nason50028

new to the forum and need help i have a 2.5r that wasnt running for about 2 years with 1 year old gas that was stored in my basement which is kept warm all year long i put a new plug in it a tank of gas and it started right up... problem is now it isnt wanting to start brand new plugs with brand new fuel and brand new battery in my glow plug warmer. still not wanting to start at all and i just replaced the one way bearing.

kipstmaxx

your engine and fuel lines are prolly gumed up.

nason50028

but it started and ran perfectly fine the day before wich makes no sense to me and if i put my finger of the exaughst and pull my pullstart a couple times the fuel goes thre the line and into the carb it just wont start i even tried putting a lil down the carb to see if that was it and nuthing at all it didnt even sound like it wanted to start...

nason50028

come on guys i reall need to find this out. I would greatly appricate it if someone could tell me how to clean my fuel lines since someone said they where glogged up

matts6887

Actually, I highly doubt its the fuel lines that are clogged; but more than likely its actually the carb itself is probably gummed up with fuel residue, in turn preventing fuel from fully reaching the carb. I would carefully take the carb off(being sure not to lose the o-ring that sits under the carb neck in the process) and unscrew both the high speed needle and low speed needle completely out of the carb body; get some denatured alcohole, put it into a empty spray bottle and thoroughly douse the carb with denatured alcohol inside and out. Once u have done that let it dry completely, then re-assemble everything and try and see if it will fire. If not, post back here and we will go from there....

nason50028

alright thatnks

nason50028

is there anything else i can use besides dentured alachol

matts6887

Well, there kinda is, however; denatured alcohol is the best stuff to use to clean that gunk and stuff outta the carb....

nason50028

what else can i use i asked my dad and he said carb cleaner

TMaxxDriver

carb cleaner would probably work too... maybe even brake cleaner... anything like that..

matts6887

Well, like I said, carb cleaner will work for a regular "car" carbeurated engine; however, with a nitro engine u are much better off using den. alcohol....

dkastil

brake and carb cleaner eat o rings it is good to clean parts with no plastic or rubber like berrings ,denatured alcohol is a good thing to have it has many uses on your rc guys us it to clean there cars it is better then nitro blast and when you paint it is great for cleaning the body at my lhs the guy mixes it with water and sprays it threw a airbrush to clean cars , they sell it at any ACE or true value .

matts6887

Enuf said here in my book!....hence the reason I said to use denatured alcohol......[:-]

nason50028

im not tryin to undermind u or anything... no desrespect... but i was just wonder if carb cleaner would work

TMaxxDriver

Hey nason, in my opinion, use whatever you want... Whats the worse that will happen, i'm sure whatever you use will get it clean, and you can go from there... Worse case scenario is that it would eat the o-rings, but probably not just from a simple cleaning.

He (matt) was just giving his knowledge on something that would work well. If you don't happen to have any on hand, instead of going out and buying it, use whatever you have lying around... I'm sure it will do the trick! Good Luck my friend! [8D]

nason50028

bad news guys i took my eninge apart yesterday took off the back plate to look at my conrod and found a bunch of metal chunks looked at the piston and it looked like part of it broke off could this be caused by detionation... and i cleaned it out with brake cleaner put it back together and it still has compression it just wont fire up... does anyone have anyhting else i can try besides get a new P/S i am picking up a 3.3 t-maxx this weekend for 150 from my friend and if i cant ge *** up and running before i buy it im just going to drop the 3.3 in it and put a new P/S in my 2.5r and put it in the max and go from there with the maxx...

matts6887

From the sounds of things; it seems like u are just better off getting a new P/S/CR for that engine(the 2.5r) that has the metal chunks missing or broken off of it. I would just continue with the plans as well to drop the 3.3 in the new(used) maxx that u are getting.....

TMaxxDriver

+1 here... I would replace the P/S/CR also.. and sounds like you have a pretty good plan already... just go with that.

nason50028

well i got the 3.3 and man it was a pain to get started but after i reset the needles to fac. tuning it fired up ok... but my problem is this it has a unusally high idle and wants to creep forward im thinkin air leak where are the most common places on the 3.3 engine for air leaks so i can start checkin there and go from there

matts6887

Most common places for air leaks are usually around the base of the carb, near the area where the high speed needle screws into the brass fitting onto the base/hole of the carb, the sinch bolt that holds the carb on, the backplate gasket, and fuel tank and lines are some of not all of the places where air leaks can occur... however, before checking for air leaks; try richening the low speed needle 1/16 turn at a time and see if it helps any....

nason50028

idk its weird when i start it has a high idle but if i push the slide in it goes back to idealing fine i dont get it

matts6887

its possible that the throttle/brake linkage is not set up properly...check to make sure that when u let off the throttle/brake and its at idle that it does not move because if it does, then the linkage is probably off a little bit...

nason50028

well now it wants to ideal fine... confusing engine lol its runnnin really good and i know for a fact that the engine has under 2 gallons on it matter a fact i think its on its first gallon so it still coming alive