Removing Thin cyanoacrylate (CA)
#1
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From: Florence,
AL
Hey guys..
Could someone help me please. Or point me to the thread where this has been previously discussed.
I have this cool MUSTANG P-51 Looks really sharp! Well last night I was putting in a fuel dot and was just putting some CA on the nut on the inside of the model to lock it down. Well it ran through the whole and to the other side now my Painted Fiberglass Fuse has some drippabled CA streaks on the top portion of the fuse right above the fuel tank.. .GRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!
What is the BEST method to remove these CA Streaks and get back my one nice paint job?
Any suggestions would be grateful..
Thank you in advance!
Rex
Could someone help me please. Or point me to the thread where this has been previously discussed.
I have this cool MUSTANG P-51 Looks really sharp! Well last night I was putting in a fuel dot and was just putting some CA on the nut on the inside of the model to lock it down. Well it ran through the whole and to the other side now my Painted Fiberglass Fuse has some drippabled CA streaks on the top portion of the fuse right above the fuel tank.. .GRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!
What is the BEST method to remove these CA Streaks and get back my one nice paint job?
Any suggestions would be grateful..
Thank you in advance!
Rex
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From: Auburn,
WA
I have found that CA isn't good to use on metal. Especially anything you might want to take apart again. It tends to weaken the metal. What I have found to work really good on fuel dot threads is caulking. Just goop some around the threads and let it dry. Works great.
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From: Florence,
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Thanks Guys..
I tried the Acetone, and it did get some of it off. but it left a stain, So I scrubed harder..
I'm now going to buy some Glossy Black Paint and redo the paint job. Eh.. I tried..
Thanks for all your help.
Rex
I tried the Acetone, and it did get some of it off. but it left a stain, So I scrubed harder..
I'm now going to buy some Glossy Black Paint and redo the paint job. Eh.. I tried..
Thanks for all your help.
Rex
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From: Ocilla, GA
Will acetone used to debond CA weaken or harm the balsa?
Can I use acetone to separate a tail section from the fuselage that was put together with CA?
Can I use acetone to separate a tail section from the fuselage that was put together with CA?
#9
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From: Pekin, IL
I don't think just acetone will get your tailfeathers off. I know that loctite used to sell a 'debonder' that was 100% Nitromethane. Worked great, at least on circuit board type stuff.
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From: Pekin, IL
ok... it took a bit of looking, but I finally found it. Loctite 'makes' this stuff, actually, they just bottle it. It's 100% Nitromethane, and it does remove CA glue without too much trouble. But watch it, this stuff is like $25.00 a bottle, available at http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...rch&L1=Loctite
Hope this helps... By the way, this stuff actually works, as opposed to the 'debonders' out there in the hobby shops that for the most part are useless.
Hope this helps... By the way, this stuff actually works, as opposed to the 'debonders' out there in the hobby shops that for the most part are useless.
#12
Why pay $25 for a few ounces of nitromethane when I can pay $50 or less for a gallon? Try a search for VP fuels, do a yellow page search as well for a local distributer.
#13

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Just wanted to thank you guys for posting this info. Last week I almost had a heart attack when I spilled CA on the cowl of a P40 ARF. I tried acetone in an inconspicuous place and that DID eat through the finish. I wasn't about to sand it off and try to match the paint so it was well worth spending the $40 to get the little magic bottle I was desperate.
Grainger sent it quickly along with a MDS. Active ingredients are Nitromethane and Toluene.
Of course, I recommend testing on YOUR particular finish, but in my case it did NOT eat through the flat clear cote the ARF makers used on this model.
Look closely and you can see that the CA is removed cleanly where I applied it and there is only a trace of the line where it used to be. The bottle has a small brush which I used to dab some solvent onto the CA to soften it. It took about 3 applications, with wiping in between working in roughtly 2 inch areas at a time, but I did manage to get the entire foot long streak off my cowl. No more unsightly shiny line ruining my otherwise nice looking flying tiger!
Grainger sent it quickly along with a MDS. Active ingredients are Nitromethane and Toluene.
Of course, I recommend testing on YOUR particular finish, but in my case it did NOT eat through the flat clear cote the ARF makers used on this model.
Look closely and you can see that the CA is removed cleanly where I applied it and there is only a trace of the line where it used to be. The bottle has a small brush which I used to dab some solvent onto the CA to soften it. It took about 3 applications, with wiping in between working in roughtly 2 inch areas at a time, but I did manage to get the entire foot long streak off my cowl. No more unsightly shiny line ruining my otherwise nice looking flying tiger!




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