aznherb36

Its been a gallon and I havent even gotten my truck stable[&o] Do you guys think it would be a good idea to let my LHS tune it perfect for me?? what does your LHS charge??

RenegadeRevo

My Feedback: (1)

My LHS charges $20 per hour to work on the truck... SOMETIMES, they will tune for free.

stilllost

My Feedback: (3)

what truck? have you leaned/richen the HSN(high Speed Needle)yet? what are the problems you are haveing? and last but not least
DONT GIVE UP

Can't count haw many R/C's i have bought for cheap and turned around and gave them away or trade for someonelses nightmare. i'll take the nightmare stuff and turn it into a sweet dream

foreverNight

If your LHS charges for tuning then dont do it. It may get tuned but, you will most likely have to re-tune the next day.Its not that hard to tune it just takes alot of practice.

Afterburn1

My Feedback: (1)

What is happening, is it not idling? is it bogging down under WOT? no low end? no high end? In order for us to help you you need to give a little more information.

aznherb36

I got the HSN and LSP pretty good already. It accelerates really good. its only that I cant get the idle. it keeps jumping forward.

tommythecat

My Feedback: (2)

If your problem is that it idles to high then:
check you idle screw, turn it counterclockwise to reduce idle speed, but be sure that you always have the throttle trim on the TX set all the way left before adjusting your idle.

Also, check your throttle linkage and make sure it is adjusted properly so that the carb closes against the idle adjustment when you are not on the throttle trigger

If your problem is that it keeps jumping forward even though the idle seems right, then you need to check your clutch spring. It may be broken, causing the shoes to engage even at low RPM's although this should cause constant engagement, not jerking. I'm betting that either your idle is set too high, or your linkage is causing it to hold that carb open wider than the idle stop is set.

aznherb36

Im thinking it is my clutch spring but how do i disassemble that part?? I think its that be recently when I was playing there was some i guess, fuel on the chassis right between the flywheel and the engine. There was not alot just a small line. when I have the truck just sitting there the sliding carb part doesnt close all the way, has very little showing but when I press the brakes it will close all the way.


also when I apply the breaks all the way for about 2-3 seconds it will stall.

tommythecat

My Feedback: (2)

OK,
The first thing you want to do is ensure that your throttle linkage is set up properly

go here [link=http://www.traxxas.com/support/pub/the_complete_tmaxx-setup_guide_pt2.htm]setup guide[/link]
and scroll down until you see the linkage setup section.

Once you get that squared away, you can check on the clutch by removing the engine and then removing the clutchbell by removing the e-clip that holds it on, just slide it off with a small screw driver, Watch you eyes, those e-clips can fly off with some serious velocity, also be careful because if it flies you may lose it.

Once you get the clutch bell off, check the spring that goes around the clutch shoes, it should be on there, and not stretched out.

Let us know what you find

aznherb36

Ok I did the linkage and let me make sure. it used to be when i brake and let go the carb will move towards the idle screw and back. now when I brake it will move towards the idle screw and staay at that place. instead of going back. ( im guessing thats whats causing my truck to have like high RPMS) Is the pic of the linkage ok or need another view?


The clutch shoes and stuff are all good.

tommythecat

My Feedback: (2)

What you want to do is set it up so that when you don't have your finger on the trigger, the carb slide is all the way in. When you apply the brake from there, the carb slide should not move in any as the brake is applied, because it should already be resting on the idle stop screw. If you notice the carb slide moving in when you apply the brake from the idle position, it is an indication that the linkage is not properly adjusted preventing the carb slide from resting on the idle stop screw. When you apply throttle, it shoudl open the carb so that the carb is just hitting fully opened as the servo reaches the end of its swing.

Once you get the linkage setup correctly, start it up, warm it up, and then adjust the idle. When adjusting the idle, either apply brake from the TX while adjusting the idle stop screw, or else just turn the throttle trim all of the way left. That ensures that the carb slide is resting on the idle stop screw, as you adjust the idle stop screw. Once you get the idle just right, then recenter the throttle trim on the TX, and recheck the linkage adjustments as you did earlier. Make sure that the slide is resting on the idle stop screw when you are not touching the trigger.

My t-maxx linkage was all messed up when I got it brand new. I actually had to adjust both linkage slide stops in order to get it set right. During break-in I couldn't figure out why it was stalling every time I hit the brakes.

aznherb36

alright, I got it set right now. So when theres no more snow outside I will try it.

OHH i think I had the idle set good yesterday because when I was holding the brake like halfway it would not jump and it was doing low rpm. cant wait to try. But what if it stalls still when I apply the brake for like 3 seconds??

tommythecat

My Feedback: (2)

If that happens try increasing the idle a tad. If that doesn't help then lean the low speed needle 1/16th -1/8 turn. wash rinse repeat...

Afterburn1

My Feedback: (1)

Turn your idle stop screw out just a hair if it is cutting out when you apply the brake. Just enough to keep it from doin that. That is because the servo is pushing the carb closed when you hit the brake and choking the motor.

aznherb36

ok it is no longer jumping, it is steady but when I drive it and go of the throttle or if it sits there without me touching the throttle it will stall. when it stalls i hear like a click. And It dont see alot of blue smoke but its like around 4.7 turns for the HSN and the LSN when I pinch the line it takes aorund 4 secodns to die out.

So now its stalling.

Afterburn1

My Feedback: (1)

Usually 3-5 seconds on the pinch test is good. Don't quote me on this but I would say if you are stalling, then turn your LSN out 1/16th of a turn.

aznherb36

ok. now I gatta wait since the spur gear is stripped[:-]

tommythecat

My Feedback: (2)

If you are stalling when you have it idling:
First increase the idle a wee bit, see if that helps. If not increase a bit more, see if that helps. Repeat until you have the idle up to where the clutch shoes want to engage (that means you've gone too far), so then back it off a little bit.

Then try leaning the lsn about 1/16th to 1/8th turn, see if that helps. If not, repeat. Keep in mind that as you lean the lsn you may need to back the idle stop screw out a hair, because leaning it will make it rev a bit higher at a given idle set.

I assume that this is a new motor that has already been properly broken in??? If its new, but has not been broken in, you need to go through the brake-in with factory settings before trying to set the idle or tune the LSN. If it is a used engine, then your idle issue may be realted to a worn piston and sleeve rather than carb settings. An engine will not idle good once the piston and sleeve are worn to or nearly to the point of needing replaced.

aznherb36

it was broken in. it had 1 gallon go through it already.

tommythecat

My Feedback: (2)

At one gallon, you should be able to get a nice idle, unless it was abused somehow. Try what I suggested above on turning up the idle and leaning out the low-end and let us know how it goes.

aznherb36

Ok. turning up idle is turning the screw clockwise or Counterclockwise?? The only big problem I had wit my engine was first having the temp go up to like 380 so I shut it off quickly. When I was playing with it it also went up to like 310 (when I coudlnt find out why the temp was so high even with the GH head. (was the hose). Other than that nothing was wrong. I never even held down full throttle and havent really drove Constantly in second gear

tommythecat

My Feedback: (2)

If you are going over 300 even with a GH head then you have a serious problem, either and airleak or a fuel line obstruction. With either, no ammount of tuning will fix it, you need to locate the leak or the obstruction and fix it, otherwise you will kill your P/S.

BTW:
turning the idle up = clockwise
turning the idle down = couterclockwise
leaning HSN or LSN = clockwise
richening HSN or LSN = counterclockwise

aznherb36

Oh, I found the problem last time i posted. I went over 300 before I got the GH head. now its cool.

Ok I ganna go try now

stilllost

My Feedback: (3)

once you get the idle set ditch the temp guage. put it and leaveit in the tool box. i have found that the 2.5r is easier to tune w/o a temp gauge.

things to look for tuning w/o a temp guage:

1. all ways start out rich.
2. good blue smoke. too much smoke and stalls/ boggs when taking off lean a bit make some good runs and repeat.
3. heavy smoke when you punch it from a stop, then smoke goes away lsn too rich/ high speed too lean
4.wont shift try leaning a bit till it does.
and thats it THE SECRET IS THE SMOKE ITS NOT THAT HARD

aznherb36

GOODY! I got it tuned with the stock pipe tho. Eww the difference between the THS and the stock is sooooo bad. I need to get my pipe fixed then it will fly!


Yea at first the smoke wasnt really heavy so I thought it wasnt right. i leaned it a little and the smoked was somewhat better. good thing you posted that the smoke isnt suppose to be massive. Now my temp is about 210-218.



Thanks to all of you