derric

my main motor is about 1 inch in diameter......it can't be anymore than 1 inch

derric

my pionion gear doesn't have the little screw in it to take it off but i imagine that i can still take it off... i might ruin the old motor though so i would need a new and better one.

huttcraft

Hey MNKay,

I'm the opposite -- all my experience is with nitro, not electric, and with boats rather than cars or snowmobiles. Your set-up looks great. Did you build your tranny from a widely available gear set or are the gear wheels and clutch custom made? Did you have to do anything to keep snow out of the carb? Will the suspension and track be easy to upgrade so you can start opening'er up more often?

I'm jealous.

Dave

mnkay

Hey Dave,

Don't be jealous. Make your own. It took me 3 days to plan and 5 days to assemble. 5 more days of tweaking and here I am. As for the tranny, it is difficult at first, but when you make one, the second and third are easier. The original !QUOT!hex!QUOT! gear that came with the ski doo is being used as the tunnel drive system. I purchased a middle gear !QUOT!center drive!QUOT! system for a T-maxx and purchased the shaft for that gear. I am using an 18 tooth clutch bell and cannot go any smaller for the center drive shaft will rub on the clutch bell. I have a air filter that covers the carb so snow is not a factor. Also if you look at my setup, the windshield provides a buffer zone from the ground or snow. The rear suspension and track are all stock. I have not done a thing to it. It works and works very well. Again start hitting jumps at 20mph and forget this setup. A custom track system will have to be built out of light steel. I have designed and built a system but yet to install it. The ski doo is a handful to control at higher speeds. I let her rip today but only reached 20mph. The snow is soft and slushy and slowed me down quite a bit.

I would like to hit higher speeds but handling those speeds with the stock steering is a challenge. Today I installed a front end Strut tower brace and secured the mock front end stabilizers in front of the shocks extending underneath the belly pan. I secured a screw right through so skis do not flop from side to side. I will be tightening up my steering a little more and see how it runs tomorrow. I ran it today with the strut brace and ran more straight than previously and did not lean as much. It definitely tightened it up. Still under full throttle the rear end spins and constant steering correction is needed.

Overall I am very happy with the results. I did not have to purchase a Art attack to enjoy the snow and I hate snow. I am waiting for it to snow so I can run it down the street full throttle. I have however rolled it about 10 times and in 1 incident 1 rolled it 3 times and it landed upright and drove away. I have had it upside down and never stalled or over revved the engine. It is very durable as long as you build your chassis strong.

A friend of mine and I are now designing and should be ready soon a Nitro Belt Drive System. It is still being worked on but if it works, pretty well anybody could setup a nitro on a ski doo. It is much easier to make than the tranny I have designed. We will test with a .21 engine. It is powerful and will be the true test. I am hoping for belt longevity to be in around the range of 15-25 tanks of gas or 150-250 minutes. In nitro age, that is pretty long. Considering the ease of assembly would be feasible as long as belts are available. I will keep you posted. Check out the new Pictures.

j.d.roost

Hey all. I just got one off Ebay (it's not here yet). Its going straight to nitro ( I have a few pull start .15's sitting around and a TON of old tmax and 1/8 scale parts).I have a few questions.Is the stock drive gear on the right or left side (driver or passenger if it were a car)?Also will the fuel tank and rx battery fit under the rear seat?
Thanks, cant wait to get mine.

huttcraft

That's a fantastic looking setup MNKay. I hope you'll post some pics of your clutch/belt system when it's done -- sounds much more faithful to the real thing.

I wonder if you'd have any steering improvement with some light pneumatic shocks on the front of the skis, as in full-scale machines, keeping the skis in contact with the snow all the time. Also, have you put some ballast over the track? I see you're using a small fuel tank under the shroud -- is that a hopper fed by a larger tank under the seat? With nitro boats I usually use an 8 oz tank feeding a 1 or 2 oz. tank, which feeds the carb. The pressure tap on the exhaust goes to the 8 oz tank. That way until you're almost out of fuel you have no air in the tank feeding the carb, so the engine is much more reliable. Not that it sounds like you're having any trouble with the engine, but a setup like that would allow you to put some weight over the track.

I think for now I'll ride your coat tails and let you invent the perfect belt drive, then either buy one from you or get your advice to do it myself. Then we can organize the pan-Canadian rc snowcross challenge..!

Dave

Seba.p

Hi !! and sorry I AM VERY BAD IN ENGLISH... Btw someone have video?? About New Bright 28 ...

wayneheim

I just got One of these Ski Doo's. Very cool but way too slow. Saw mnkay's post about an inexpensive replacement motor. Kind of new to this. Looking for an easy solution to get a bit more juice to this thing. Can anyone else tell me what kind of engine to get and where to find it. I not worried about pulling the old motor or soldering in a new one... i can do that... but some of the posts call for replacing all the electronic, etc. and that is a bit out of my league.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Wayne

Hobbysect

My Feedback: (7)

Here is my question after reading all of this, what is the pitch of the or the pinions used. I have for the past couple of nights been modifing mine and today I have ran into this post. I have stripped all electronics out of it and replaced it with some laying around parts. I have a modified Peak Raceing motor, Novak Hammer ESC, and a Pro Racing Servo installed and working very will in my snowmobile. I have added a 15 tooth pinion but I would like it to go faster. I got this motor pinion off of an old Radio Shack Radio Controlled vehicle I have dismembers for parts and drilled the center mounting hole so that I can press it on the Peak Racing motor armature. I have done a search for motor pinions on Towerhobbies.com and found some that are 32 pitch. Will these work? I will also be adding some little weights to the belly pans outest most points so that it wont tip as easyly in turns. Since I have replaced the original 9 tooth with this 15 tooth it goes a little faster. I like the shock idea and also mounting the motor to the front instead of on top. I had actually broke the upper portion on the gear box when I was modding the area for the motor and had to make a motor plate. This was actually a good thing in my eyes. But back to the question at hand. -----Tony

bw27

Anyone else having problems posting pictures?

bw27

This is a 1/8 scale Polaris. I cleaned out the tub and installed a 540 motor w/ 15t 32p pinion. Standard radio gear, Novak Explorer. Battery just barely fits under seat. Much faster than stock. Some belt slip in heavy snow. Not much time on it yet, still some issues to workout. Fun to build.
Thanks Brian

niceorange

Hello all, sorry I haven't been on in forever to reply to some of the questions.

MNKay... crazy setup, but I wouldn't touch it! Nitro is fun, but decent electric parts can match it for performance and be much more reliable. I can see how that tranny would be problematic. Mine is tough enough to line up well wit a flexible belt, never mind trying to align and mesh gears and a vibrating .12. That said, nice job thinking outside the box.

In terms of my gearing, I run a 12 tooth pinion into my gear box, which yield a lowering ratio of 3.8:1. The belt pinion pulley is 16 teeth, the spur pulley 39.

After my original post I made some other modifications. I reinforced the motor mount and tunnel with angled brackets. I also installed some bearings to better support the drive axle. I bought two oil filled shocks for a [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXAMK2]Duratrax Evader ST[/link]. I removed all the plastic links that restricted rear suspension travel, and it works great now. I rewired my motor, ESC, and everything else with Deans Ultra plugs, and bought 2 GP3300 batteries.

With the GPs, the LRP runner reverse plus, and the 16 turn Trinity Speedworks, the power is close to being to much for the transmission setup. I snapped my original belt (it had been pretty well abused), and now have a hard time keeping the spur gear assemble tight on the drive axel. Under heavy load it likes to spin and slide away from the tunnel. When that happens, the assemble starts hitting the belly pan and shreds the plastic pretty good. No big deal, but something I'm working on for next year. What I really want to find is a better way to mount the spur pulley to the drive axle. The spur pinion is very well supported, but the spur pulley is so-so, especially under the power I'm giving it. I was thinking about maybe taking the drive exle to a machine shop and having a pully mount made. We'll see what I think up.

Overall, this sled is fun as hell to drive. It goes well in a couple inches of snow. It's best suited for flat areas, but it will climb a bit if the snow is packed and it has some speed. It jumps great as long as you hit the jump straight and are prepared to steer into the lean as it comes down. Keeping it upright is a skill that you aquire once you get used to predicting it's movement. For the most part though, it works great, and people love it. It's pretty damn cool!

IBrakeForNobody

My Feedback: (16)

Hey,

Sorry to bring this thread back up but here is my 1:8 Blade Striker X.



Once I get the new electronics for my Rusty, all the old ones (including a Monster stock motor) are going in there.

experimental_pilot

Are you going to post the video here?

mnkay

It has been a while since I posted anything but have been working on a couple of projects lately. I am currently building a New Brite Snowmobile with custom front suspension and steering, custom rear suspension and track. It is going to belt drive machined to my specs. Iy will be propelled by a Mach 26 motor with the original tunnel drive wheels on sealed bearings. I am striving for 2 clutch bell/drive pulley systems. High, and low. 20mph-35mph

I see from a majority of your posts that you have roll over problems and there is only one reason, play in the front end. If you stability, you would have predictability and would be able to feel when the sled is going to roll. I am posting pictures so you can get an idea and is not that expensive to do. More time consuming, than anything. The setup I have allows total adjustability for a drift effect ( allows more slide in the front) or pull the skis in and turn on a dime. ( if you can keep it upright) Having the oil shocks makes a world of difference. I now have a strut mount going across and keeps the front end flex down which keeps it more level in corniering.

I have taken a lot of time thinking the suspension and drivetrain out because it makes no sense trying to bolt 2.75 hp to anything if it won't handle it. With my new setup, it is being reinforced with light gauge aluminum in the most vital areas that generally fail. I know, I have built one already. A OS .15 motor and was fast but did not handle very well. Send me an email and I will send you the video.

This is not the case with my new setup. The front end is tight, almost no play at all. You want just a little bit though. In addition, the ski spindles are a real weak point. I have a simple and cheap way to fix this problem. It will never break and no worries taking those jumps now.

With my new setup, 4 foot drops will be easily gobbled up by the 5 oil shocks and I will be able to change spring/oil weight for maximum performance.

I will be creating a body out of light weight aluminum that will case the top hood of the original New Brite Ski doo so you can build your own Nitro version that has been tried and tested. Basically, it means, you bolt on your parts or I can do it for you. Mind you, this will be after New Years, but should have 1 or 2 ready then. I assure you that my sled will outperform and artattack any day. The full independent oil shock suspension will have about 3+ inches of body travel.

I will not talk about anymore until I have some more updates. Remember, want a video email me and leave me your email address.[img][/img]

Ocitsalocs

My Feedback: (2)

any action pictures

i kind of want one

i might go crazy and put a 12 volt fan motow into it

Keith-OH

Can anyone get me a video of one in action? I may need to get one this winter.

mnkay

Send me an email and I will send a video of the electric and nitro setup and in action. I also have a comparison test between a stock and modified electric New Brite Ski doo. Also, I have 3 New Brite Ski doos left with a faster motor already installed For Sale if anybody is interested.

mnkay

Here is a video link of a Stock New Brite Skidoo Vs a modified This is an electric setup that I only swapped motors----

http://media.putfile.com/Stock-New-B...fied-Drag-Race



Here is a video of last years New Brite Nitro Setup in action---

http://media.putfile.com/OS-15-Nitro-Ski-Doo-23mph



Let me know what you think of the Nitro setup. The transmission was custom built by me and worked for a while.

dangerboy1

Anyone got a new hood for the red/black one that they want to sell? My brilliant 5 year old son managed to break the plastic around the twist tabs that hold it to the chassis while driving it this morning.

PillFreeVitamins

mnkay,

I might be intrested. I got ripped off last year on Ebay. They guy I bought mine from never sent it. I am leaving on a cruise in the next few days so we will need to work out the details when I get back. PM me with details.

mnkay

I do have a red hood. It is like new. $20 plus shipping and it is yours. Let me know.

makg

hey mnkay, how fast do your motors make the newbrite sled go with no other mods but your elec. motor?

Mr.Sampson

I am a major snowmobiler. I am a hardcore fan of Arctic Cat too. I want to know how you would do all this stuff to an rc sled. Cuz i want my friend to be jealous because he is a major rc car freak. teach me through these how to do this. thx

Viperski

Hello Derek,
Nice to see someone from my state, The best thing you can do with those "Interactive Toys" snowmobiles are
gut out all them steering gears there and visit "Tower Hobbies" on the net, and order your self some Servos for your steering, a
speed controller, and order 1 of there nice brushless motors along with a new radio. But your still ganna run into the problem of
the track drive system skipping like it alway's does when you hit the powder. I have (3) of there models, (1) Polaris XC 700,
(1) Pro x 550, and a Blade Stryker, and all three of them had this feature. I actually wrote to the company complaining. The
Tracks have the tendency to Crack on the edges also. The skipping is do to the track being to loose. I made a slider cage
for mine, with a Gas shock, and made the Track Ajustable. Much Better!