alans

Could I ask some of you experts for some advice please

The Instructions show a picture balancing the CG with the wheels down (extended) is this correct, also I have read the instructions front to back on the twinsync. The power for the main PCB board must come from the reciever battery, am i right.
Thanks
Alan

boingram

....yes on the TwinSync question..

Bo

DAN AVILLA

My Feedback: (12)

I just finished the scale nose gear doors. They are full length and use Tams offset hinges with BVM rams. The nice thing about the Tam hinge is you can add tension to it and it will stay were you want. You can put the hinge at 90% and place it on out side of fuse. Then drill the mounting holes. I will try to attach pictures. It has been a while since I did. Dan Avilla

boingram

Dan...that's nice. How much weight did this add and what valve are you using?

Are you going to do the mains?

BTW...I painted the wheels chromate green and that looks nice.

Bo

DAN AVILLA

My Feedback: (12)

Bo I decided to make it simple. I'm useing a micro air switch on the retract servo. The main doors will be open when the gear is down. I just Tee in to the retract pressure to open the doors. Then Tee in to the up pressure to the micro switch. I will set the retract channell to go real slow so it gives time for the gear retract. I have the same system in my BVM bandit ant it works great. I'm working on the main doors now but having problems with the ram angles. Dan

boingram

Dan...thanks....interesting.

I have not had too much luck getting pneumatic retracts to cycle realistically. I'm using the speced Robarts. What's the secret? Also, using a Multiplex EVO 12 and can slow the rertract servo down to 4 seconds.

BTW...I'm using the Intairco pneumatic brakes and the Twinsync. The brakes are wonderful, but I can't get the Twinsync to work correctly.

Bo

DAN AVILLA

My Feedback: (12)

Bo getting pneumatic retracts to cycle realistically is jus a mater of adding restricters. I use the ones robart sells and have used a wheel collar on the air line. Dan

boingram

Yes, I do that also, but they still go "THUNK"!!!!

I go back to the old days of Kraft/Multicon electrics. Have you seen the new LADO electric cyclinders for big Robarts?

Bo

DAN AVILLA

My Feedback: (12)

Bo I just checked them out. Many years ago I had the kraft ones and liked them. I will think about them on my next project. Thanks Dan

uri

Hi,
Did any one try to install the spring open retracts from robart?
I'm considering doing so and would like to get some advices.
Also, what is the spec of the cessna 310 gear -
strut width, strut length (hight)m, the openning angle?

Thanks,

kochj

I am just going on a hunch here, but I think a big part of cycling of a gear is the quality of the retracts..... I will be putting in the sierragiant retracts and I know they have bigger valves and clylinders ect on there retracts and I am hopping that these can be actuated slowly and still open and close lock to lock w/o jamming up. I have Robarts on my GIant P-51 and they will not wrok well unless I put the PSI up to 100+lbs otherwise they are *****y 2-3 cycles before they stop locking up and down. I can get abotu 6 good cycles and they go "cluck" Clunck" or they will not work at all with slow cycling...
A regulater may help too...
I will let you know my findings.
ALso, why hasn't the Twinsync worked for you?
Justin

kochj

I would go with what is made for the plane, buy the SIeraGiant gear, you will not be dissapointed..

boingram

Justin,

If I pump my Robarts up to 100#, I get about one cycle per five # of pressure lost. They cycle fine down to 50#.

I don't know why I can't get the TS to work....I really haven't played with it enough, perhaps.

Bo

boingram

I found the speced Robarts to be just fine. Replaced theur notoriously leaky tees with McMaster-Carr tees. I'm also running brakes.

Bo

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

have any of the e conversions flown? im thinking we will be nose heavy due to the wt of the batts. e conv. may have to get the 2 lbs of lead out of the nose, just cut a small section of the nose on the bottom and dig ot out. when balanced replace the piece. Putty sand and paint

jaycam

Has anyone used the Robart brass tees and do they work as well or better than the Mcmaster Carr Tees, which I'm using now. I recently flew my 310 five times in one day without a hitch but noticed that my pump gauge shows some leaking occassionally throughout the day. It was quite hot but I don't know if that would have anything to do with it. thanks

alans

Almost ready to fly the 310, taken 2 llbs of weight out the nose and with the battery's up the front the balance is spot on. Just got to iron out the twinsinc and i am almost done.
One problem i am having is making sure the push pull wires for the nose wheel (Robart retracts) does not catch against the body/joining pin. If this happens the leg will not extend and i don't want this to happen in flight. Anyone had this problem.

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

my wires caused horrible interference so i used dial cord. i can see what you mean maybe a spring on each side??

MMallory

My Feedback: (1)

I wrapped the retract unit in electric tape. The wire no longer catch the pin.

Mark

R/C Foolish

My Feedback: (6)

Do you use the knurled retainers on the regular fittings or just push on your hoses. I tighten all of my valve fittings with the knurled screw. No air leakage at all.

R/C Foolish

MMallory

My Feedback: (1)

I use all of the above and sometimes wire to retain the lines. On this plane just push on.

R/C Foolish

My Feedback: (6)

That's were your leaks are coming from.

R/C Foolish

MMallory

My Feedback: (1)

I don't have leaks. You must have meant to direct your post to a specific person.

Mark M.

boingram

I have the Robart retracts with the full air package. In addition, I'm running Intairco brakes and the proportional valve. Lots of places to leak. I make sure that I cut all air lines at 90-degrees before hooking them up. Using McMaster-Carr teels. Lots of places for leaks.

When pumped to 100#, over a period of 24-hours, the system will leak down 10-15#. I find that acceptabable.

Remember, the system can leak in many places besides the fittings. The cyclinders can leak, the brakes, etc.

Bo

kochj

THis is a problem with any push pull retractable gear.
This can be easily remideed by usning a pai of springs on both sides to keep the wheel straight when retracted and no presure on the wires.
look at the pict this should help//
Justin

By the way It was a sad day for me....
I returned the Cesan 310 on Sat because the fuse had to many defects in it. From inadequate molding joining to patching that was not fixed properly or sprayied right. THe topper was the Vert Stab that had a indentation....
I think I will wait until the TF b-25 comes out in the fall. As I do not have the time to build right now anyway.