yamahamoto22

i striped my spur gear for the second time in two runs and im gonna pick some up this weekend...if i was turn the slipper all the way in so it was locked, how many turns to i need to come out on it to help the problem

Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

I've never heard of the slipper causing stripped spurs. I could see how it could crack a few teeth, but if the whole thing is ground down, it's a problem with your spur/clutchbell gear mesh.

I had my first stripped spur 2 weeks ago (not bad for almost 2 yrs.!), but I heard a good tip that seems to have given me perfect results.

You often hear that a piece of paper is a good "spacer", but I had been using it more as a TEST than as a spacer when I lock in the engine (I'd run it thru AFTER install & make sure the paper didn't get ripped too much). Someone said to use a plastic 'shopping' bag (grocery store/Walgreens...those thin things) instead of paper. cut a strip and fold it so there are THREE layers (kind of a tri-fold, as just folding it in half twice would obvioulsly give you FOUR layers). Then you mount your engine w/the screws loose, put the plastic between the gears, push things together, THEN tighten the screws.

As for the slipper, in general you tighten it up & then back off between 1/8-1/4 turn...that's all!! At least that's what I do...I don't like it too loose & haven't damaged the tranny YET!!

Dean

redheat8

If all your moving parts are in good shape and the mesh is correct you shouldnt be stripping gears so go back and make sure the mesh is correct before running the truck, RED

AddictedtoRC

I run a RRP steel spur and have never had a problem, i highly recommend them

R/C Madman

My Feedback: (1)

I second the RRP spur but, you still need your mesh right or you will smoke CB's insted!

fhm101

Check your engine mount for cracks. If it's OK, make sure you are not only getting good mesh as has already been stated, also make sure you have the engine lined up correctly front to rear. In short you want the engine crankshaft to be parallel to the shaft the spur is riding on. last of all make sure your clutchbell is not chewed up and the bearings are still good.

I've always used a strip of waxed paper to set my mesh and have never had any problems. You want the mesh to be tight enough to pleat the paper, but if it tears it you are too tight.

Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

I dunno, a steel spur is the very definition of "high rotating mass", which of course is something you want to avoid.

Again, I've ruined ONE plastic spur in 2 years, and it was clearly my error. For the cost of the RRP steelie, you can buy probby 6 plastic ones, and Madman says, you are still gonna kill SOMETHING if you don't get a good mesh.

Just my opinion!!

BTW, if you go plastic, I compared Traxxas spurs to Kimborough & found the Traxxas ones a LOT stronger. You can bend the Kimb. one a fair amount, where the Traxxas is really stiff. I thought the purpose of aftermarket stuff was to improve on stock, but this shows that that's not always the case!!

Dean

psycooclimber

yes, it was i who stated that one should place a tri fold plastic grocery bag between the spur and cluch bell (sry. still doing english homework). i have had the engine off maby 10 times and not one spur striped using this method.

fhm101

Since the plastic won't tear like paper if the mesh is too tight, how do you tell when it's too tight with the plastic bag?

psycooclimber

because of the fhickness othe bag it is minosable to get then that tight, unless you use excessive force. just put the plastic between the two and push the engine over lightly. if you like the paper better than use the paper i just said what works for me.

redheat8

Good point in reguard to inspecting the motor mount and centering . That was something that I over looked when I first got into this hobbie . LOLRED