Here is my two cents as to how to kit bash a single into a twin. Been there done this and it works.
There are very few multi engine arf's and few kits, compared to the single engine types. If you want to get multi experience before the bank is broken on that multi engined warbird consider "bashing an ARF" to a twin. Yes, the twinstar and others are good, but small compared to the larger warbirds.
One way is to find a long fuse single such as .60 size ugly stick, put nose cone over the center engine mount and add naceles to the wings. Warning, the wing loading sky rockets!!Forties will not fly this well. Go to two .60's, add 8" to the wing and add wing plates on the end. The result flys well and was the subject used for the experimenting on twins.
Another way is to create a "100'stand off scale" F-82 twin mustang. Yes, World models makes a F-82 arf, but is still smaller than 80" .
One plane that works well is to take two Long John 40's, combine the wing to 82", two fuses side by side, I set my engine spacing at 12.5" to use 12x4 props, and a single horzontal stabilizer. Must make a brace to hold the fuse's inline for transport. I learned the knife edge circle with that one and still fly it today with two .45's.
Still another is to use two Ugly stick .60's and build as the Long John. Take the arf's wing halves and glue as normal, then shorten the center joint four rib spaces for only one new joint.This yields around 86" wing span. Two .60 two stroks fly it well two .90's are awesome! (More power.ARGG ARGG!!) Sheet the center and glass for additional strength. The horzontal stabilizer is formed useing the original stabilizers shortened in the middle. This type of two fuse system can either put receiver on one side and battery on the other, or can practice the concept of two receivers for redundant control. Again, must build brace for transportation to hold the fuse's in alignment and not break the horizontal stab.
The two fuse conversions should keep the props almost touching for better engine out characteristics..My twin Ugly stick is not close. The center line of the engines is 20" for more practice similar to a P-38 with wide engine spacing and I am using it for aerobatic flight, coupled engines to the rudders. Engine out is good due to the long fuse and larger rudder.
Whatever you do have fun with it, but practice before the first twin warbird on a cheaper alternative. Been there done that..don't do that!!!

I was glad to see this forum Reguarding Twins and moreso in seeing your write up of The Big stick twin I have a GP big stick 60 Twin fuse design , Hanger 9 Ultra Stick 1.20 & .40 Twins and a Nosen Giant stick W/ twin 3W60's on it All are twin fuse and they all have Excellent single engine preformance. In short this design kept me in flying When I became bored with all else.

I fugure it's time to move on to something else though. Point of intrest is a Large ov-10 or A-10 or a F7F

Drop me a line with any Ideas that you may have .

John Limbach
[email protected]

MH am interested in your ugly stick twin, I had an old (nosen?) giant ugly stick that had an incedent with a tree. Wing came out in fair shape (built like a tank) am bashing into a p38 trainer, wide engine spacing (exact as Ziroli P38) also same boom length, might enlarge the rudders though

Have some building pics to post, if anyone is interested I can put them up later this evening.

the humble beginning

simple square fuse, should build fast, don't intend this one to be pretty, primary function is a test platform for equipment and a training model so I can be comfotable flying a twin when I finish my Ziroli P38

bracing support for the aft section of the boom

and we keep working, Boom #1 nearly all sheeted

starting to look like a twin

last one for tonight. Starting to plan the tail, requires some thinking, that will slow me down. I can finish sheeting boom 2 while I think

Told you twins make you crazy.Looks neat. Keep us posted.
Twinman

HI George, I didn't really mean to hijack your thread here but the title lended itself to the project. I send all the pic's of my projects to Paul, but I don't think this one is warbirds.com type project

flying2bill
No problem. These forums are to share information.
If you plan to use this for aerobatic flight, which will work great, as I have two such planes, can I offer a couple of ideas.
1.Consider a "Flap" in between the booms and couple to the elevator. Makes the plane much more responsive.
2. Really consider to mix the engines to the rudder control. You should be able to flat spin easily with this plane, but the mix makes it easier to get in, and much easier to get out, by merely pushing the rudder the opposite way. You will find that knife edge is also easier.
3. My twin stick, also has a mix, that is selectable to mix the ailerons to the elevator for even more response. Turn this off for landing or it will flair......a lot!!!
Told you twins make you crazy. You are going to like this plane. I did increase the rudder size by almost 50% and high throws for stunt work.
Good Luck,

Basic framework of the stab

Shot of the attaching bolts for the stab, I'm sure that I will have to assemble and dissassemble many times during construction, will probably epoxy in place once construction is finished

Frame work attached and almost ready for sheeting. Blocking for hinges (robart) has been added, lower spar has been installed and hardwood for ballast box installed, and has been sheeted, need to add the preshapped leading edge and some triagle stock to the trailing edge

Looks good so far.. How are you going to transport this one? Are each of the booms Separatable From the wing & Stab or is the center Including the booms staying together?

As per one of twinman's (I think) designs, the booms and tail will stay together and a spacer block to take the place of the wing. If it still won't fit in the van the other two choices are to load it on a trailer or just sit on the damn thing and fly it there lol.

don't make much progress during the week. Now have the tail sheeted and the leading edge installed

Another shot

flying2bill
I have two of these such convertions and love them.
They are posted at rcwarbirds.com and the twinman posts. I use the spacer, because it was easier to build the wing without plug-in's.
Plan on a rat's nest of crossover wiring each time you get ready to fly and make sure you can support the two fuse's during wing installation to not stress the horizontal stab...been there done that!!!
Do consider to link the engines electrically to the rudders. Really aids the knife edge and getting out of spins!!!!
If you have any concerns about the structure of your wing, lay a small strip of carbon fiber the entire lenght of the wing..both sides, as you will do many manuvers stressing both sides of the wing.
Good Luck

Tanx twinman, I'm not too worried about the wing, the main spar is two pieces of 1/4x1/2 spruce and 3/16 shear web. Originally considered single fuse and bolting engines directly to the spar (with ply backing of course) ala an ugly stick D18, decided I needed a twin boom trainer instead

Here are latest photos of work in progress basic parts for vert stab

stab #1 framed up

Getting them positioned on the booms