Tom,
I asked this on another thread but I didn't get a reply so I thought I'd try here.

I'm getting ready to glue the wings together. I bought some Gorilla glue as suggested but how do you put it on and how much? I was thinking just a coat spread with a credit card. But do I slather it on or spread it as thin as possible? Do I need to coat the brace and the pocket, or can I just coat the brace and jam it in?

Thanks,
Mike

I'd say coat the brace as you planned with a credit card, and do what you can to spread some inside the wing but don't just pour it in there.

You should test fit everything first to be sure it will all go together before you spread glue and make a mess.

If you put too much in it will come oozing out of the joint, keep an eye on it and clean it off with acetone before it sets up.

TF

While on the subject of gorilla glue I was wondering if this has hapened to anybody else. When I hinged the surfaces I used gorilla glue/probond polyeurothane same stuff. I repeatly wiped the oosing glue with acetone. It worked awsome, but after the 20th or so flight I noticed that everwhere I used acetone on the white covering that the white covering started turning yellow. Is this normal? Would this have hapened if I had cleaned the acetone with alcohol?...Just curious if this has happened to anybody else?

I use denatured alcholol with no ill efects...

i used alcohol when i put my ultimate together and thought i was all set but I have the yellow spots as well cant seam to get them off I purchased more acetone for my next project

The Yellow spots are from the glue not being cleaned off compleatly. I've got some too.

I say fly it after a while it will have that flown scale look to it anyway

I put the blue painters tape along the wing trailing edge and the leading edge of the moving surface. I then cut the tape to reveal the holes. When the glue oozes out the acetone used for cleanup will only get on the tape. You also don't have to worry about getting all of the glue off as the tape with the dried glue will be removed. When all is dry just peel the tape off. It takes a little work right around the hinge pins but no glue residue left when complete.

A Man with a Plan

Pure genius. I'm always depressed when I run into someone smarter than I am.

TF

Here is another idea spray some WD-40 on a rag and wipe it on the covering. the glue cant stick to the WD-40

I do not believe that my yellow spots are from the glue. I used acetone to repeatibly wipe the glue. At one time I got caried away with the acetone and a little ran down the wing. I flew this plane 1-1-05 and it hung in my shed until 7-7-05. After about 20 flights In the sun on around 7-20-05 I noticed the yellow spots appear. They were only on the topside bevel and where the acetone ran down the wing. I never noticed any yellowing on the bevels on the underside. The underside was cleaned throughly with alcohol and clear monocoat was added to seal the gaps. It appears that the acetone residue and sun caused the yellowing. I will likely try the painters tape method next time.

PS; I just flew flight number 84 and love this plane (extra special bme 50) more and more each flight all my smaller planes are collecting dust

THe problem with the WD40 on a rag idea is if you try to wipe off the ooze with solvent on a rag you wipe off the oil, after that it sticks to the covering. The blue tape will not come off until you really want it to.

TF

The beauty of the WD-40 is no solvent is necessary! The foam just flakes off.

Mike,

Go to the Robart web site. It has a good video of how to install their hinges using Gorilla glue.

John

I did not use acetone or alchol and received the yellow spots. If you get a can of automotive brake cleaner and spray some ON A PAPER TOWEL with some elbow grease they will come off. The stain is from the glue

Dip the pivots of the hinges in heavy oil, wipe off the excess. Smear white grease on all bevels of the hinge line... don't get it in the holes! Squirt glue in all the holes, assemble, flex a couple times, and leave it alone. Afterwards just wipe everything down, the excess glue will flake off. The end result is a control surface that "flops" with no friction.

I just used 30 minute Epoxy to put in the Robart hinges,, has worked great so far,, not as messy,,

Hmm..... Thanks for all the tips.

I never thought of using this glue for the Hinge Points. I've been using RC-56 lately. Takes overnight to dry but cleans up with a damp rag and any "overflow" dries clear. I rough up the hinge with sand paper, clean with denatured alcohol, lube the pin and so far have never had an adhesion problem.... and it definitely sticks to the wood.

Mike

You use RC-56 to glue in your robart hinges,, the canopy glue RC-56

Well.... They call it canopy glue now because thats its most popular use but 15 years ago it was just another glue. In anycase, yes thats the one. Sticks to the plastic very well although I've never used it in a big 3D type bird before.

Works super on those nylon flat type hinges also. Gives plenty of working time too.

Mike

I like to melt some Vasoline and dip the pivots of the hinge in it, work it back and forth a little let it cool. I also take a bit of the liquid Vasoline on a paper towle and apply it to the covering around the hinge point hole. After the Gorrilla glue sets any extra pops right off the hinge joint and covering, I dont even have to baby sit it..


I seen this method online so I cant take credit for it, Just share it..

Got to love the Gorrilla Glue. My Uncle used that to put his vertical and horizontal stabilizer back on his H9 Solo. To my suprise it worked real well. Only part of the airplane that survived when he cartwheeled it down the runway.

Youse guys are missing the boat on the cleanup solvent to use. Both the gorilla and probond polyurethane glues are NON polar meaning in common everyday ordinary language that a polar solvent like acetone will not work as a solvent. The only thing that I have found that really works as a solvent on probond polyurethane is common grocery store "Goo Gone". It is a yellow liquid that contains a number of solvents and even smells okay too. Try some - youl'll see what I'm talking about.

Bobby

for those of you that have the yellow stains there is hope after several realy hot days out on the sun the yellow looked awful so i took a rasor blade and scrapped it off and yes ir did come off. Next time im ussing the tape idea