knucklebutt

Elevator is done. First two pics show the progression. Pin down the leading edge. Glue all ribs to the L.E. as you can see the ribs are a built in jig. When the ribs are in place you can slide in the trailing edge. Plans call for spruce, I used 1/8 lite ply.

knucklebutt

As I plan to have the elevator push rod inside the fuse. I constructed a torque tube out of 9/32 brass tube and control horn with 1/32 brass sheet. This was brazed (silver solder) to the torque tube.

knucklebutt

I added 1/4 stock to the leading edge in order for there to be more area to insert the torque tube. Then cut a channel in the L.E. for the tube, and lastly filled that area in with scrap balsa. Then beveled the L.E.

knucklebutt

Finished Stab and Elevator. Attached with "Robart" 1/8 hinges. Next I'll do the Rudder attach, then will fit to the fuse


Denis

knucklebutt

Rudder attach: as prior post I made doublers out of 1/8 ply to fit against the end stab ribs. Vertical stab or Fin is pinned onto the end ribs and 1/4 holes drilled. 1/4 "dowel is then epoxied into the end ribs. These dowels will not show as they end flush against the outside of the fin, which will be covered with iron on fabric.

knucklebutt

Stab Faring: laminated from balsa block and sanded into shape. I made this removable to gain access to the rudder servo inside of the stab Photos show the various hardware

knucklebutt

with stab/Elevator and faring: Note the small engineering error (the servo access hatch was supposed to hide under the faring) oops !!!!

I guess it will just give the plane more character



So now back to the fuselage and finish that up !!!

Paul_BB

Very nice. Neat job.

-Paul

zipman

My Feedback: (22)

Denis,

Looking Good. Hatch, smatch it all blends in when covered and painted.

I have been pacing the floor in anticipation of an update. Your either in deep building mode or someone kidnapped you for other chores.

Let me guess, your working on the landing gear.

knucklebutt

Stan: actually I had to divert several days in order to over haul and upgrade one of my favorites. ( See Below) Got back on the build yesterday and will be posting the update later this morning (its Sat. and pouring rain, ) I have more "Blocks" to sand and form. This plane is full of "Blocks" grrrr hate sanding, and might not be able to sand as its raining.


Denis

zipman

My Feedback: (22)

Denis,

Nice Beech. Can't tell the size but it looks big. Love the color scheme. I kind of thought you were sidetracked. Yah, I guess you either make formers and cover them or shape solid blocks to form the parts.

I like to make formers so less sanding.

Looking forward to updates.

knucklebutt

O.K. Gang back to the fuselage. Photos should be self descriptive

1. Front cowl note angle for F-2

2. Stringers on front cowl (this will be "strip" covered just like the nacelles)

3. Top formers note i added 3/16 sq hardwood for strength, not shown on the plans

4. F-9 will have to be notched (this is not evident on the plans

knucklebutt

Turtle Deck

Again all stringers are 3/16 hardwood instead of balsa. If you use balsa and attempt to pick up the model in the back end it will break and crack. My 1930 1/4 Fleet has this issue !!!

Turtle Deck is all one piece stringers all the way to the middle of the wing, then cut and separated after glue is dry. I am going to completly remove the wing part and replace with sanded balsa block. Attempting to cover this area in my opinion would just be disastrous. Which also means i have to go carve(sand) another block.

Note rough tail block. and front leading edge block.

knucklebutt

Front Cowl before and after. Strip planked using 3/32 sheet cut to 1/2" strips. Certainly looks nasty until sanded

also finished up the tail cone and front header piece (where the windshield is attached)

knucklebutt

O.K. here's the before and after for the wing/fuse fairing.

fairing will be removed from the wings after blending to the fuse to be fiberglassed and primered/painted. Reattached to the wing after wing is covered/painted. That will produce a sharper and more realistic fairing.

knucklebutt

and yes folks another BLOCK to form. I'm sure there's a better way to do this, possible blocks of "Blue Foam" just never tried it. Also not sure of the availability. I would make them out of fiberglass but you have to make a mold first, in which case for a one time shot, just use the mold !!!!

This will look much after sanding tomorrow

knucklebutt

This looks better.

zipman

My Feedback: (22)

Hi Denis,

Did you have to empty your 10 gallon shop vac yet ? Blue Foam is the way to go. Probably more dust that you don't want to breath but most likely easier to form and you don't have to hollow it. The airframe should just be about complete except for the landing gear. I know windows still need to be made.

Great job keep it coming.


Stan

knucklebutt

I agree about the blue foam, I just need to find a supplier:

and yes actually I think I have just about glued all the pieces that need to be glued. I am engineering the tailwheel as I write, and then Main gear. I think thats about it. Cover and paint.

However I am facing a possible small paint window. In Arizona you can not paint June thru October unless you have an air conditioned booth. By June early morning (5:30) can be 90 deg, and the paint dries before it hits the surface. I discovered this by messing up a couple of paint jobs. The problem is its getting way too hot way too early, its 95 out now Sat @ 5:30 p.m.

So I gotta get to hustling.

Windows: I have templates already cut out, not exactly sure how I'm gonna install them. I suck at windows: can you pass along and tips ?????


Denis

knucklebutt

Tail Wheel :

here is the Tail Wheel I am using

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRWW7&P=7

they used to be made by a company called Klett, now they are Du-Bro. I dont like them as they are intended to be used as the "Leaf Spring" is plastic and way too soft, but they can be modified to make a good realistic tail wheel.

knucklebutt

!/8 Ply for the area where the wheel is to be installed. A hole is drilled and a 5/16 wheel collar is epoxied (note angle so the Tail wheel is at a straight angle, )

knucklebutt

Install the 1/8 plate flush with the 3/16 stringers and reinforce the crap out of it. This can be a weak point if not. I have done this in another airplane and any time the tail drops form like an inch from the ground it breaks. See photos. another 5/16 wheel collar secures the shaft on the inside, and concludes with the control horn on top of that. I cut half of the horn off. I will use a separate servo linked to the rudder servo to control this. Not much torque needed so i use any ole crummy servo I have.

knucklebutt

Access panels:
Your gonna need access to this tail wheel for adjust and connect the push rod. Gonna need one for the elevator as well. Made from 1/32 lite ply secured with #1 wood screw. Panels will be coated with epoxy resin (no fiber glass) primer and painted. Note extra 3/16 sq added fro the tail wheel panel.

knucklebutt

Side Note: Windows: here's something I think is gonna work well for the side windows (this was actually my wife's idea) a slit is cut (carefully to keep straight) on the top and bottom of the window frame. The window is cut to size on the sides, and just a smidge over size on the top and bottom, which will slip into the slits. Hard to tell in the photos, but I like it !!

knucklebutt

Main Gear:

Not finished yet but here are some preliminary photos. Dont really need to give a detailed description as the photos pretty much speak for them selves. The wheels in one of the photos are NOT the ones I will use. I have a pair of "Robart" 4" straight tread ordered. See what ya think ??? Tomorrow I will complete the Landing gear struts.

Denis