liking.

Feel free to post pics of how yours turns out.

Yeah Tom, I like how folks can take an idea, and expand upon it. I mentioned my idea of the new wing storage to a couple of my buds, and didn't take them long to come up with an even better idea. Take the rack and hinge it. Wings up in a near vertical position for storage, stacked like in a file bin. Then flip a lever and down they all rotate to the near horizontal position for ease of access.

And yeah with anything you discuss with flying buds, some ideas do get tossed. Like powering the rack so all you do is flip a switch to operate the rack. The idea of loud crunching balsa because you didn't have something stored correctly put that one to the side........................for now.

I hinged my racks, but horizontally. I seldom use the fuselage rack, as most of my birds have the LG fxed to the fuselage.

Tom, your pictures gave me a good idea regarding the addition of d-rings. While doing some research, I found about Anchortrax. Wells Cargo seem to be using these on their trailers. I will explore more about this.

After some careful design using sketchup, and thinking it all through, I decided against building it myself (time constraints and a desire for a top notch end-result) so I went today to the manufacturer and discussed some of the options.

I decided on it to be 12 feet long, 5 1/2 wide, and 6 feet tall. all these are interior measurements, and will all accommodate large wingspans of up to 140".

The base will be iron, painted and treated for corrosion. The rest will be aluminum profiles with aluminum siding that already includes oven cured paint. All edges are sealed with silicone. Will have flat spring suspension on 15 inch wheels, single axle, and I will add one caster wheel jack, and on the back, a couple of stabilizer jacks, so that I can leave the trailer unhitched and be able to work inside with no fear of a tilting trailer.

Side opening back doors and a side door measuring 27 inches wide instead of the standard 23 or 24 they use here.

All doors will have a proper seal so that way no dust comes in for long storage periods.

What I am still thinking about is how to run additional electricity connections.
I basically need 12 V for charging, maybe using a deep cycle 12V, to which I can hook up my chargers, inverter, etc. I still need to figure out exactly how many amps and how large an inverter, and of course some sort of transformer to convert 110 ac to 12VDC so I can plug it in the night before flying to charge the babies.

Photos, plans and details to come soon

Tips appreciated.

My dealer sold me the D-rings at cost, when I bought the trailer. I used up a bag of 50, but I have a ring in any spot I desire. LOL

My 12V deep cycle battery doubles as my flight box battery. It's mounted in a cart, and has quick disconnects that go to the trailer's wiring. By doing this, I can run the trailer's interior lighting without being connected to the tow vehicle. Like a camper, mine i wired so the battery can be charged by the tow vehicle during transport.

Also like a camper, I can run an extension cord from a 110 source, and plug into the trailer to provide household current to outlets inside the trailer.

I recently added an awning to provide shade on those hot Summer days, also from a camper.

My neighbor used to own an RV repair facility. He aked what I'd like to have in my trailer, and offered suggestions. I bought the stuff, and he did the installations............. for free !!!

Nice neighbor to have Tom!

I was actually also thinking of having a wheeled cart with a 12V.

D-rings sound like the cheapest, quickest, simplest option. Will go for those.

Ironically, this trailer willl not be driven much around. Plans for it are for it to be driven twice or three times a year about 160km round trip.
The rest will be spent under a large roof (or outdoors) so I can drive it out to the flying area (less than 2 min drive) and have no dealings with loading and unloading planes more than is necessary. Its basically a "storage" trailer.

This implies, that I will not be charging it that often with the car, but I will certainly need a 110V plugin, outlets inside.

In doing a basic "needs" list, I came up with the following:
1. 110V AC Outlets inside, 2 or 3 boxes.
2. 110V AC charger for 12V batteries. I am planning on using a marine charger. Where I am is only 20 km from the pacific ocean.
3. Some sort of fault protection (clueless as to what is a good idea, also planning on searching for marine tailored stuff)
4. 12V deep cycle battery (Installed on the trailers front in a Box, easily removeable, with a tube entering the trailer with cables.
5. 12V Bus with banana plugs, points for alligator clips, lighter plugs.
6. 12V dome lights.
7. 12V fan. (It gets really hot where I fly)
8. 12V inverter (In case i need to use dremel, charge a computer, video camera, or use other 110V AC accesory at the field.)
9. 12V Line protection from the battery in case of overloads.

Your trailer usage will be similar to mine. I live a half hour from my field. The trailer store my models, giving me more room in my shop.

I have a 110V charger in the trailer, power is supplied via and extension cord, running to the trailer from the shop. The shop's wiring has ground fault protection, but I put in a ground fault outlet in the trailer, too.

The ability to charge from the tow vehicle takes about a half hour to wire up. It's nice, but not necessary.

Most of what you need should be available at camper supply houses. The rest at discount stores, like Home Depot, or Lowe's.

My inverter is mounted in my flight box. It's an inexpensive unit. Sorry, I don't know the specs. My neighbor "loaned" it to me, and won't take any $$$$ for it, or take it back !

Have you considered ventilation ? My neighbor installed a covered roof vent, purchased at the RV supply house. I put in 2 side vents, near the floor, that I bought from my trailer dealership. The combination of vents helps to keep air moving inside the trail, when it's closed up.

Tom,

thanks for the reply!

I am having the tow bar and 2" ball installed on my 4 Runner today as I write this.
The trailer has been "commisioned" and the trailermaker is having a slow January start. No business these days! So he'll be done in about 2 weeks.
Yes, I considered ventilation on the top, and might get one of the dome vents. How watertight are the floor vents?

Meantime I spent most of yesterday planning for the electrical system. I came up with the following:

1. As you said, charging from the tow vehicle seems more like a hassle, so I am leaving out that ability. All I will have are some 12V Long jumper cables that I can run from my car's battery to the trailer, in a worst case scenario. (Either to supply car power to a small load, or to jump start my car)
2. Most of the batteries available in my country are the maintenance types, so I was thinking to go Marine -style. I will get a pair of 100 Ah 12V deep cycle gels from the boating markets here. Wired in parallel for my overestimated 200Ah consumption.
4. A Xantrex truecharge will take care of the charging of the bank.
5. From there, i will install a PERKO marine switch to turn off or on the whole system, preceeded by a filter or regulator to prevent anything more than 12v from running down the line.
6. A line from here to a pair of battery posts at the rear (inside) of the trailer, so I can hook up my sullivan hi-tork.
7. A line for the inverter, which, instead of purchasing one, I will use an existing 400 Watt monster power, enough for charging a laptop or running a dremel, etc.
8. A fuse or distribution box (still deciding whether I want fuses, (cheaper in the long run) or aviation type circuit breakers (pricey, but no need to change fuses if it is a simple overload). http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...ircuitbrkr.php
9. I will have one circuit for 4 dome lights 16 LEDs each (marine too)
10. 4 10 AMP circuits to power chargers
11. 3 5 AMP circuits to power lower consumption chargers
12. One circuit for the fan
13. One or two circuits for 12V lighter plug ins
14. Grounding devices.

I will explore some of the RV stuff online, maybe I can get better deals with chargers, etc. Our local dealers have little or no RV stuff, they mostly do Marine, which offer similar 12V stuff. I also fly real planes, and will tap some of our electrician techs to helps me out with circuit breakers not good enough to be airworthy, but good enough to be trailerworthy!. The cables, and other hardware are readily available in our local versions of Home Depot or Lowe's

As soon as they have the trailer at least half-built, I will begin taking pictures and sharing

My vents aren't mounted in the floor, but on the sides, just above floor level. Their design prevents moisture from penetrating the interiot when they are closed.

You have a solid plan, for the enhancements to add to your trailer.

Guys,

I am looking for the best way to ship a trailer cross country: the idea is to ship it to attend the Joe Nall event, and then ship it back, saving us having to spend several days driving.
Any help would be appreciated in finding the best/most economical way to do this.

Thanks.

I do not know a specific company, but i would try companys that ship cars across the country. they advertise all the tme on ebay motors. i think it is aproxamatly $500.00 to ship from texas. you shoud be able to get a quote over the enternet. I look forward to seeing you at the Nall. Come buy and check out our valkyrie big build project in the hanger.

Mark
www.joenall.com

Mark,

Thanks for the tip, I will look into this on Monday.

Finally I was able to visit the trailer maker today, and they have completed the main structure of the trailer, doors are also assembled save for the aluminum covering. Shortage of material is making it all slower, but this next week they promised to work it faster.

The axle was elsewhere being assembled.

Will post more when it gets the rest.

very interesting, looking forward to seeing it assembled.

all these pics of nice setups gets me excited to get started on mine. put a deposit on a 5x8 v nose homesteader yesterday. if i can get out of work early enough i hope to pick it up tomorrow.

I picked up a CargoPro 6.5 x 12 V-Nose with barn doors and a side door. All kinds of ideas for building it out are running through my head. Must hold planes, must have power (batteries and inverter) and, of course, the ability to play tunes.

I think we're on the same wave length. gonna see if i can do all that and find an inexpensive tv for those too windy to fly days out at the field. hopefully going to get started on it this weekend. I have an inverter already, but its a 400, probably going to keep that one for a back up and get a 1000 watt.

I am researching a 1500 watt inverter that has a battery charger and automatic transfer switch for when you are hooked to house power or genertator - sounds like a great solution. Floor tiles on the way, going to put a battery bank and run both 12v lighting and chrage ports as well as 110v front and back. E-Track to run planes shelves - then I will be good to go.

I'm working on a 7x16 trailer myself. If you look back to the first 20 original posts on this thread about wanting to build a trailer is my first post. Well 8 years later I finally got one. I don't have any actual pictures yet, but have a 3d view of my design in progress. Image attached. Anyway I have been making the wall rails and front base cabinet. Trying to come up with a solution that provides the most configuration options.

Eventually I will have 110v Shore and Gen power with 12v lighting and charge ports. Plan to utilize Golf cart batteries, RV bearker panel, Power inverter with auto transfer. 13 btu A/C unit. Trailer will have the ablility to transport may style planes and helicopters.

I will try and get some pics this weekend. Plan to work on it and fly as well since weather is expected to be nice. So not sure how far I will get this weekend as I need to paint the interior white before I get to far along on the customizing.

MadDawg

Sounds like that is going to be a very nice set-up - look forward to seeing some pictrures.

Shawn,

Awesome design! I like what you have done with the supports for the aircraft. It sounds a bit more logical than what I had planned which was just tall 2x4's with round angled pegs to insert 1 in ch diameter dowels as adjustable supports. What are you using in particular for this design?

UPDATE: They called in from the trailer maker and they have basically finished the main structure, axle installation, ouside painting, doors, external lights, etc. etc. I will visit them next week to have the jack with wheel installed, while they set up the plywood internal paneling. I am also waiting for my d-rings and planning and setting up the plane holding system.

The electrical stuff needed for "ease of use" is already here, and I am attaching a picture of my marine electrical hardware, clockwise from top left:
1. Xantrex 40 Amp 12V automatic charger and optimizer, with 110-220v input auto select.
2. Perko ON/OFF switch. I will use this between the batteries and charger and the Fuse BUS.
3. 2 8 LED + 2 16 LED dome lamps to illuminate the trailer well with minimal load, day or night.
4. 2 fuse buses for up to 14 circuits.
5. a Xantrex battery monitor to measure amp hours in or out, voltage, etc. Fully programmable. I don't want to b e guessing how much I will have in my batteries.

NOT PICTURED:
2 75 Amp hour 12V deep cycle batteries in parallel for a total 150 Amp hour battery bank. I wanted to use golf cart type, but they are a bit too expensive here. Once I set the trailer up with these two, I will be able to change them.
7 pairs of Banana Plug terminals from Peak Electronics. These will run off the fuse buses and I will directly plug my fast chargers into them.
2 12V car cigarrette receptacles for running impromptu inverters, other chargers, or gadgets
ABC Fire extinguisher

Basically I am running power to the fuse buses, then distributing to both sides and front of the trailer internally, well secured with plastic tubing to prevent chafing, between outer aluminum wall and plywood inner walls (which will be removeable). The ground will be the trailer frame.

Power from the batteries before the switch will also include two terminals at the rear that will let me use alligator clips for starters, and a 400W inverter for the inside front of the trailer to run my laptop or cell phone, camera, other toy chargers.

The 12v terminals at the rear will be covered properly, the inverter has an off switch, and the perko switch will enable me to kill power to the trailer immediately to avoid any short circuits and potential fires.

While I get the shore power attachments, I will run the Xantrex charger with a 20 foot cord through side door to charge 12V batteries. This charger allows me to charge the batteries while using a modest load (2 Amps for all 4 led dome lamps and one or two plane chargers with up to a 10 Amp consumption) I estimated that I can fully charge from empty the 12V battery bank while I also charge one or two planes in about 5-7 hours, and realistically, be able to fly the next day, charge each plane as I finish with it, and by the time I am done, the only remaining charge items will be the last two planes and the consumed Amps from the 12V bank.

It's looking good so far. Now I need to save up for some beasty planes deserving of the space with wheels I am creating!