Good day all and thanks for reading.

I've built five models up until now and I'm working on my sixth.
The wing is built and sheeted and I am about to put the cap strips on.
On each of my previous models the cap strips have always befuddled me.
The curve of the airfoil prevents the cap strips from being simple. This curve puts a relatively large load on the cap strip (considering it's size). Now it is very easy to place the cap strip dry with your fingers and have it look amazing. Once I put glue on, the initial placement becomes quite difficult. When it is in place how to clamp them is even more difficult. I've tried various small clamps they usually do not have enough pressure to hold that curve especially near the wing spar. I've tried weighing them down with no success and pinning is usually a futile effort. I've also tried gluing down the strip nearest the spar waiting for it to dry then bending the trailing part to fit. This method more often than not results in mismatched strips (not PERFECTLY parrallel).....

To date I have become rather good at building airplanes but I am rather embarrased that I can't complete this seemingly simple procedure without a great deal of swearing and frustration.

Can someone please help???

Thanks,
B

What I do is to mark the rib locations on the leading & trailing edge sheeting, then cut the cap strip a little bigger than needed,(very slightly), Then run a bead of white glue along the rib, push the strip into place and zap the two ends with thin CA. Works every time.

Making the cap strip a tight fit sure helps like Irish says. The friction at the end combined with a pin is just enough to hold it. A little weight doesn't hurt either.

Tom

I use the exact same method as Irish. Try it, you will like it.

I cut my cap strips to length and apply med ca to the rib. I then center the cap strip on the rib just behind the sheeting and lay it down front to back. Hold it for a couple of seconds, and its a done deal.

I do something similar to Irish's method.

I put a drop of med CA at each end of where the cap strip will go, then a drop in the center of the rib. Next, run a bead of carpenters glue along the rest of the rib, staying about 1/2" away from the CA (Just so the two don't mix).

Hold it in place for a few seconds, and start the next one.

I use bhole74's method and it works very well. You don't get the hardened CA spot at the joints like you will if you tack down the ends with CA after glueing the strip to the rib with white glue.

I do like some of the others but lay med CA down the rib and hit it with kicker after it lays down.

David

I use medium CA as well. I cut the strip to perfect length, then just put a nice little bead of CA along the top of the rib, and then apply the strip and hold it for 10-20 seconds until the medium CA sets, and it is perfect.

Patriot

For a weight to hold curved parts such as cap strips in place a cloth bag filled with #9 shot works great.

jess

I do it MinnFlyer's way... fit the strip well, use a drop of medium CA at each end and the middle of the rib, wood glue the rest of the way, and hold it in place for 12 seconds or so. Excellent results with no mess so far.

Same here....thin CA at the ends, but use white glue the rest of the way (it's cheaper )

Jerry

Another way to is to shape the cap strip into an arc. Briefly soak the strip in water and gently roll it with a rod, brass tube, etc. on a hard, clear, flat surface such as a piece of glass or a reasonably thick plate of aluminum. The rolling action will form a curve in the strip. Trim to length and install it with your favorite adhesive.

I put the end of the strip against the sheeting, then use a capillary tube to put a small drop of thin CA at the joint. No excess this way.

Then I bend the strip over the rib, use a razor saw to cut the end to a tight fit, and hit it with a drop of CA. Its easy to finger-feel the rib and align it so its even on the rib.

After I get all the strips done, I turn the wing over, and run a drop of CA along the underside.

I can do a biplane wing in about 20 minutes this way, including stripping the balsa.

Same as above. Make them slightly long, bend them to wedge them in place and then one pin holds them. Don't make them too "too long" or they'll dent the sheeting they butt up against which is noticeable under the covering unless you use a filler.