C160 transall build
04-05-2006, 02:07 PM
#76
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RE: C160 transall build
I WILL TAKE SOME MORE PICS AND EXPLAIN IN MORE DETAIL ON SATURDAY WHEN I'M OFF. BUT I CAN ANSWER A FEW QUESTIONS.
FIRST I BOUGHT THE B&D RETRACTS (82.99) FROM TOWER HOBBIES. SECOND THEY ARE PNEUMATIC. THE NOSE GEAR IS STOCK
EXCEPT I HAD TO SHORTEN IT. THE MAIN LANDING GEAR I HAD TO BUILD PARTIALLY FROM THE STOCK GEAR AND THE REST FROM
WHAT CAME WITH THE RETRACTS. SO SOME WELDING WAS REQUIRED. IF YOU CANT TELL IN THE PICTURE THE NOSE GEAR WAS MOUNTED BEHIND WHAT IS NORMALLY KNOWN AS THE FIREWALL. I ALSO RELOCATED THE ELEVATOR AND RUDDER SERVO. I'LL SHOW PICTURES OF THAT LATER. THANKS STAN
FIRST I BOUGHT THE B&D RETRACTS (82.99) FROM TOWER HOBBIES. SECOND THEY ARE PNEUMATIC. THE NOSE GEAR IS STOCK
EXCEPT I HAD TO SHORTEN IT. THE MAIN LANDING GEAR I HAD TO BUILD PARTIALLY FROM THE STOCK GEAR AND THE REST FROM
WHAT CAME WITH THE RETRACTS. SO SOME WELDING WAS REQUIRED. IF YOU CANT TELL IN THE PICTURE THE NOSE GEAR WAS MOUNTED BEHIND WHAT IS NORMALLY KNOWN AS THE FIREWALL. I ALSO RELOCATED THE ELEVATOR AND RUDDER SERVO. I'LL SHOW PICTURES OF THAT LATER. THANKS STAN
04-07-2006, 08:36 AM
#78
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RE: C160 transall build
Hi,
I was reading the post regarding Rudder throw. I disagree that a lot of ruuder throw will solve the problem in fact it will add another problem during take off should you have to correct the ground roll using rudder.
Also large deflection of rudder induces massive drag and on flat bottom wing with dihedral it will cuase the plane to roll in the direction of rudder input. Rudder input would be handy if the wing form was semi or fully simetrical section. in which case the rudder should make the plane yaw.
I am just building a C160 and the only thing I am going to be concerned with is to make sure that both engines are reliable and perform well. In other words dont try to save money by buying cheap engines or used ones or use one new one and other used.
In the case of one engine out I think the only thing that will save the plane is having enough height to reduce the thrust to minimal or tick over even better if you come in dead stick.
A gyro will not save the situation either, it will however buy you time to implement the above. I have had twin Mosquito loose an engine on me and the plane goes straight into a spin, I did have plenty of height around 300 feet and managed to cut the throttle and by the time it settled down it must have been only 20 feet from the ground and it crashed landed with only some damage.
In the full size aircraft it is different because the pilot can instantly feel/see which engine is out and correct it straight away. with a model you are relying on eye sight and hope that you have guessed right as to which engine is dead, It happens supper fast.
I was reading the post regarding Rudder throw. I disagree that a lot of ruuder throw will solve the problem in fact it will add another problem during take off should you have to correct the ground roll using rudder.
Also large deflection of rudder induces massive drag and on flat bottom wing with dihedral it will cuase the plane to roll in the direction of rudder input. Rudder input would be handy if the wing form was semi or fully simetrical section. in which case the rudder should make the plane yaw.
I am just building a C160 and the only thing I am going to be concerned with is to make sure that both engines are reliable and perform well. In other words dont try to save money by buying cheap engines or used ones or use one new one and other used.
In the case of one engine out I think the only thing that will save the plane is having enough height to reduce the thrust to minimal or tick over even better if you come in dead stick.
A gyro will not save the situation either, it will however buy you time to implement the above. I have had twin Mosquito loose an engine on me and the plane goes straight into a spin, I did have plenty of height around 300 feet and managed to cut the throttle and by the time it settled down it must have been only 20 feet from the ground and it crashed landed with only some damage.
In the full size aircraft it is different because the pilot can instantly feel/see which engine is out and correct it straight away. with a model you are relying on eye sight and hope that you have guessed right as to which engine is dead, It happens supper fast.
04-08-2006, 09:27 AM
#79
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RE: C160 transall build
HI!
I am Tor from NORWAY
I am building a C160 now, and i am having some qestions about it...
The smallest of the wing joiners have a recess in it what is that for?
The holes for the joiner is not drilled in either of the parts of the wing. Why is not this done?
I have heard that an engine out situation is a killer for this plane. What if i put a small spacer between the enginemounts and the firewalls to make the engines pull a bit against the fuselage. I think this will better an engine out situation since the force of the engine will be directed inwards instead of outwards...maby?
I am thankfull for all answers!!
I am Tor from NORWAY
I am building a C160 now, and i am having some qestions about it...
The smallest of the wing joiners have a recess in it what is that for?
The holes for the joiner is not drilled in either of the parts of the wing. Why is not this done?
I have heard that an engine out situation is a killer for this plane. What if i put a small spacer between the enginemounts and the firewalls to make the engines pull a bit against the fuselage. I think this will better an engine out situation since the force of the engine will be directed inwards instead of outwards...maby?
I am thankfull for all answers!!
04-08-2006, 03:30 PM
#80
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RE: C160 transall build
HELLO EVERYONE
THIS IS A PICTURE OF MY TRANSALL C-160 I PURCHASED ON EBAY FOR $160. I ALWAYS SAID IF I BOUGHT THIS PLANE THAT I WOULD PUT RETRACTS ON IT. THAT TURNED OUT TO BE ALOT HARDER THAN I THOUGHT. HOWEVER 2 WEEKS OF EVENINGS AND FINALLY I MANAGED TO MAKE SOMETHING THAT WOULD WORK. NOW IM GOING TO TRY AND SHOW HOW I DID IT SO EVERYONE CAN HAVE THE SAME OR EVEN ADD ON TO MY IDEAS AND MAKE IT BETTER.
THIS IS A PICTURE OF MY TRANSALL C-160 I PURCHASED ON EBAY FOR $160. I ALWAYS SAID IF I BOUGHT THIS PLANE THAT I WOULD PUT RETRACTS ON IT. THAT TURNED OUT TO BE ALOT HARDER THAN I THOUGHT. HOWEVER 2 WEEKS OF EVENINGS AND FINALLY I MANAGED TO MAKE SOMETHING THAT WOULD WORK. NOW IM GOING TO TRY AND SHOW HOW I DID IT SO EVERYONE CAN HAVE THE SAME OR EVEN ADD ON TO MY IDEAS AND MAKE IT BETTER.
04-08-2006, 03:41 PM
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RE: C160 transall build
THIS IS A PICTURE OF THE NOSE GEAR THROUGH THE ORIGINAL HOLE. AS YOU CAN SEE I NEEDED TO FILL IN THE HOLES IN THE ORIGINAL MOUNT. ON THE BACK SIDE (COULDNT GET A GOOD PICTURE) I ADDED WOOD AROUND THE ORIGINAL MOUNT TO MAKE A LEVEL SURFACE TO MOUNT TO. ONCE ALL MY GLUE CURED I MARKED THE HOLES AND DRILLED MY HOLES WITH A DREMEL TOOL. ITS THE ONLY THING I HAD SMALL ENOUGH TO FIT THROUGH THE FUSELAGE AND DRILL HEAD ON. A 1/8 IN GRIDER ON THE DREMEL TOOL ALSO WORKED GREAT FOR CUTTING OUT THE HOLE IN THE FUSELAGE TO FIT THE RETRACTS.
04-08-2006, 03:49 PM
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RE: C160 transall build
I WOULD RECOMMEND PUTTING THE AIRLINES ON FIRST BECAUSE THEY ARE DIFFICULT AFTERWARDS. I USED THE STOCK NOSE GEAR WIRE I JUST SHORTENED IT TO GET THE HEIGHT I DESIRED. ONCE I HAVE FIELD TESTED THE SYSTEM I AM GOING TO COVER THE ORIGINAL NOSEGEAR HOLE WITH FIBERGLASS.
04-08-2006, 04:00 PM
#83
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RE: C160 transall build
THIS IS A PICTURE OF THE INSIDE WITH THE RETRACTS DOWN. AS YOU CAN SEE I MOVED THE SERVOS TOWARDS THE REAR OF THE FUSELAGE. I CUT THE ORIGINAL SERVO MOUNTS OFF AND REUSED THEM. I EPOXIED THEM TO THE REAR FORMER AND BRACED THE FORMER WITH A 1"X 4" PIECE OF PLYWOOD DOWN THE CENTER OF THE FUSELAGE TO THE FORWARD FORMER. THAT ALSO GAVE SUPPORT TO THE SMALL PIECE OF FIBERGLASS LEFT AFTER CUTTING ROOM FOR THE RETRACTS. YOU CAN ALSO SEE WHERE I LOCATED THE SERVO AND THE RETRACT ACTUATOR.
04-08-2006, 04:09 PM
#84
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RE: C160 transall build
THIS IS THE MAIN RETRACT. I DID HAVE TO FILL IN A HOLE IN THE ORIGINAL MAIN MOUNT BUT AFTER THAT ALL I NEEDED TO DO WAS CUT THE HOLE FOR THE RETRACT.
04-08-2006, 04:15 PM
#85
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RE: C160 transall build
THE WHEEL MOUNT I HAD TO FABRICATE. JUST BASIC WELDING NOTHING FANCY. I MAY REDO THESE BECAUSE I MAY HAVE THE WHEELS TO CLOSE TOGETHER. WHEN THE WHEELS RETRACT THEY HIT THE RETRACT CYLANDER AND THEY WOULD GO A LITTLE DEEPER INTO THE FUSELAGE IF THEY DIDNT. I WILL PROBABLY NEED ALL THE ROOM I CAN GET WHEN I START WORKING ON THE RETRACT DOORS.
03-27-2007, 10:50 PM
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RE: C160 transall build
Wow, Loving the Retracts. I just ran across this Forum. Been hanging out on Transall Setup Forum, where myself and Capt Crackup have been. I did a light modification and rear hatch modification on mine. I have a modifications video, and we also posted some semi-formation flying of ours. Capt Crackup did his like Coast Guard, and mine is the Camo done with Turkish Air Force Stickers.
Check out the various videos on RCUVIDEOS. There is also some very important building hints on the Setup Forum. Just as a
peak to the site, here is my latest video I just posted. We are having an absolute ball with these planes. Just wanted to drop all a line
since I ran across you guys. Take Care, and Transall's Rule.
Hello All C160 guys again. Here is a new video that, along with the ones that Catp Crackup already posted that he and I
have done, should push anyone over the fence on these planes. We are having the best time with ours, and they
literally fly like trainers, and are one of the best looking planes we have ever seen in the air, and also love our LA .25's.
As you can see, I shoot right off the runway. I actually always hold it down for quite a while before lifting off.
Hope you all enjoy. Happy Flying.
http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video....95571af07a7eab
Check out the various videos on RCUVIDEOS. There is also some very important building hints on the Setup Forum. Just as a
peak to the site, here is my latest video I just posted. We are having an absolute ball with these planes. Just wanted to drop all a line
since I ran across you guys. Take Care, and Transall's Rule.
Hello All C160 guys again. Here is a new video that, along with the ones that Catp Crackup already posted that he and I
have done, should push anyone over the fence on these planes. We are having the best time with ours, and they
literally fly like trainers, and are one of the best looking planes we have ever seen in the air, and also love our LA .25's.
As you can see, I shoot right off the runway. I actually always hold it down for quite a while before lifting off.
Hope you all enjoy. Happy Flying.
http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video....95571af07a7eab
02-28-2009, 04:41 AM
#93
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RE: C160 transall build
Here is a link to a photo of the actual C-160 main mounts. Not like the C-130 main mount system I was expecting.
http://www.worldwide-military.com/Mi...fo_english.htm
If you have Photo Shop and can enlarge this, you may find an interesting project.
http://www.worldwide-military.com/Mi...fo_english.htm
If you have Photo Shop and can enlarge this, you may find an interesting project.
04-06-2009, 07:44 PM
#94
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RE: C160 transall build
Hello guys, I got my ARF from Willy Hobbies... I am having trouble with three things:
1. the nacelles are too small and servo is hitting, I am so tired of playing around it that I'll make some holes at the back of the nacelles to avoid this binding.... should I be fine or it would affect the flying?
2. I am attaching an image of my set up, look at the servo elevator, at the place where it is, the main rod for the elevator is a kind of transveral within the body and therefore, I am not having the same throw in each individual elevators, could anybody give me some feedbacks about what to do???? Some answers above this reply, there is a guy who posted a picture showing his retracts' installation and you can see that the servos of the elevator are almost at the center of the body, definetely different from mine, I wonder if it changes by ARF supplier or he actually chaged of position the servos....
3. I mounted the servos according to the manual (head of servo goes towards the tail), however, the rods are too short! unless I flip the servos (head of servo towards the ailerons) and put them in the opposite way (I have a mustang PTS and the aileron servos are mounted this way). So, I am not sure if the manual is wrong and the servos should be mounted just as my mustang pts (head of servo towards the aileron) or I should leave it that way and I should make longer rods.... suggestions????? what would be the difference if I make my own rods and leave the servos 'inverted' (the head of the servo is towards the tail)? I already installed everything and I do not feel like unscrewing servos and flipping them around.....
1. the nacelles are too small and servo is hitting, I am so tired of playing around it that I'll make some holes at the back of the nacelles to avoid this binding.... should I be fine or it would affect the flying?
2. I am attaching an image of my set up, look at the servo elevator, at the place where it is, the main rod for the elevator is a kind of transveral within the body and therefore, I am not having the same throw in each individual elevators, could anybody give me some feedbacks about what to do???? Some answers above this reply, there is a guy who posted a picture showing his retracts' installation and you can see that the servos of the elevator are almost at the center of the body, definetely different from mine, I wonder if it changes by ARF supplier or he actually chaged of position the servos....
3. I mounted the servos according to the manual (head of servo goes towards the tail), however, the rods are too short! unless I flip the servos (head of servo towards the ailerons) and put them in the opposite way (I have a mustang PTS and the aileron servos are mounted this way). So, I am not sure if the manual is wrong and the servos should be mounted just as my mustang pts (head of servo towards the aileron) or I should leave it that way and I should make longer rods.... suggestions????? what would be the difference if I make my own rods and leave the servos 'inverted' (the head of the servo is towards the tail)? I already installed everything and I do not feel like unscrewing servos and flipping them around.....
