I just bought a C 160 off e-bay for 138.00 total.....I am really looking forward to building it. Do any of you guys have any advice about this plane........Any help would be appreciated. Skip D

CAPT
I have a 160 Transall, a really nice airplane but i do not use the covers for the nacelles, if interested in them send me 10 dollars just to pay the postage and i will mail them to you also if there is any change left it will also be in the boc with the nacelle covers, they have never been used, rollie

Skip, the C-160 is a nice flying twin. There are 2 of them flying in our club. Both of us are using OS 25 LA's for power and they are more than enough. We fly from a grass strip and the take off roll is about 200 ft. The Instructions that come with the kit are a bit sparse, so read them a few times to get familiar with the terms they use. Our kits have the balsa skinned foam wings, a neat trick for mounting the nacelle covers is to use a short pieces of the yellow inner part of a Ny-Rod as a anchor in the foam. I drilled the holes in the nacelle flanges and used them to mark the location on the wings. I used Elmers Poly-bond( same as GorillaGlue) for glue. Just drill the foam wing and take a toothpick and dip it in the glue then insert in the wing holes to insert the glue. Then spray a little water on the area of the holes to set off the glue and insert the short Ny-Rod pieces in the holes. After the glue dries trim the Ny-rod off flush and Use the little screws that came with the kit to hold the nacelle covers on. They work out if ya just screw them in the balsa skins. It takes a little work to get the fuel tanks and Throttle servos in. I used micro servos for the foam park flyers on my throttles. There is no load on a throttle arm so they work nicely there. Just set them up as close as you can to being mechanically identical. A Y- harness servo lead connects them to the Throttle ch on the rec. Mine blances where the plans call for. I did however change the metric nylon wing bolts for 10-32's as its easier to find them at the LHS. The nose gear axle that comes with the kit is cheesy, I replaced mine with a dual nose gear axle from Tower Hobbies.

As for flying it flys like a trainer. Almost too easy. Just set up your Engines to run as close to the same RPM as you can. Detune the fastest one to match the slowest running one. A few hundred rpm difference is nothing to worry about. Make sure they both run reliable at all throttle postions is tha main thing. ALWAYS do a run up test on them Hold the nose up and go from low to hi a few times to make sure the engines run RELIABLE. Like i said Mine has 2 OS 25LA's tuning 9x4 APC's. after takeoff I fly at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, full throttle is just tooo fast for scale looks.

Any other questions you should do a search in RCU for more C-160 threads.

Pete

Pete, Thanks for the reply.........I have heard that the C 160 flies very nose heavy and should balance @ 85 ish mm???????? Do you have to fly with alot of up trim in elevator? Did you use the stock rudder and elevator push rods?....... I am planning on using OS FX 25s with 10 x 4 props. What do you think? Thanks in advance. Skip D

I used two OS-32SX engines on my C-160 and they really run nice and it does the nicest loop and it is more of a trainer then a twin it does handle nice but the cream and white colors on the wings are very hard to see so i put some red paint on the leading edge and i covered the bottom of the wing with yellow and checks as it was easy to see the plane but the wing is another story so i put a little color under my wing to see it a little better, right now i am flying my lt-25 also with a OS-32SX and it to gets off the snow in no time and i usually run it a little over half throttle

Pilot727, I am planning on doing the C 160 in Coast Guard Colors...Hopefully it'll be easy to see. What size props do you run? and where did you balance yours? Also what did you do for side thrust on the engines? Thanks Skip D

Mine balanced right where the plans call for I put a piece of velcro in the front of the fuse to stick the battery pack on I just kept moving the pack until it balanced. My trim is at neutral elevator. I guess the larger engines some guys are using make it nose heavyish. The OS 32's should work fine I just used the OS 25 LA's because another member in the club had them on his and I flew so nicely. Just keep in mind that the larger the egine you install the more fuel is used and the tank area is limited by the nacelles.. Hence the post for selling nacelles, With mine the tanks that came with it give me about a 10 minute run and I fly at 1/2 to 3/4 so I havent sucked the tanks dry yet, knock on wood.

Mine is all white with grey covering on the bottom US NAVY scheme. I havent had any problems seeing it in flight yet. As for the other guy who said he looped, and rolled his C-160, I too have done that and the 25's are plenty for that kinda stuff but not many scale C-160's do that and survive. I'm the kinda guy that flys the model like the real ones. If its a scale transport then fly it like one if its a scale CAP 232 then wring it out. I have all kinds of different planes and fly them accordingly , most of the time. Like I said I looped and rolled the C-160 just to see if it would and it does very nicely but I dont fly it that way all the time. At full throttle its really to fast to look scale. One of the neastest things it does is scale looking takeoffs and landings.. Once you get the feel for it you can hold the nose off the runway on take off and landing. Really looks cool. One other thing Its not really a windy weather plane. Its really light and trends to bounce around a lot when the wind gets it.

Have fun with it it flys great. Just make sure the engines run like sewing machines all the time.

Pete

I agree with you pete, i fly mine also like a real plane, i hate nothing more to see a beautiful scale plane taxing down the runway fast of reved up, i do enjoy looping mine but like you said it is not a plane that looks good in a roll although i also tried it and had no problem and also i put my battery in the front and everything balanced perfect, and you are so right about the wind and where i fly there is always a cross wind most of the time, just got to drop that wing or try to get into the wind head on as much as possible but it handles the wind just fine, rollie

im glad for you posting this because i just ordered a white electric transall c160 from www.nitroplanes.com and it hasent arrived but im wondering if its any good?.....
[&:]

RCS
I just checked at NP and they have a sold out sign on the 160 transall , i live in utah so i always use a larger engine thn called for due to the altitude here, i used two OS-32SX and i could not have been more happy, it balanced great and i also put a 2700 battery in the front so mine was not heavy in the front at all and it flies very nice and i leave the runway in about 50 fee or less and with a little larger engine i pull my power back to where it flies the very best and landing i just use a little power and land on the back wheels wih the nose high in the air, it is a really nice airplane, i also just bought the phoenix and i am using two YS-110 engines for power and i have not balenced it yet but i can tell that is is going to be very close if not right on, the c-160 i think i am using 9x6 or 9x8 i like to try different props, i balenced it where the instructions said to and it came out great a little tail heavy and that i why i put a good sized battery in the front and it came out just great,

Hey Pilot 727, Where did you balance yours???????? Skip D

Capt.
I built it so long ago i have no idea where the balance point is but it is in your book i still have my book but i have not the time to go through it as you to have the book it is in here, but i do remember how nice it balenced and how great it flies, rollie

Hey Pilot 727, Yeah, I have the book.. The reason I asked is because obviously you were successful inflying yours. Alot of others are saying that the Transall is way to nose heavy and should be balanced at 85 ish mm. I think the book says 65-72 mm. Does yours fly with alot of "up trim"? Thanks. Skip D

My ele is even with the stab and my radio it shows it is centered and i have lots of ele, i never had a problem from the beginning i will now look through my book to see if i can find anything to help you out, rollie

Mine is not assembled yet, so I dug it out. Looking at my fuselage, the trailing edge of the horizontal stab has to be raised about 1/8 - 3/16 " to make the stab parallel with the wing. From what I have gathered from this forum, I should raise it?
Skip D

Capt
When i epoxied my wing togther three piece wing one end of the wing some how dropped a little, it is hard to see and does have no effect on it's flying but it made me mad, i am not a builder but i have built many big sticks super sticks them are so easy but when it comes to an extra 300 i like to have some one watch me to make sure i make no mistakes, i built the seawind by myself and made a few small mistakes on it but that is how you learn, these guys that build scratch and or a kit are great builders i wished i had the chance to watch them in action, i have a couple of friends that are great builders and i watch them when i can. good luck

Hey to all C 160 pilots, I think I'm beginning to see that the C 160 needs to be kept as light as possible????? I like to think that I am very experienced in single engine airplanes, and quite experienced with a Twinstar. My Twinstar weights 6.24 lbs and flies & lands awesome. Like other heavy birds, it likes power on final. I make sure that it is high so that it's coming "down hill" on final. Then I use power to set/control the glide path/decent rate. Once off the runway threshold, I reduce power a couple of clicks and "flatten" the decent using elevator. At abot 18 - 20 inches I chop the power and begin flare. Works great every time. Can I expect this with the C 160?

Oh by the way, from what I have read, it appears that the FX 25s are way to much power. So I have OS LA 25s on order. Hopefully will get going soon. Thanks again. Skip D

I run two OS-25SX on my twinstar and it is everything i want and more i like the extra, it runs great and them fx are such nice running engines, i had 32sx on it but i put them onto the c-160 and i bought two of the 25fx and i would not have gone any other way i mean you pay about the same price why not get a little more power but i am sure that either of the engines are nice on the twinstar i like that as they are light and run great. rollie

Well, I cut out the fuse so I can correct the incidence for the horizontal stab on my C 160. Also fuel proofed the motor mounts... Parts are on the way, including 2 LA 25s. I hope they are enough. I'll keep you posted. Skip D

I just got one myown self from e-bay for $124.00 shipped, be here any day.

Gona do it up as a volter, engine cowls and nacelles last forever, no oily mess.

Congrats Carlos! I thought mine was cheap. Got it from e-bay as well for 138 to the front door. Let me know how the build goes. Mine is in progress. All is fairly easy so far except: correcting horz stab incidence, and engine nacelles. Good luk. Skip D

Hi
Been flying my C160 most of the summer and now winter is here and I'm borded......... What I would like to do is cut out the rear door under the fuse and have it open up in the air and perhaps drop stuff. Has anyone done this before and if so, How did you do it.


Thanks
Hoss

Hi all,
Just got my white Transall and gave it the once-over, not bad, not bad at all. Think it's going to work out well as a volter, lots of potential for scale detail and would love to get retracts into it as well as a working cargo ramp.

It'll be a while till I can get to it, other things on my plate right now so under the bench she goes, with the others.... for now.

Carlos

Does everybody have as hard of a time putting together the engine nacelles for the C 160 as I am ???????? MAN are they a PAIN!!!!!!!! At least for glow power.
Skip D

It has been awhile since i done mine but never had a problem with them at all, what is the problem