First I had to set the incedence on bottom wing to match the horiz stab. Mine was off by a -1/2 degree. I spaced it and got it to zero.
Next I sset the upper wing in, it's incendence is set to -1 degree off the lower wing.
I then glued in the strut tabs. I held it all together with the tape while it dried.

The cabanes....

I had some that where misdrilled by the factory. So I redrilled and got them square on the center rib where I wanted them.
I also took off the excess center rib so mine blended smooth with the forward cabane strut.

These pictures show the center rib before and after. The slightly blurry picture showes where the stok struts would have ended up. THe sweep is top pointing forward. I didn't care much for this look.

I modified the struts to fit where the forward strut was more perpendicular to the fusalage. I also had to shorten the cross brace that was in my kit.

Here I am attaching the alerons to the wings. I chose to leave hte wings on the plane just because it gave me a place to work with.
Wife really doesn't mind me doing this in our living room either. [sm=biggrin.gif]

Ken what do you mean you glued in the strut tab's do you have a picture of the tab you can post.

I didn't get a picture of the tabs but I will get one tomorrow. In the mean time I will try to discribe.

The wing struts mount to 2 tabs on each wing. The strut slides down on the tabs and you bolt the strut through these tabs. If you look at this picture you can see the bolts in the struts. Just picture the tabs where those bolts are.


Actually I got around to getting the picture tonight.

Heres a shot of my wings and linkage so far

With wing done.

Hi Ken, I'm just getting around to wiring this bad boy up. Just looking for the right spot to put a few switches an things.

I might go with the front former since there is'nt that many choices.

I know how they attach i was asking if you had to glue in the tabs to the wings. thats the impression i got from your post.

Yes the tabs must be glued into the wings. This leaves a little flexibility in positioning things.

In case the user wants a little different incidence in the top wing, or if in manufacturing the alignment did not come out perfect this allows some adjustment during assembly to get everything exactly where you want it before finally gluing the tabs in.

TF

Yes, I glued the tabs into the wing.
Bottom wing first. I applied some thick CA into the wing then inserted the strut with the tab attached to the strut.

When it was dry I positioned my top wing to get the correct incedence. Then I used thick CA on the top tabs that are already secured to the strut and put on the top wing. I rechecked my incedenece and taped it in place.

After I was sure the tabs where secure I disassembled the struts from the wings and poured thin CA into the tab slots to secure them further.

FWIW, this is also covered in the manual.

Thanks guys i was just curious as to how they were attached. the 2 bipes i have. you have a stud that is screwed into the wings itself with a blind nut in which the top of it is machined flat to fit into the strut.

Is the incidence for both wings supposed to be 0deg? Compared to other Bipes I own this one seems to be much more simple. I bet it will easyily fly the wings off my Christen Eagles.

In the manual Tom suggests that the stab be zero'd then the lower wing zero'd to the stab and the upper wing at -1. He also states that you could leave the upper wing alone and build it as it is and there should be no problems. He does recommend the -1 for the top wing so that it stays flying a tad bit longer that the longer wing fopr slow landings.

Once I start mine I'm doing the -1 on the top.

Attached the Rudder and Elevators.

Installed the control horns.

On the Elevators and rudder, DRILL BEFORE INSTALLING. Much easier to get the holes square. If possible use a drill press.

Top wing. Had to cut my holes in the bottom for the wires to come through. Measure 6" from the leading edge and then make your holes. I goofed the right side and got it to far forward. This distance is NOT in the manual.

Here you can see the support wires installed. I used Sullivan kevlar instead of the stock stuff.

Fuel tank floor installed. Notice I pre located my tie straps for hte tank. I secured it with 5 minute epoxy.

Installed fuel line and tank.

You can also see where I am installing the choke and throttle servos and control rods.

Few new shots

More...

Mike:

1. Why is the rudder tiller bar bent?

2. That has to be the cutest child I have ever seen.

TF

and seems the snoopy goes well w/ the plane also.

Thank you, His name is Joshua and he's 1 year old know.

I had these control horns on my edge. When I drilled the holes for the rudder bar I went by your manual, I forgot that the control horns were already drilled and didn't want to run to the hobby store to pick up more, so I just bent each side to line up to the hinge line and screwed the horns in enough to match my 3" SWB arm on the servo. No slack in pull pull wires at full deflection.

Snoppy the flying ace has been my designated pilot since day one. He is also an incredible 3D pilot. Watch for his next video soon to come, Snoopy and his Wilhare Ultimate adventures.