Skidoo Rev XP snowmobile hop-up
#127

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Hopefully, because of my perpetual laziness, one and a half to two weeks.
You are a whole lot further than me, I bought 2 of these snowmobiles shortly after I found this thread, ran them around the backyard track a couple of times and put them back in the boxes, now I just read about them here. Gary
You are a whole lot further than me, I bought 2 of these snowmobiles shortly after I found this thread, ran them around the backyard track a couple of times and put them back in the boxes, now I just read about them here. Gary
#129
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ORIGINAL: subcaptian
I thought of that too, but I realized that when the suspension is pushed up, the track goes straight to the drive wheel, and it doesn't touch the swingarm. Although, in the event that does happen I am going to be rounding the edges down so it slides over it. It's easier to see when the suspension is actually mounted, and at the rate I'm going that should be done soon if my supplies can be kept in stock, eg. nuts, washers, allthread, aluminum strips to support the tunnel, and so on. Hopefully, because of my perpetual laziness, one and a half to two weeks.
I thought of that too, but I realized that when the suspension is pushed up, the track goes straight to the drive wheel, and it doesn't touch the swingarm. Although, in the event that does happen I am going to be rounding the edges down so it slides over it. It's easier to see when the suspension is actually mounted, and at the rate I'm going that should be done soon if my supplies can be kept in stock, eg. nuts, washers, allthread, aluminum strips to support the tunnel, and so on. Hopefully, because of my perpetual laziness, one and a half to two weeks.
#130
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Ya, over the past 2 days we just got like 14 inches of snow, and it's snowing outside right now pretty hard! Need to finish this! Oh, and I completely finished the rear suspension, just need to stop out at Morgan's Steel and pick up the aluminum. Next up, motor mount and belt drive, and the track drive wheel. Hurricane-fibers, any tips on this part?
#131

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Sokey70
The aliminum I used for the prototype is .032. I use this to prototype because I can cut and drill it easily using my dremel. For the real motor mount, I plan on using .025 (thicker) brass sheet. This is thick and strong but cuts easy with the dremel.
The aliminum I used for the prototype is .032. I use this to prototype because I can cut and drill it easily using my dremel. For the real motor mount, I plan on using .025 (thicker) brass sheet. This is thick and strong but cuts easy with the dremel.
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ORIGINAL: TechyJoe
Sokey70
The aliminum I used for the prototype is .032. I use this to prototype because I can cut and drill it easily using my dremel. For the real motor mount, I plan on using .025 (thicker) brass sheet. This is thick and strong but cuts easy with the dremel.
Sokey70
The aliminum I used for the prototype is .032. I use this to prototype because I can cut and drill it easily using my dremel. For the real motor mount, I plan on using .025 (thicker) brass sheet. This is thick and strong but cuts easy with the dremel.
#134
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ORIGINAL: subcaptian
Ya, over the past 2 days we just got like 14 inches of snow, and it's snowing outside right now pretty hard! Need to finish this! Oh, and I completely finished the rear suspension, just need to stop out at Morgan's Steel and pick up the aluminum. Next up, motor mount and belt drive, and the track drive wheel. Hurricane-fibers, any tips on this part?
Ya, over the past 2 days we just got like 14 inches of snow, and it's snowing outside right now pretty hard! Need to finish this! Oh, and I completely finished the rear suspension, just need to stop out at Morgan's Steel and pick up the aluminum. Next up, motor mount and belt drive, and the track drive wheel. Hurricane-fibers, any tips on this part?
How much snow have you gotten this year?!?
#135
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Probably close to two feet, maybe 18-20 inches. I'm on the Kenai Peninsula, we have mountains on all sides that block most of the snow. But, a little south of me, in Anchor Point they have 4 foot drifts of pure powder. Lets see, if I took my REV down there, thats 28 scale feet of snow!
#136
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Nothing big but i test fit a 5x11 bearing tonight and it fit perfect. I plan on using 2-3 on each end of my track wheel shaft. I'm also in the process of making a hub like Hurricane's to hold the track wheels and mount it on 5mm steel rod.

Hurricane's

Hurricane's

#137

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sokey70 and others
Guys
Using just pulleys on the Rev-XP will probably not work very well. The space available will not provide enough clearence for a large enough spur pulley to convert the motor energy into enough torque to turn the large track.
Guys
Using just pulleys on the Rev-XP will probably not work very well. The space available will not provide enough clearence for a large enough spur pulley to convert the motor energy into enough torque to turn the large track.
#139

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sokey70
If you can get a 40 tooth spur pulley to fit the space, it will most likely work ok. Do you have a pulley in mind with that many teeth which will fit the space? If so, I'd also be interrested in this.
If you can get a 40 tooth spur pulley to fit the space, it will most likely work ok. Do you have a pulley in mind with that many teeth which will fit the space? If so, I'd also be interrested in this.
#140

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Also FYI
The original stock Rev-XP gear ratio is about 8:1. The mods I made in the early part of this thread reduced that to about 4.2:1
The original stock Rev-XP gear ratio is about 8:1. The mods I made in the early part of this thread reduced that to about 4.2:1
#141
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I was going to get one from [link=https://sdp-si.com/eStore/]SDP/SI[/link] like [link=https://sdp-si.com/eStore/PartDetail.asp?Opener=Group&PartID=8054&GroupID=347]this[/link]. From what I can tell the flange diameter is about 30mm which will be a little large so i was going to just trim it down. Maybe I'm reading it wrong but these look like they will work to me.
#142
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Techyjoe - I saw that you replaced the Duratrax springs with the stock ones. I just installed the same shocks on my front suspension and as-is they compress nice but the rebound from the spring is horrible - the shocks stay about 3/4 compressed. By doing the stock spring did you find it stiffer and better for this?
Also, I have a motor mount in the works along with pulleys and a belt. This is getting fun, just when the snow is melting...
Also, I have a motor mount in the works along with pulleys and a belt. This is getting fun, just when the snow is melting...

#143

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sokey70
Yeah, the springs which came with the Duratrax shocks were way to mushy and the weight of the body really dropped the shock down below where they should normally sit so I replaced them with the stock springs. The stock springs may be a bit too stiff but they work better than the Duratrax ones (something inbetween the two would work best).
Winter is over here for me so I'm busy working on other projects (cars, boats, planes etc.). Please post the some pictures of your design and the components you used - I look forward to seeing it.
Yeah, the springs which came with the Duratrax shocks were way to mushy and the weight of the body really dropped the shock down below where they should normally sit so I replaced them with the stock springs. The stock springs may be a bit too stiff but they work better than the Duratrax ones (something inbetween the two would work best).
Winter is over here for me so I'm busy working on other projects (cars, boats, planes etc.). Please post the some pictures of your design and the components you used - I look forward to seeing it.
#144

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Hi everyone
Another season is here and I've been working on a few more upgrades.
I recently added some rail extenders to the track assembly. I had some trouble with the track slipping off the back wheels while performing sharp turns at speed. The rail extenders will stop this from happening.
Another season is here and I've been working on a few more upgrades.
I recently added some rail extenders to the track assembly. I had some trouble with the track slipping off the back wheels while performing sharp turns at speed. The rail extenders will stop this from happening.
#145

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Motor upgrade
I've also been continueing to work on that motor upgrade. I would like a little more speed and power so I've been trying to figure out the best way to fit in a full 540 brushless.
I scrapped the pully idea. This was cuasing to many problems with binding etc.
So, I went full circle back to the modified gear systems. Here are my steps:
1) I purchased a 3mm reamer/tap kit from the local hobby store.
2) Drilled 3mm threaded holes into my motor to fit the existing gear housing. The holes are 7mm from center.
3) Used the threading tap to add screw threads to the holes
4) Cut a large slot into the top of the chassis tunnel so the motor has room to fit in.
5) Now the gear housing will need to be beefed up and re-inforced like I did for the Himax motor so the torque does not rip it apart.
6) I'll be adding some fiberglass to fill in the slotted area around the motor to seal everything off.
Here are some pictures of my progress so far.
I've also been continueing to work on that motor upgrade. I would like a little more speed and power so I've been trying to figure out the best way to fit in a full 540 brushless.
I scrapped the pully idea. This was cuasing to many problems with binding etc.
So, I went full circle back to the modified gear systems. Here are my steps:
1) I purchased a 3mm reamer/tap kit from the local hobby store.
2) Drilled 3mm threaded holes into my motor to fit the existing gear housing. The holes are 7mm from center.
3) Used the threading tap to add screw threads to the holes
4) Cut a large slot into the top of the chassis tunnel so the motor has room to fit in.
5) Now the gear housing will need to be beefed up and re-inforced like I did for the Himax motor so the torque does not rip it apart.
6) I'll be adding some fiberglass to fill in the slotted area around the motor to seal everything off.
Here are some pictures of my progress so far.
#147
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Hey TechyJoe,
saw your videos on youtube for this and got interested and it brought me here,
Have a quick question first, I just got one of these for christmas and had it out in mildly soft snow and the power was weak, then it just quit, was wondering if you could let me know what could've gone wrong? the skis still turn and the motor will move an inch and a bit but theres little to no whine in the engine when im trying to get it moving. was looking for some insight
also was wondering what it would cost to do all of these upgrades to mine and how much work and skill it would take, 17 year old kid here with not much skill in these machines but enjoy when things move quickly and this is truely a slowmobile
Thanks and keep this thing going, it looks like it will be a total blast
Merry Christmas
saw your videos on youtube for this and got interested and it brought me here,
Have a quick question first, I just got one of these for christmas and had it out in mildly soft snow and the power was weak, then it just quit, was wondering if you could let me know what could've gone wrong? the skis still turn and the motor will move an inch and a bit but theres little to no whine in the engine when im trying to get it moving. was looking for some insight
also was wondering what it would cost to do all of these upgrades to mine and how much work and skill it would take, 17 year old kid here with not much skill in these machines but enjoy when things move quickly and this is truely a slowmobile

Thanks and keep this thing going, it looks like it will be a total blast
Merry Christmas
#148
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Bernsy you need to take out all the electronics and if you want power with very little time hook a big motor to your gearbox, change your servo this all will cost you under 90 dollars or less if you do brushed.
#149
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Techy,
First off, thank-you for some insight on your XP mods. Read from end to end. Also thank-you to all others her who contributed valuable nfo, and I will try to mod my XP sleds with what I've found. I will post a new thread as I go on thru the paces. I was not sure what brushless/ESC combo to start with, since it is rather a small cab with limited space, and don't want to punch too many holes in the chassis for strength. If I'm correct, the best size to for is 480, right? And using the traxxas/RR pinion setup should work? No premature wear as I understand? The next thing I'll look into is servo size. Was looking for as much power possible that squeezes between the shock mounts. Will try variations on the track mods here too. Thanks again guys!

S
First off, thank-you for some insight on your XP mods. Read from end to end. Also thank-you to all others her who contributed valuable nfo, and I will try to mod my XP sleds with what I've found. I will post a new thread as I go on thru the paces. I was not sure what brushless/ESC combo to start with, since it is rather a small cab with limited space, and don't want to punch too many holes in the chassis for strength. If I'm correct, the best size to for is 480, right? And using the traxxas/RR pinion setup should work? No premature wear as I understand? The next thing I'll look into is servo size. Was looking for as much power possible that squeezes between the shock mounts. Will try variations on the track mods here too. Thanks again guys!

S
#150

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No problem ScoobySing
Glad I (we) could help. I look forward to seeing what you come up with. Anyone's information on making these things better is welcome.
Yes, 480 should mount right up. Do not go crazy with the kv rating though (4000kv+ is too large a rating). 2300-3300 is best. Remember, the lower the kv, the more power but the slower it will go and vice a versa.
Here is some extra info I have found on ESC selection:
I have tried several:
1) Castle Sidewinder,
2) Associated SC700
3) and the Traxxas Velineon.
What I have found is all but the Traxxas seem to hiccup and stutter some at vehicle startup using a 11.1v lipo. I'm not sure why but my guess is that they cannot supply/dissipate enough current correctly to get the large track going. All seem to work fine when using 7.1v lipos but you will want the extra cell and voltage for more speed.
Glad I (we) could help. I look forward to seeing what you come up with. Anyone's information on making these things better is welcome.
Yes, 480 should mount right up. Do not go crazy with the kv rating though (4000kv+ is too large a rating). 2300-3300 is best. Remember, the lower the kv, the more power but the slower it will go and vice a versa.
Here is some extra info I have found on ESC selection:
I have tried several:
1) Castle Sidewinder,
2) Associated SC700
3) and the Traxxas Velineon.
What I have found is all but the Traxxas seem to hiccup and stutter some at vehicle startup using a 11.1v lipo. I'm not sure why but my guess is that they cannot supply/dissipate enough current correctly to get the large track going. All seem to work fine when using 7.1v lipos but you will want the extra cell and voltage for more speed.