tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

Bash,

Do you ever use the Traxxas default needle settings? You know... LSN flush with case....HSN 4 turns out from closed....idle 2mm gap?

You say you tune to "sound and visual" how should the trx 2.5 sound and what do you mean by visual?

BaSh_2_tHa_mAxX

My Feedback: (1)

I start from defualt and use the technique i stated above to tune.

Sound: should be a consistent smooth clean sound

Visual: the way it runs and how hot it gets

oc off road

Tomcat Ibought this screw kit. It has the perfect lock nut for RPM arms plus extras are alwaws good to have

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...973972611&rd=1

BaSh_2_tHa_mAxX

My Feedback: (1)

That screw kit looks nice and says the heads wont strip. Thats a a+! I might get it eventually but i already switched over to phillips head.

oc off road

Yeah I bid 18.75 and got out bid but got a 2nd chance offer @18.75 + shipping i works great. I got rid of all my old stripped out stuff.

BaSh_2_tHa_mAxX

My Feedback: (1)

Nice work! thats a barg. Im still waitin on my stuff to fix my truck [:'(][]. Cant wait till it gets here then i can tun iy again i havent bashesd it in ages [>:]

oc off road

6 tanks yesterday. I tried to break something. but the only thing that happened the rear bumpermounts ripped off. too many wheelies

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

Bash, Everyone,

I have a problem I hope you all can help me with.
I have purchased a set of Powerline Aluminum Front T-Maxx Bulkheads that come with a set of hinge pins and "e" clips. I want to attach my new RPM A-arms to those bulkheads.
Here is the problem:
The lower RPM A-arms Fit perfectly to the bulkheads but the hinge pins for the upper RPM A arms are the same exact length as the upper a- arm is wide.....meaning the hinge pin goes completely through the a arms holes but it is not long enough to put on the "e" clips. Here are some pics.
My LHS told me to take the hinge pin in the fore ground and drill the bulkhead and RPM arms to fit it through.
I am pretty sure that will void the RPM warrenty and weaken the arm and or bulkheads. There has got to be some other way to do this with out destruction of the parts.








Has anyone ever put RPM A-arms on aluminum bulkheads on a T-maxx before and how did you do it?


Thanks


Robert

BaSh_2_tHa_mAxX

My Feedback: (1)

These might solve your problem they dont needy e clips to be secure. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXSP42&P=ML

boss_blueangels

Hello fellow T-Maxxer's... Couple of questions...

What is the advantage of getting all the alum. parts? I was talking with someone and they said that although the plastic parts snap, once an aluminum part is bent/dented it's pretty much useless. First of all, is this true? And if so, how much harder is it to dent/bend the aluminum than it is to snap a plastic part? Having several years with RC experience, Ive come to the conclusion it's better to have something within the system that has weakness designed into it so the bigger, more expensive parts don't break and have to be replaced. (Specially when flying Foamies!!)

Also, what aluminum parts do you recommend FIRST?

OK, next set of questions... I just got my Venom Fail Safe/Temp gage and was wonder where you guys put yours to help protect it from getting damaged by water/mud. I'm gonna wrap it a few times with some clear packing tape unless someone has a better idea. lol

Thanks.

ReDLiNe_XxX

OK this is always brought up and here i am answering yet again. Aluminum is spendy looks awesome but depending on what brand you buy the majority of aluminum is weak it will bend and snap on a big impact or over time. Once its bent it looses all its strength. Have you looked into rpm they are the strongest parts around and guaranteed for life if they break rpm will replace. Rpm is a high strength plastic and in a crash it will flex to abosrb the crash. In a crash in your snap an rpm piece if alum was there you could be assured that you would have had some spendy alum bent. With that said its your choice however not all alum is weak.

This is bash btw

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks Bash, You have opened my eyes to the obvious.
I was an idiot, I thought the stock pins would not work because i thought the aluminum bulkheads were on the outside and you can't thread the pins in to that. I my eyes were opened when you showed me those pins and i went to my truck and just.... .ahem.... put the RPM A Arms right on. I'm such an idiot....I mean DUH!!!!


Really, Thanks Bash.

Here is another problem,

I can not for the life of me keep my engine running. i took it out today and I just CAN NOT tune it right.

When you run your T-Maxx how many times do you have to restart it say in one tank of gas?

Does yours just die some alot while you are running it?

Please help me with this because I am about to go Electric!!!!!!!!

I do not want to give up on my T-MAXX.


Thanks

Robert

ReDLiNe_XxX

Checked your glow plug?
What engine have you got?
Does it overheat?
Bad fuel?
If you answer these q's i will be able to diagnose your problem

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

Hey Driva23,

I have a TRX2.5 I am not sure if its the "R" or not.
Glow plug is fine (white hot)
Overheats BADLY!!! Max Temp recorded 351 Degrees F
Fuel comes from the bottom of the very first gallon used on engine.
Quality of fuel? Great! I always keep it capped.
Fuel Used Traxxas Top fuel 20% Nitro. Same fuel used since new
I have consistantly returned the needles back to base settings and tried to tune from there.
I have put on a new exhaust deflector
I have installed a new Motor Saver air filter
Cut holes in front and back of body for air.

Idles high and rough or not at all. Tried to adjust idle and LSN No avail
Will rarley start when very hot.
Always shifts in to second, not prob there.

I use Duratrax Flashpoint temp gauge to measure temp.

I think this could help you.

Thanks Rob.

BaSh_2_tHa_mAxX

My Feedback: (1)

Driva is me i was posting on my brothers id at that time.

If you run a fuel filter clean it out and replace your fuel lines. And then remove your carburetor from the crankcase and then disassemble it carefully and clean all the pieces thoroughly with warm soapy water. Once youve cleaned it checked it and re assembled give it a hit with wd-40. Also you may want to look into doing the ofna tank mod which mounts perfectly where the batterybox goes. Just move the battery box around and find somewhere where it suits you and then mount the tank. Its the best 18 dollars you can spend. One last thin you may want to invest in a cooling head to keep the crazy temps down if all else fails.

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

Hey Bash, I forgot that was you.


I am running a Dynamite fuel filter and checked it out during all the BS. Like i said before I installed a new Motor Saver Air Filter, The Dynamite fuel filter, and the Exhaust diverter. Do you think these addons are making the engine stuggle to get tuned or what?

I will check out the OFNA fuel tank mod. Where do i look for that?

i will try and get a new coolong head. Any ideas on a brand or type?

Worst comes to worst, i may just do a major engine rebuild per the Traxxas website.

Lemme ask you something. A while ago i pulled my piston's sleeve out and inspected it and i found some gouging at the bottom inside portion of the sleeve. Its in a place that the piston does not ride over. My LHSs
say it is normal for this to happen What do you think? Could I be losing compression in the engine?
If so How do i check for loss of compression?


Rob.

Dr Honda

My Feedback: (4)

Hi,

Here’s a sneak peek of what’s happening to my T-Maxx. Yes... it is growing into a full sized 1/6th scale with a 25cc gas engine. Details will follow later

ReDLiNe_XxX

Thats crazy honda It looks awesome.


Tom those new bits and pieces that you added on should not have affected your performance what so ever. The 2.5 is a very finicky engine. You could either do the ofna tank mod in which you will need http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHSX8&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCWU8&P=7 those 2 things and then to mount it. Once mounted it "should"solve all your problems once your tank is installed i insist that you really give your engine a good clean dissassemble the carb and clean it with warm soapy water cheacking everything is right. A good cooling head is the cnc giant cooling head its made for the 2.5 and i think claims to keep temps down by 30%. Replace your fuel lines.

To check for loss of compression you can judge by performance. If it runs poorly and overheats and then becomes hard to start when hot that is a sign. When overall it is hard to start that is a sign. How much fuel have you run through it.

As stated above the 2.5 is a VERY picky engine it has to be tuned PERFECT for it to run right. The engine is simply to problematic. Most r/cers myself being one of them change from the stock 2.5 the cheapest engine is the os 18 cv-rx its great at 90 usd. More powerful than the 2.5 aswell.

shaggy69_77

just wondering how does the boost bottles work
and would it be better to build a revo from scratch or buy it new
[:-]

BaSh_2_tHa_mAxX

My Feedback: (1)

Im pretty sure boost bottles can only be installed on some engines and barely increase performance. Just for the record they are nothing like a mini nitrous oxcide system [:-] thats what i thought they were at first.

I reckon you should just buy it new instead of piecing it together paying shipping fees left right and centre trying to get all the parts together.

shaggy69_77

where can you get a mini no2 systems

BaSh_2_tHa_mAxX

My Feedback: (1)

They dont work like no2. You can get miiature systems that look like it but are for looks only.

trx1

My Feedback: (2)

well, decided to get out of the maxx scene. i have 2 maxxs,a st 15,a micro rs4,and a couple zip zaps up 4 trade.

let me know if ur interested. all im wanting is 2 reversing esc's

BaSh_2_tHa_mAxX

My Feedback: (1)

Pm me with all the prices i may be interested. Btw why you leaving i aint even thought about leavin yet?

tomcatguy74

My Feedback: (4)

Hey Bash,

Check this out. Now I have not had the time to do that mod or anything you told me about because money is kinda tight but now the truck runs good. I took it out one day and just kinda fudged with the settings and all of a sudden it was running and not dying. I am not sure if it is at its full potential but it is now running without dying as often. I am able to keep temps at about 250 or so. The first day I ran it and all was great, good idling, good responsivness, good brakes, pinch test ran about 3-4 seconds, temps ran at 250 or so. NOW...the next day I ran it it was all over heating and stuff and died a couple of times. I had to tweek the HSN almost a full half turn rich from the previous day's settings. Both days climates were about the same but could it be that even the most insignificant change in temp and humidity like a couple of degrees affect the performance of this engine?

It still wont do wheelies. It really has not done a wheelie since I bought it.

How do I know if it is running at full potential?


Thanks Bash


Rob