Delta 3

Is there any specific pattern to go by when applying the Flite Metal covering?

FliteMetal

Quote:

ORIGINAL: Bryan D

Is there any specific pattern to go by when applying the Flite Metal covering?

Pattern?

All aluminum has a grain invoked by the extrusion processes and calendaring to roll it down to precise thickness and temper. This leaves a grain direction. Depending on the documentation you gathered for your project before you begin finishing you follow what your docs show for a "pattern".

Natural finishes are typically accomplished best by alternating the grain direction between each panel placed onto the model. There is a temper differential for various panels on wings and nacelles. This will appear as a darker tint to the panel. Tinting is simple to accomplish and is discussed in the finishing section of the FM web site. You can use tea stains, rust stains, rusty water residue from a stable...that's Joe Grice's favorite source.

After you have completely covered the airframe the finishing begins. This is to prevent aluminum dust from contaminating the uncovered surface.

Polishing will compress the surface, compacting the grain to a higher temper. The 3M aluminum polishing system is an excellent product as it contributes to quick mirror quality finishes after you knock down the surface with 150, then work your way back to 600 through 200, 300, 400, wet. This doesn't require an awful lot of time.

The 3M and other aluminum polishing "system kits" provide a final chemical polishing compound which fills the aluminum "pour" to inhibit and disrupt the oxidation cycle. This reduces polishing...however it is recommended the entire airframe be shot with your favorite two part automotive crystal clear gloss coat to freeze the finish of your masterpiece so it won't oxidize...period. This is a micro thin flow-coat.

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Interesting Stuff Ed,I can't wait to get at it.I think I keep my cargo doors closed for now anyways cause I don't have a finished interior anyways to work with.Those 45's would be a good choice Bryan.

mulligan

If you are copying the scale panel pattern, then you need to research the full-scale. Some planes have panels that are butted to each other, so there is no overlap. Others have a stepped pattern in which panels overlap and there is a single line of rivets- in this case, the panels usually start in the rear of the fuselage/wing and progress forward with each panel overlapping the last (you can simply use a bit of common sense here- you want the air to flow over the overlaps, not under).

FliteMetal

Hi George:

You would be surprised at the number of shingled/overlap panel airframes with the overlap to the front. The last of a breed...the twin proped fighter from Grumman the F7F was overlapped both to the front and rear...

Our web site provides a complete how-to for application of both flush and overlapped panels, though it is more an element of the type of fidelity to scale you want to achieve. FAI is "0" inches, AMA is 15', TG is "0" inches and USSMA splits it all up and gets literally down to 3' for craftsmanship.

It all goes back to what you are using for your documentation. What detail level is the drawing you are using for reference? Does it simply show a panel line or does it show the multiple size rivet and panel styles actually used on the airframe...

One need not have to compete to be caught in a corner. Typically we'd not see someone trying to do an authentic overlap shingle at the scale of the these models with practical aluminum or for that matter red oxide filler shingles covered with aluminum. That is museum level detail and not a lot of fun for the majority of those who actually fly...

The panels are transferred to the surface with a Sharpie, from there 95% of our users would butt cut or lay each panel up flush to adjacent panels but at right angles to their grain.

Delta 3

This Info really helps, and I don't feel out of place the way ya'll describe these steps.
This being my first large aircraft it makes it much easier to get the help from ya'll.

Thanks for all the help!

I hope there is something I could help ya'll with, but it sounds like I am the under dog.

FliteMetal

We try to reduce the mis-information about replicating a natural aluminum finish. Its not that big a deal but reading what some people post would have it like pulling teeth from a mule... [X(]You simply start at the bottom rear and work your way up and across the airframe.

I'm always careful to explain as much as possible in terms which are familiar to most modelers...not just builders. Typically what happens is someone fails to read the instructions or goes off with some better idea and ends up with a mess.

This hobby is supposed to be fun, relaxing and entertaining. Usually following directions will assure it still is when one's project is complete

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Bryan:

Just a quick hint.

When you're fitting the panels, cut the shape first using thin cardboard, fit it, then use it as a cuttiing pattern for the aluminum sheet.

You will ruin some sheets, but a lot less waste this way.

Bill.

FliteMetal

The least amount of waste will come from using 3M Fine Line tape to tape off the perimeter of the panel drawn onto the aircraft surface, then the aluminum is applied within the perimeter, burnished down then using a curved blade hobby knife lubed with mineral spirits, draw the blade heel to toe toward you in a single pass along the perimeter of the 3M Fine Line tape to assure an accurate cut.

Lift excess with the perimeter Fine Line, burnish outward and lay down 3M Fine Line within the existing panel by 1/32 of an inch as an overlap which is in fact the space between the two panels when completed...you draw an old ball point pen down a straight edge atop the panel line overlap to mash the panel intersect into a single recessed line.

Everyone whom has used cardboard templates ends up with sizing and positioning issues eventually as the aluminum will stretch up to 25% of its area mass....growing so to speak. That's why its best to use the 3M Fine Line Tape around the panel drawing perimeter then cut the waste free, lifting the tape to leave the aluminum panel.

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Who sells 3M fine line tape Ed, drafting supply shops?Auto part shops?

FliteMetal

3M Fine Line Tape is the mauve green colored polymer hard edged tape...not the blue 3M Painters Tape.
3M Fine Line Tape is available at automotive paint suppliers and typically at most auto parts stores. The width I recommend acquiring is both the 1/4 and 1/8th inch wide.

3M Fine Line Tape will hang perfectly straight when cut free from the roll. It won't curl and can be layed directly on to the panel perimeter and remain straight without having to be held in place. When ready to adhere, a single pass of your index finger down the length of Fine Line will affix it to the model.

3M Fine Line Tape is a hard edged polymer providing the crisp hard edge against which you pass your hobby knife when cutting the waste from each panel.

Delta 3

When using the 3M tape do you allow for the Flite Metal to over lap the piece that is already laid or do you apply it just up to the edge of already laid piece.

FliteMetal

Typically its a 1/32 overlap. There are some jets which work well with taping right over the molded in panel line, then laying down a fresh 3MFL across the edge of the fresh cut and butt cutting the next piece of Flite-Metal however, this requires use of the curved hobby knife blade drawn heel to toe in one precise cut to end with a perfect intersect between the two panels. Its simpler to overlap it 1/32 then chase it with an old dry ball point pen down the 1/32 overlap intersect. I suggest reading our application instructions before beginning to apply aluminum of any grade to an airframe. We've explained the application in a simple process method to make this a simple activity.

Delta 3

Don't worry about this reply. You had already answered my question on the previous suggestions.

Thank you ScaleAreo-RCU

Delta 3

Do you apply the rivet application before the Flite Metal?

FliteMetal

No

smokebox12000

Hi Steve,
Good to see all the post coming through only wish i could contribute but you guys seem so knowledgeable about all things
DC-3 anyway another question{as usual}
going to buy a new TX and RX and just wondered what you would recommend.
Thanks in advance
Paul

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

I'm a Futaba guy ,I've always used them, but all the top manufacturers make great systems and would recomend them all.JR ,Airtronics,Hi-Tec.If money was no object I would get Futaba's new 14 channel radio.However right now I think I may get the Futaba 9CAF to replace my 4 year old 8UAP. The 9CA has a lot of nice new features but I especially like the 3 position flaps .
All you really need is a 6 channel but I would go for eight or nine anyways because you can always use those channels at a later time.You also need 7 hi-torque servos (at least a 100 oz) with metal gears preferably for the flying surfaces,and 2 regular for the throttles,and one mini for the retracts.Also I would go with a 6 volt system with a redundant battery backup,and voltage regulator.I use a lot of Hi-Tec servos like the 645mg,JR switches ....that help Paul?
...I'm just about ready to start the glassing process and glass the wings..man it seemed like I was sanding forever on this bird

smokebox12000

Hi Steve
thanks for the info very grateful to you
guess its about the best system we can afford
like you i do like Futaba so i think i will invest
in a FF9 You will have to let us know how you get on with the glassing i hate the job myself
I might look at alternatives Falcon Aviation
here the UK do something called SkinCrylic or
Phenolic Sheet it says it makes the model almost bulletproof.
Thanks Again
Paul

Delta 3

Does any one know were to find a good set of standard short ball allen wrenches?

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Bryan:

Go to your local auto supply. Cooper industries owns both Permatex and the Allen brands, most carry one if not both. Not in stock they can be ordered for you.

At your LHS they can get the Bondhus brand as well as Du-Bro, both have ball ended allen keys in their lines.

Bill.

Delta 3

Thank's for the info!

Delta 3

Hay Steve, how is the building going?

SteveD-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

I'm glassing my wings at this time,pretty boring time consuming stuff.Been really busy on the job and am also doing a painting of a Bellanca Scout on amphib Wipeline floats for a customer.Busy Busy...

Delta 3

Is there a certain direction to run your fiber glass strips, or do you just put it on any direction.