Hey. I just picked up a .90 sized ducted fan F-104 (about 6 feet long) that I plan on making electric. My question: What are some good ways to simulate polished aluminum? I have worked with Flite Metal before, but on a much smaller scale (HET F-104) and it took ages to cut all those panels. Depending on what scheme I pick, there can be a little polished aluminum (orange target drone scheme) or a lot (full polished USAF scheme). I heard that BVM had some paint that looks really nice, but I get the feeling that this option will be too cost intensive for me and this old kit. I've also seen chrome trim sheet jobs that look pretty darn good. Any suggstions?

You really have to keep the weight down if you are going to use electric in an old DF. They turned out heavy if you did not watch when building them in the day. You have to remember that you will be adding a few Kg's in batteries when you are ready to fly. I used 12 cells in a Byron F16 and that was 1.5Kgs (3 pound) batteries. The lighter you can keep the model the better the flights will be. If you are worried about the cost of paint (BVM or other) you are going to run into problems with the electrics as they can't really be done on the cheep. As for crome or alloy finish check out some of the new paint types from the auto industry. You may have to see a coustom paint shop to see if they can mix the colour you need. My nephew is into airbrushing and he has a crome paint that he uses in that work, as I live on the other side of the lake to you, you will have to check out what is advailable over there.

Cheers

Hi Sessholvlaru, if you want something that looks polished then i would use the stuff made by coverite. It's called coverite presto metalic chrome. Tower hobbies sells it.

Hi I just painted a large P-51 mustang with Alsa Killer Chrome spray cans. It works great and gives a very nice finish. Basically you use gloss black for you undercoat and spray a very light dusting of killer chrome over that. I chose to steel wool the different panels at all directions to simulate a certain finish but this product would be worth checking out.

That does look pretty sweet trent. How much is a can of the stuff? And where did you buy it? Thanks.

I payed about $60- Australian dollars per can. Type in alsa paints into your search engine and you should find it. I think it is a product of USA. Cheers

Hi Trent.  Nice work. 
Did you use their topcoat?  I am wondering if it is glow proof.  Have you tested that yet? 
I am amazed at your panel lines and dzus fasteners.  Wish I had your abilities. 

Hi steven, I did use there clear top coat which I assume is fuel proof....I hope. As for the scale detail I cant take credit for the mentioned details as this was all moulded into the fuz when I got it from Composite ARF, thanks for the compliments anyway. Cheers

SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET !!!!

Hi!
One way of doing it is using chrome Oracover, wet sanded with 1200 paper on a sheet of glass.

Trent, I have always said I will never buy an ARF. I love to build. But The 51 is an ARF??? I may have to change my mind. Who makes it?

Jaka, what is Oracover? Is it a film like Monokote? Iprefer to cover my models with fabric and paint them, but your model looks so good Iwould be interested in trying your technique.

Hi!
Oracover is Ultracote in the US ...Oracover in the rest of the world...made in Berlin, Germany.

JAKA, you put those panel lines on there using a plastic film covering???  I did not know you could do that.  I am very impressed.  I am also sure that your technique is one that you aquired over many builds and is not something that you could explain here with ease.  But if I am wrong, please feel free to explain how you did that.  Once again, an absolutly fantastic job.

Steve, I'm not trying to say this is true or not but it appears that JAKA did that by making each panel individuallyand rub them in different directions to get that effect. Jaka correct me if i'm wrong, i have done that with a product from coverite before.

Trent;

I am also Building a Large Scale P-51, at first I was going to Paint it with Behr Latex Aluminum; but after seeing your Mustang I like the results you got with that stuff from ALSA; I went to their Web Site, it sells here in the US; but I noticed not only the Killer Chrome Stuff that I presumed you use, but they offer a less shiny Chrome Product called Ghost Chrome; I am also presuming that the finish yopu got with the Killer Chrome was more shiny before you used the steel wool? I would think that the Ghost Chrome stuff gives the finish you have but without having to use Steel Wool, although using the steel wool gives the panels a more directional look, used, etc. Any comments would be appreciated.

Another question, the Black over the top surface of the Engine Cowl, in front of the canopy, is that sprayed on top of the Chrome Paint or before and masked off?

One more question; the Stars and Bars, decal or paint, and if painted, were they painted on top of the Chrome?

The Glossy Black Base Coat; did you use the one from ALSA?

And finally(sorry for all the questions) did you or will you be using a Top Coat, ALSA as well?

Thanks a bunch, Doug.

Hi Steven, the model is from Composite ARF but there is still lots to do. All the parts are glass with scale details moulded in. It is a good and very enjoyable build and I think they have re-done the kit to refine a few things. I have a 102inch Spitfire in a box to start when the P-51 is done which is also from Comp ARF.Cheers Trent. Doug I responded to your P.M so I wont repeat it again here but I hope it helps.

Hi!
...It's not panel lines! It's panels!
The fuselage is covered with many (must be hundreds) pieces of Oracover, first wet sanded on a piece of glass, then put on with a covering iron. The upper side of the wing is also covered with several pieces of Oracover chrome. Every piece of film is wet sanded in different directions to obtain a well worn finish.
The engine nacelles and some other difficult-to-cover-areas are covered with aluminum duct tape, also wet sanded prior to being put into place.