In my opinion, the Du-Bro 'Z' bender is the best, with the GP's version a close second.

Those "Z"-bend pliers are a waste of good money!

Just my $.02

Jerry

Solder clevises at the servo end, threaded clevises or ball links at the control surface end, except quick connectors at the business end of the throttle.

In tight quarters, such as a nose wheel control buried inside a cowling with a horn that ends up very close to a fire wall, I have tapped a quick connector to accept a threaded rod. Allows you to adjust the length of the control rod from the servo end and eliminate a conflict between a clevis and the firewall.

Z-bends do OK until you learn how to solder. Once you know how to solder, you probably won't be interested in using z-bends any more. A properly made solder joint is close to indestructable

Instead of a "Z" bend, I put an "L" bend in the wire and then use Goldberg snapper keepers.

Good thing I bought lots of them now that Goldberg is gone...you can probably still find some in your local hobby shop.

Don

Are these "ez links" reliable ? Has anyone found any problems with them ? Seems like GP and Dubro supplies them only for 2-56 rods. Wonder if there is a 4-40 version available ?..............

Interesting thread. I myself am wondering what kind of servo-to-pushrod connection I should use on a UCD. The kit came with 2-56 rods and instructs me to use an L-bend and apply a plastic snap lock. I definately do not like this method especially for elevator and ailerons. I thought about z-bends, but I don't really like the fact that it has "high-slop" potential.

I've never used ball-links, but I'm kind of leaning in that direction. They have good adjustability and no friction with the servo arm. They also can keep the pushrod from binding if things aren't perfectly aligned. But I look at them and I wonder how good is the connection between the ball and the actual cap? Has anyone ever had one of these things pop off in flight I guess it's a mental thing for me to get over (just like the thought of using nylon wing bolts).

I am using the black screw-on Dubro clevises with the little brass snap retainer on the horn end. I've had good luck with these in the past.

Use the "L" bend and 1/16" ID wheel collars guys. Drill out with a 5/64 bit if necessary to fit the wire. Never a failure in 25 years. If these little steel collars will hold your tail wheels on, they will sure hold a push rod in place against a servo arm.

Happy New Year to All RC'rs!

Clair Sieverling
AMA 15654

I too have always used EZ connectors (listed above/hex/brass). My father-in-law put my first plane together this way. All that to say I have used EZ connectors for no good reason other than I didn't know any better. I can report after 2 years of flying profiles with throws in the 50 degree range (this inludes full throttle snaps, climbing flat spins and waterfalls) I have yet to have a failer (makes me nervous to say that). I fly them as hard as I can and have had success. I do add a drop of CA to locking screw.

Nothin is better than ball links. I've used them in boats and airplanes for years and never had one come off. Usually you end up bending the rod before you pop them off. Best way bar none and you still have lots of adjustment.

I second the ball links!!!!!

I have used Sullivan Golden clevis connectors on both ends of my push rods for many years now. The ones at the servo I drill the threads out & solder on with Sta-Brite solder .Then you are able to use the little safety clip with the clevis. On the control surface end use the threaded rod but first screw on a hex nut either 2-56 or 4-40 depends on rod size. When you get your surface adjustments made with the clevis , screw the nut down & tighten it against clevis ,this stops wear from vibration. Again use the little keeper. I think now Sullivan may be making this clevis as a solder on, think I saw it some where. This is the best setup I have found.>>>>>>>>>big max 1935

This is a big bump to the top.

Does any know of another source for ez connectors besides great planes and dubro. It seems like I am always in need of them so I buy the dubro 12 pack but they just seem like they are way over priced. At tower you can get a 12 pack for 15 dollars. How are these things worth more than a dollar a peice?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJGT7&P=7

The only thing I'll use those ez connectors on is throttle and I hate them even then.

Z bends are great for not coming loose but do have slop. Fine for trainers and such.

Ball links are not something I'd ever use on a control surface. I've done so before and had wear issues right from the start.

There are many ball socket types out there and some are good and others not so much.

Steel Pin Clevis is what I prefer in most cases. Tetra Clevis are the best.

There are some very good linkages from Central Hobbies that I love but they're pretty expensive.

The dual Axis rod end is great.
http://www.centralhobbies.com/contro...age/link00.htm

[quote]ORIGINAL: davidgeorge212


Does any know of another source for ez connectors besides great planes and dubro. It seems like I am always in need of them so I buy the dubro 12 pack but they just seem like they are way over priced. At tower you can get a 12 pack for 15 dollars. How are these things worth more than a dollar a peice?

EZ connectors are great - IF you know how to use them and are good at pre-flighting your planes. I've never had one come lose - but I've seen many that have.

.

Did anyone ever make a tool to bend Z's in heavier wire? like 4/40 ?

Except on the few kit reviews I have done for RC Report where I used most of the stock hardware. The rest of the time since the middle 1970s, when they came out, I have been using the quick connectors for everything, even on 3D and fun fly planes. I have yet to have one fail.

I like these by Great Planes. They are square so that a pliers can grip for tightening. Also, Tower has them for 12 for $9.49


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK099&P=ML



Frank

I use these as well. They are a little better value than $16 for 12 of the other kind.