david polley

Dear DVM 100,

Congratulations on the success of your first flights on you Mossi.[sm=teeth_smile.gif] It has to be just a big thrill for you. I bet you heart was pounding a mile a minute once you got her in the air. Ain't she a beauty? How about those cool high speed passes. Really gets the adrenalnin going don't it?[sm=tongue_smile.gif]

David

DVM100

Thank goodness for another electric...I thought I was being ignored here, lol.


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Thanks for your kind words David. It was an absolute thrill to see her flying. She ran down the strip at full speed "cannons" firing, and looked magnificent. I must say the Benedini sound system sounds great! I was exhausted when I got her safely on the strip again...looking forward to more flights. (two under the belt so far)


Waiting for some better spinners to arrive ...

Hans-Ole

Hi DVM100, and here is another electric........we are many flying "environment friendly" Mossies.

Here is a link to my Mossie, DZ383: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_20...tm.htm#8602903

And here you will also notice, that I'm using a Benedini TBS Micro sound unit, 2x40-watt amplifier
and 2 3 "speakers. Benedini has 4 "speakers, but they are too large for this 1:9 scale aircraft.

I will argue that the my DZ383 is the first Danish electric aircraft with engine sounds!
(Follow the link below, to heare the Merlin sound)

Photos/videos of the Virgin flight are available on Skive Model Flight Club website:

www.skive-modelflyveklub.dk
=> Billeder => Mosquito �Query� DZ383,
link: http://www.skive-modelflyveklub.dk/d...ri&kategori=64
=> Video => Mosquito �Query� DZ383
Link: http://www.skive-modelflyveklub.dk/d...eo&kategori=63
Here you can heare the Merlin motor sound!

DVM100

Hey Hans-Ole,

your Mossie looks terrific! Where did you put your speakers? I put the 4" ones in the bomb bay.

Neo gold

Guy's...did you use a standard servo on the retracts?...thanks.

DVM100

Not that this helps I'm afraid, but I pulled out the mechanical retracts and put Spring Airs in their place.

Hans-Ole

Hi Dave, please follow my link to my article, to see where I have placed the speakers (One in each gondola)

Smoky

Walter
I bought this very model from Nitro. (everything is metric)
you will have to get the online CMP manual (link posted here someplace), as the manual that comes with it is looks like a photo copy of a bad copy,
then use both manuals to assemble your Plane. you cannot assemble in a straight forward manner, you have to think your way through it, and dry fit everything.[&:]
You get what you pay for.. and in this case, the Nacelles don't fit very well, the fuselage doesn't line up with the wing, you have to do alot of re-engineering to get it right. So far i have went from excited, to frustrated, and now i just want to get her done.
I am sure there are better models out there, if you want a twin warbird, but the price will be alot higher.
I have just spent 5 days reading this whole thread!!! and double checking with all the posted pics. thanks to these wonderful guys here.
I just have to decide on a strut system now..
Rick.

Neo gold

What servo's did you all use for the stock retracts?....dedicated or std servo's?..
Thanks!

Smoky

The retracts I'm using, have a built in lock up/down so all I need is the standard servo.
I am building my own dual struts per wheel, for it. will post pictures later.
Smoky

tenajnodmot

Hi Guys,

Don Barker from New Zealand here
If you are using the CSM Pro Retracts for this kit please be aware they are too flimsy for anything other than the smoothest of landings on a nice flat strip.
They material the housings ( injection molded) are made of is a terrible quality and not really up to the job. They will collapse and break very easily with anything other than a gentle touch down. Please use a similar retract with metal extrusions if you want to avoid the gear folding on landing. The mossie needs flown in for landing with power on and if you cut the power on landing it will drop like a stone and bounce.
Regards.

DVM100

Hey Don,

Thanks for your input and you are so right! We have a synthetic grass strip and mine came in very hot indeed - just like the full size! I've ditched the kit gear and used Spring Air which are much better I reckon. Dave

Carlos G

Hi All,

I have been watching this thread and I am considering purchasing this arf. I have noticed that the Mossie arf does not have the correct dihedral in the outer wing panels. I have looked at several pictures of full size Mossies and the out wing panels are all slightly up at the tips. The models pictured here in the threads all seem to show level outer wings panels like a B25 bomber. Is there any way to correct this difference in the arf or is everybody just "Living with it"? To me anyway the arf mossie just doesn't look quite right with the straight outer wing panels.

Thanks for your help

Carlos G.

tenajnodmot

Hi carlos. The only way you will get what you want is to scratch build one. I am well into building the Brian Taylor 81" Use the CMP version as an easy introduction into flying hot twins just as most of us seem to be doing. I just wish there was a really good ARF available. My skill is in the flying and not the building.
Don

tenajnodmot

Thanks buddy. What retracts did you end up using?
Don

david polley

All

Well, the 50th anniversary GCRCC Air Circus is now history, and I am afraid I am a "casulaty of war" as on Sunday I had a pretty nasty landing and hit the ground pretty hard cracking the wing (my third) and busting out the landing gear.[&o]

I survived Saturday's event though. We were flying up to 20 models during the Normandy Invasion event. Man what an adrenalin rush I have got to tell you. It was absolutely awsome. You need to to the website www.gcrcc.net and check out the videos of some of the events. There are estimates of having over 9000 people attending the Flying Circus during the weekend. Final results will be coming later this month.

The mossie did realy well and I kept pace with the P-51's P-47's P-38's P-40's and so on. Saturday brought her in on a dime in the middle of the runway. Sunday we had a 20 mph cross wind and lucky for me the takiway at the airport is about 100 feet wide and as I started my take off run I kept her on the ground long enough just keep up the speed to go from the right side of the runway and clearing the grass on the left side. I had full right rudder, but the cross wind kept pulling her to the left side until I had enough air speed to get control over the model and lift her off the ground. I pulled out and circled over the north side of the air field until the other 19 models got closer to the pattern, and then I dove right in and was in the middle of the pack.

I will take credit for blowing the water tower. Cool stuff. I must have made about 6 or 7 passes at the recreated war zone we built up, and I was just having a blast. All 20 of us were really tight and we would dive down and come in low over the runway together maybe going 80 to 90 mph, then make a quick sharp banking turn to the left and start our bombing run. They were shooting all kinds of firework shells and blowing up buildings and and things. It is so neat to be part of it all. I was just having a blast.

As I approached the 8 minute mark, I felt maybe a good time to come in would be before the other 19 guys starting making their approaches. I came across the field and was kind of coming out of the north east corner of the airport to try and keep the wind under the wing long enough to then turn into the runway at the last minute and set her down ahead of everybody else. I tried keeping up the speed, but the winds were coming as a direct crosswind and took the air from under the wing and she just stopped flying and dropped from about 25 feet on to the right side of the runway in the grass. The grass was as hard as concrete. (We have had no real rain in our area for over a month now).

Alas, another cracked up wing that I suppose I could repair, but I beleive would take longer than just purchasing a new model and starting over with a new wing. The fusealage, canopy, and rudder had no damage at all. I can keep all of that and just build up and add the new wing when I get it finished. I just need the funds to buy another CMP mossi kit. I see that they are back in stock and are going for @235.00 plus shipping.

Will I buy another? I have to admit I shouldn't but I just love this model, (I still don't like the way it is put together, but we will see if they have made any new improvements, and I will build on what I have done to this point.) and I especially love to see her fly. It really has "presence" and is great conversation piece for my modeling friends and visitors at the field. I was doing so well with it too, and flying her a bunch before the Air Circus.

Like I said, the fuselage is mint and I will not have to do anything but add the new wing to it once it is completed. I am thinking of upgrading the O.S. 40SF engines to a pair of O.S. 46SF engines so I can go to an 11 x 5 prop instead of using the 10 x 5. The 10 x 5 props perform real well, but they still look to small compaired to the rest of model. I am going with the O.S. 46SF engines because they will drop right into the existing motor mounts I have and since both nacells are ok, I wont't have to go through having to carve out another set of nacells with the old dremel tool. (Man that was a real pain having to custom cut around the engines and all) I will keep folks posted with new improvements as I go and let you know about anything new they have done to improve the kit when I get it.[8D]

I also want to see about adding some carved and painted pieces of leading edge stock and adding it to the leading edge of the wing between the nacells and the fuselage. (Photo enclosed);

Those areas are flat as you can see, and I am wondering if placing a true rounded leading edge in that area on each side of the wing would improve stability on landings especially. Thoughts and comments are appreciated. These flat spots could be why the model tends to drop out on the landing approach as the model slows down in air speed. It is a guess only.

What do you guys think aboput that?[sm=71_71.gif]

Take Care

David

Smoky

David:
Sorry to hear about your Mossies Demise. However it sounds like you had a blast flying her.
It is not just the Mossie but almost all twin engine Models will drop like a rock when you lose air speed, or just throttle back too much suddenly. It seems that the wind the prop's make over the wing, help keep her up. go figure.

Mine is still in the building stage, just finished sanding out one Nacelle for the Exhaust to fit,, what a pain! I built working dual struts with one inch of travel, but now have to configure some working doors for the retracts as I would have too big of an opening just cutting them out. I am leaning toward the spring loaded hinges to open and a cable across the doors that the retract will pull into the nacelle and close the doors after themselves on the way up.

How much control throws did you dial in? my plans (General hobbies) and the CMP plans have a difference of 5 MM on all throws. and how sensitive is this bird to inputs?
I am flying this one with OS 40 FP's, (I got from Mr William Robison from here on these forums). swinging MAS 10 x 6 props, and 2 3/4" true turn P51 rounded spinners.
I Mounted the Engines as far forward as possible to help with the counter weight issue. i will post the finished weight when she is complete.
Thanks.
Rick.

david polley

Dear Smokey,

I think the most important control is that you have the maximum rudder throw you can put into the model to overcome the thrust of the two engines pulling the model to the left on take off runs. I also recommend a digital servo for the rudder control. It will stay where you put it and not bend back on take off runs. All of the other throws that CMP recommended I went with which made the model fly just fine for starting out. I ended up putting more up elevator throw later to offset the model dropping out, and more aileron throw which really helped in turns with the twin engines.
When I used the flaps, I found that 15 to 20 degrees of flap stabilized the model on landings, but did not effect the elevator setting so much that I had to push down on the elevator to keep her level.

Center of Gravity is crucial. Make sure you balance the model per your General Hobby Plans, and then consider making it a bit more nose heavy just to be safe. A little nose heavy is ok on this bird, but just a little tail heavy can cause real problems.

The CMP plans were off 5mm. I ended up placing the CG at 110 mm set up between the fuselage and the nacells. This required adding almost a pound of weight to the nose to get the model to balance at the 110 mm point.

At 115 mm per the CMP plans, the model was still too tail heavy and made it difficult to fly the model. I crashed my first model with the CG set at 118 mm. CMP said the CG point was between 115 and 120 mm, but the model just kept climbing, and it rolled over after stalling and that was all she wrote. At 110 she flew very smoothly. Because the Mosquito has such a long fuselage, it takes very little weight in the tail to cause problems. Been there and done that.

Good luck on the working doors

stuntflyr

Those 46 SF's are real torquers and one great benefit of that, that I can think of, is allowing the use of 11 or even 12 inch three bladed propellers.

I think adding a shaped leading edge to the wing in between the nacelles and fuse would be a great idea.

I have spoken to a few full sized Mosquito pilots and owners through the years about the airplane's handling. One Gordon Sweetapple told me that the late Neil Williams flew his Mk35 in the movie Mosquito Squadron and in several displays thereafter. One time Gordon wanted some inflight photos of the Mossie and Neil asked if Gordon's Twin Comanche photo plane could maintain 200 kts. When Gordon told him no, Neil figured out how he could fly the Mosquito at a minimum of 200 kts and give the photo ship as much side by side time as possible for pictures.
I was impressed that the great Neil Williams was not going to fly the airplane slower than 200 kts, and even at low power at altitude, because of the airplane's single engine handling. It must be wicked.

This is borne out in the horror show that is the end of RR299, seen on You Tube if one looks up "Mosquito crash".

One's only hope when losing an engine on these types is to close the throttle on the good engine to idle and when wings level and gliding, pick a point ahead to land, open the throttle after cleaning up the failed engine and propeller, and then see how much power one can add without losing directional control. This might stretch the glide.

For modelers, high speed is the only hope.

Chris...

Smoky

No photo's yet,, but this thing took 21.5 OZ of lead in the Nose to balance at 110 mm! that seems excessive, it feels like it doubles the weight of this plane!
It will make one awesome lawn dart tho! haha.
The battery is strapped right up against the front firewall just behind the weights which are in the front clear nose piece. I hope the twin OS 40's swinging 10x6 MAS props at 17000 RPM will be enough. this one weights in at about the same as the CMP models do, but with a lot more headaches than it was worth.
If you want to fly a Mossy? I do NOT recommend this one. rather spend the extra and get the CMP or build one from scratch. as you pretty much have to re engineer most of this anyway. and there is next to no instructions.
On the upside, the sound of those twin 40's running in sinc as you climb through the RPM range is still amazing to hear. Now all I need is some nice weather and more guts and I'll be able to fly it.
Meanwhile i will continue to fly the twinstar and build nerve and practice.
Rick

david polley

Dear Smokey,

I just want to make clear here that the 110 CM Balance point was for the CMP Mosquito Kit. I do not know anything about your General Hobbies Kit. It could very well be that the General Hobbies CG is correct on your model plans. I can only recommend the 110 mm point on the CMP version.

21 ounces seems excessive to me as well only in that it took me about 16 ounces of weight to bring the CMP unit to the 110 mm balance point. I would encourage that you balance your model to the General Hobbies recommended CG point and then add a just a tiny bit more to make it a tad nose heavier then the General Hobbies version kit suggested. This would be a good starting point.

Something else you have to see here is that the CPM version had two flat spots between the nacells and the fuselage where I balanced the model. (See photo) There are no rounded leading edges in these spots which may suggest why the CMP model balance point is not correct on the plans. They were using different points of measure to balance the model verses how I balance the model with a CG machine. Please respond in that you did receive this message before you fly....[:-]

Take Care

David

Smoky

Dave this is what i got, as you can see this model has the same flat spots, in fact it is almost Identical, except that the total wing is built up Ply and Balsa.
The only glass is the fuse, Nacelles, canopy, belly pan, Engine cowls and nose cone. don't mind the clutter in the back ground. haha.
The book from General states to balance it at 130 to 135 MM from the leading edge. i prefer nose heavy to start and then lighten it up to get more responsive later. i appreciate the warning.
Rick.

Smoky

Also i am running 2 3/4 inch P51 rounded spinners instead of the 3 inch. I figured i would not have enough prop sticking out of the larger spinners to do the job right.
I also still have a lot of cosmetic clean up to do. but wanted to fly it first as this may be for naught, as i may do some cutting here and building there, I still havn't put the Nacelle doors on. I also elected NOT to use the stupid Nose art that came with it, Nor the "Royal navy" stickers as neither one of these was on the original.
Just a thought,, IF i did go to a 3 inch spinner, theoretically i should be able to swing a larger prop as it will be enclosed for the inside 1/3 of the prop.
these are 10X6 MAS and can swing them at 17,200 RPM standing still. i wonder if i could go to an 11X6 with the 3 inch spinners? i could use some input on this decision guys. thanks.

Hot Rod Todd

My Feedback: (1)

Don't worry about how much prop is under the large spinner, it has been proven that performance will not suffer. I have seen planes with only 1/2" of the prop clearing the cowl, and they still fly great. Since I have two OS .46AX's on my mossie, I get to run a bit larger prop. 11X7 Master Airscrews seem to work the best.

Hot Rod Todd

My Feedback: (1)

Smoky, I forgot to mention that I believe you will like 11X6 props better anyway. Normally I would run an 11X6 on a .46AX, but with the twin they seem to help each other out and unload significantly in the air. Not only does the plane perform better with more prop (11X7), but the engines are happier with a bit of load on them. Spinning the engines too fast can make it difficult to get a good needle setting. The spinner vs. prop size is not really an issue, but I think you'll like the performance better if you get some load on the engines.