I just got the 85" cap 232 from wild hare.


everything has worked out pretty well aside from a few hinge holes that were drilled slightly off. The sheeting had a couple spots on the wing where it had been crushed. Just had to cut the covering back to reglue those.

the problem im running into now is that on my rudder pull pull system I cant get more than 25 degrees throw out of the rudder. The reason is that the pieces that come off the control stud hit the fuselage at 25 degrees. they arms have been trimmed to be in line with the hinge line and the control stud has been left at full length.

I cant seen any other option to get more throw out of this.

anyone else have this problem?

Where are you connections on the 8-32 stud? I have mine all the way out and I can almost get 50 degrees in either direction.

I have 1 thread past the top of the arm

Give us some pictures of the servo and rudder.

ill have to get the camera out and get them loaded.

That's some heavy duty hardware

Looks to me like you have to redrill the horn.. . hard to tell with the pic but it looks like the pivet part of the horn is past the hinge line. You want pivet point to be right inline with the hinge.

Also that looks like the 8/32 that goes through the rudder is a bit short. If you have a 3" servo arm you want the distance between the rudder control horns to be as close to 3" as possible. Looks to me like you have an inch of thread showing which is too little.

Chris, several choices, use a longer stud on the rudder and still keep it 1 to 1 ratio, or set the pivot point behind the hinge line and offset the servo arm. call Monday if you need to

I agree with murry, go get some 8-32 all thread. I bought the 4.5" SWB arm and I'm at 3.5" right now. I'd go get some 8-32 all thread, but I'm able to almost get 50 degrees either way so I think it's good for now.

1. Use a longer stud on the rudder, add 3/4" to each side.

2. Use the outer holes on the servo arm to make up for the longer rudder stud.

TF

Ok will do.

The rivot is right on the hinge line exactly. Now that yall mention it I think it does need a longer horn. Ill go to the hardware store tommorow and pick one up.
Thanks again,
Chris

yeah the threaded rod that i used on mine was longer.... in fact its sticking out 1 1/4" from each side of the rudder... a note of advice thou, keep the hole drilled low on the rudder or you will have problems with the elevators hitting the wires with 3D surfaces deflected

well the longer stud did the trick.

and I dont have an option as to where to drill the hole as the hardpoints are already in place. Looks like ill have plenty of room though.

Seems as though maybe the hole was drilled slightly closer to the hinge line on the bottom of the surface and further away on the top, is this correct? If so simply glue in a hardwood dowel in the hole, re-drill hole.
I had to do this on a rudder during assembly, since it was not glued on yet, I used my incidence meter and made sure the rudder was at 0° on my drill press and voila instant perpendicular hole.