Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Turn the ignition on and if it sparks just once and then no more you have a problem. Ignitions, like anything else, are not always perfect and sometimes something happens. It could be a hall sensor, it could be the ignition, it could be the cap.

dredknot

Texaspyro I had a problem just like that, it turn out to be my electric kill switch.Have you tried to plug the battery into the ignition with out the use of any switchs.
I found out that sometime the switch worked and sometimes it did not.I 2 was sure my ignition was getting power

texaspyro

My Feedback: (1)

Yes I have bypassed the switch. Same results, no sparky

rctom

Sure, anything is possible. It's highly unlikely that the pickup is bad, I've never seen one fail. More likely that unit has some problem, I'm happy to exchange it for you.

TF

texaspyro

My Feedback: (1)

Swung by Tom's yesterday and swapped out ignition modules for the TOC. Installed it last night and she started right up! I got a full day of flying today! This motor paired with the Wildhare 50cc Sukhoi fly like a dream! This plane fly so well! It actually makes me look like a better pilot! Tom's support is second to none, he stands behind every product he sells. I cant wait to grow out of this one and get the 35% Sukhoi!

thevirginian

Go get it, texaspyro. I did it the other way around. I got the big one first. Love both of them equally. You 'll love the the way the big one behaves. Not as "squirrly" as her little cousin.

ddotson

My Feedback: (3)

Thinking about hop up kit. Looking at my 3mm engine the carb has no external pulse nipple. I am sure the kit does not include carb???. BTW my carb and reed block has been off a while, just getting back to project. Need to know which way reed block mounts on inverted engine. Seem to remember one or two screws securing actual reeds. Should these be up or down, in other words screws to crankcase or cylinder. Not concerned about pulse port in reed block as I am modifying it similiar to hop up kit with external pulse line. So carb can be mounted in either position without concern about pulse port opening. Since I will have to add a nipple to the carb I guess I sort of answered my first question. Anyway need info on reed block position having read a lot about rotating the carb AND reed block for better performance. I have been expereniceing same problems mentioned in thread.
Thanks, Don

rctom

I have found that the engine runs better with the needles pointing towards the cylinder head which is opposite the way it comes from the factory,

HOWEVER

I don't know if the direction of reeds themselves matter, as I have never changed only the carb, I always change both parts as a unit. The reed block can go either way if you use an external pulse line.

We'd like to hear what happens.

TF

Sandy69

you do need to drill and tap for a pressure nibble on the side of the carb....if I can do it anyone can....picture is quite clear on location. Tom recommends rotating the carb so the arms are at the top, I did so (minor rebuilt of throttle and choke connections from servoes) Kit includes a new reed block - thicker to hold the V shaped double reed, and reed block is pre-drilled with pressure nipple installed.

Immediate increase of 200 RPM but I'm still running a bit rich

texaspyro

My Feedback: (1)

Quick question for y'all. I'm running the TOC 53 in my WH Sukhoi. I installed the hop up kit when I built the plane when the engine was new. Ive just now burned through my first gallon of fuel running the recommended 32:1 oil ratio. Im running a bunny 23/8 prop turning 6300-6350 rpm. My question is, is that a pretty normal rpm for this prop engine combo? I am just now starting to experiment with different props. Thanks for the help.

Ruski31

Your rpm should be more like 6700.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

That's a bit low. Have you tuned the engine at all? If not it's past time to do so.

texaspyro

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, i messed with the tuning for about an hour this afternoon. I saw very marginal improvements.

cap10b

Texaspyro,
Run it at 32:1 for a few more gallons its just not loose yet. The power will come on. I run a Menz Ultra 22X10 three blade at 6500. Thats allot of prop and the motor loves it and it does not lug or get hot.

jds

Sandy69

Tom, I've recently been having trouble getting my engine to start when cold, doesn't seem to be sucking the fuel up the line. I found the 2 carb bolts were slack by about 1/2 turn each...could that be the problem? Once we got the engine running and it warmed up it still runs great.

The weather is not cooperating so I haven't been able to try it and find if it helped.....

rctom

Loose carb bolts can definitely cause a problem like that.

TF

Sandy69

thank you sir

flybyme

Hi Tom, or anybody running a toc 53mm, I have about 3/4 of gallon thru my engine, and I'm getting aroung 6500 rpm, but on my maiden, as soon as my Edge V2 reached about 50 feet the engine died, I found that I had both needles set at 1 1/4 turn. I had great idle and good transition but it quit on my second attempt also....dead stick landing.....slid on spinner, nose to the pavement, no damage. After opening the high speed needle about an eighth of a turn, I took off again....4 minute flight, it was great, until I made a left turn and....dead stick, cut off again. I am near repairing this tough bird.....I Love It, but I need some guidance on keeping it running. I flipped my reed block and carb probably unneccessarily, but I don't want to flip it back for fear of stripping the threads of the carb bolts. I'm turning a bunny 22x8 prop, at 32:1 fuel ratio, with a good plug, fully charged batteries, and it runs great on the ground, idling and transition. I pulled up some instructions from BCMA and it said to start out with (H) at 2 turns and (L) at 1 3/8 turns, and adjust only between 1/4 turn either way. That didn't work either. This is my first gasser and I'm close, but where should I start with the needles and which way should I go?

Sandy69

I'm probably wrong, but I just checked my carb for you............H is out 2 1/4 turns and idle is out 2 1/2.........as I say I'm likely a minority but that where mine is, and engine runs absolutely great.

grossy2

Can anybody tell me what Walbro Carb # is on this engine?
I'm after the P/No for the Idle & Power needle.

Cheers
Grossy

Sandy69

10 - WAT is the number on my kit

Sandy69

Don't know if anyone is still using this engine or not. I am, but encountered a bit of a problem. I put a new carb kit in end of 2013 and engine never ran right after wards. Started great, idle fine and up to mid rang super. Go above mid throttle and engine would quit immediately - lean. Have 2 engines, same on both.

Spent a year doing everything but the 5 pound hammer trick to no avail. Had local engine sh ops check my rebuild; was fine. Sent several emails to Tom, to Walbro, several sites - lots of effort but no fix.

Put an old borrowed DA carb on, engine ran great. Had to give that back, original carb on, same old trouble.

Today i put a new DLE55 carb on - works like it used to. High end 7100 but pinch test showed lean so backed off to 6900, now great. Idle 1900. Transition is super...

Any one else experience anything like this or am I the only idjit??