psycooclimber

well *****. now she wont start. i have been eyeing the tiger drive, what size is the shaft on the maxx. or is there any other starter i should use.

by the way i am too lazy for pull start and too poor (still a student) for a box.

ils

Which engine would help. And what's wrong with your electric start? Can't find replacement gears?

oatmealman

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i love my tiger drive it's tyte starts right up works i all directions,so easy to use,plus it is so much better than ll that pointless weight for those reatarded ez start systems,i'll post some pics of it on my trck

psycooclimber

2.5 and the motor is fried. i use a 10 volt drill batery

ils

I am a little lost. Wouldn't it a little cheaper and easier to just replace the ezstart motor? And what does the 10 volt drill battery got to do with this?

psycooclimber

10 volt on a 7 volt motor is 50% higher load than it was ment for and the the new head is a high compresion head so a new easy start wont help. and i dont like the easy start.

ils

Is your engine easy to start? If it is, you may want to consider the pull start. All you will need to put in your pocket is the glow ingniter.

Deandome

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I thought that starters that crank too hard (i.e., regardless of engine flooding) kill bearings on engines, but you say your head is high compression, so I guess you gotta do SOMETHING.....

I guess there are at least 3 variants of the same starter, mainly known as the RotoStart. OFNA has a version & backplates for the 2.5 (and lotsa others). I don't think it's 'smart' though, meaning it won't stop if it senses lotsa 'friction'. Again, probby good for you, but I like that in the EZ start. This is also great if you have several 7.2V stick batteries lying around from your EZ Start..nothing extra to buy.

Otherwise, that Tiger thingie looks great for drill starters, and many drills have clutches that can sorta act as safety mechanisms. But I've always seen drills as really big & obnoxious to tote around...and I dunno if non-precise/constant RPMs are good for starting. Of course, most drills are variable speed...I wonder if some of them spin faster than these motors want/need??

WOW...I just saw that OFNA now has an EZ Start "clone" that works on lotsa other motors!!!

http://www.ofna.com/start-power.html

Wonder if it's any 'better' than Traxxas, or any different, other than the strange controller design

Dean

R/C Madman

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The Roto start works great! I first got it for my Fantom .27 and then just bought back plates for my other engines.

psycooclimber

thats the thing i dont have any 7.2 volt sticks. 20 bucks for the batery and 40 for the chager. too much for me. thats y i used a drill batery on the easy start and burned it out ( but it lasted nearly 2 years). all i have broken in 2 years is: cracked drive shaft, worn cluch, 3 spur gears, and the easy start. but i need to know what size starter to get. IE the one way berring size.

Deandome

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NEW & used EZ Starts are dime-a-dozen on "The Bay"...and over on the UE board, you coulda had an unused Revo one for less than $20 (probby), controller, motor, EVERYTHING!! He's listed it at "The Bay", but he might de-list and/or sell direct if you contact him. Here's the UE post (you might hafta register, but it's a GREAT site with a GREAT buy/sell/trade forum!!

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...&threadid=7224

Also, search "The Bay" for other ones and/or rotostarts.

As for batts....1500mah NiCads are very cheap....$10-15 new almost anywhere (tower, maybe "the bay", etc. You DO want two, or perhaps one 3000+ mah pack, preferably a NiMH rather than NiCad, though

psycooclimber

who is he?
the head is a high compersion and the easy start CAN NOT turn the engine over.
i dont have a charger.

I WANT A ROTO_START but dont know what size i need. this is the only question now; What is the size of the starter shaft that i need? i have a one track mind and want the ROTO- START, nothing else.

Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

Err....I think you're a bit confused....

Rotostarts are about $35...then you need a backplate for YOUR engine...another $15. Then, of course, ROTOSTARTS NEED THE SAME 7.2v STICK PACKS THAT EZ START USES!! So you'd need a charger too (peak or not....$10-100).

MINIMUM rotostart 'start-up': $80 http://www.nitrohouse.com/ofna_picco.htm

Wanna use drill batteries? Go ahead...I can't fathom how these electronics/motors are gonna handle 9/12/14.4/18V batteries, not to mention the obnoxious ergonomics.

Gotta pay to play!!

Dean

t to the maxx2

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http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEVM9&P=ML umm 30 not 80....

Deandome

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I was figuring in 2-$15 batteries & $5-10 for a basic wall adaptor charger.

Still, that's a great deal, cheaper than my link AND it comes w/a backplate!!

Dean

chuckyegg

OK...everybody just shoot me. But I prefer the pull start on my buggy. Its less complicated, and theres less heavy junk to cark around with you. My pull start motor always starts up right away within a pull or 3, so long as I prime it propely.

Tempted to ditch the (perfectly servicable) ez start on my maxx for a pullstart. Or a pullstart OS .18 cvrx.

theres still no fix for the stalling at half tank on my 2.5. I can only assume now, having changed the manifold gasket, washed out the pipe, replaced all tubing, replaced pipe coupler, new glow plug, new cooling head.........new tank o-ring seal.........that I have an airleak in my cruddy old 2.5. I detest this lame engine. Being second hand didnt help..it never ran even once, without cutting out after half a tank. If I richen it up enough to allow for someleaning out...its waaaay too rich at the start, and it still stalls anyway.

psycooclimber

roto start is a brand but it is also the generic name of that style starter. i am going to get the "tiger drive" with which i can use a drill with a 7/32 hex in the drill. and it is only $18 and it can be used with the stock back plate.

all i need to know is what size is the shaft that the one way berring rides on.

R/C Madman

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6mm

Deandome

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No you don't...all you have to do is buy the TigerDrive that says it's specifically for the 2.5 engine

They come w/ the one-way, which IS 6mm BTW.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHGP1&P=7

And it looks like you need to spend another $10 for the shaft itself...still a pretty affordable starting setup.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGFK4&P=V

Dean

fhm101

Before you buy the tiger drive, consider which way you are going to mount it so you have access to it. Can't do it straight up because of the header. Can't mount it facing left because of the fuel tank. You might get away with facing it right, but you still have the pipe and header over there that may cause problems. It's been so long since i've looked close at a stock maxx so I can't recall off the top of my head what kind of room you have on that side for access. You might want to talk to someone that has actually run the tiger on a 2.5 maxx before you spend the money. What kind of high compression head do you have?

Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

WOW...great post!!

I think you're right...I can't think of a position on this that would work well with a Maxx, as there doesn't seem to be a "rear" position option, just up/down/left/right.

That's why rotostarts are great...the rear-facing location isn't blocked by anything (towers?). It just seems like it's the (only?) way to go with a stock layout.

And I too would like to hear more about this head. I'm always suspect of things like this that attempt to re-engineer something that dozens of REAL engineers worked on for years. If Traxxas could squeeze more power outta the 2.5 by increasing compression (lowering the top of the combustion chamber), they woulda done it! It sounds like it would significantly shorten your engine life, too, as high compression of a soft brass/aluminum sleeve/piston would kill your "pinch" a lot faster.

I'm certainly not against trying something new, but it's clear that you're concerned about costs, so shortening your engine's life is something you gotta think about!

Dean

psycooclimber

thank you!

psycooclimber

this just in... i took the ACNCM head off to see how much more compression than stock it had and then found with a micrometer that tower shiped the wrong spacer. i ordered the replacement spacer and they sent the super thin (that would explain a lot) so they are sending a new one now. but i may get the tigerdrive anyway. all the q's have ben ansered.

fhm101

The real key to finding out if your option head will work and what it needs to work correctly is to check the deck height of the two heads and see how the ACNCM head compares to the stocker.

psycooclimber

i did, thats why i had the micrometers out, i then checked the spacer when i founr that the ACNCM head was only.003 inch larger. so i checked the spacer and it was .006 thiner than stock that adds up to .009 smaller cylinder height. with a stock spacer it should be taken back to .003 shorter cylinder height. we will have to see what hapens. but now that i know this i will just replace the one way and the motor and see ir that will work.