I have looked thru the posts about Solartex, but cannot find an answer to this question. I plan to cover my Aeromaster with Solartex. I plan a white base color with red and blue trim strips and checker board on bottom of wing. Can I cut out the red or blue trim strips from solartex and apply it over the white solartex as can be done with monokote (Iorn the strips on)? I know I could paint the red or blue strips on but believe I would prefer to apply solartex trim instead. Can I use the windex method as with monokote?
Thank you, Ralph White

The only problem I see with ironing the strips on is going to be the end appearance and additional weight. Solartex, while noticeably lighter than Coverite, is still a fabric, and thus heavy. Also, since it is a fabric, the strips, especially if you do the checkerboard with strips and especially the overlaps, are going to quite noticeable.

Unfortunately, the Windex method only works with Monokote. The adhesive in Monokote is different than the other coverings.


To make cleaning easier, and minimize/prevent staining, Solartex really needs a clear coat. I would suggest painting the trim and checkerboard with latex paint, apply all your decals, etc, then clear coat the plane.

Thanks Campy. That's what I will do.
Ralph White, Neoga, IL

In addition to what Campy mentioned, the Solartex pigment also tends to smear when hot. You'll have red and blue mudges all over that white layer. I'm doing my Aeromaster in white Solartex also. I plan to paint red and black stripes. I'm using automotive duplicolor rattle cans including their clear for the final topcoat.

(EDIT: I have now discovered that Duplicolor Rattle can Clear is NOT totally resistant to glow fuel and am planning to use DuPont Chromaclear, a 2 part urethane product for my plane. It requires a respirator. Sorry for the misinformation.)

I assume the Duplicolor clear is fuel proof. I haven't decided what paint to use or what top coat of clear to use. I am leaning toward Krylon paint as I have used it a lot on other non-model projects.
Ralph White, Neoga, IL

Ralph,

I used Rustoleum and it was the friendliest paint I have ever used. Good cover, no runs. This Super Decathlon is covered in white Solartex and painted with rattle can Rustoleum. Certainly fuel proof with gas and I understand it is also with glow fuel.

Have fun!

Bedford

Same here. Rustoluem. I covered my P90 in all white then painted the color scheme on with spray can rustoleum. I had black/white 3" checker board on the bottom with red, yellow, and blue star burst on the fuse and top side. The nice thing about solartex and rustoleum is that you can reshrink it if it wrinkles. Just place some cloth like white cotton t-shirt over the wrinkle then iron it out. But dont move the cloth, it needs to stay fixed. Rustoleum stays plyable for a long time. Have also used it on ultracoat. But dont use it around a friction point like cowl to fuse. It will rub the paint off.
Edwin

If using Rustoleum with glow fuel, you need to leave it cure at least 4 weeks or more before it becomes fuel proof. It takes a long time to fully cure. With gasoline, it is relatively fuel proof in a week or less.

Thanks for the info everyone. If I were to use rustoleum for the trim paint, what clear coat would you suggest for glow fuel?
Ralph White

Several scale guys I know use a final coat of polyurethane. As with any finish test the system you plan to use on a piece of solartex covered scrap balsa first. I discovered that I can achieve a much sharper masked line by first shooting some clear BEFORE the color coat to seal the tape edges and prevent undermining into the fabric weave. My original plan was to final spray my plane with Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane but the white on my test sample turned beige! I guess there is some tint in the stuff for enhancing the look of wood? Disaster averted.... I like the Duplicolor because it dries fast, remains flexible and comes in some really beautiful colors. Check the touch-up section of your neighborhood auto parts store.

What type of clear polyurethane is best on top of Solartex? Water or oil based? Spray can or brush on?

Oil Base polyurethane WILL yellow in about 6 - 7 months. Waterbase polyurethane does not yellow, HOWEVER it is only fuel RESISTANT WITH THE FOLLOWING CAVEATS:

1. Let the clearcoat dry for a MINIMUM of 7 days before exposing to glow fuel.

2. Do not let the residue remain on the surface for longer than 4 hours. After 4 hours the surface begins to soften.

MOST ACRYLIC clears are fuel proof. I suggest doing the following: 1. Use an ACRYLIC clear ENAMEL for a clearcoat. Enamel can safely be used over lacquer, but not the other way around. 2. Before commiting your plane, do a test panel and perform AT LEAST these tests - raw fuel test and exhaust residue test. Raw fuel - exactly what it says. Pour some raw fuel on the clear coat and come back in several hours. Exhaust residue - put the test panel in the exhaust stream of a running engine for about 5 - 10 minutes. Come back in a couple of hours. You will know if the clearcoat is good or not.

I would also add a 3rd test - leave your test panel out side for about 3 weeks to find out if it is going to yellow.

Thanks for the help Campy

I have an old wing from a trainer that i am using for a test area. I tried the oil based poly on it with a brush and it was uneven..

should have used a can.

Balsa USA said to go with the oil based. My plane uses orange and black Solartex so maybe the yellowing will not show up. I am going to look into your alternative choices at my LHS

The yellowing from the oil base polyurethane should not effect those colors, however, after several months the covering will have an "antique" appearance to it.

Decided to go with Lustercote Flat Clearover the top of the Solartex.

Looks good so far..

Fritzdecat, I'm leaning toward using Lustercote clear over Rustoleum trim colors on the Solartex covering. Are you happy with the results on your plane? I'm a little worried about rustoleum clear being fuel proof. I've had internet connection problems the last week (may still have them) and haven't been able to get back to you. How about a few pictures?
Ralph White

Completed my plane today and ran the engine. The oil residue wiped off fine , so far so good with the lustercote. It went on OK but not as even as an airbrush. Was maybe a little cloudy but that is hard to tell with the plane finished. Used two coats and it looks good. Flat Clear so no shine which is what I wanted with the solatex. Cannot praise the solartex enough. Went on like a dream.

Looks great !! I may look into using an airbrush to apply the clear. I assume Lusterkote is available in cans so I can use an airbrush. Thanks for the picture. I'll post some pictures when I get my Aeromaster ready to cover. I'm getting real close to that. Mainly have to do the final sanding.
Ralph White

Fritzdecat, How do you post a picture here? I see the image button at the top, but not sure how to fill in between the 2 image words.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Ralph White

When I post a picture I usally take one from my FlikR account. I use the url of the photo then when I click the image button

you put it between the html code brackets.


You can use tiny pic http://tinypic.com/


I am sure there are other ways

Thanks fritzdecat. I think I'll try loading the photo to my RCU photo gallery and then use the url from there.
Ralph White