Finally getting ready to start my winter project.
Lots of stuff on this plane here but wondering about what landing gear to use. Gonna be retracts just not sure what ones. Probably trike but tail dragger might be ok too.
Any idea's or tips regarding this?
Gonna use AX.46's for power.

I have Hobbico mechanical mains and a Robart mechanical in the nose. I recommend making your mains longer then what the Pica plans show. If you build it per the plans you will have some prop clearance issues using a 10" prop on the 46's.

I moved my nacelles in one bay to reduce the engine separation, that reduced prop clearance even more. I ended up with less than 2" of prop clearance and one fatefull day shattered a prop on take off, but that's another story...

My new fuselage is just about finished and I have modified the wing with longer mains so I won't have the landing gear excuse next time. The longer gear will work better as I'm flying off grass now.

It's an awesome flying plane, I have TT pro 46s...can't wait to fly it again!!

Here's a pic with the modification of the mains in progress. The balsa replaced the original hole per the Pica plans. The new hole is per the Mark II Dave Platt plans.

Have you ever tried to fly a tail dragger twin?????? Dave would not be happy!

Kirk:

If it's your first twin, stay with the "Kiddie Kar" wheels. The Duellist can be flown as a tail dragger, but a first twin has enough other things that will be new to you.

If you want to bother with them, mechanical retracts can be installed for little more than pennies until you buy a retract servo, and after the plane is finished every time you connect the linkage to the nose gear you will curse for not having used air retracts. Or you will buy TWO retract servos. Heavier. Weight you don't need.

Tower sells the complete B&D air trike retract kit for about $80, add $30 more for an air pump, and that's just a little more than two retract servos. And a whole lot lighter.

Tim mentioned Dave Platt's second version, the Duellist Mk II. There are several improvements in the Mk II, not the least of which is setting the wing and stab at zero incidence, and the engine thrust line at 0-0-0. These changes are easy to incorporate in the original version if done during construction.

The most obvious difference is the vertical fin and rudder, making the Mk II much better in the knife edge. Attached are pictures of both drawings.

A final note: In spite of the Pica supplied plan crediting Morton Tanger as the designer, he was not. It's Dave Platt's design from start to finish. Even the "Super Duellist 2/60 Mk II" I was involved with last year is still 90% Dave Platt's design.

Bill.

Kit version on the left, Mk II on the right. wr.

Thanks Will. I hadn't thought about the extra takeoff problems that can arise with a twin. All my current planes are tail draggers but no twins. I also must have the MK II as the rudder is the same as the one on the left if your photo.
I will look into the Tower Hobbies gear as the Robarts may be a little too pricey up here in the Great White North.
I suppose to cure any clearance problems I could move the gear out one bay and make the legs longer. So long as the wing is strong enough. Did you fibreglass the entire plane? Is it required?
Thanks to all for your input.

Kirk:

If you're an old hand at tail draggers, go ahead with the Duellist as a tail dragger. It's just that first twin and first tail dragger at the same time isn't a great idea.

Yours is the original (Mk I) if it matches my left illustration.

Prop clearance isn't the mains - it's the nose gear. Put the retract unit as low as you can in the front, make the wheel just touch the leading edge of the wing as it retracts. When you do the mains have the wheels spaced only far enough to keep from having to cut the root rib for clearance. These changes are all part of the Mk II, Pica never added them to the kit version.

You can glass the whole plane and paint it, paint it without glassing anything but the wing joint, or use a film covering. They've been done just about any way you can think of, done with care any finish is fine.

Bill.

Thanks again, and I meant the picture on the other left. Just to the right of the first left.

Kirk

Hi Kirknik,

My Duellist is a taildragger and uses those Hobbico mechanicals for the main gear. Tail wheel is not retractable.
I put my retracts in the nacelles, retracting rearwards. This increased the distance between the mains considerably, helps with ground handling.
Note that with the Hobbico units you could easily be operating them at/near their max rated model weight, which considerably increases the wear/tear on the pivots, bushings and limit stops. I use 1-1/2" long 5/32" music wire to connect Robart Robo-Struts to the retracts. The 1-1/2" long wire is easy to replace when they get bent on those heavy handed landings.

Cheers,
-E