kingelmo

Yeah, just got airbourne, for a sec or two, and just kept cutting throttle befor it got to nasty....

Need help...

kingelmo

Also, the rear prop kinda pulses

Whats that mean... mayb gyro or sumfin
might be just the trim who knows, goin to ma step dads work tomoz, HUGE 20x20x20ft ware house WITh a slipery floor!!!!!

Vertical3-D

My Feedback: (20)

Ok, trimmed my main blades even more, lifts off and flys great, tailrotor blade took a dump though, so I made a new one, which worked but slipped on the shaft so the gyro was freaking out, then ejected itself and she spiraled in, no damage though, now I am going to replace it with an EDF, a GWS one, which one do I want for this thing, it has the 33 main motor, and am currently flying a 11.1v li-po that is 910mah, flight time is good and wieght and balance are right on, so all I need it a ducted fan tail and it will be alot tougher and better in the grass...

JSGP51

ANyone want to field this question,

I have a Walk 4. And it's fairly new. The power to the tail motor goes away when more throttle is applied, thus I loose control. I don't see any pot on the rx, like the 22e has or in the instructions. Any idea other than buying another rx or even another brand rx.

I have a 22e and 60. I got this to get my son into the heli game, and this thing is pretty fun to fly.

JSGP51

kingelmo

It could possibly be the trim, or even a servo, try checking all the connections/charging battery, or the gyro might even be failing, if not, call/message the person you bought it off and ask [&:]

Mdhat

There is a hole on the side of the receiver right next to the flashing red light. Tiny philips screw driver, turn clockwise 1/4 turn at a time and see what happens.

Tom

kingelmo

How can i respray ma canopy with out it flaking????

kingelmo

What does it mean when the rear prop pulses?????[&:][&:]

JSGP51

I don't think it's the trim. the heli acts fine in the first 50 % of the throttle travel. hovering low 2 to 3 feet high.

I have to start giving it more and more right to hold it steady, as I start to climb higher into a move and then it starts to slow spin to the left on it's own, as if the control is frozen. I thought the gyro failing myself. But you guys are the experts on this type if heli. Thought I'd ask you all.

JSGP51


It could possibly be the trim, or even a servo, try checking all the connections/charging battery, or the gyro might even be failing, if not, call/message the person you bought it off and ask [&:]
[/quote]

Mdhat

I have ownly painted blades, but some posts earlier said you had to strip it first than use some special paint. Most air brush theirs.

JSGP51

So that's possibly the gain for the gyro? Yeah I do see something there. I'll give it a try. thanks.

kingelmo

Yeah just try everything, got mine ysterday so have no idea [:'(]

Rattlecat

I've been through a few tail motors in my 1,565 flights on DF4's. It looks like the tail motor is giving it's warning of wearing out. If you have a stock setup and the flat on the gyro adjust pot is any less than ten o'clock, then it's going fast. 9 o'clock and it may go out. That is if it started out fine at 12 'oclock. I run mine at 10 o'clock Try it at 1 o'clock and turns will be very sluggish.
A weak battery can also start fizzing out when the load of mid throttle + tail motor bogs it down. If it climbs really well, then it's the tail motor. They are like jelly beans in the heli world.

CH

Rattlecat

Whoa, I had two mini crashes today, both power loss related. First, I was coming out of a stall turn, in a left bank, building up speed, and all of a sudden the main motor cut totally out. The wire on the motor terminal had frayed and vibrated loose. Then later, I was stretching a battery, a powerful rush of wind caught me in a sideways slip, and whack on the ground. First crash, no damage, second bent the rotor head core. It's still flyable, but has a little vibration. I just changed the rotor core and a double whammy got me. Ain't these DF4's great ? That could have been a $60 day on many other helis.

CH

JSGP51

So your saying the phillips screw in the rx is the pot? ANd I don't see any mrkings in the hole for adjusting?

JSGP51

HeliSmith

Did you crash at all or was it like this from the box? There are a couple of things that cause this and one is definately vibration. Check to see if you are having vibrations like from a bent main shaft, uneven paddles, unbalanced blades or anything you can think of.

HeliSmith

I agree 100%.. I guess I am in windy season here, never paid so much attention to the wind before! So for now I bounce the DF4 around!

HeliSmith

MINI REVIEW: 2007 Version 1 HM4#-1

You will not need an o-ring, steel flybar or Super-Skids to get this one to hover. I didn't even take the time to balance the blades.. I unpacked it, straightened the paddles and lifted off.

Dead stable hover, nice response and reasonable climb out power on a stock nimh battery. I will try the lipo on it stock and let you know the results.

Anyway, it's windy still here so this test flight was in the garage. I will let you guys know how it really flies when the wind is gone. I will try and get some video. Here's a couple pics for now:

kingelmo

nah its sorted now just balanced it all and adjusted.

Thanx, but i am gonna be grounded for another 2 days or so till my rotor head arrives, can anyone tell me/ show pics on how to asemble it on????[&:][&:][&:][&:][&:][&:]

kingelmo

and how do you stop it from twitching when your like 8 ft away???? mine slightly twitches, then stops when i throttle up???[&:]

HeliSmith

There's a very helpful little 6 picture installation page that comes with the rotor head core. I will help you if you get in trouble though if need be. I remember it was a little hard the first time I ever dismantled a helicopter head but don't worry. This one is easy. Work the "short tie bar" off of the "rotor head". The rotor head is also known as the blade holder. Once this is loose and while holding onto the main gear, hand underneath, gentlely pull up on the "rotor head a.k.a. blade holder" while rocking. Save those bearings from the ears of the rotor head core! Now you need to work the "long tie bar" loose from either the "rotor head ring" or from the "swash plate". Once that is loose pull the pin that runs through the "guilding ring", "rotor head core" and "main shaft". Now you can work the "rotor head core" off with ease.

If the rotor head core is broken and the blades already in the parts box then you can skip at least one of these steps and move to usable part recovery mode!

Some helicopters get hooked on crack I think. Three reasons you would have twitchy servos that come to mind.

1. The antanea wire comes wrapped around the left side of your skid and this is bad. You aren't supposed to have it cross back over itself. What else do you do with it on a stock heli? I don't know really. Don't wrap it around the boom though, that is even worse!

2. Your servo is binding.. If it wants to go straight but there is bindage against it then it will sit there and twitch. Make sure everything moves nice and free.

3. Bad servos which Walkera is absolutely notorous for!

kingelmo

where should i wrap it?

kingelmo

My friend just ramped his helicoptr up to a 60cm main blade, 12v motor, and 20cm rear blade with extnded rear thing (forgot name[:'(])

kingelmo

I love the sound our chppers make when you take off, the thud thud thu noise, but faster...

yu guys have been like a family, thanks, i will definately takes pics when i can hover [:'(]

HeliSmith

Ok here's a review of the Sabre where Fred Bronk explains about moving the servo linkage 2 holes in. Also he says unwrap that antanea and put it on a straw. Here's the video.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showa...hmentid=912437

Here's his idea:


Here's where I leached this information:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=326535