I only get one chance to do this right and I've never done it before on an ARF. I have a CAP 232 120 and have to apply the huge BREITLING decals along the sides as well as a cool graphic all along the both sides of the fuse.

Any tips would be appreciated.

Joe

How I usually apply decals is:

If they are water slide type, trim the decal, then put in water until the decal is loose on the backing (usually about 1 minute in the water), spray the area it is to be applied to with blue windex and slide the decal in place. When satisfied with the position, squeege out the excess liquid WORKING FROM THE CENTER OUT and let dry for 24 hours. Then clear coat the decal.

Self stick decals is basically the same. Trim the decal, LIBRALLY wet the area with blue windex, CAREFULLY peel the decal and float it in position on the windex. Use plenty of windex as needed, and until you start squeege the excess out you can move/remove it. If for some reason you have a problem, peel the decal off and start all over. The key with the self stick is to use plenty of windex. Windex will activate the adhesive and actually lets the decal slide.

It also works well when applying MonoKote trim, however, with monokote you should seal the edges with a low/medium temp iron. DO NOT USE THE IRON ON DECALS.

Campy's way is the way to go. It works great. However, Windex is not the only option... you can also use a cup of water with a few drops of dish soap. Works just as well.

I have never used the Windex but I do use lukewarm water with a few drops of liquid dish soap. On a large area like you are talking about use a pump sprayer. If the decal is vinyl with a peel off backing, peel back just a couple inches of the paper and fold it back. With the model sprayed wet, position your decal and 'test' the alignment. If satisfied srat removing the papaer and laying the sticker down and smoothing as you go. If you make a blooper you only have to pull up a little bit because the rest is still attached to the paper. Once you have the entire sticker in place, if you wetted the surface well enough you can still slide the sticker around. When you are satisfied of the positioning start blotting it from the center out with paper towels. If your decal has to go around any compound curves, use your heat gun on low or a hair dryer and warm up the decal and it will fit around the compound curve more easily.

Once it is in place, squeegeed dry, let it stand untouched for at least 24 hours.

Can I put them on after I fly it a few times? I wanted to do the maiden tomorrow and if I have to let it dry for 24 hours, I won't be able to. So the question is will the plane clean up with alcohol after it's flown? Or will there be permanent gunk on it from the fuel lube that won't come off?

Hmmm.....that's a tough one. The surface needs to be clean and free of any other chemicals to make the adhesive work properly. But I would take a wager that if you did a thorough cleaning with solution of soapy liquid dish detergent and water that you would be ok.

Good luck with the maiden!

If there is fuel residue or other material on the film it can be cleaned with "Prepsol" (used in the automotive trade before painting) or acetone. Make certain you use a lint free rag to apply.

The dish washing liquid in water or the windex work really well to allow the decal, trim tape, monocote, etc to be slid into position. Make sure you remove any air bubbles.

Once dry you may like to seal the decal edges with thin CA, this way the decal wont lift at the edges after a year or two.

Good Luck,

Colin

Hey guys, I hope you don't mind if I commit a minor threadjack, but maybe it's OK because the question has been answered so well.

I'm hoping to print my own decals using Avery/equiv. clear sheets (pictures of my kids to use as pilot/passengers in my LT-40 ARF). Can I do this in this application? Do I need to seal them?

Thanks,
Jeff

Yes, the Avery sheets will work. If you print out on the clear you will need a very light background. Might be better to print out on the white sheets and trim closely.

You must definitely seal them. I use either Krylon or Rustoleum clear on non fuel applications and Lustrekote clear on a fuel application.

Here are pics of a boat I did the decals for using Avery label sheets and cleared them with Rustoleum:

Thanks! I'm assuming Lustrekote is something I can pick up at the LHS...

-Jeff

Lustrekote is a Top Flite product so yes, any decent lhs should carry it!