Boo2

Thanks for going to that trouble for me, I think you have saved me going down the wrong route in picking the engines :

I had intended to use the RCV 58 engine but from your pix I no longer believe it will entirely fit within the cowl. That, plus it may be a little marginal on power has persuaded me to go with Saito 62A engines for this plane. I was also considering the new OS 49 PII wankel engines but I think they turn too small a prop (10x6 @14k rpm) to be a good match for this plane. I am hardening up on going with the Saitos.


Thanks again,

Boo

Boo2

Hi,

Can anyone tell me what is reason the engines on this plane are mounted sidewinder fashion ? I would have thought inverted would give a better scale appearance, or failing that, with both engines mounted sidewinder but with the cylinder heads pointing inboard instead of both pointing starboard ? I'm sure there must be a good reason and I'm interested to know what it is ?

Thanks,

Boo

Boo2

Hi,

Another question : I downloaded the manual from hobbypeople.net andit says that the elevator servo must be a high-torque unit that is less than 13mm thick. I saw people here were using the Hitec 225, but that is nearly 17mm thick, can anyone confirm what mods (if any) were necessary to fit this thicker servo ? I would use the Hitec 5245 instead which is a digital version of the 225 with a Karbonite gear and higher torque but the exact same case as the 225, but only if it fits into the model :-).

Thanks,

Boo

Black Drape

Hey Jimmy or Eric

I just got the retracts for my Widow today and there seems to be a small problem. On the main gear struts, the the mounting stud is about a 1/4 in diameter, but the hole in the retract block is only about 1/8 or 5/32. Did either of you run into this problem? I sent them an email, don't get home in time to call them. The gear look very nice, very sturdy, came with the 90 degree fittings and all of the springs and fittings. Would have been really nice if I could have been able to put them together.

Ron

Eric.Henderson

I ran 10 x 6 and 11 x 6 on the Magnum 52's with no speed or thrust problems. The 10 x 6's were used first and during the first twenty in-flight break-in sessions.

Most of the thrust comes from the tips BTW

REgarsd,

Eric.

Eric.Henderson

Only the nose gear has the thicker strut-stud in the originals. The later versions use that thicker stud on all the legs. The quickest thing to do woul dbe to just drill out the block.

I would take the block out of the mechanism. It's pretty easy to do. Take out the set screw(s) and drill it larger in a series of drill bits that get slightly bigger each time. This will stop the bit from wandering in the gear leg block.

BTW The mains thicker stud leg is shorter and is a better deal on rough grass.

Regards,

Eric.

Boo2

Hi Eric,

Thanks for the interesting observation. Can you recollect what rpm you were getting on the 10x6 props on the Magnum 52 engine ? I would really like to try the Wankels (mostly for coolness factor :-) - but also because they will fit entirely within the cowls) I did think that a pair of 10x6 props would not be enough for a 12-14 lb plane but if your experience contracdicts that then I might try them.

Cheers,

Boo

Eric.Henderson

Boo,
Between 11 and 12K depending upon how broken -n the engine was at the time.


Eric.

kram

My Feedback: (7)

Jimmy and I flew our P-61's in tandem at the Ames Multi-Fly Saturday.

Mine (with the 2-strokes) may have been a little faster, but Jimmy easily won the crowd with multiple low-altitude rolls!

Quite a rarity. Quite a thrill.

We're all smiles after getting back on the ground in one piece each.

Denny also got some great video I'll put in the event DVD.


Mark

Jimmy Bananas

My Feedback: (13)

Mark:

Had a problem with sending messages to anyone on here for the last 10 days..All of a sudden ,it's working again..wonder if AOL was to blame...Anyway, let me know when the DVD's are ready...Again thanx for a great time....

Tommy_Gun

Here are a couple shots showing how the YS 63 fits in the nacelles.

Jimmy Bananas

My Feedback: (13)

TommyGun:

Looking good.....BTW, after each test flight, check to make sure that your stops on the struts, aren't broken..I got the new LG( are shorter by 1/2") from Hobbyshack they lasted 3 flights..Both stops were broken...No hard landings,one landing about medium.....Have a friend here who is going to spot weld new stops on and then the plane will fly again..seems as if the people who designed the gear aren't up to snuff when it comes to welding....good luck with your test flights............

Tommy_Gun

I don't think I will have a problem with the gear.

I fitted Spring Airs into my Widow.

Thanks for the warning tho.

Meekskin

Guys,

I am almost ready to maiden my P-61 and have a question for the futaba 9c experts. What I want to do is have the nose steering on a seperate channel from the rudder or be able to mix the steering to the rudder but only for takeoff and landing. When I am flying I want the rudder to move without moving the steering. Is this possible or should I just use a Y harrness and not worry about the mixing. I have all the plugs used on my 9 channel receiver. I could use channel 9 and use a y for the battery but channel 9 only allows operation from a switch and I don't want this....

any suggestions will be appreciated.

Jimmy Bananas

My Feedback: (13)

TommyGun:

What is the # of the units (Spring Air) that you used in your plane?

Tommy_Gun

Hi JB,

I used the Sping Air 102HD set with a 100 degree nose strut.
The 100 degree nose strut is not required. It kicks the nosewheel forward just a bit.

I custom cut a robart robostrut for the nose wheel (because I already had it), and I trimmed down a couple of spring air spring struts (similar to the robostruts, again because I already had them in my posession.)

Note that the Spring Air frames are more narrow than the rail spacing and that the pre drilled holes do not line up. I simply custom cut my own adapter plates from plywood.

I had to custom fabricate my door mechanisms since they are not provided in the basic plane kit.

It was easy to do using the pictures in the instructions and in this thread.

Good Luck

jersue

My Feedback: (40)

In response to Meekskin's question regarding 9c settings. Try this:

Keep rudder on Channel 4 as normal.
Put nose wheel steering servo on Channel 7
I use switch E for the gear retract switch

Program the following in Prog. Mix 4 (This is what I use)
Mix RUDD to AUX1
Set both RATES at +100%
Offset 0%

Mix ON
MAS RUDD
SLV AUX1
LINK OFF
TRIM OFF
SW E
POSI UP
This set up will allow the nose wheel steering to work when the gear is down but but once the gear is up it deactivated.
That is the way I have mine set up.
My P-62 should be ready for its maiden flight within the next week or ten days.
Let me know if this works for you----it does for me.
Jerry

jersue

My Feedback: (40)

Excuse me -----I have a P-61 ------not a P-62. I have not been praised for my typing skills.
Jerry

Boo2

Hi Chaps,

My oleo set came yesterday and I'm hoping the engines (pair of Saito 62a GK) will arrive on Friday so I'm set to go on the build now. I won't be using the ASM retracts units and I have a couple of questions on the oles sets if anyone here can answer them :

1. The main gear oleos are far too large a diameter to fit inside the blocks of the retract units I have, presumeably there is supposed to be a stub that comes with the ASM gear that fits the blocks at one end and the oleo at the other ? Please can anyone show me a picture of what these stubs look like, with dimensions ? Also the main oleos seem to have a tapped thread, I guess this is to permit the stubs to be retained - does anyone know what the thread size is ?

The nosewheel oleo has a tiller bar and a stub with a groove that is used to allow it to be retained by a screw while permitting it to rotate. My gear has a rotating block so I don't need this or the tiller. If I remove the stub (to replace it with one to fit my retract units) then will anything spring out that will be hard to refit ? Ditto the tiller arm ?

Thanks in advance,

Boo

Meekskin

Hey Jersue,

Thanks for the information on the setup for the mix. The only channel I have open is 9 and only then if I use a Y for the battery and put it on channel 5. I will set it up as you describe but using channel 9. I appreciate the help, especially after spending 2 hours today setting up the other mixes...I'm using seperate throttle control mix, flaps to evelator mix and seperate servos for the rudder....Took a lot of time today but everything is working great. I will be making the first of what I hope will be many, many flights. Also, I will post some pics and even a video if I can figure out how to post videos.

Meekskin

Boo2, If you can send any pics of what you have, maybe I or someone else here will be able to help.

Ken

Boo2

Hi Ken,

There is a pic on http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/190231.asp and also several in post 45 (page 3 of this thread). The main oleos differ from the nosegear oleo in thet they do not come complete with a stub but have holes drilled in the end. The holes seem to be tapped a bit deeper in and I need to know if this thread is intended to retain the stubs or if it is used for something else inside the oleo ? (Like forretaining the the springs or something ?). If the thread is intended to retain the stubs then I need to know which thread it is, it doesn't seem to be M5 so Im guessing it's 3/16 but I don't know the pitch and can't get my thread gauges in to find out.

Boo

Tommy_Gun

Just gave my YS 63s their first run yesterday at work. They sound GREAT!! and the needed very little run time to get good reliable settings throughout the throttle range.

I will test fly it this Saturday. Anyone want to see video?

infish

I have been reading this thread from the start, I love the P-61 and hope to build one some day, and all this Info. will come in handy when that day comes, Soon I hope.
I need a Video!!!!!!!!! I would like to thank all of you for such good Info. It makes life a bit more easy.
Thanks again
-infish (Tony)

Meekskin

Well, tomorrow is the day for the first flight. Hope to have video of the flight and I will post pics tomorrow. For the most part the build of the kit was good, however, some items like the door attachments really is poor. The cockpit floor didn't fit, and trying to put in the door acutators was a real pain. I think the design could be better on these items, but if it flies good, then I guess all is well. Will let everyone know how it goes.