Homemade decals?
#1
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From: Kaysville,
UT
I was wondering if anyone out there has used the wet transfer decal paper to make decals for a RC aircraft? If so, how did it turn out? I am trying to get a nose art decal for my 1/6 scale mustang and am having troubles finding some pressure sensitive vinyl or mylar paper that you can print on. I can get some wet transfer paper that will go through an inkjet printer but I am a little leary about the quaility of the image. If anyone has experience with the wet transfer paper I would like to hear about it. Or if someone knows where I can get some pressure sensitive decal paper that can be run through an inkjet or a color laser printer that would be great too. Just for note, I plan to clearcoat all decals after application. Thanks
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From: New York Mills, Minn
I have used Avery Full Sheet Labels quite often. You can buy these at OfficeMax or anywhere that sells office supplies. They are full sheet pressure sensitve, and come in white or clear. The clear is usually twice as much as the white, but they are thinner and IMO they are worth it. They work great in an inkjet printer--run them through just like regular paper...
.
I don't know about clear-coating them though, I haven't tried that.
.I don't know about clear-coating them though, I haven't tried that.
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From: Tulsa,
OK
gerns:
I have been making decals using both water slide paper and "sticky back" transparency film for 3 years. Both work well but I am using an ALPS Dry Tape transfer printer (which uses laser jet qualified paper).
Ink Jet and Laser water-slide decal material is available from MicroMark.
A company called Rayven, Inc. makes the stick back (Ink Jet and Laser) and what you want for laser is Rayven Type 420 Reprofilm. It is an applique film. I don't know the Type number for Ink Jet but you can go to the following link and they will have it (they also have a "sample" kit I believe and so does Micromark):
www.artproducts.com/gsdirect/reprofilm.htm
If you are going to use ink jet, then you will need the ink jet product. From what I have read, if you use ink jet you will need to use a "fixitive" spray to set the ink. This is not needed with laser or, in my case, Alps dry ink transfer printing system.
Neither will be fuel proof however. I spray my decals with Lusterkote gloss or flat (whichever finish I want). Haven't had a problem in 3 years doing this.
Good luck.
I forgot. The local price in Tulsa for the sticky back is $1.13 a sheet. $1.09 for a half-box (25) and $1.00 for a full box (50). I get mine at a local drafting and art supply store. The "big box" stores like Staples, Office Depot, etc. don't handle it and really don't know what you are talking about (at least here in Tulsa).
Dan
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I have been making decals using both water slide paper and "sticky back" transparency film for 3 years. Both work well but I am using an ALPS Dry Tape transfer printer (which uses laser jet qualified paper).
Ink Jet and Laser water-slide decal material is available from MicroMark.
A company called Rayven, Inc. makes the stick back (Ink Jet and Laser) and what you want for laser is Rayven Type 420 Reprofilm. It is an applique film. I don't know the Type number for Ink Jet but you can go to the following link and they will have it (they also have a "sample" kit I believe and so does Micromark):
www.artproducts.com/gsdirect/reprofilm.htm
If you are going to use ink jet, then you will need the ink jet product. From what I have read, if you use ink jet you will need to use a "fixitive" spray to set the ink. This is not needed with laser or, in my case, Alps dry ink transfer printing system.
Neither will be fuel proof however. I spray my decals with Lusterkote gloss or flat (whichever finish I want). Haven't had a problem in 3 years doing this.
Good luck.
I forgot. The local price in Tulsa for the sticky back is $1.13 a sheet. $1.09 for a half-box (25) and $1.00 for a full box (50). I get mine at a local drafting and art supply store. The "big box" stores like Staples, Office Depot, etc. don't handle it and really don't know what you are talking about (at least here in Tulsa).
Dan
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#4
Go down to any of the office supply stores like Office Max and look in the "specialty papers" section for a kind of ink jet printer paper called "Body Tattoo" paper. I know it sounds slightly nuts but read on.
This paper is used to allow you to make kid's fake "tattoos" with your Ink Jet Printer. If you follow the directions in the package you'll end up with a decal with the ink on the sticky side of the thin clear plastic (or vinyl, not sure which) carrier. You simply cut out the graphic you printed, rub it onto the surface of the plane and voila, you have a nice looking decal covered with a very thin plastic sheet. It seems pretty fuel proof but just to be on the safe side I seal the edges of the plastic with thinned clear poly.
This paper is used to allow you to make kid's fake "tattoos" with your Ink Jet Printer. If you follow the directions in the package you'll end up with a decal with the ink on the sticky side of the thin clear plastic (or vinyl, not sure which) carrier. You simply cut out the graphic you printed, rub it onto the surface of the plane and voila, you have a nice looking decal covered with a very thin plastic sheet. It seems pretty fuel proof but just to be on the safe side I seal the edges of the plastic with thinned clear poly.
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From: Kaysville,
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Thanks guys for all the input on the subject. I have checked out the full sheet clear labels but they are not clear, more of a milky clear. For most of my applications this wouldn't be a big problem but this is going on a scale P51 that has been maticulously covered with Flite-metal alluminum. I really need something that is very clear. It should be painted on but I am not an artist by any means and would do the plane an injustice by even trying to paint it. I am going to try the wet transfer paper through a color laser printer tonight. I tried it through my inkjet but have less than satisfactory results. Anyone else know of something that is absolutely clear that can be printed on? Thanks again.
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From: Glen Robertson, ON, CANADA
Originally posted by mefly2
I have used Avery Full Sheet Labels quite often. You can buy these at OfficeMax or anywhere that sells office supplies. They are full sheet pressure sensitve, and come in white or clear. The clear is usually twice as much as the white, but they are thinner and IMO they are worth it. They work great in an inkjet printer--run them through just like regular paper...
.
I don't know about clear-coating them though, I haven't tried that.
I have used Avery Full Sheet Labels quite often. You can buy these at OfficeMax or anywhere that sells office supplies. They are full sheet pressure sensitve, and come in white or clear. The clear is usually twice as much as the white, but they are thinner and IMO they are worth it. They work great in an inkjet printer--run them through just like regular paper...
.I don't know about clear-coating them though, I haven't tried that.
To add to this, I also use the transparent Avery label material, but to make it last, I print my metrial on a coated paper and then I go to Mail Box etc. and have them make a color photocopy on my laser transparent label material, this way it is fully protected.
Go to my web site, and click on Extra 330.
You might have to wait a bit, my domain registry is down for the moment but will be back soon.
#11

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I get all my decals made by a local sign shop....on my order I never put any deadline and get great price an timely service.... I do order in advance so planning is crucial since he does make more money out of a 4'x8' sign then a few decals for me.
He charge me by the foot either printed on a Edge machine or cut in one of his plotter, is cost me 1.50 more for printing, which mean multi colors.
Daniel D
He charge me by the foot either printed on a Edge machine or cut in one of his plotter, is cost me 1.50 more for printing, which mean multi colors.
Daniel D



