I have always primed my fiberglass with spray on cans (acrylic laquer filler type primer from autozone). But I noticed today they have a CAN of primer by the same dupli-color that is pre-mixed. It does not say anything about being a filler primer, but man could I put it on easier with my paint gun, rather than use a bunch of spray cans.
Has anyone tried this?

You're talking about the "Paint Shop" systems right? Has a picture of a Camaro on the label.
If memory serves me it's a lacquer based system. So you would have to be a little careful if you plan on applying an enamel top coat on it, as enamels don't have the bite they used to. They tend to float on top of the undercoat instead of melting into it. No real biggie if you let the primer dry/cure FULLY, before applying the enamel top coat.


Ok even though it's pre mixed, let's not forget you also will need mixing sticks and strainers, usually free at paint stores, not sure about places like Auto Zone, PepBoys, etc.

Also you will need lacquer thinner to clean out your gun, normally sold in 1 gallon containers. And don't forget some type of pre cleaner you will need to wipe down the surface with.
Enamels tend to be a lot more impervious to stuff on the surface, lacquer not so.

Any primer can be a high build. Just a matter of adjusting your gun's spray pattern to build up the surface, or use multiple coats.

AND A MUST WILL BE A CORRECT RESPIRATOR! Please read the MSDS on the primer.

And spraying from a gun, even an HVLP system is going to make a lot of over spray. Lot's more then a rattle can does. So you'll need to enclose your "spray booth" area.

And some type of ventilation for the area, otherwise the wife's going to kill you from the fumes. And on that topic, dependent on your neighbors, they may not be too happy if the over spray get vented outside and onto something they own.

Not trying to dissuade you, but there's a little more involved then just buying the paint.

Can it be done? Sure. I do it all the time. But I have great neighbors, and my wife somewhat puts up with it. And I've been in the business for roughly 35 years, so I have the correct safety equipment to do it with little mess or hazard to me.


p.s. one last thing. Disposal of your left overs. Please don't toss the left over paint and such in the trash. It needs to be disposed of properly, as it is considered a Hazardous Material.

Thanks for the input. I do need to get a respirator. I have always painted outside away from any houses in the past with my gun. I do like laquer better as the base coat because I can put anything on top of it. I usually put laquer primer, enamel paint, then krylon for any black/white markings or aluminum and both black gloss and black flat for weathering.
It is good to know that I can build up that primer. Even if I have to use 3 or 4 coats. I usually sand it down almost to the glass then one final coat, but like I said, I always have used the spray can build up primer.

Thanks for taking the time to respond to my thread,
Patrick

Rattle cans are convenient and certainly have their place. However one of the drawbacks is the amount of solids that can be put through the aerosol tip which is usually around 15-17% which means it takes a good number of coats to get any kind of build. Using a spray gun you can get more build in less coats because the coating is generally not thinned as much for the application.

Pepboys used to sell a "sandable" primer,, $.99 a can,
I'd use that for a convenient quick spot cover and sand off during the building process, filling pin holes, etc. The stuff was ready to sand in 20-30min. Usually I'd sand off most of it.
Once I was ready for the finial base primer cote, I'd switch to my gun set up. Much easier to control over a larger area

Spot on!

Most if not all "rattle can" primers and paints are not very durable. IF you have a paint gun and your willing to go to the expense of it you can go with a professional 2K primer/surfacer like PPG's K36. This is a catalysed primer that can be topcoated with just about any product and provides an excellent base.

As with any paint or solvent products use the proper PPE (Personal protective equipment)

Vince