RE: Palmer 132
 

Props4ever,

I bought all my wood at one time through a kit cutter, but sorry to say, I didn't bother to count the sheets - I just started building. I did have to buy some 3/32" because the kit cutter put in too many 1/8" sheets. I have 9-sheets of 3/32" x 36" to do the outboard wings. I think I'll have to buy some more here real soon. I know when I'm finished here that I'll have a lot of left-over balsa sheets, but that's okay - I'll just use it for the DC-6B that I'm going to build next.;)

Roger

RE: Palmer 132
 

Anyone know where Mike aka UkerDuker is now days?, haven't seen him on here in looong time now. Hope he is doing good...

RE: Palmer 132
 

Overseas.

Grinder.

RE: Palmer 132
 

Here is the picture of the gussets glued on the inside for extra support for both spar joints on the fin's base.....

RE: Palmer 132
 

I checked the front spar joints to the former, well that another story going on this end. Something i have never seen done before on model of this size!!!!

Tonite i will add supports to these front ones also, have to think how to this properly...

RE: Palmer 132
 

Grinder thanks for the update on Mike our Captain of the mania, hopefully he will be back soon safe n sound.


To all the guys who have already built and flown these C130's, how high does you rear cargo access door goes into the fuselage?, mine doesn't seems to go up that much as i would really like it to due to already installed mechanism for ramp n door operation...I like to find a way to open the upper one further into fuselage, any ideas..

RE: Palmer 132
 

Found this amazing video on multi engine models at a fun fly in Iowa, i liked it and saw couple of my favorite yet familiar multi engine models being flown(S Connie and C130), let see if you guys like it also n if one of the "Palmer C130 Mania's" members happens to be there also...

http://rcuvideos.com/video/2009-Cent...a-Aeromodelers

RE: Palmer 132
 

Here's a few pictures of my LC-130 version of the Palmer design.

Roger

p.s.
I'm having a problem uploading my photos. I get a "file too large" message. It's a borrowed camera and I don't know how to reduce the pictures (or whatever). I'll see if I can borrow the manual and try again another time.

RE: Palmer 132
 

Roger,

Here use this Imageshack program, it's simple to use.

http://www.imageshack.us/

Upload pics one at time with browse button

Click on image size n select 640 x 480 (for message boards)

Also

Click on "remove size/resolution bar from thumbnail?"

Then click on "Start Upload" in red box below

wait for few mins for upload

Then copy n paste from "Window 1" on the post message screen.

Now you can also add your picture's description also and simply do regular submission of the post message.

Your picture/s will show up re-sized on here..

Hope this helps to you and others who may want to use it.

RE: Palmer 132
 

Props4ever,

I thank you very much. If this works, it was really quite simple!
Once more, here are some progress photos of my LC-130 version of Palmer's design.

Roger

RE: Palmer 132
 

Roger,

That is looking awesome! I love the skiis. Are they permanent, or can you take them off and retract the gear? I am currently working through a Palmer Plans Shrike Commander, and I can only hope it comes out looking as nice as your C-130. Did you have any trouble with parts fitting? I am having to completely reshape most of my formers to get the correct curves and make straight fuselage sides. I have extended mine also and am converting to a Turbine Commander. I will be watching your progress. Are you going to do panel lines and rivets?

RE: Palmer 132
 

My pleasure Roger, i'm glad i was able to help out.

Your bird is looking simply great!, those skies are awesome indeed!!, , ,What sort of glassing cloth did u used on your bird, i'm going to go this same glassing route on mine also. Are you going to drop off cargo pallets also or jeeps from this bird??

Regards,
Sam

RE: Palmer 132
 

jetfixr,

I did some research on the full-size LC-130 before I started. It doesn't just have a modified landing gear - it has a totally redesigned landing system. The skis are never removed. For landing on hard surfaces, the skis a retracted up under the fuselage and the wheels are extended. For landing on snow, the wheels are retracted and the skis are extended. In keeping with the scale travel on this model the retract movement would only be about an inch or so. There wouldn't be much point in duplicating it. No one at the flying field would even notice it. I've got mine fixed in the hard surface landing mode with the wheels extended through the skis. The skis come off if I need to work on the gear.

Yes, I did have a lot of mis-fitting with the plans, but nothing that couldn't be corrected. It helped a lot to read this thread from the start. I learned what these other builders ran into before I got to that point.

Roger

RE: Palmer 132
 

Props4ever,

I'm using .75 oz glass cloth and applying it with brushed on oil based Verathane. After High-Build auto primer, I'm using Rust-Oleum auto primer then Rust-Oleum enamel paint. I mix my colors from their canned paint, not their spray cans. My paint spray gun does a whole lot better job than those spray cans.

Roger

RE: Palmer 132
 

Anyone going for this loaded EC-130E (CL) "Mother of all Herks!!""

RE: Palmer 132
 

Hmm, very interesting indeed. I have never used Verathane as source of resin/glue to apply the glass before on any of my models, i mostly use epoxy resins for my glass jobs..
Is this lighter n easier way then using epoxy resin?, would be very interesting to know.

I have used Rust-Oleum enamel paints on my models before, they are good yet cheap paints for our purpose. I guess it depends on type/model/variant one is replicating his model after n colors would be based on that.

RE: Palmer 132
 

I thought it was a different undercarriage system. It would have been a lot of work without much gain to replicate that! Keep up the good work.

RE: Palmer 132
 

Props4ever,

As far as applying glass cloth with epoxy as you're doing - I think that's a good way. I believe everyone should use what they like and are used to. If it works - great! I just happen to start by using Verathane. I started applying glass with the oil base Verathane years ago and just never found a reason to change. I've always stayed away from the water base stuff because I feel water and wood don't mix. I remember one disaster I had by trying to wet-sand an enamel finish - somehow the water got through in spots and raised the wood grain under the paint. I had to sand it all down to the bear wood and start all over again with new glass, etc. So from that point on, I've never used anything with water in it on these balsa models. I hear other builders talk about how easy it is to cleanup with the waterbase stuff. How hard is it to clean a small brush with mineral spirits? No harder than in a container of water! It probably takes longer to set up than epoxy and the waterbase Verathane, but I can handle it in a couple of hours. I try to do it late in the day so it sits all night before anything else is done to it.

Roger

RE: Palmer 132
 

I took bit easy over the weekend from working on the model as could be seen by couple of pictures of couple areas i only worked on Saturday night. I had great phone discussion with Dave regarding his stretched C130 build and also what he has in mind for his model, Thanks Dave for your time and i did learned few neat things from you that i will be doing to my bird also.

If you guys had noticed earlier in past pictures of the damaged former (FF27) infront of the stabilizer's LE, you will also notice that there is a gap between former behind it (FF28) and the top sheeting!. It was about 1/8" gap from one side to other. I couldn't really fill it due to tightness in the area but i was able to add and butt joint couple of 1/4" plywood fillets on the former epoxied to the top sheeting. Now all the looseness in that area is reduced if not totally finished as i still have to install new half former FF27.

Then i noticed that cockpit's left brace the is joined with top crutch box's longeron is also broken at that joint. It needed fillet under the the brace to fill the gap between floor and brace and needed to be made another joint. I used bit of water to soften the plywood brace for easy bending and then i had to use screw to hold it with hard balsa block to secure the joint. I used epoxy to re-glue and make this new joint as seen in picture below.

RE: Palmer 132
 

Today's update on the re-build so far. (Left main LG area)

As i'm going though this whole airframe, i have come across more areas that needed my attention. Old glue seems to have been really dried out and some joints are broken due to that but then, this also could have been cause of impact or not proper handling of this model before i got it. All seems to be some sort of stress damage.

1st picture.

Small piece of stringer in front lower fuselage needed rejoined and double upped with another stringer on top of it. This waz needed to so 1/8" gap would be filled and top sheeting could be attached to stringer n not just the formers in this area.

2nd, 3rd n 4th pictures.

All these cover's the area where inner LG door is mounted on it's long brace. Again this brace was found with damaged joints on it's back part and forwards part. Middle is ok n still solid. Due to this damage floor joints on all formers were cracked and broken also. All old glue was taken off and new joints with new glue were made on all formers. One of the front former's doubler was loose too and had to be re attached with newer glue.

RE: Palmer 132
 

Hey Roger,

Yeah i hear ya, you are right that we should all use whatever materials we are comfortable using and that it would work also. I thought ur way might save some weight but i suppose it's all the same at the end. I like using epoxy resins over polyurethane ones, though bit more pricey but they have no odor and application is easy and not messy at all, plus I could do glassing in the house also if needed to be.


As for yesterday Sunday, this is what i was doing. Putting few more hours on my flying log book. I haven't been up in air for almost year till yesterday, so a friend said, sure lets go up in his home built Osprey 2 amphibian plane. I loved flying his plane for 2 hours in the morning time. I flew over Brampton area and then went to Branford ON also. Took some areal pictures including our new house n property. It was a blast to be in air once again!!. Great to have PPL.

RE: Palmer 132
 

Did some more work today, i dry fitted the new half former FF27 and new crutch box extension that goes pass the box in the stabilizer area and joins the ramp longeron at the former FF28.
I had to remove couple of stringers but other then that all is looking pretty good.

I have a question regarding this area to anyone on here.

My new half former is made of aircraft grade plywood and other half is of balsa, now what should i do to reinforce original side with this new former!. I'm afraid other side would easily crack upon any slightly hard landing or in grass operations due to weakness in other half.

I was thinking to pull it out also but it's solid in where longeron and stringers are...

RE: Palmer 132
 

Something very interesting....finally found one!!

RE: Palmer 132
 

Fixing errors as im going through this model. Both left and right side landing gear fairing's front and rear ends were bugging me a lot since i got this model as they were not done right to scale shape and size. So last night n this morning i decided to cut old ones off and will build newer ones once i have decided what variant/version i will be replicating my model after.

Also added lower ramp in the fuselage to see how it fits and how the mounting damage will be fixed. Fit is kinda ok but not too great as one of the truss braces are in the way n preventing it from fully closing into the fuselage. I think this is the least of the problems i will face once i re-build this area. I hate light nylon Dubro hinges being used all over this model!, even on the ramp!!, what waz that builder thinking!!. I mean just the flutter alone due to looseness will break it off the airplane while flying due to drag pulling it out!...

RE: Palmer 132
 

Couple more..