YS 110s problem
11-28-2011 | 10:57 AM
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From: NottinghamNottinghamshire, UNITED KINGDOM
YS 110s problem
I have had my YS 110s for 2 years or so during which time it usually ran very well apart from the usual novice 'fuel line/ pressure valve/ and regulator issues' which I've now got my head around and so they happen much less frequently. A few weeks ago I noticed a rather harsher sounding engine note which lasted for a few minutes and then seemed to sort itself out but unfortunately it eventually stopping running properly. To cut a long story short, it now seems to have very low compression and will not pressurize the fuel tank despite the valve functioning correctly and therefore will only run for a few seconds at most (fuel shortage at a guess). I decided to strip down the engine to check for any obvious problems with valves, piston ring and bore, and bearings. On removing the air box , crankshaft back plate and carburetor assembly together with the complete head and valve assemblies I can now remove the piston and can clearly see that both the piston and bore are heavily scored. The conrod bearings are smooth with no visible signs of damage, the small amount of oil that was collected around the crankshaft area was clean with no visble metal swarf, and the bearings feel pretty good with no notching or tightness. At a guess, a glow plug element parted company about the time of the initial engine problem as I remember having to change the plug during that session. I'd appreciate a little help with the following........
Am I correct in assuming that the heavy scoring to piston, ring, and bore will account for the lack of compression and therefore tank pressure?
That means a new head, piston and ring?. plus ancillory seals and gaskets?
I am at the stage where I have two pieces of engine, the head with valve assemblies still attached, and the 'bottom half' with crankshaft, prop driver assembly, front and rear bearings and the crank shaft ring still in place. To remove crankshaft completely from case is it just a case of a smartish tap with a hammer shaft to release the shaft backwards or is there some other internal fixing that's stopping the crankshaft from being withdrawn?
Ive read the tech.flyswg.org article which gives a good description of the re-assembly process, but not a detailed description of the actual complete strip down.
Thanks for your patience..........any other advice would be appreciated as well.
Bob Vaughan, Mansfield, UK.
Am I correct in assuming that the heavy scoring to piston, ring, and bore will account for the lack of compression and therefore tank pressure?
That means a new head, piston and ring?. plus ancillory seals and gaskets?
I am at the stage where I have two pieces of engine, the head with valve assemblies still attached, and the 'bottom half' with crankshaft, prop driver assembly, front and rear bearings and the crank shaft ring still in place. To remove crankshaft completely from case is it just a case of a smartish tap with a hammer shaft to release the shaft backwards or is there some other internal fixing that's stopping the crankshaft from being withdrawn?
Ive read the tech.flyswg.org article which gives a good description of the re-assembly process, but not a detailed description of the actual complete strip down.
Thanks for your patience..........any other advice would be appreciated as well.
Bob Vaughan, Mansfield, UK.
11-28-2011 | 11:08 AM
#2
My Feedback: (58)
RE: YS 110s problem
ORIGINAL: BobV1700
I have had my YS 110s for 2 years or so during which time it usually ran very well apart from the usual novice 'fuel line/ pressure valve/ and regulator issues' which I've now got my head around and so they happen much less frequently. A few weeks ago I noticed a rather harsher sounding engine note which lasted for a few minutes and then seemed to sort itself out but unfortunately it eventually stopping running properly. To cut a long story short, it now seems to have very low compression and will not pressurize the fuel tank despite the valve functioning correctly and therefore will only run for a few seconds at most (fuel shortage at a guess). I decided to strip down the engine to check for any obvious problems with valves, piston ring and bore, and bearings. On removing the air box , crankshaft back plate and carburetor assembly together with the complete head and valve assemblies I can now remove the piston and can clearly see that both the piston and bore are heavily scored. The conrod bearings are smooth with no visible signs of damage, the small amount of oil that was collected around the crankshaft area was clean with no visble metal swarf, and the bearings feel pretty good with no notching or tightness. At a guess, a glow plug element parted company about the time of the initial engine problem as I remember having to change the plug during that session. I'd appreciate a little help with the following........
Am I correct in assuming that the heavy scoring to piston, ring, and bore will account for the lack of compression and therefore tank pressure?
That means a new head, piston and ring?. plus ancillory seals and gaskets?
I am at the stage where I have two pieces of engine, the head with valve assemblies still attached, and the 'bottom half' with crankshaft, prop driver assembly, front and rear bearings and the crank shaft ring still in place. To remove crankshaft completely from case is it just a case of a smartish tap with a hammer shaft to release the shaft backwards or is there some other internal fixing that's stopping the crankshaft from being withdrawn?
Ive read the tech.flyswg.org article which gives a good description of the re-assembly process, but not a detailed description of the actual complete strip down.
Thanks for your patience..........any other advice would be appreciated as well.
Bob Vaughan, Mansfield, UK.
I have had my YS 110s for 2 years or so during which time it usually ran very well apart from the usual novice 'fuel line/ pressure valve/ and regulator issues' which I've now got my head around and so they happen much less frequently. A few weeks ago I noticed a rather harsher sounding engine note which lasted for a few minutes and then seemed to sort itself out but unfortunately it eventually stopping running properly. To cut a long story short, it now seems to have very low compression and will not pressurize the fuel tank despite the valve functioning correctly and therefore will only run for a few seconds at most (fuel shortage at a guess). I decided to strip down the engine to check for any obvious problems with valves, piston ring and bore, and bearings. On removing the air box , crankshaft back plate and carburetor assembly together with the complete head and valve assemblies I can now remove the piston and can clearly see that both the piston and bore are heavily scored. The conrod bearings are smooth with no visible signs of damage, the small amount of oil that was collected around the crankshaft area was clean with no visble metal swarf, and the bearings feel pretty good with no notching or tightness. At a guess, a glow plug element parted company about the time of the initial engine problem as I remember having to change the plug during that session. I'd appreciate a little help with the following........
Am I correct in assuming that the heavy scoring to piston, ring, and bore will account for the lack of compression and therefore tank pressure?
That means a new head, piston and ring?. plus ancillory seals and gaskets?
I am at the stage where I have two pieces of engine, the head with valve assemblies still attached, and the 'bottom half' with crankshaft, prop driver assembly, front and rear bearings and the crank shaft ring still in place. To remove crankshaft completely from case is it just a case of a smartish tap with a hammer shaft to release the shaft backwards or is there some other internal fixing that's stopping the crankshaft from being withdrawn?
Ive read the tech.flyswg.org article which gives a good description of the re-assembly process, but not a detailed description of the actual complete strip down.
Thanks for your patience..........any other advice would be appreciated as well.
Bob Vaughan, Mansfield, UK.
You will need to pull the thrust washer before removing the crank, Central Hobbies sells a tool for that purpose but I know a few guys who have used small gear pullers and battery terminal pullers as well. Once that is off and you have the connecting rod out you can knock the crank loose. I usually use a block of oak. so I don't damage the prop nut.
I would also look at the passages in the crankcase for the regulator to make sure noting is blocking them as even with low compression you should get pressure in the tank.
Pete
11-29-2011 | 07:06 AM
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From: NottinghamNottinghamshire, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: YS 110s problem
Pete <div>
</div><div>Thanks for your reply above............I've now removed all valve parts from head and note that the valve seats appear to be OK, and having removed the prop driver Ive now taken out crank shaft. The crankshaft journals/bearing surfaces are Ok with no scoring or obvious wear but the rear bearing has a definite 'notch' moment on turning. The front bearing seems fine. You remarked on the crankcase pressure regulator. Ive tried putting a fuel line on the nipple but cannot breath thru it at all (the front and rear bearings are still in place) so its clearly blocked. Any thoughts?</div><div>
</div><div>To properly flush out any minute particle debris, I'm still assuming that the glow plug element broke at some point as I cannot find any other explanation, how would you suggest I proceed from here? Just wash everything in warm soapy water and then thoroughly dry every thing with a hairdryer? and obviously fit all new parts as required.</div><div>
</div><div>How do I clean the carbon off the valve stems and seats, someone suggests regrinding the seats again, if so how?</div><div>
</div><div>Part list so far.</div><div>
</div><div>Piston and ring, New Cylinder Head, Rear C/Shaft bearing, O ring set, Gasket set.</div><div>
</div><div>Thanks for you time...........</div><div>
</div><div>Regards Bob Vaughan</div><div>
</div><div>
</div>
</div><div>Thanks for your reply above............I've now removed all valve parts from head and note that the valve seats appear to be OK, and having removed the prop driver Ive now taken out crank shaft. The crankshaft journals/bearing surfaces are Ok with no scoring or obvious wear but the rear bearing has a definite 'notch' moment on turning. The front bearing seems fine. You remarked on the crankcase pressure regulator. Ive tried putting a fuel line on the nipple but cannot breath thru it at all (the front and rear bearings are still in place) so its clearly blocked. Any thoughts?</div><div>
</div><div>To properly flush out any minute particle debris, I'm still assuming that the glow plug element broke at some point as I cannot find any other explanation, how would you suggest I proceed from here? Just wash everything in warm soapy water and then thoroughly dry every thing with a hairdryer? and obviously fit all new parts as required.</div><div>
</div><div>How do I clean the carbon off the valve stems and seats, someone suggests regrinding the seats again, if so how?</div><div>
</div><div>Part list so far.</div><div>
</div><div>Piston and ring, New Cylinder Head, Rear C/Shaft bearing, O ring set, Gasket set.</div><div>
</div><div>Thanks for you time...........</div><div>
</div><div>Regards Bob Vaughan</div><div>
</div><div>
</div>
11-29-2011 | 07:33 AM
#4
My Feedback: (58)
RE: YS 110s problem
Bob,
There is a brass bushing that rides between the crank and the hole for the regulator feed, some engines were affected where that bushing would rotate for some odd reason and block the passage. If that is the case you might want to contact your YS agent about repair or replacement.
As for cleaning everything, I use raw fuel or isopropyl for cleaning as it does not attack anything. Cleaning the carbon off the valves is easily accomplished by using an exacto knife and lightly scraping until clean, again I use a bin of raw fuel to submerged the valve in while I do this.
You could use baking soda or toothpaste for lapping of the valves if you think it necessary, but unless they are not sealing I would not bother.
Pete
There is a brass bushing that rides between the crank and the hole for the regulator feed, some engines were affected where that bushing would rotate for some odd reason and block the passage. If that is the case you might want to contact your YS agent about repair or replacement.
As for cleaning everything, I use raw fuel or isopropyl for cleaning as it does not attack anything. Cleaning the carbon off the valves is easily accomplished by using an exacto knife and lightly scraping until clean, again I use a bin of raw fuel to submerged the valve in while I do this.
You could use baking soda or toothpaste for lapping of the valves if you think it necessary, but unless they are not sealing I would not bother.
Pete
11-29-2011 | 10:46 AM
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From: NottinghamNottinghamshire, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: YS 110s problem
Pete..........Is it likely that the blocked crank case vent has anything to do with the main problem, it seems to be very much coincidental?<div>
</div><div>Thanks Bob </div>
</div><div>Thanks Bob </div>
11-29-2011 | 06:13 PM
#7
My Feedback: (2)
RE: YS 110s problem
ORIGINAL: petec
Scoring will cause your compression to drop since the air will look for a way out and find it in the scoring. A ring and cylinder at minimum are needed if the piston got away unscathed, if not then yes a piston too.
You will need to pull the thrust washer before removing the crank, Central Hobbies sells a tool for that purpose but I know a few guys who have used small gear pullers and battery terminal pullers as well. Once that is off and you have the connecting rod out you can knock the crank loose. I usually use a block of oak. so I don't damage the prop nut.
I would also look at the passages in the crankcase for the regulator to make sure noting is blocking them as even with low compression you should get pressure in the tank.
Pete
ORIGINAL: BobV1700
I have had my YS 110s for 2 years or so during which time it usually ran very well apart from the usual novice 'fuel line/ pressure valve/ and regulator issues' which I've now got my head around and so they happen much less frequently. A few weeks ago I noticed a rather harsher sounding engine note which lasted for a few minutes and then seemed to sort itself out but unfortunately it eventually stopping running properly. To cut a long story short, it now seems to have very low compression and will not pressurize the fuel tank despite the valve functioning correctly and therefore will only run for a few seconds at most (fuel shortage at a guess). I decided to strip down the engine to check for any obvious problems with valves, piston ring and bore, and bearings. On removing the air box , crankshaft back plate and carburetor assembly together with the complete head and valve assemblies I can now remove the piston and can clearly see that both the piston and bore are heavily scored. The conrod bearings are smooth with no visible signs of damage, the small amount of oil that was collected around the crankshaft area was clean with no visble metal swarf, and the bearings feel pretty good with no notching or tightness. At a guess, a glow plug element parted company about the time of the initial engine problem as I remember having to change the plug during that session. I'd appreciate a little help with the following........
Am I correct in assuming that the heavy scoring to piston, ring, and bore will account for the lack of compression and therefore tank pressure?
That means a new head, piston and ring?. plus ancillory seals and gaskets?
I am at the stage where I have two pieces of engine, the head with valve assemblies still attached, and the 'bottom half' with crankshaft, prop driver assembly, front and rear bearings and the crank shaft ring still in place. To remove crankshaft completely from case is it just a case of a smartish tap with a hammer shaft to release the shaft backwards or is there some other internal fixing that's stopping the crankshaft from being withdrawn?
Ive read the tech.flyswg.org article which gives a good description of the re-assembly process, but not a detailed description of the actual complete strip down.
Thanks for your patience..........any other advice would be appreciated as well.
Bob Vaughan, Mansfield, UK.
I have had my YS 110s for 2 years or so during which time it usually ran very well apart from the usual novice 'fuel line/ pressure valve/ and regulator issues' which I've now got my head around and so they happen much less frequently. A few weeks ago I noticed a rather harsher sounding engine note which lasted for a few minutes and then seemed to sort itself out but unfortunately it eventually stopping running properly. To cut a long story short, it now seems to have very low compression and will not pressurize the fuel tank despite the valve functioning correctly and therefore will only run for a few seconds at most (fuel shortage at a guess). I decided to strip down the engine to check for any obvious problems with valves, piston ring and bore, and bearings. On removing the air box , crankshaft back plate and carburetor assembly together with the complete head and valve assemblies I can now remove the piston and can clearly see that both the piston and bore are heavily scored. The conrod bearings are smooth with no visible signs of damage, the small amount of oil that was collected around the crankshaft area was clean with no visble metal swarf, and the bearings feel pretty good with no notching or tightness. At a guess, a glow plug element parted company about the time of the initial engine problem as I remember having to change the plug during that session. I'd appreciate a little help with the following........
Am I correct in assuming that the heavy scoring to piston, ring, and bore will account for the lack of compression and therefore tank pressure?
That means a new head, piston and ring?. plus ancillory seals and gaskets?
I am at the stage where I have two pieces of engine, the head with valve assemblies still attached, and the 'bottom half' with crankshaft, prop driver assembly, front and rear bearings and the crank shaft ring still in place. To remove crankshaft completely from case is it just a case of a smartish tap with a hammer shaft to release the shaft backwards or is there some other internal fixing that's stopping the crankshaft from being withdrawn?
Ive read the tech.flyswg.org article which gives a good description of the re-assembly process, but not a detailed description of the actual complete strip down.
Thanks for your patience..........any other advice would be appreciated as well.
Bob Vaughan, Mansfield, UK.
You will need to pull the thrust washer before removing the crank, Central Hobbies sells a tool for that purpose but I know a few guys who have used small gear pullers and battery terminal pullers as well. Once that is off and you have the connecting rod out you can knock the crank loose. I usually use a block of oak. so I don't damage the prop nut.
I would also look at the passages in the crankcase for the regulator to make sure noting is blocking them as even with low compression you should get pressure in the tank.
Pete
Skids
11-30-2011 | 08:19 AM
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From: NottinghamNottinghamshire, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: YS 110s problem
Pete,<div>
</div><div>Ive removed both bearings now and can see that the rear bearing cage (some sort of hard plastic material) has partly broken, which probably explains the damaged piston, ring and bore damage. I noted that there is no damage to the valve facings which would have shown more if it had been the glow plug element breaking off damaging the 'top end' rather than the 'bottom end' which it clearly has. </div><div>
</div><div>The brass insert sleeve just behind the front oil seal is clearly visible with the crank pressure hole close to the 10 minutes past the hour position. I can' t tell where it should be but the pressure hole is completely blocked and not allowing any air to pass. </div><div>
</div><div>1) Is it possible to heat up the crankcase and thus allow re-alignment of the brass sleeve and hole or is a return to dealer job?.</div><div>
</div><div>2) In view of possible complete rebuild does the front oil seal need to be removed (and how)?.</div><div>
</div><div>Gents. I appreciate your help here as I'm a pensioner and could do with spending only enough to do the job properly.</div><div>
</div><div>Thanks Bob Vaughan</div><div>
</div><div> </div><div>
</div>
</div><div>Ive removed both bearings now and can see that the rear bearing cage (some sort of hard plastic material) has partly broken, which probably explains the damaged piston, ring and bore damage. I noted that there is no damage to the valve facings which would have shown more if it had been the glow plug element breaking off damaging the 'top end' rather than the 'bottom end' which it clearly has. </div><div>
</div><div>The brass insert sleeve just behind the front oil seal is clearly visible with the crank pressure hole close to the 10 minutes past the hour position. I can' t tell where it should be but the pressure hole is completely blocked and not allowing any air to pass. </div><div>
</div><div>1) Is it possible to heat up the crankcase and thus allow re-alignment of the brass sleeve and hole or is a return to dealer job?.</div><div>
</div><div>2) In view of possible complete rebuild does the front oil seal need to be removed (and how)?.</div><div>
</div><div>Gents. I appreciate your help here as I'm a pensioner and could do with spending only enough to do the job properly.</div><div>
</div><div>Thanks Bob Vaughan</div><div>
</div><div> </div><div>
</div>
12-01-2011 | 03:24 AM
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From: Manchester, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: YS 110s problem
Hi Bob,
I've just been reading through your posts on RC Universe.
I checked my old crancase. The brass sleave within the crancase which the crankshaft runs in, has a hole.
The hole is located, if looking at the crankcase from the front, directly inline with the brass ball on the outside of the crankcase. Or at 3 O'clock, hole inline with the little hand.
It looks like on your crankcase, the brass sleave has rotated somehow ?
My old crankcase, you can blow through the nipple to the regulator and air flows freely into the crankcase.
Probably worth buying a new crankcase, dont try to fix the old one, as if it goes again, you may be back to square one. I understand this is more expence.
Regards,
Mike.
I've just been reading through your posts on RC Universe.
I checked my old crancase. The brass sleave within the crancase which the crankshaft runs in, has a hole.
The hole is located, if looking at the crankcase from the front, directly inline with the brass ball on the outside of the crankcase. Or at 3 O'clock, hole inline with the little hand.
It looks like on your crankcase, the brass sleave has rotated somehow ?
My old crankcase, you can blow through the nipple to the regulator and air flows freely into the crankcase.
Probably worth buying a new crankcase, dont try to fix the old one, as if it goes again, you may be back to square one. I understand this is more expence.
Regards,
Mike.
12-01-2011 | 05:10 AM
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From: MilduraVictoria, AUSTRALIA
RE: YS 110s problem
Hi Bob,
Your problem with the rotated brass bush can be fixed, I have done several of them for Aussie YS owners, and have not had one do it again.
I havn't worked out why this happens to to the odd motor, most of the ones I've repaired were new engines that would'nt start.
You treat the brass ring as a front bearing removal, the only differance is the crankcase has to heated up more.
And it is more critical to get the bush back into the correct position and aligned straight or it will be a real pain to reheat and remove again,
remember the crankcase has to be very hot, a good heat gun is a good tool to use for heating.
YS Service down under
Your problem with the rotated brass bush can be fixed, I have done several of them for Aussie YS owners, and have not had one do it again.
I havn't worked out why this happens to to the odd motor, most of the ones I've repaired were new engines that would'nt start.
You treat the brass ring as a front bearing removal, the only differance is the crankcase has to heated up more.
And it is more critical to get the bush back into the correct position and aligned straight or it will be a real pain to reheat and remove again,
remember the crankcase has to be very hot, a good heat gun is a good tool to use for heating.
YS Service down under
12-01-2011 | 06:24 AM
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From: NottinghamNottinghamshire, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: YS 110s problem
Xmans.............<div>
</div><div>Thanks for your reply , could you please describe how in a little more detail. Presumably heat up the case, 'drift' the brass sleeve out a little enough to nip with fine pliers, re align with the outer brass nipple (15 past the hour, its 10 past at the moment) and tap back in. Can you remember how easily it is to turn and push back in?, any other clues will help. </div><div>
</div><div>
</div><div>regards Bob</div>
</div><div>Thanks for your reply , could you please describe how in a little more detail. Presumably heat up the case, 'drift' the brass sleeve out a little enough to nip with fine pliers, re align with the outer brass nipple (15 past the hour, its 10 past at the moment) and tap back in. Can you remember how easily it is to turn and push back in?, any other clues will help. </div><div>
</div><div>
</div><div>regards Bob</div>
12-01-2011 | 06:32 AM
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From: NottinghamNottinghamshire, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: YS 110s problem
Xmans.............. <div>
</div><div>Just thinking on, if I remove the brass sleeve completely, slightly enlarge the hole in the brass sleeve by drilling out, which should make refitting position slightly less critical yet not allow any increase in volume?<div>
</div><div>
<div>
</div><div>
</div><div>Thanks Bob</div></div></div>
</div><div>Just thinking on, if I remove the brass sleeve completely, slightly enlarge the hole in the brass sleeve by drilling out, which should make refitting position slightly less critical yet not allow any increase in volume?<div>
</div><div>
<div>
</div><div>
</div><div>Thanks Bob</div></div></div>
12-01-2011 | 10:32 AM
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From: NottinghamNottinghamshire, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: YS 110s problem
No problem Pete thanks for your time....................given the amount of heat used to remove the rear, brass sleeve, and front bearings (three heating sessions) is the rubber oil seal likely to be OK, it looks fine, surprisingly!.<div>
</div><div>Thanks </div><div>
</div><div>Bob</div>
</div><div>Thanks </div><div>
</div><div>Bob</div>
12-02-2011 | 04:38 AM
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From: MilduraVictoria, AUSTRALIA
RE: YS 110s problem
Bob,
You are thinking along the right track, when the case is hot enough the bush will virtualy drop out, you can gently help it along by making a drift, but don't force it.
I find its best to remove the bush and refit it, the good thing about this way is that the bush is cold and the case is hot, very hot, more clearance so it drops right in, but you must be accurate in doing so first time before the bush gets hot, otherwise the bush will be misaligned, not only in the holes not lining up but the bush can go part way in and twist a bit and jam up, then it becomes a real b-t-h to remove again.
You could make up a jig to reinstall the bush.
You really have to think about what you are going to do, and how you are going to do it before you start, and imagine several times in your mind about how it will be done.
Its not rocket science, just be prepared.
YS Service down under
You are thinking along the right track, when the case is hot enough the bush will virtualy drop out, you can gently help it along by making a drift, but don't force it.
I find its best to remove the bush and refit it, the good thing about this way is that the bush is cold and the case is hot, very hot, more clearance so it drops right in, but you must be accurate in doing so first time before the bush gets hot, otherwise the bush will be misaligned, not only in the holes not lining up but the bush can go part way in and twist a bit and jam up, then it becomes a real b-t-h to remove again.
You could make up a jig to reinstall the bush.
You really have to think about what you are going to do, and how you are going to do it before you start, and imagine several times in your mind about how it will be done.
Its not rocket science, just be prepared.
YS Service down under
12-02-2011 | 09:07 AM
#16
RE: YS 110s problem
I haven't looked this over yet, but is there some reason why you can't simply drill a new hole? I doubt that an extra hole will hurt anything unless the bushing turns again. shouldn't be too tough to deburr the new hole.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
12-02-2011 | 09:35 AM
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From: NottinghamNottinghamshire, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: YS 110s problem
Still4<div>
</div><div>That was one of the first ideas I came up with but the new hole would have to be drilled thru the crankcase, probably straight through the little brass button situated just below the pressure nipple and then it would need to be 'stopped' or resealed off once the correct airway had been re-established in order that the crankcase pressure is maintained and routed correctly.<div>
</div><div>I've removed the brass sleeve from the crankcase quite easily, apart from 'burring' one edge slightly. I'm thinking that the biggest difficulty will be in getting it correctly aligned with the existing hole, driving the sleeve back in squarely, and doing it very quickly and in 'one go' as XMANS suggests.</div><div>
</div><div>I'm thinking of a wood dowel fitted tightly into the brass sleeve with a 'shoulder or step' the same diameter as the brass sleeve. If the dowel is 6 - 8'' or so in length I should have enough control to make handling and placement manageable. I take Xmans point about getting it right first time as the temps will be quickly acting against each other. I also think that I will enlarge the existing brass sleeve hole x 1 which will make the placement slightly less critical. </div></div><div>
</div><div>If anyone see's a big hole this plan please............sally forth!</div><div>
</div><div>Thanks to all so far.</div><div>
</div><div>
</div><div>Bob V</div>
</div><div>That was one of the first ideas I came up with but the new hole would have to be drilled thru the crankcase, probably straight through the little brass button situated just below the pressure nipple and then it would need to be 'stopped' or resealed off once the correct airway had been re-established in order that the crankcase pressure is maintained and routed correctly.<div>
</div><div>I've removed the brass sleeve from the crankcase quite easily, apart from 'burring' one edge slightly. I'm thinking that the biggest difficulty will be in getting it correctly aligned with the existing hole, driving the sleeve back in squarely, and doing it very quickly and in 'one go' as XMANS suggests.</div><div>
</div><div>I'm thinking of a wood dowel fitted tightly into the brass sleeve with a 'shoulder or step' the same diameter as the brass sleeve. If the dowel is 6 - 8'' or so in length I should have enough control to make handling and placement manageable. I take Xmans point about getting it right first time as the temps will be quickly acting against each other. I also think that I will enlarge the existing brass sleeve hole x 1 which will make the placement slightly less critical. </div></div><div>
</div><div>If anyone see's a big hole this plan please............sally forth!</div><div>
</div><div>Thanks to all so far.</div><div>
</div><div>
</div><div>Bob V</div>
12-02-2011 | 10:15 AM
#18
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From: NottinghamNottinghamshire, UNITED KINGDOM
RE: YS 110s problem
Guess what?.................if I use the crankshaft as the ' tool' ie mount the brass sleeve on the crankshaft and push it in from the front bearing end it fits perfectly, and if the hole is lined up with the con rod ' big end ' peg I can see precisely if it is lined up.<div>
</div><div>Hmm...........nothing could be that simple surely?
</div><div>
</div><div>Bob</div>
</div><div>Hmm...........nothing could be that simple surely?
</div><div></div><div>Bob</div>
12-02-2011 | 01:52 PM
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RE: YS 110s problem
Just a quick'un, ..........the crankshaft used as a 'tool' to refit the sleeve worked a treat. One little tap was all that was needed. There's even enough friction to hold the sleeve in line with the hole in the casting, the hardest part was working up enough nerve to do it!. Hope fully as Xmens says, it will stay fixed. Will re assemble with new parts and report back.<div>
</div><div>Many thanks to you all for your assistance.</div><div>
</div><div>
</div><div>Bob Vaughan</div>
</div><div>Many thanks to you all for your assistance.</div><div>
</div><div>
</div><div>Bob Vaughan</div>
12-05-2011 | 10:48 AM
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RE: YS 110s problem
Whilst just waiting for parts to arrive, the small screw that fits into the brass disc valve retainer, is it just tightened as all the others or is there any torqe implications please?<div>
</div><div>Regards Bob Vaughan </div>
</div><div>Regards Bob Vaughan </div>
12-12-2011 | 02:50 PM
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RE: YS 110s problem
Gents
Ive now started the rebuild and the 'bottom half' is done. Ive made my own gaskets, oiled all the parts, and everything feels nice and smooth. Anyone to advise how best to refit the valve spring collets........they are really small and fiddely?. One other thing, the rotating valve plate feels smooth enough, no notches or sticking moments, but even with the centre retaining screw removed its still feels slightly 'tight' when turning, presumably that's the sealing effect?
Thanks for your time.......................
regards Bob
Ive now started the rebuild and the 'bottom half' is done. Ive made my own gaskets, oiled all the parts, and everything feels nice and smooth. Anyone to advise how best to refit the valve spring collets........they are really small and fiddely?. One other thing, the rotating valve plate feels smooth enough, no notches or sticking moments, but even with the centre retaining screw removed its still feels slightly 'tight' when turning, presumably that's the sealing effect?
Thanks for your time.......................
regards Bob
