your flight box
#76
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Originally posted by david a
I stained my flight-box then put three coats of polyurethane clear gloss inside and out including the drawers. Don't overlook doing the bottom as well, to protect it from damp grass.
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I stained my flight-box then put three coats of polyurethane clear gloss inside and out including the drawers. Don't overlook doing the bottom as well, to protect it from damp grass.
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Thats just what I did .
A total of three coats and inside the drawers I put it on thick.
Also did the bottom and edges.
I guess you can say the whole tote box is Encapsulated in polyurethane.
I did have some minor runs with the first coat but I let it sit for three days and the polyurethane just got sucked into the wood.
The third coat went on thick and took 6 days to dry rock hard.
Looks nice for something I trashed then decided to give it a shot
#77
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From: montgomery, alabama
Polyurethane will run if put on too thick, but you can usually sand it out. It does a good job of protecting the project and it looks good too.
I let mine dry about four hours between coats and I would sand the box between coats with 220 grit sandpaper. After the last coat I hit it lightly with 220 and followed with steel wool.
I can't say for certain how polyurethane holds up against glow fuel as I haven't checked it. Whenever I get a little fuel on the finish I generally clean it up right away rather than let it sit there. So far I haven't had a problem.
I let mine dry about four hours between coats and I would sand the box between coats with 220 grit sandpaper. After the last coat I hit it lightly with 220 and followed with steel wool.
I can't say for certain how polyurethane holds up against glow fuel as I haven't checked it. Whenever I get a little fuel on the finish I generally clean it up right away rather than let it sit there. So far I haven't had a problem.
#79
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Originally posted by david a
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I used the thicker polyurethane and the 1st coat took close to 24 hours to dry.
Well anyway I have 3 coats on it and it's a nice looking tote box.
The pre built box from TH doesn't even have the drawer dividers glued on the bottom and nothing INSIDE the box is coated for protection.
Trying to use it as it comes will not last a season so I used elemers glue every place I could.
Now it's ready for the inside coating
#80
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From: montgomery, alabama
I used the minwax clear gloss polyurethane in the quart size can, which has to be brushed on. I covered the entire box inside and out. Bare wood and moisture will find each other eventually from which nothing good can come.
I built my box with some material I had left over from another project, so all I have in it is a little time. I had it built, stained and the first coat of urethane on it within two hours of starting. Once I decided on a design and had all the measurements worked out, the construction of it went fast. I decided to go with a design that was simple and functional rather than spectacular.
Keep it simple.
I built my box with some material I had left over from another project, so all I have in it is a little time. I had it built, stained and the first coat of urethane on it within two hours of starting. Once I decided on a design and had all the measurements worked out, the construction of it went fast. I decided to go with a design that was simple and functional rather than spectacular.
Keep it simple.
#82
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From: Edwards AFB, CA
#83
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Originally posted by srasmack
has anyone taken the box yet whirley bird. If not let me know. [email protected]
Thanks
has anyone taken the box yet whirley bird. If not let me know. [email protected]
Thanks
Went out a few day ago.
#84

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From: Rome,
NY
This flight box was designed when both my boys were flying so theres room for 3 transmiters and a 4th area for paper towels and accessories. The flight box has 3 drawers, the middle drawer is part of a removable section wich houses the power panel, battery, 1 gallon of fuel, fuel pump,starter, glo starter this removable section can be next to the plane for fueling, starting, ect. The black panel on the cover houses the props.The construction is 1/2 " oak plywood with brass hardware. It measures 12"wide x 25" long x 12.5" high.The areas where the transmitters go are covered with a rubber like 1/8" sheet so the tx will stay put. Here are some pics
#88

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From: Midlothian,
VA
Can't resist not to post anymore. Here is my flight box. Have built a new one since then. Made from a $14.95 Rubbermaid step stool. I used surplus drawers and materials from work. The battery is hidden and bolted under the floor of the compartment with an aluminum bracket. Nice thing about it is I always have a place to park my @$$ when at the field.
#91
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From: Greensboro, NC
Nice box caf. Whirleybird, have you been able to locate the box I have at Wal-Mart? I think we are definately onto something here with the plastic boxes
I may have a 20 year wood box guy converted very soon. Mine is undergoing some minor alterations now, to hold some tools up top in a secure bin that are too odd shaped for the small bins (needle nose pliers, cutters, etc). I am also looking at putting a gel cell directly on my starter, with a pair of banana plugs to fuel from. Since my fuel pump is on my jug, I could take just the fuel jug and starter out to the flightline, and leave my box in the truck. Talk about a lightweight option.hehehe. I guess its 6 in one hand, half a dozen in the other.
Steve
I may have a 20 year wood box guy converted very soon. Mine is undergoing some minor alterations now, to hold some tools up top in a secure bin that are too odd shaped for the small bins (needle nose pliers, cutters, etc). I am also looking at putting a gel cell directly on my starter, with a pair of banana plugs to fuel from. Since my fuel pump is on my jug, I could take just the fuel jug and starter out to the flightline, and leave my box in the truck. Talk about a lightweight option.hehehe. I guess its 6 in one hand, half a dozen in the other. Steve
#95

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From: Midlothian,
VA
Last but not least the ultra top secret patentable underside showing bracket for battery, tray for fuel, and drawers. The duct tape is used only to hold the stackable drawers together on thier mounting lugs. They are also bolted to the bottom of the lower compartment. You do not need the drawers unless you are like me and never satisfied with the particular prop on your plane.
#96
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[i]
Steve [/B]
Steve [/B]
I also looked at some fishing boxes.
To be honest with you I haven't looked around to hard but tonight I picked up my large tackle box and it's LIGHT compared to the wooden boxes.
I didn't put mine on the scale yet but with the uprights off and the 3 coats of sealer I put on it i'm betting it will go to 15 pounds empty
Time to start looking at plastic.
Have to admit though the wood has that classy look to it but I like the light weight
#97
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[i]. [/B]
Just that the TX is exposed and may take an unexpected bruse when your carrying the box and perhaps ruin a day of flying.
Other then that it looks neat.
Looks like plastic is taking over.
If you have the luck I do the next size up box will be 4 times bigger then what you need.
It also looks like you did put some work into it.
I was really impressed with the number of people here still talking about tote boxes and showing what they have or built.
But the poll on the tote boxes was a flop.
Keep the pictures coming and share the ideas
#98

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From: Midlothian,
VA
Yea, I usually normally do not use the TX tray because I take several to the field anyway. Ideally the two small drawers could be replaced by a single large drawer for the TX. If you do not cart as much as me to the field, the TX will also fit in the lower compartment (it is big).
Overall, it is a nice size, fits in most trunks, easy to carry up the basement stairs and will not topple or slide around in the trunk.
Link to Rubbermaid step stool tool box.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...184296-2240728
Overall, it is a nice size, fits in most trunks, easy to carry up the basement stairs and will not topple or slide around in the trunk.
Link to Rubbermaid step stool tool box.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...184296-2240728
#99

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From: Bartlett,
TN
I ended up building my own... Mostly cause I had the wood and just wanted to do a project... I was in the shop building my son a desk... and had some material left over from making the drawers.... I'm thinking of building a smaller, flight light box that will hold a battery, starter, fuel and glow starter.
For more shots check out www.swanyshouse.com/fieldbox/fieldbox.html
For more shots check out www.swanyshouse.com/fieldbox/fieldbox.html
#100

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I know there have been other posts showing this box, but in case you haven't seen it, here is the one I got at Lpwe's and have seen at Home Depot for UNDER $20.00!! It is actually two boxes stacked on top of each other. it has wheels and the top box has a handle that flips up for pulling. I am still in the plannong stages of where everything will go, but I want to find a low-profile container that will hold a gallon of fuel to go in the very bottom of the bottom box, surrounded by TWO 12v 7.2 ah gel cels. all of this will be covered by the little "tool tray" fits in the bottom box. I will keep my starter in the tool tray. The top box will hold ALL of the other stuff (including the kitchen sink!) I will be using the Cermark LCD deluxe power panel (it has fuel pump controls, voltmeter, glow drive, portable glow driver charge port, 12v. outputs and is also a quick field charger! You can also plug the charger for the 12v gel cell into the 12v outputs to charge it!!) I can't wait to get all the goodies installed!!!!
Regards,
astrohog
Regards,
astrohog


