I have found a little dab of petroleum jelly on the tip if the valve stem helps with getting the keepers in place when putting the valves back in.

Without actually being there, it's hard to determine what "tight" is. does it spin freely with very slight drag?

Thanks Pete............Do you use a 'notched' type tool to depress the round spring retainer  sufficient to slip the keepers in place? there is not much room for error and Ive already lost one of the keepers as it flew around my kitchen pinging off the pots and pans sort of Davy Crockett like<div>
</div><div>The disc rotates freely with a uniform feel of friction all the way thru a rotation, in other words, its only slight but it is consistent, I assumed its the tightness of this fit  that helps to form the sealing effect. With the retaining screw  just 'nipped' up sufficiently tight the disc rotates just the same. There doesn't appear to be any difference in resistance with screw removed or fitted.</div><div>
</div><div>Regards Bob</div>

I actually have a pair of very old and worn needle nose pliers that I use. I turn them on their side open them up just wide enough to depress the retainer.

To depress the springs you can use the little valve adjusting key (with some force). Also, be sure to assemble the parts inside a transparent plastic bag so, the small spring retainers cannot be lost.

Gents............<div>
</div><div>A big thanks to you all for your help, Ive re assembled the engine and it started first go. Its been an interesting experience all round as I am not the most mechanically minded, I do however have a much clearer understanding of 'how things work' now especially the pressurized system and its importance to the engine as a whole. If anyone else with limited knowledge or confidence is reading thru and has any inclination to service their own 110s or 115 then go ahead, you will gain a really good insight as to how it works.</div><div>
</div><div>
</div><div>Merry Christmas to New Year to all</div><div>
</div><div>
</div><div>Bob Vaughan.</div>

Ive now run 4 tankfulls thru and my current settings are 1and a half turns out on main needle, three on the low and the regulator is a quarter turn in from flush, sounds slightly rich in middle and top end but tickover @ 1900 ish is consistent. <div>
</div><div>
</div><div>Bob</div>

Sounds like you did a good job.

Merry Christmas

Pete........../ Gents

I finally had chance to refit the engine back into the airframe but forgot to mention that although the engine went back together fine and started first go there's a slight '' tapping/knock x 2'' noise during a rotation of the crankshaft (not running-hand turned), it feels I suspect, in the bottom of the valve stems area, the cam lifting process at a guess, ................thing is, I cannot remember if the sound has changed since my repair , anyone with a 110s have a quick listen to theirs and reply back?

The cam gear and journals were unmarked and both cam lifting rods and followers were cleaned before re fitting so i'm pretty sure they are n't binding in anyway. Having spent &pound;150 or so I dont want to spoil my efforts..............


Thanks again

Bob V<br type="_moz" />

The lash in the valve train will cause clicking when you pull it through by hand. Hard to tell exactly if that is the sound you are hearing or if it's something else without being there.