Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Well here is the '84 Starcraft I bought to become my new airplane hauler! I'll try to post pictures and updates occaisonally and would welcome any questions or suggestions. Since these pictures (if I'm uploading them correctly, we'll see) I have washed the whole thing down on the outside with a bleach based cleaner to remove all the green mildew and make it where you don't get dirty just walking past! I also have taken out all the canvas and cushions etc. and had a nice bonfire. It smells better and now I'm ready to start tearing out the rest of the interior. Also have one corner where the lift mechanism has snapped a cable. Am working on investigating and getting parts to fix that but that can wait a bit while I get started on gutting the interior. Also have a few marker lights that have no lenses and need to test the lighting (which will require a new plug to match my tow vehicle). Anyway I'm just getting started.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Good Luck. I have a fellow club member that has converted one nearly identical to yours. As you said, he cleaned out the interior, carpeted it and he can store a lot of planes and related equipment in there.

Install a 12V car battery and wire it so you can run your chargers, etc. off of it. Add some parts bins and you will be in RC heaven.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

One of these days, I will find one of those to convert. Most of the ones down here are complete "junk".[&o]

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Definitely install a separate 12v deep cycle battery for it. Interior lighting and 12v power tools can be run off it. Fix yourself a small workbench in there, too.

Dr.1

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

When you get to it, I would be interested in knowing what the interior vertical clearance is. Got some tall big birds that might be tight if I tried the same thing.

Have fun!

Bedford

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

I can get exact specs later for you but as I remember it, I checked that out and it is 28" vertical clearance under the bunks, which should translate to better than 32" from floor to ceiling (folded down) once I remove them. I may keep one, not sure on that yet.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Nice project Jack. It is unbelievable how similar that is to the trailer that we looked at down hear. I appreciate the thread.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

I have seen several. They built wing racks in the top. When you crank it up the wings are always out of the way. Dennis PS also check the bearings and while your there re-pack the grease. Those little tires turn a lot of R's on the road.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Bedford,
Per actual measurements, at least 28", and at least another 6" in the top so at least 34" inside from floor to top clearance.

Jack

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Dennis,
Planning on checking out and probably just replacing the bearings, though, in the case of this trailer the wheels are actually 13" and fairly high profile so the high revs aren't quite as big an issue as on some of the smaller trailers. Tires look to be in great shape at first glance. Will look them over in greater detail when I get into the bearings and have them off anyway!

Jack

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Here are some pics from today... Spent another 1.5-2hrs starting the tear out. Here is a view of the left (front of the trailer is to the right) side interior before I started. In the front-most storage area is the electrical supply including (apparently) a battery, inverter and access to a plug that allows for powering off of AC. Also a vent setup so that the battery (perhaps anytime the trailer is plugged in??) can charge and vent fumes safely! I think I'll be keeping that stuff intact but may relocate it or build a new enclosure for it....

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Here is the same area several minutes later without the cabinet (1st pic).... Then working on down the side the sink was next... pretty easy, just unscrew some wingnuts to pull the sink and disconnect some flexible tubing. A few hundred screws and a bit of hammering later and that's done. Next is the worst so far... the heater/water heater. Yikes!!! Cut this connection, disconnect that etc... etc... etc.. and then take the outside vent off and pull it out that way... Then take all the screws around the outside off.... and find that two of the screws are rusted [:@] so time for the grinder!!! That got it to move, but wait, you can't with that gray cardboard (heavy duty) shield around it so tear part of that off too [>:]!!! That did it... watch out for the water draining out the bottom all over your shoes ;) Now there's a big hole but at least the big monster is gone... next the fridge.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Hmmmm... How come all my attached pics now take up half a page!!! I thought I was doing them the same way I did the first post... images are the same size on my computer.... I don't get it. Help!

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

The fridge comes out pretty easy just some electrical and hoses. DON'T do it like I did and pull apart all the cabinets to get at it... [&:]there's another of those outside vents that will get you easy access to the back. Once the connects are off and you unscrew a dozen more screws around the front it slides right out and it's pretty light too! That water tank you can see beyond is easy as well. Just unscrew the outside fill and drains and pull off the hoses and it slides right out! That one I got right in one!! :D

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

So here is the end result for today! Got a few water and gas tubes to get underneath and remove and some electrical connects I want to trace back and either cap or remove entirely (trying to keep the electrical working when it's all over). Probably will re-route the big heavy electrical wiring still hanging on the wall before it's all over just to keep it safe and out of the way but it's OK for now. Final shot to show all the tools I've used so far. Nothing to complicated needed so far and the battery operated drill/screwdriver has gotten the biggest workout. I probably took out 150 screws today!!! Dont' want to rip this stuff out using a sledgehammer and create any new damage I'll have to fix later.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Ok, so time for some decisions... should I keep either of the slideout bunks (front is very long... maybe 5 feet; back is shorter... maybe 4 feet long)? Considered keeping back as a lay-flat wing rack but now thinking a rack up in the pop-up top is a better idea and these things are just going to be in the way so maybe get rid of them??? Also, what to do about the brakes. I think this thing has electric brakes but I'm hoping I don't really need them by the time I get rid of a lot of weight inside the box (must have pulled 2-300lbs or more out today, plus lost all the canvas, plus if I get rid of pullouts...) Probably 500-700lbs lighter when I'm done?? Plus I don't know what shape they are in and don't have the Explorer wired to handle them yet... Any thoughts?? I'll post pics and comments on the right side when I start there and on the slideouts when/if they go.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

This thread brought back some recent memories and I thought you might like a little inspiration. I performed a similar conversion on an 70's vintage pop-up and it works great for my needs. I was unable to find repair parts for the crank mechanism so I had to hinge my top. It works, but it's not as good as one that raising normally. I agree with the battery recommendation. As you can see, I strapped mine on front so I'd have more room inside. I have almost no money in trailer, but I quit counting the hours invested. I would suggest you stop counting too! ;)

As you can see, I left my rear slide-out and it's very handy. It makes a pretty good workspace and provides another level of storage for me. However, if my top raised and lowered, I'd probably remove it for the wing storage idea you've already been given. I removed the front slide-out because I couldn't get into the trailer while it was hooked up to the truck!

I can't imagine you'd need brakes on this trailer. These are usually very light. I think I could pull mine with a small, 4-cylinder car.

Good luck with the conversion.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

I see you've been VERY busy! I like the wing rack in the top idea better than keeping the slideouts. It's easy to think of also having the slideouts being used as a work table, but, you'll have a cabinet top available for that.

You won't need the electric brakes either since the loaded trailer will be relatively light.

Tim

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Thanks for the height info. I don't think that would give and of my birds a problem, and I can't think of any I might build that big. Just have to remember that it needs more than a little clearance for the bounce factor.

Now, where do I find one of these dudes?

Bedford

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

If you ever plan on towing with a car I would recommend fixing the brakes. If you will always tow with a truck you should be fine. Even after your finished with the trailer you will really notice it back there with a car, especially when stopping.

Take a look at this site. It has a lot of information on axle maintenace and brakes. http://www.dexteraxle.com/products___literature

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Well I did a bit more work today but no more 'till sometime after the weekend I'm afraid as I'll be out of town [8D] ... but not flying [:o]
Anyhow there was good news and bad news today. First the good news. I decided to tackle taking the bunks out. Here's where I started (Pic 1) It looked I was going to have to take out 4 bolts on each side that would allow each of the successive telescoping sections to come out... I decided to start with the one closest to the body of the trailer. I pulled out the slide far enough to line up the hole in the slide (You can see the whole on the back of the rail in Pic 2) with the head of the bolt (which turned out to be an allen bolt... unlike everything else I'd seen so far!) and unscrewed one one on each side. Holey-Moley!! That was all it took. 5 minutes later and I was here (pic 3). :D Five more minutes and I had both out! That was sweet :D

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Then the other half of the story (insert sinister organ music here). Here is a couple pics of the other side of the trailer (right side). Haven't really decided how much of the cabinetry to leave in place but thought I'd pull the drawers and open the cabinets and get an idea how to reroute the electrical in case I decided to lose the cabinets and drawers... when I did I noticed a soft spot in the floor in the rear of the trailer. [:o] I pulled up a bit of flooring (was planning on carpeting over it anyway so figured a few chunks missing wouldn't matter) and found this (final pic in this post)... :( Yep, there's lots of soft, wet, rotten wood under there. Not all of it is that soft and wet but the back corners are practically turning to dust and there's that pretty black color that pretty much tells me it's all absorbed a little dampness over the years. Now the big question is what to do about it. I don't think I can tear it ALL out 'cause it appears to me (not sure yet) that the sidewalls sit on this base plywood. If I tear them out as well what's left?? Can I/Should I just buy some 3/8" waterproof ply and cut it to size and burying all this underneath?? With just a little liquid nail and some careful measuring and cutting I could piece it in... maybe just 4-5 individual pieces and then caulk around the edges to sort of seal it to the sides?? Would give me a good base for screw eyes or whatever to tie planes to... Anyone faced this?? I'm not looking for perfect here but would like to have a reasonably solid/level floor. Guess I could strip the rest out (all the cabinets etc..) 'till it's just a box and then start pulling all the sidewalls and the floor up as well. Anyone know how the floor is held in place?? The sidewalls? How far stripped down should I go until I'm going to be forming new sheet metal ;)??

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Several years ago I turned a similar pop-up into a utility trailer and just last year repaired damage, similar to what you have, in friend’s travel trailer. You would be correct that the walls sit on top of the floor. The floor is attached, likely by screws, to the metal frame of trailer. Just look underneath you will get good idea what’s going on. If the floor is damaged there is a high probably the walls in that area, have similar damage too. If you do need to get into wall repair I would just replace the damaged area of the floor. Trust me you will want to repair the walls if there is rot. When I took apart my pop-up, there was similar damage and once the interior cabinets and such were removed the walls came off way too easy.

Don’t let the wall repair scare you, the construction of these trailers is amazingly simple. Since you obviously need to fix a leak, probably right at the corner piece, I would just remove the exterior siding on the two sides, for easy access for working. The siding comes off real easy once you remove the aluminum trim pieces, which are screwed in with hex head screws about every 4 to 6 inches. Be prepared to buy some new screws for the reassembly, because several will likely be rusted beyond recognition. The siding will be stapled to the wall frame and those can be pulled with end nippers. When you do any frame work repair don’t use all purpose screws (AKA: drywall screws)… Nail everything! Those screws are too brittle and will snap in the twisting and bouncing of the trailer as it’s going down the road.

Once you have frame repair done the siding goes back on just as easy as it came off, but you will likely need another pair of hands to help you get each piece lined up so it locks into the previous. When you put the corner pieces back on be sure to clean all old sealer off and use a polybutle (sp?) calk in its place, and this is not the place to use it sparingly.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

This trailer is not equipped with brakes.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Billy/All,
I appreciate the thoughts but at this point I'm really considering just going ahead and tearing out all the internal cabinetry and such and just buying 1/4 or 3/8" ply and putting it down right over what's there (after just a good cleanup, maybe some bleach based spray to kill any mold/mildew and then dry it out best I can) and then using either 1/4" ply or 5mm Luan (sp?) and covering up all the side walls similarly. Basically just building a box within the box so that I'll have a nice clean new finish on the entire interior. My reasoning is this. I examined the floor and confirmed at an RV dealer that the floor in this trailer is ply over an insulation layer over ply and it's all glued together! If I go to pull that out it's going to be quite the mess! I'd probably end up having to pull it all out and rebuilding the whole thing. Liable to be expensive and a big job. Neither of which I really want to tackle... Will if I have to but hoping I don't have to! If I fix the leaks I think just covering it over will last a very long time. and tearing out all of it does have the plus that whatever I put back in for storage (cabinets, deck boxes or whatever can be where I want it, not wherever it already exists. Very flexible. I hate losing the counter top but don't THINK I can keep it and accomplish this without adding a bunch of complication to the project... Oh well, I can always add some back in, can't I!?
So 3 sheets of 1/4 or 3/8" ply, sanded one side and 5-6 sheets of Luan plus plenty of liquid nail should be enough to form a nice neat box... Maybe even put small quarter round down along the floor edges and up the corners and make sure all the edges are well glued and/or caulked. Then Kilz the whole thing and paint the sidewalls a nice semi-gloss white and carpet the floor with some cheap, very short napped carpet. Also saw some nice plasic L shaped corner pieces (kinda like molding) at Lowes that are about 3/4" wide. I think they use in drywalling to protect outside edges. If I apply a generous amount of sealant and lay that down over the top edge of the luan/sidewalls it should help keep out any occaisonal moisture and keep splinters at bay... The only thing I am still not sure about is keeping the one bench seat (front right) which has access from the top of the bench inside and outside the trailer via a key locked hatch... I could just rebuild something there I suppose... Will need to build a small "box" to house the battery and inverter in the front left as well. Need to also move the electrical outlets that are in those back cabinets to the outside wall... that really shouldn't be difficult... Lots of work to do, but it's all fun!

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Hi all,
Got back in town tonight and went ahead with gutting the rest so I can get to the fun part... re-building it!! Here's the latest view. Yuck!! [:'(] The back panels were so bad I just ripped them out. I think the rest of the sidewalls are good enough to leave in place. If I can get a majority of the vinyl to come up I'm going to bleach down the floors and sidewalls (as well as the exposed back areas...) and do my best to dry it up. I need to get underneath and rip a bunch of tubing (gas/water) out so it won't fall off inconveniently on the road :D... Also need to come up with a plan for re-routing the power lines... either behind side walls or maybe just down through the floor and back up so that they are out of the way or at least protect them with conduit or the like... not sure yet. I know I want them around! Having power already distributed around the trailer can't be bad!! [8D] Picked up a converter so I can plug the lighting up and test that whenever it's convenient. Also got 2 of the 3 cables I need to fix the lift mechanism and some lubrication for same. 3rd cable will be mailed to me soon. Still have the fridge and kept the counter top so may re-use those once I test to make sure the fridge works! Also planning on keeping the overhead lights and re-installing a switch to turn them on/off near the door so if I'm loading or unloading near dark I can see what I'm doing. Lots more stuff running through my brain... sealing up the lid so no more water!!! How/what type of storage to install... What sort of enclosure/where to hide the battery/inverter... etc... etc... etc...
One question for you all... What should I do for tie down points once I get the new floor/sidewalls in place?? I considered an L shaped piece of aluminum (well probably at least 2) running front to back the length of the trailer. I've seen it with holes every 1/2 inch or so big enough to accept all sorts of hooks/bungees etc... Turn it open side dow and run a screw through it every foot or so and you have lots of tie-down pts... bit of a trip hazard but not sure it would be a problem and I want something flexible... Ideas welcome!

Second question... What sort of wing rack should I build? Planning on something that is up in the lid. That space is at least 6 inches deep and I want something flexible to store all sorts of wings as well as sturdy and protective of the wings. Will need to include good tied downs of some sort and maybe a way to pivot it down for easy access?? More ideas needed!

Enough for now. I'll keep you all posted as progress is made.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

You could go down to the local ace hardware store and buy a few handles that fit the sides of a trunk. They fold down when you let go of them when lifting a trunk so they would probably fold down onto the floor when not in use. Just a suggestion, may or may not work for you. They have a lot of different style handles, you find a different one that works better.

I've been following your thread with interest as I may need do something simular.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Well I've been to the lumber yard and chewed a couple hundred bucks up on plywood, some smaller stock and some adhesive, caulk, screws and the like. Started to put some of it to use repairing the worst of the water damage in the rear of the trailer. The hardwood that makes up the frame on the back was mostly gone so replacing it was the first step to rebuilding this thing. also had to add some extra wood to give me something to attach plywood to once the liquid nail dries that is holding this together at the moment. I think once the stuff dries I'll be ready to cut a piece of ply to lay across the back and screw in place. This may be the one place I use some adhesive to attach the ply as well to make sure the structure of the trailer is maintained back here. Once the ply is in, if it looks like I'll have the space (need to leave enough space on those uprights to attach to with the wood coming down the sidewalls) I will cover the ply with Luan to give me a nice interior finish. The rest of the walls will be Luan (over the existing wood so structural strength is not an issue) and the floor will be raw ply since I intend to carpet it (cheaply) anyway! As you can see I had to remove the tube holder (bed supports etc... were stored in here from outside) to make my new structure fit but I couldn't figure a good use for that anyway since the lid was broken and so it was just another water entry point. Good riddance! Hopefully will have more for you all soon.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

I have a 13ft inside that I converted a couple years ago. now that you took all the stuff out be sure and check the outside walls for being ridged. I had to put some plywood triangle braces back in to hold the walls in place. the walls were held by the cabinets and appliances. They would flop back and forth in the wind with nothing inside...


I have room in mine for two third scales put together and several other models taken apart.

I would try to post picts but the digital camera is 100 miles away taking pict of my grand children..

Don//

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Don,
I hadn't mentioned it but have noticed the same thing... at least on the right side where the door is. I am planning on reinstalling some counter space and storage boxes that will (I hope) also re-establish the rigidity of that right side wall. Between that and building a new "box" inside the box I think I'll be OK. Thanks for the tip. When you get the camera back post some pics! Always looking for good ideas.

Jack

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

You might get some of that "Under Coat in a Can" and spray the bottom of your floor before you put it in. It will help from any future rot and might be easier to do now than later.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Well I have made a bit of progress today. Got a piece of ply cut and mounted - screwed and glued to the back "U" frame I built in rear of the trailer the other day. Also got the first piece of ply placed in the floor. The problem with that was because of the old wood rot/missing I didn't have enough left in places to get a proper bite and the new ply is not perfectly flat, nor would I expect it to naturally lay flat considering the weather extremes it's likely to see anyway!! My ingenious [&:] (I hope) solution was to glue the sides of the flooring to the old wall boards and rear 2x2 base to my frame and then add some temporary bracing that I will pull out tomorrow and hope for the best. If this doesn't seem to be totally effective I may go back (and have considered doing this anyway) and add some wood at each joint (like quarter round but probably will use something in the 1x1 - 2x2 range) and glue and screw that to really reinforce things.... we'll see. For now the next steps are going to be to finish the floor with ply and start working on the sidewalls with the Luan. Once it's all in, I'll seal all the joints with either silicon caulk or caulk-adhesive if I feel some strength is needed. I need to start making some covers for the lifters in each corner. There were hardwood blocks across these that seemed to actually be structural and maintain spacing so that the lifters didn't bind but some were in bad shape so I'll replace them all. Plus some ply/luan cut to size for "modesty covers" that I presume are just to keep things from getting into the tracks that don't belong there ;).
I may just bond some Luan to some ply to make full length covers all in one piece with some hardwood strips glued on if I feel the strength is needed... Probably need some pics to explain properly so will do that when I get to that point. Anyway, here is where it sits for tonight. Looking forward to pulling the temporary bracing (wax paper underneath it to make sure it stays temporary!) and see how this is working out.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Wish I'd read your post on the undercoat thing BEFORE I glued and screwed those first two pieces in place! The rest of the floor is in much better shape so won't likely have any problem. Oh, well. Live and learn. If I'm back doing this next fall again because of Rot or mold problems I guess I'll do that! I'm hoping a good heavy coat of Kilz (or two) will discourage that for a long time to come. That and of course re-sealing all the edge joints on the pop-top where it appears to me things must be leaking and anywhere else I suspect water will get in.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

The floor is in and I think it is going to work out OK. My glue set up and is holding up well. I walked around the edges up against the glue joints and nothing moved. :D The wood gives just a bit when you walk on the floor (not enough to see but it feels like it is somewhat cushioned) but much less than it did when I got the trailer and I think it will work out OK. Here are the pics at the current time. I need to start on the Luan for all the side walls next but my eyes are tired from all the measuring and cutting today so will put that off 'till tomorrow at least. If I do anything else tonight it will be to install the new marker lights, check the electrical, or something minor like that. Enough physical labor for one day! I knew there was a reason I went to college. ;) Probably should have patched all those little holes going through the floor before I laid the wood down but why start thinking ahead now [sm=wink_smile.gif].

I also need to do some caulking around the wheel wells and such but I'm thinking I may wait till I get all the lumber up and then go fill all the gaps at once right before I undercoat it all. Might need to install whatever cabinetry is going to be permanent before I do that as the gap between the sidewalls and the wheel wells varies widely when the walls wiggle around. Hopefully those will get stabilized when I get some of the sidewalls "Luan'd" and those cabinets in place.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

More progress today. Finished sheeting the right sidewall and installed new hardwood blocks to keep the lift mechanism in their pockets. Those little blocks also help stiffen up the hole structure so I bought some hardwood and created new ones for all 4 corners. They definitely make a big difference. Installed 3 sets and left the 4th for after I fix the lift cable on that corner. Here's a couple snaps of the results for today. Takes a while to do this (well for me anyway [&:]). I measure 3 times, cut once, trial fit, cut again and repeat... I always cheat a little toward to big and sure enough it is! I've never figured out how to stretch lumber though so beats cutting to short I guess. Still debating on how much storage I will need and how much I need just to help reinforce the sidewalls! Bolar had a good point when he mentioned how weak they are without the internal structures to hold them up. I'm pretty settled on a 24"wx36"lx18"h structure front left to hold the battery, inverter/charger system. That will hold all the stuff and have some extra room for storage and whatnot. Might event put drawer back in right above it so might be more like 24" high. Front right I need to do something because that is the weakest wall plus it has that external access hatch that might be handy. The opening is about 12" tall by 30" long. Might just build a box about 18" or wide and install that... maybe without a top so access is handy from inside as well... or maybe with a true lid that can be opened. Back right I plan on re-installing most of the countertop that was here. I can see setting a plane on it and then climbing in the trailer and grabbing it to sit it down on the floor. Leaning over the wall to do this is a stretch for me. If I put the counter in just an inch or two below the top of those walls and maybe put a slight lip around it... I think it will come in handy for a lot of things. Underneath could be left open or partly enclosed for storage... Maybe a spot for pop-up under there?? Partly will have to be determined by the need for support of the top. Certainly that will make the wall on that side stiffen up.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Got back on it today and first order of business was to pull the bad lift arm and recable it. I found it interesting that there is nothing that really holds those things down except the cross brace at top interfering with the pulley. Guess there's really no need for anything considering the whole weight of the top holds it down and they sit right on a frame member below. Here's a pic with the lift mechanism removed. Just a framed up wood socket really. Got the internal cable connected and routed the one from under the trailer up into the lift mechanism. Need to attach the final cable to the winch and I'll be back in business on the pop-up part of trailer.

After lunch I wnet back to work on the interior walls and flooring. Added a little glue where there are gaps or edge to edge corners where there is nothing to screw to and will let it dry for tonight. Feels good to get that taken care of. Now I can start working on counter top... storage cabinets and the like. Making progress! [8D]

Also spent a little time underneath and pulled all the remaining copper gas lines and took a quick peek at the winch mechanism. Looks like it might be a bear to get that cable hooked up where it belongs as access is limited and the old cable looks like it's balled up around things in the winch. I'm thinking of jacking up the whole rear end and putting the thing on some jack stands to give me some more clearance to work on it and see if I can get in there and get rid of the old cable first. I'll try to get pics if I get some space to work!

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Hi all,
Took a break on this while my sister-in-law had open heart surgery... two valves replaced etc... She's doing great, just went home today. Anyway, I got some time to work on the trailer today. Got to work re-installing some of the counter along the right side and also the externally accessible storage box was re-built. These structures helped stiffen up the sides and I did my best to get everything as square as possible and I feel like that worked out pretty well since the door and outside hatch to the storage area seem to open and close smoothly now and the whole trailer feels much stiffer. :)
I need to finish up the storage box as you can see in this first picture. Probably will re-install the door on the end that allows access from that direction as well and not sure yet if the sides will just enclose it or if I'll build them up a bit higher so that I can use the top as a tray/shelf for stowing transmitter boxes or other items... I don't intend it as a seat anyway so might just as well use that space for something! Also will probably finish enclosing the wheel well under the counter with a front panel so as to make it neater and give me a place to mount the AC outlet over there. It's just hanging at the moment.
One more "box" to build on the left front to house the battery/inverter/cord plus I'll probably build a cabinet around the other wheel well as they are kinda flimsy and if someone put their weight on it I think it would dent badly and possible interfere with the wheel... that would be bad. [&:] Also picked up some plastic race/conduit stuff to hide the wires on the other wall and protect them from damage. Will wait to install that 'till all the rest of the construction is done inside... right before undercoating starts.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Made another push on the interior today. First two photos show the new power center in the front RH corner. Top is easily lifted off to service fuses, battery etc... The battery box has a hole out the bottom (just like when it was a camper) and a vent out the sidewall to allow for airflow during charging. Need a new vent hose and have to sort out the battery hold down but otherwise this is looking pretty good. Next two shot show the new radio storage box in the front right corner of the trailer. there is a door on the back to access things from inside or you can come in from the outside. Things are a bit tight but I can get two radios, in their cases in plus some excess space that I'm sure I'll find a use for! I figure if I need access to anything without cranking up the lid it will be the radios as I might just want to grab an electric from the garage and throw in the back of the car or truck and head out if time is tight or whatever. Especially since that hatch is lockable, it seems like a good spot for the expensive stuff! Next is a shot down the left side showing off the new "plastic conduit" to neaten up and protect the wiring running down that wall. Finallyis a pic showing the outlet under the counter mounted and the wires hidden up underneath. There's still a long list of items on the todo list but today I actually feel like I am starting to see what it will look like and I'm pretty happy so far [8D]. Won't be long and I'll have to do a bit of finish sanding on some corners, caulking and paint, carpet etc... etc.... :D

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

It`s staring to come together . Looks good.

RE: Pop Up Trailer Conversion
 

Here's a suggestion for interior lighting that is cheap and very effective. Look around your local Big Lots discount store (or whatever name is in your area right now for white LED Christmas lights. I bought several 25' strings for about $6.50 each, plus a 70 watt cigarette lighter size inverter. If you install them with a little care, you won't show any wire and 2 strings inside the cargo area of my Dodge Sprinter van lights it up like crazy with almost no power drain and no heat buildup from the lights. When I got through, you can't tell that it's not some custom interior shop job. As you know, LED's last forever, and so far, vibration hasn't damaged them. Also, if you're of a mind to use "rope lights" they have them cheap also, but they don't put out as much light.

Roy