Orion1024

Dave,

My roller didn't spin either from day one. Actually, you need to be careful about that...if it does spin, you may in fact be putting too much tension on the belt. Now that I lengthened the slot in the boom and made my gizmo to set the tension on the belt, I have been experimenting with different tensions. What I found was that if the roller does spin, you should be able to put your finger on it with light pressure and stop it. The other test I do is pushing the belt over, right where it exits the front of the boom. When I push the belt over with light pressure, it will go over to about the center of the boom. This seems to be about as loose as you can set the belt and be assured it will not slip. If there is too much load on the main motor from anything (gear mesh, belt tension, etc.), there's a good chance you will cook it like I did!

Anyway...yes you can straighten the main shaft but it is a ROYAL pain to get it straight enough to work well. I usually go back and forth between bending it back with pliers (with a paper towel between it and the shaft) and pounding it on a concrete floor with a rubber mallet. Just be careful you don't put any marks from the tools into the shaft, or it won't work right anymore.

I've also had the stiff blade problem...for me, most of it was the bolt was too snug inside the brass bushing. I don't think there's anything you can do to the stock blades without ruining them - they are very flimsy.

Don't worry about the problems you might have at first. It took me around 4 months to figure out how to fix all the problems with my #4 and now I'm starting over from square one with this heli! Through trial and error - and the process of elimination, it's only a matter of time before I solve all the problems with this one.

soneebee

Orion, I have a couple of this blades they seem to be heavy even with the holes on the bottom part they are still on the heavy side. this might have caused your motor to heat up faster. I think I have like 3 pairs of this blades with different colors. It is good cause you wont have problems chipping it in hits but I dont like using in because of the weight...

Orion1024

They do seem to be a lot heavier than the stock ones, but it's hard to tell because I don't have a scale. I think you're right, the weight is also an issue. Too bad, because these blades are a lot tougher. But if they don't work for me, then that aspect is pointless. Also, one of these blades was curved down maybe 1 cm more than the other one! So I had to heat it up and bend it back! Needless to say, I won't be buying any more of these blades! Hopefully the wood blades will be lighter and more aerodynamic. These are the wood ones I ordered, do you think they'll be better?

http://www.helidirect.com/product_in...roducts_id=578

soneebee

woodies are good.. they seem to have better coning agle when in use.. it might be lighter than the plastic blades.. wny not try CF blades.. this are a lot lighter than the foamies.. and more durable...well not durable it you try to hit it.. bit its more sturdy and has better control over the heli.. but I see your problem is the heat on the motor.. CF blades although lighter tends to get more amp draw and thus more motor work. I guess its because of the robust design of the blades itself very sturdy...

Orion1024

Thanks for the advice. Hopefully today I'll find out how those wood blades do. I certainly don't want to go back to the stock blades if I can help it!

SeaComms

Hi all, further to my disapointing delivery this afternoon, I have just shot off email to supplier;

Further investigation shows the flybar is bent and the tail servo plastic brackets are bent and almost broken as well… The outside of the box (packaging) was a little bumped around, it would appear it has a rough trip coming over.

In summary,

1. Radio gear on 35Mhz (not Australian 36Mhz as discussed by email prior to bidding)
2. No Brushless motor (as indicated by email prior to bidding)
3. No Brushless Activator (as indicated by email prior to bidding)
4. Flybar bent in transit (HM-036-Z-03)
5. Main Shaft bent in transit (HM-036-Z-30)
6. Spare main rotor blades damaged in transit (HM-036-Z-01)
7. Tail Servo Brackets bent about to break – in transit or possibly over-tightened in factory (HM-036-Z-34)

I can provide photos of any parts if required. Please advise as soon as possible what can be done to rectify these problems.

Will be interesting to see what response I get. At least I have managed to get the transmitter fired up and working with FMS through SmartPropo Plus. Am mastering the art of flying in the digital world instead

I also tried to straighted the flybar - its pretty close, but rolling on a glass table can still see a little woble so not prepared to keep it.

Cheers, an unhappy not yet pilot, Dave.

soneebee

SeaComms, i hope they replace the parts that are defective. man that something that is not right...

Orion1024

Man, that really sucks. If you paid with a credit card, you can just dispute it. I've done that several times with no problem.

SeaComms

Paid with paypal - so have a resolution through there if I need, will wait to see what the supplier repsonds with... fingers crossed

Meanwhile... getting good on FMS! can do some pretty good manouvers! and then even land again

squadri1126

SeaComms,

sounds like it was a used and retunred walkera.... don't let them take you for a ride..
If they do not replace, get your money back.. all the way.

It really does sound like a used item, I have purchased items from over seas in the past. usually they are ok.. but with your spares being damaged already is a sign of used merchandise.. to me.

good luck..
squadri

thecheatscalc

actually, you might want to check if you've got an aluminum shaft on there, those things bend like butter! just take a magnet and try to stick it to the main shaft.

also, 9 days isn't bad, I ordered a barebones kit and waited 6 WEEKS! [X(]

soneebee

I have been continuing the set-up on this DF36, I have build the walkera metal tail assembly for this heli. and this was part of the review on the parts and why they sent me the 36 in the first place.

The metal parts are not really CNC it like molded and stamped aluminum then anodized blue, It is very light weight although i cannot compare the quality to align parts but they can be better replacements than the plastic ones.

The Assembly is the same as the one I did on the DF60, all the parts are same, no difference in all ways except the tail boom. The boom is longer than the original #36 tailboom but shorter than the standard tailboom for the #60.

.

assembly was simple although there was no manual to follow it can still be built with simple tools. If you need the build manual I have made one for the DF60 and it is the same . you can download it at http://www.ehirobo.com/shop/download_file.php. now just make sure to use loctite "blue" on the threads cause this is mostly metal to metal parts and since this thing is spinning on a very high RPM better to make sure that the parts are intact.

I have'nt tried flying the heli after the build but ill try it tomorrow morning when the wind is not blowing hard.. I have adjusted the belt tension on the 36 to be loose than stock but not too loose that ill be skipping meshing.. I see that there was less friction now on the head when i try to rotate the blades.

here it is now after setting it up







happy flying .....

Rattlecat

Those metal blade grips look like what I need. I am going to try putting a thick paper strip in the bearing slot of the upper and lower plastic grips for now and see if that takes up some slop. Also, filing the brass sleeves in the blade ends down to even with the hinge eye flat area should help. They are still a bit oversized on mine.
Here's my big question. Has anyone tried the Align 315 Yellow carbon blades on the DFD36 and how did they work, especially in fast flight and hover too, (hmmmm helicopters !) .

Stableblade

ocho007

Can any one with a new 36 help?

i am after pictures of the helicopter from different angles top, bottom, left, right, front, back, as well as close ups of the tail and rotor head assembly and with out the canopy on

i started creating a 3d model for Reflex XTR flight sim but my birds not stock plus it has a few lumps of glue ,scratches on the blades plus i have airbrushed my canopy so the model is not looking like a dragonfly 36

the pictures do not have to be high res just square to the side you are viewing.

if any one can help just post them here or in your gallery

when finished the model will be made public for anyone with reflex to own.

thecheatscalc

stable blade, personally, they're just too big, I have some woodies and unless you've got some extra weight somewhere on that heli, it's going to wobble, and, the tail just won't keep up well.

Ah Clem

2 more flights today, that is either six or eight since I changed over to the Spektrum. Much better not having to worry about the radio so much (I can concentrate on worrying about my thumbs).

Have any of you rolled one of these beasties yet? I have not yet set my idle up. I think that it will have enough power with the Shogurn brushless, but even with full throw on the cyclic, I am not sure that the control authority is there.

I did not buy this one for aerobatics, but I am getting tempted. Assuming that one can get it inverted, it should be a dream to fly (as it is so easy upright). Of course, one has to be able to get it back rightside up again...

Anyone tried it?

SeaComms

Umm... only on FMS

Speaking of which, anyone out there care to comment on the comparison to flying the FMS chopper to the #36? As mine still wont fly [:@] I have only got the sim to play on and am wondering if the flying characteristics are really the same. I have the standard transmitter set up as the controller which at least gives me the feel for the controls and orientation but can't compare it to the real thing . Having said that, in the last 12 hours of fiddling I am now pretty competent on FMS. I found the hardest part is the low to the ground hover and manouvers, once up over 20 metres (in sim height hehe) it is a lot easier and also more forgiving (more room to correct!) - spose its also a lot cheaper when you crash... now, I wonder how to upgrade to sim to indicate what parts might have broken then link that to a price list so I can see how much money I am saving not flying.......

Cheers, Dave.

Orion1024

I'm starting to think the 36 is just too slow on the cyclic and underpowered with my setup to attempt 3D. I'm sure some mild 3D could be done, but I'm guessing that's the extent of it. Actually, when I get to that stage I think I'm going to get a 22E to attempt 3D.

Orion1024

I would say the Hughes in FMS is very similar to the way the 36 flys.

soneebee

Well I tried the new tail set-up it was doing okay, it seem to be no different than when it was plastic, rudder control seem to be a little sluggish and not what i expected it to be. There is this one thing I am not sure why when i used the metal tail I had to switch the gyro to normal than reverse and the rudder dipswitch to the reverse, the controls on the rudder seem to be the other way around but the set-up is the same as that of the original. This also happened on the 60 i had to reverse the setting on the dipswitch

well I had a good flight right thru about 10 mins when the heli started to glitch and lost control. teh #36 went to the wall, wham.. well nothing was broken except the blades luckily.. thank God that was just the problem... bad walkera glitches.. this is the first time that this happened on this heli...







main shaft seem to be still okay.... even the metal parts seem to hold okay.. and the align feathering shaft.. well its still holds okay too.... i thinks ill try to test it again and see if there are some changes on the flight pattern...


happy flying....

Orion1024

Did you replace the tail boom with a CF one? Maybe that had something to do with the glitching. Also, where is your antenna?

soneebee

nope the boom is the original aluminum upgrade boom... its the one that comes with the upgrade kit... the antenna is still at the skids.. i never had glitches before.. this is the first time i have it on the heli.. i thinks something did went wrong with the TX/RX I am checking all the parts now and building the heli again.. seem to be fine except for the blades,...

Rattlecat

Sometimes the glitches are from batteries. On my df4, I have a bad pak that glitches, even with Dean's connectors. My other two paks, zero glitches, EXCEPT when I let it get too close to the metal roof of the storage shed. A problem called multipath reception confuses the receiver and it can loose it's lock on center frequency or freak out deciding on which signal to take. A large or tuned metal structure can reflect the transmitter signal stronger than from the tx IF the axis of the antenna is pointed at the heli, then the large metal area collects the signal and sort of concentrates it like a sattellite tv dish and over powers the weaker tx signal. Always keep the tip of the antenna away from the heli. As a matter of fact, a bend connector that turns the antenna sidways from the tx would work best, but looks crazy. There is also a power line running across the far end of my yard and when the heli , power line and antenna tip are all in line, I get glitches.
I hope the DX6 does not have this problem with it's dual 90 degree receivers. Still deciding on an external brush esc for now or going on with an Align BLDC system. I worry that a crash may bend the expensive BLDC motor shaft. If I remember, you have a bldc system.

Stableblade

Ah Clem

Stableblade,

DX-6 is very solid so far in the 36. I have had it up and out about 300 feet and it has been dead solid.

The problems with the Walkera Radio seem to be as much in the TX as with the RX and antenna location (although wrapped around the skids as per factory is not at all good). Get it out in front as Orion did, stretch it back to the fin, or get a whip antenna. Do not coil it if you want to have good range (you may not get glitches in close, but you will de-tune the antenna).

If you get a good Walkera Radio, you get a good one. If not, swap the Rx and Tx with known good ones (Specktrum, JR, Futaba, etc.) and fly the daylights out of the machine.

The only problem I am having now is that the thing is so easy to fly that I am no longer learning anything. I need to go back to the Venom and the TREX (but I am having fun).

Rattlecat

That's good news that the DF36 is easy to fly. I am tuning my reflexes with the DF4 for now. Getting from cartoonland simulators has some complications, but so far much better than without one, like I say, it's just tricky to blend from fantasy to reality. Like on FMS, I can handle any orientation, but on real side hovers I get confused when the df4 starts it's little gyro wobble thing (most heli's do it some) .
I still like the DF4 a lot, I call it Duffy, but I am getting anxious to try the 36 out before even changing the transmitter. Also anxious to try the DX6 pitch curve so I can get the head speed up faster.
On wrapping the antenna around the skids, this is like making a rejection filter. Many FM radios use about 7 to 10 coils of wire or even less to make a tuned circuit for the 88 to 105mhz band. Maybe we would be better off to just cut the antenna short or better get one of those ant loaders then cut it. But on the other hand, as long as the tx is closer than an interfering signal, keeping the rx sensitivity minimum should help keep interference lower.

Stableblade