LeeHunt

exciter900rr
Thanks for the reply, boy wish I had $6800 to spend that looks terrific. Had a thought the only difference from the JR to Hitec is the twisted servo lead the extensions are JR flat straight ones to eh Hitec twisted inlead, will try a twisted type lead and see if that fixes it. Can't see that 2 servos would be faulty from new.
You know this poor plane has done heaps of flights and to lose it to a glitch would be a great shame[&o][]
I have a small 2.12 compy with these sames servos in her and all is good bought them at the same time .
Lee

thevirginian

exciter900rr;
You mentioned you are changing the CG by moving it further back. Have you done so? Where was your CG before and where do you want it to be? I am looking forward to maiden mine this weekend (weather permitting) and would like a good reference to start off from. Thanks in advance for your help.
BTW, your bird in your vid looks awesome.

exciter900rr

Thanks ! I didn't really do much to "make it mine"- Just the regular kit with the graphics package. it is pretty huh? lol **I love it!!**

My C/G is dead center on the wing tube- I usually start right at the back of the recommended range, but this plane is just too pretty to risk a "too tail heavy maiden"
I don't know where I want the C/G to be, I let the plane tell me that- What I am looking for is a 45*inverted upline that is roughly 95% neutral. Just a touch- no wait- just a "breath" of down elevator to keep her inverted is where I want to be.

Another thing that will determine the C/G is how it behaves in KE after I have established the "right C/G"

I don't know if this is all right, but I have learned a lot from a lot, and have applied most of it, and it usually works. so I've stuck with it.

After all that hot air, I would say to set initial C/G in the middle of the tube- I would also leave some adjustment in where the batteries are mounted, so you can move them aft easily if it suits you. GOOD LUCK! KM

rctom

My first thought was the servo extensions also, they can cause this kind of problem.

TF

LeeHunt

Tom
Right will try these and let you know what happens. Do hope your right or I will just have to buy another one
Lee

Bdegan

OK, did some measuring of my engine, MT-57.
With the stock standoffs I get 6-15/16 from what would be the firewall to the back of the spinner plate.
That puts the spinner plate 1/8 of an inch in front of the cowl face. What would everyone recomend for a spacer to give additional clearance. 1/4, 3/8 ??
Also, would it be necessary to drill a hole in the center of the firewall for the carb to breath easier ?
If I add a 3/8 spacer, that puts the carb opening about 3/4 from the firewall.

Thanks

roboto65

My Feedback: (30)

Cut some hardwood squares or round dowel to the length you need and drill and mount behind your standoffs or take your standoffs out and cut the hardwood dowel to the length you need and drill and mount easy easy !!!!

Obee

I would add a little more space than the stated 1/8. Also beware of the right thrust and the difference it may cause in this measurement, the difference will be exaggerated by the prop.
Obee.

roboto65

My Feedback: (30)

Yeah I would also go a little further than an 1/8 also heck mine is about a 1" or so these big round cowls tend to like the prop further away from them !!!

rctom

I suggest that you finish the plane off without mimimum spacing and do a test balance. If the plane needs more weight in the front then space the engine out farther, this will shift the balance forward without adding weight. If the plane is already nose heavy space it out just far enough to get about 1/4" prop clearance on the right side with the prop horizontal.

TF

thevirginian

On my Sukhoi it looks like I have to shift batteries to the front to reach the correct CG location. Of course, my DL 50 is a lightweight, too. I don't think there is a problem ending up nose heavy withthis plane., unless you put a Zen-62 in it.

macboy65

Help!!! I need a fuselage ....Iam living in Uk.My Sukhoi crashed about my engine, but both wings are Ok.Whre can i buy just a simple fuselage???I wrote to Wildhare rc but they did not answer to me.
Thanks
Thomas Bakon

rctom

Then space the engine out as much as an inch ahead of the cowl to help it balance, won't hurt anything and may make the prop a bit more effective.

TF

rctom

Send email to [email protected], I'll try to help.

TF

thevirginian

Thanks Tom, I will do that. I maidened my Sukhoi today, all went well. It flew great, but I still was a tad on the tailheavy side. Did anybody add weight to the nose in order to be dead on with the CG? If I would have known that the DL-50 is such a feather weight I probably would have bought a differnent motor.

roboto65

My Feedback: (30)

If you move that motor out some that should make all the difference would not want to add any dead weight!!!

LeeHunt

Howdy people.
Yeah move the engine out, only has to be a little bit to make alot of difference.
Tried the twisted servo extensions to fix my glitch problem, no difference, so replaced the servos bought those new Hitec 79?? 24kg at 6v models, bit of an overkill but can use them later no doubt, put them in and this fixed the problem. My local (Darwin) hobby shop agreed to take the 59?? what ever they were back so not to much out of pocket.
Just glad its fixed. Really like the new servos they seem to have a real locked in feel about them, then again maybe its just me??
Happy Lee

exciter900rr

Great that you got it figured out Lee! You just never know where the electrical gremlins will hang out!

thevirginian

Hey, guys;
Anyone using a DA50 or DL50 in this airplane? How did you hook up the choke? If you don't want to use a servo to operate the choke, it's kinda tricky to hook up a push rod and extend it out with the way the carb is positioned. Any feed back with perhaps a picture is greatly appreciated.

n57tc

Ran my first one with a DL 50 and building the second with the DL 50.

Just added a removeable servo tray in front of the fuel tank (right behind the firewall) and put the throttle and choke servo's right next to each other. Worked great for me on the first one so I'm doing the same on the second one.

Or for the manual choke look at post #3007 in the DL50 thread Rigofly has excellent pictures of his setup in his GP Yak. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_64...21/key_/tm.htm


Jim

Obee

n57tc,
What happened to the first plane? This plane seems to make a big impression on people , as they replace them with the same plane. I know I will do the same.
Obee.

n57tc

Obee,

See my post #1272 in this Thread for the story.

I did buy another one off a fellow RCU er who did not want to build his.

Tom was still out of stock at the time. I have it ready for next year, the snow is here now so I have to wait to maiden it.

Jim

thevirginian

Thanks, n57tc
This is exactly the way I did my choke for right now, but I am adding a baffle to close the front of the cowl. That will only leave a V-shaped opening in front of the fins. I guess I have to find a different way. Worst case I have to go with another servo.

F-16WpnsTech

Can you folks tell me what size bit you're using to drill out the center of your props on the TOC 53? Thanks.

rctom

THe prop shaft is 10mm, most props come with the center hole already drilled to 10mm.