acebusa

Cool, Ill try that. Mine has been jumping left, and right aggressively I just tried to fly it any way. Hey, what is a good simulator to use?

Ah Clem

Ace,

Mine was just wagging its tail back and forth, very rapidly. I also followed Venom's advice and tweaked the PZT knob to slow down the head a little.

As far as simulators go, I am not knowledgeable in that area. I am using the FMS (free) simulator, as my computer is so and archaic. The graphics are not what you might get from and expensive sim, but it works well, and is great for general reaction and orientation practice (I keep flying-or trying to fly inverted on it--FMS has probably saved me $20,000.00 in parts!!!).

acebusa

I found that the problem with mine was the bushing in the tail motor poped out. It was causing the gear to jump teeth on the tail gear. Fixed that. I am still working with the super head, The more I mess with it Im Not liking the design of the blade nips, I am just now looking in to it more but it looks like it may be problems in the future.[sm=tired.gif][sm=thumbdown.gif]

acebusa

I Cant believe the design on these blade holders. Come on one bearing on one side, and just aluminum on aluminum on the other side..... and its sloppy. They torque the screw down till it starts to bind than back off about a 1/4 turn, and use thread locker to hold the screw from backing out. Not what I expected for 180$$$$$$$ I made my own out of aluminum with bearings on both sides that worked better. They just would bind a little if I over torqued the screw. (Guess I should have used thier technique.) I think I am going to send it back rather than try to redesign thier design and void the warranty. I will let you know how it goes.[]

acebusa

What controls the gyro Is it the dial named limit, or delay? I cant decide whether to keep the super head, and modify it or send it back and try to find a better one. Dm makes a good looking one but You would have to pay over $300 for all the parts that come in the super head. All the other parts look ok on the super head except the blade holders. I am going to talk with helihobby tomorrow and than decide what to do.

Ah Clem

According to Venom, the lower pot controls the gyro.

zacc

okay i am a newbie i have one of these 22e and am just starting out can some one tell me what the limit and delay on the reciever do ? and what they should be set at for a beginer ? thanks

zacc

yet another question , on the back of the transmiter there is a switch that says helicopter / airplane , mine came from the factory set on plane , i know this sounds lame but is this correct ? thanks

Ah Clem

Zacc,

There have been several posts with regard to how the DIP switches on the back of the transmitter should be set.

The following info came from a forum member. I appologize, I do not know his name. Bear in mind that your machine is CCPM and his is not, so your CCPM setting should be the opposite of his.

"For everyone who's been wanting to know what the Dip Switches on the back of the Walkera 35 and 36 Tx Do, here's what I've managed to figure out so far..

---
#1-Elev(ator)
#2-Aile(ron)
#3-Thro(ttle)
#4-Rudd(er)
#9-Pit(ch)
#10-Gear
are all servo-direction-reversing switches. When I replaced the standard Walkera Dragonfly servo's with Hitec HS55's I found that they move in the opposite direction to the dragonfly servo's, so all these switches needed to be flipped to make the servo's move the right way. For standard servo's they should be fine the way they come.

If a channel is moving the wrong way, flip it. Be careful flipping #3, since on the Walkera Rx, the integrated Speed Controller is internally coupled to channel 3 and you will end up with full-power being at the idle stick position.

---
#5-Heli/Acro switch enables a feature that I think other radio's usually call "Revo (Revolution) mixing" that is sometimes used for Helicopters.

As you increase the throttle (channel 3), it adds a bit of rudder (channel 4) automatically to compensate for the increased torque reaction from the increase in power going into the rotor. The screen-print labelling on my Radio for this channel seems to be backwards though. When the switch is to the left (Heli mode according to the screen printing) the feature is disabled, when it is to the right (Acro Mode) this feature is enabled.

It doesnt seem to be necessary with the Walkera gyro, I find the Heli stays stable with this feature disabled.

---
If you do enable Switch #5, then switch #6 determines what direction the rudder channel (channel 4) will move/mix as you add throttle. If the rudder-revo correction is the wrong way, then flip this switch. Again, this one probably doesnt matter for Walkera choppers, since with #5 switched off, #6 has no effect.

---
#7 changes the transmitter mode from CCPM (Cyclic/Collective Pitch Mixing) to "Normal". CCPM mode is used on some Helicopters that have 3 servo's connected directly to the swashplate and move them in combinations to control both the pitch and collective (hence the name).

With CCPM Mode, Collective Pitch is increased by moving all the swash servos up at the same time, Forward/Backward and Side/Side Cyclic Pitch is varied by moving two of the swash servos in opposite directions. Again, this feature isnt used on the Walkera Choppers since they dont use CCPM - Their rotor head uses a seperate collective servo which requires "normal" mode.

Supposedly CCPM is better for less slop in the rotor head since there are less linkages to get sloppy, but requires stronger servo's since they are coupled directly to swashplate and have to cop the full swash forces and vibrations.

Again, on my Tx, the CCPM/NORM labelling is reversed. Normal mode is to the left and CCPM mode to the right. If more than 1 servo moves when you move the cyclic stick, your Tx is in CCPM mode. Even if using a CCPM Heli, you will need it to be in normal mode for use with a simulator via a cable.

---
#8 is the pitch curve lock/unlock switch. This one is actually labelled correctly !

With it in the lock position, the PZT/PLT knobs have no effect and stay as there were when it was last unlocked. When in the Unlock position, the PZT/PLT knobs will work, and when returned to lock, the Tx will remember the last PZT/PLT settings.

from what I can tell, the PZT is probably the "Pitch Zero Trim" (or something like that). It sets the "Zero Point" of the throttle/pitch curve. Zero is the lowest pitch position which is at low-stick when in "Normal" mode, and at Mid-Stick in 3D ("1" mode.

"PLT" is probably "Pitch Length Trim" or some other piece of "Engrish".. It sets the Travel or Range of the collective pitch servo (or all 3 swash servo's in CCPM mode). With it turned all the way down, the position of the throttle stick makes no change to the collective pitch. With it all the way up the pitch travel is at maximum.

In normal mode, the travel is one-way, from the "Zero Point" (PZT) to the maximum set by the PLT knob. In 3D (1) mode, the Travel is two-way to either side of the set Zero-Point. I suppose this is so you can set negative-pitch at down-stick for inverted flight if you're that adventurous.

If you have a pitch-gauge you can set the zero and maximum pitches by the numbers in the manual. Without a pitch gauge in normal mode, I turned them both to minimum, then spool up to medium stick and then adjust the PZT/Zero knob until the heli just starts to lift off, then spool down, unplug the motor and set the PLT knob to achieve maximum pitch without binding the mechanism.

If it sounds like you are bogging the motor down at full-lift, you would probably want to turn the PLT down a bit to reduce the current load on the speed controller.

Thats about what I've managed to suss out so far. If anyone knows of any errors, let us know..

_____________________________

I wish I knew this posters handle so that I could thank him!

zacc

here again with another question , brushless motor is it a good thing? what advantages? do i need to buy anithing else to go with the motor ? were is a good place to buy?

zacc

can some onetell me pleas ehow tight are the main rota blades surpose to be in there holders , are they supose to be free moving? thanks

acebusa

I like to keep my blade grips snug, too loose they flop around. Too tight and your heli wil viberate cause the blades dont straighten out right.

acebusa

AH, Whonor what is this venom you speak of?

acebusa

Ops, Miss type I ment who or what is venom.

Ah Clem

Ace,

See if this does not look familiar (canopy is different):

http://www.venom-aircorps.com/

It bears a lot of similarity to the Walkera product (#22E), but all reports (from other forums) appear to suggest that it is upgraded in terms of construction and radio performance.

I do not have a Walkera 22E with which to compare it.

Suffice to say, the Venom product flies very well. Radio performance has been very solid, and I am extremely pleased so far. I have not taken it too high up in the small park that I am flying in. I estimate that it has been no more than 200 feet up and away, so far.

I am up to about 17 flights or so, after this morning.

Still running the stock motor and 3 Cell 1000 mah lipos.

I am actually contemplating purchasing a second VNR3D, as I want to start looping and rolling it and that will grossly increase the chances of dorking it.


Zacc,

"here again with another question , brushless motor is it a good thing? what advantages? do i need to buy anithing else to go with the motor ? were is a good place to buy?"

If you are learning, the last thing that you need is a brushless motor. It will increase the power quite a bit. If your 22E is anything like my VNR3D, then it has lots and lots of power with the stock motor.

"can some onetell me pleas ehow tight are the main rota blades surpose to be in there holders , are they supose to be free moving? thanks"

I agree with Ace-snug is good. You should be able to move them with your hand, but they should not swing freely. You want it so that they do not jerk around during spool-up, but so that centrifugal force will allow them to find their own center (lead/lag).

acebusa

Yeah they look the same. I found if you want to try things that you might crash at, fly over sand! Like in a volley ball cort or a beach. It seems to make survival of parts about 90% better!
just a suggestion for a fellow flying friend.[8D]

acebusa

AH,
You Know how I was fighting the tail jumping back and forth. Well I went out to fly today after work. New blades and all, Kinda windy but I still managed to hold a steady hover. It hovered super smooth, and I let out a little grin than It spun A half turn Very rapidly out of no where! I shut down the throttle and let it fall. Nothing hurt. I looked it over and couldn't find anything wrong so I tried again..... It went up about 2' than Violently spun around about 3 times than slammed to the ground. I took It up to my shop, and began to look it over, Disconnected the main motor, and just ran the tail It came on soft with the throttle at 25% than without moving the stick It jumped to full throttle and stopped completely than jumped to mid than top throttle and repeated rapidly. I found if I tapped the receiver/mixer Than it would cause it to jump and become more erratic. Regardless I found that it is a bad mixer. My first 22E. Had a Problem with the mixer the first month. It just quit powering the tail motor all together. Oh well guess I will fly later I am going to use a different mixer that my local hobby store stocks. Unfortunately they didn't have any today.

zacc

i have been checking out my 22e and noticed that the tail motor keeps speeding up and slowing down , is there any adjustments to fix or is the mixer carpoot?

acebusa

Thats what mine started doing than it got worse and worse. I wouldn't immediately assume a bad mixer although it most likely is. I tried moving both adjustments on mine, and it didn't change. It could also be the wiring or tail motor, the motor sucks also. I am working on a fix for that by this week end. To check that the wiring, and motor are good, (as long as your main motor run smooth.) connect the tail motor to e main motor connector, and set the throttle to 50%. see if the tail runs smooth. if so your wiring and motor are good. Than I would hook everything back to stock, and try moving the limit, and delay. Also I would try tapping on your mixer also as this ticked mine off.

zacc

buy the time i have finished i will be a full bottle on every thing. now another question , the small blades , spatualas are they surpose to be straight or tilted?
thanks

Ah Clem

The small blades (control paddles) should be parallel to each other and the flybar cage. When the swashplate is level, the paddles should be also.

On the mixer board issue, let me know how you make out. I have seen one, which obviously appeared to be the mixer board, but the problem was in the Tx. On of the white wires from the battery pack was not soldered correctly in the transmitter back. The bale from the left stick would catch on the wire and everytime left rudder (this was a Mode II Tx) was applied, it would disconnect the battery momentarily. The resulted in some very spectacular and undesired piroutting. The clue was that the lamp/meter on top of the TX went out when left rudder was applied.

20 flights now and the machine is still performing well!

acebusa

I tried to put a blade cp 4 in 1 mixer on last night, swaped crystals, and the walkera reciever wouldnt comunicate with the mixer????????help

acebusa

Can you only use a mixer from the same manufacture as the tx?

Ah Clem

It would seem the the Walkera Rx is proprietary, I suspect that the TX is also. I have read a lot of threads stating that they will not work with anything else.

I have not tried yet.

acebusa

That sucks! that rx was $70 I dont want to buy a tx now. Im going to the hobby store to try some other stuff.