Ok I have a Hanger 9 P-40 Warhawk. I believe it is covered with ultracoat. It has a very glossy finish. I would like a flatter finish. Someone suggested a product called Lustercoat in a clear mat spray. Unfortunately I am not able to find this product or any thing like it that is fuel proof. I am planning to use the Keleo exhaust so fuel proof is important.

I also would like to apply some panel lines. What is the best way to apply them, and how do I determine where they should go.

Paint does not stick well to covering films and to my knowledge there are no inks that will stand up to fuel residue without clearcoating.

Actually. paint does stick to mylar films just great. But first you have to scuff the film with a scotch brite pad or maybe some 600. The problem is:..........when the film sags, and sooner or later it will, you can't put an iron on it.

If you only paint small areas, then generally you can iron arond the painted portions and remove the sag. I have even placed a T-shirt over the painted areas and quickly run an iron over them. It did leave a little lint.

IF you draw panel lines on the film, and then try to shoot Lusterkote over them, often the Lusterkote's solvent will cause the lines to blurr and run.

So you are asking the same question that many of us are asking. How do you get good panel lines to stay on film.

As for a mat finish, well Monokote is making camo colors with a flat finish now. They look pretty good. You might be able to achieve a reasonable finish by simply scuffing up the existing covering with a scotch brite pad or similar.

Here is an Ercoupe covered with Monokote. The panel lines are really just areas that haven't been scuffed. The rivets were ironed on using a soldering iron and brass tubing. The pic is bad, but silver is difficult to photograph.

My WM GS Zero has the original Ultracote. Panel lines were applied with black and silver Sharpie pen. Weathering with black carbon pencil and flattened with Nelsons water based urethane, which is good for up to 15% nitro. Other pictures in my gallery. As pilotfighter says, be sure you remove all wrinkles and tighten covering with heat gun before you start! Paul

Sweet looking Zero.

Beautiful Zero!!

Can you go into detail on how you simulated the pealing paint and weathering.

Also you say you are using silver and black sharpies. Would you be kind enough to share your technique with us?

Thanks for the comments. First I drew the thin panel lines and rivets with a fine tipped Sharpie marker. Get a black carbon pencil and scrape with a blade to get black carbon powder. Rub all the lines with finger dabbed in the powder to enhance panel lines. Use silver Sharpie at panel corners and rub silver with carbon to give oxidized aluminum and paint peel look. Same technique used on weathering and runoff effect. This plane is coated with Minwax satin urethane from a spray can but, Nelsons Hobby Products makes a good nitroproof flat clear for glow fueled planes that works well also. Took about 20 - 30 hours to weather it (top and bottom) but was a lot of fun and really worth the effort. It no longer looks like a toy and often mistaken for a Yellow, Ziroli, or Platt. Ha! Paul

Thanks
I think I will have to do a little practicing.

I have some graphite powder I use to lubricate cartridge necks when I reload. Do you think this would work?

Just wondering where the photo was taken. Dos it happen to be War Birds Over The Rockies. I am planning to attend this summer.

I painted my TF P-47 with silver ultra-cote and painted claer coated with 21st century about 7 years ago and it's been fine. I have even removed bubbles/sags from time to time with the heatgun with no problems to the paint. Scuff with #0000 steel wool , or if you are using water based paint use synthetic wool.

Ok I started putting on the panel lines and the distressed paint simulation.

One problem that I am having is getting the shading along the lines. I live in a small town with out an art supply store and know one hear seals a carbon pensile. I have tried both graphite and lead pensile shavings with no success. Also I have tried graphite. Nun seams to make a mark on the ultracoat.

Dos any one have any ideas?

Here are more photos of my hanger 9 P40 detailing project. Things still look a little cartoonish. I plan on spraying with Top flight flat clear Lusterkote. Dos any one have any suggestions?

Hi there,

I am sorry to say that your assesment is correct regarding being "cartoonish".... Here is how you can achieve a much better appearance for your warbird.

1. Remove all the weatherings you have applied using rag soaked with thinner.
2. Use steelwool grade 00 (I think 000 is way too fine) and rub all over until you have a scratched appearance on UC.
3. Wipe clean with a lint rag.
4. Use FLAT clear Lustercote ( but first let the can stand in warm water for 5 minutes).
5. Spray for 3 seconds, stop to clean the nozzle and shake. Then do it again until the whole A/C is painted.
6. Let it dry for couple hours, then use a black Sharpie (use the fine tip) to draw in the panel lines.
7. Mix some silver paint with black to tome down the brightness and apply along leading adges and panel lines to simulate paint chips.
8. Apply another thin layer of LC to seal the weathereing.

Good luck... You can find the art of weathering on plastic modelling section on the Net. DP

More...

The reason of sprayong flat clear first is that you can draw panel lines much easier (and the ink sticks too) on FLAT ot MATT surface. If you make a mistake, use thinner to wipe away the mistake. LC is not enamel based so the thinner won't affect it. Drawing lines on gloss UC is asking for frustration... DP

I didn’t think about scuffing the UC before I started drawing the panel lines? I guess I will have to start over. Thanks for the advice I would have been upset when the Luster Kote pealed