Hi,

Do you have any pictures from your plumbing setups for the Dingo engines with Ts etc?

There is a fuel line coming from the tank and going to the engine, I suppose I will have to place a T in between for refilling. What about the air line what do you do in such case? Should I follow a similar configuration to the illustration attached? This is what I have done to all my FZ type of engine till now, but DZ is another story.

Also something about my Hyde Soft Mount ARIA Type. Although it is bolted very tight with the six provided screws there is a noise when you move the mount with the hand up and down. Also the nose rubber ring after removing the engine some times for setting thrust etc. has become a bit loose compared to what it was in the past would that be a problem in the long run? What is the average lifetime of such ring?

Looking forward to replies,

Nikos

The dingos are setup fuel wise almost identical to the FZ engines. The only difference is the line from the check valve to the engine is either removed or left to hang. I still use a check valve in the vent line to keep fuel from running out of the tank when the tank is full and the model is nose down. Attached is a crude drawing of what I do on my tank setups. Basically its identical to the FZ drawing except the line to the pressure side of the regulator on an FZ engine is left loose or removed on the engine side of the check valve.

The ARI style mounts require a really still firewall. If your engine is moving up and down when bolted on then your firewall is not strong enough...perhaps this is the noise you are hearing. As for the nose ring fit it should be a loose slip fit I use tape on the front bearing housing of the engine to make sure there is no slop but it must fit loosely and allow rotation easily.

The rubber o-ring in the nose ring can be found at local hardware stores. Here in the US we have places like ACE Hardware, or True Value they carry these butyl o-rings. Any home improvement store should have them. Not sure about your country....but they should be available. Also you can order them from Central hobbies.

Troy Newman
Team YS

Hi Troy,

Thanks! Please see an illustration of my firewall and engine. The model is an X-Treme Composite OTOP F3A version, I don't think the firewall is not strong enough. Do you think that the mount may be faulty?

Any comments?

Thanks,

Nikos

I can't tell from a picture if its strong enough or not. What material is it made from. Obviously it has some CF on it but that doesn't mean it strong and stiff. It just means its pretty. To run the ARI style mount you need a very rigid firewall..The material choice would depend on how large the firewall is. A general rule would be it needs to be at least 1/4" thick aircraft grade plywood. For larger areas like a Smaragd, CA Model eclipse, or Genesis I think it needs to be even stronger than that. Maybe 2 pieces of 1/8th aircraft ply laminated with some CF or something.

You have to realize that the entire engine mass and force is being cantilevered from the firewall. So it needs to be strong. Can you move the spinner and get any flexing? If yes look at where the flexing is and I bet it is at the firewall.

I really don't like the Nose ring Incorporated mounts. I used one and did not like it. I also don't buy into the idea of the Type A mounts that don't need a nose ring. I use a nose ring on all my soft mounted engines. It prevents the thrust line from changing during pulls and pushes. This is very important in F3A flying. Installing a nose ring is easy....people seem to be intimidated by it. With a fuse mount nose ring then 1/8th aircraft grade ply is strong enough for a firewall. An addition of the nose ring mount is light maybe an oz max, and it strong and stiff. About 60% of the load is on the firewall and the other 40% is on the nose ring. Since the nose ring mount is in the extreme forward area of the nose the wood mount is small and attached to a strong part of the molded nose of the model.

In an ARI style mount 100% of the load and force is on the firewall. If it flexes the thrust line will change while you are flying. This is not the way to fly precise when trying to fly F3A. It is important to keep that thrust line fixed and still allow the engine to rotate. If the spinner wobbles at all when running then the thrust line is changing. You be able to look at the spinner while the engine is running and not tell the engine is on a soft mount.

My opinion is Merle makes the best soft mounts in the world. But the ARI versions are not them and they are very expensive. Heavier overall as the mount is heavy and the firewall must be heavier to support the load...and they are not for me. The regular AR style mounts is what I choose. The ARA is the aluminum beam version that is the light one. I use it with a fuse mounted nose ring.


Troy Newman
Team YS

Hi Troy thanks for your recent answer,

I have another two questions:

1. The clunk included with the engine how does it work really? It has a hole at the side of the fuel tube but not on the other side. Does it have to be changed after a number of flights? The sponge part of it seems very fragile to me.

2. I have noticed you insist on putting oil on the cam gear before the first start. Unfortunatelly I bolted the engine on and set up everything without doing this. Is it possibe to remove the valve cover and drop oil through the cam push rod followers from the valves?

Looking forward to your reply,

Thanks and regards,

Nikos

The foam clunk acts like a "fuel Magnet" the heli guys sue this. It becomes a buffer of fuel so if an air bubble hits the pickup line it will not go directly to the engine. The foam stays wet all the time it is in fuel so it acts to absorb air bubbles without letting them get into the line.

The foam is fairly fragile. if you leave fuel in your tank all the time. You should replace it about once a year. If you drain your tank when not flying it then it will last for a long time.

Troy Newman
Team YS

Hi Troy, thanks for your last answer.

The other day I had two dead sticks with my 160 DZ, after two successfull flights. In the morning the engine was running ok but very rich, mixture setting was 2 - 2 1/4 turns from fully closed. The two dead sticks happened in the afternoon when the temperature was higher, when engine was running at middle throttle it was ok as I pushed the stick at full throttle I noticed lots of smoke and a significant drop in RPM, then I had the flame out. Anyway, I was suggested to run it leaner about 1 3/4 from full closed. What do you think? The engine has about 5-6 tanks, I still try to break it in. The only issue I face is that even I run the engine very rich when I land is hot I can touch it but not for very long as with my other YS engines. I have checked the cowl openings both for inflow and outflow and the seem to be ok, their area analogy is about 1 to 3.

Final question, I have put a non return valve to the air vent of the tank and have attached some fuel tube to it. Both the NRV and the tube are inside the fuselage. Is that ok or I should open a hole on the fuselage and pass the fuel tube outside so that it "breathes" better?

Looking forward to your answers,

Thanks and regards,

Nikos

Depends on the NRV you have chosen...If it is a YS style check valve you are OK.


As for inside the fuse...it should be fine with a YS style check valve....Some versions out there are small ball types...the YS version is a light silicone flapper.

I would say your engine is very very rich.....at 2.5 turns open. But I don't know without hearing it....Peak it out and back off 200-300rpm from the peak valve.

The DZ engines have a very flat repsonse on the Needle valve and sometimes you can move 1/4 turn with little to no change in RPM....you want to be on the lean side of this flat spot...200-300rpm short of the Peak RPM


Troy Newman
Team YS

Hi Troy,

I face a slight problem with all my YS engines including the YS-160 DZ. When I am inverted and I try an upline from inverted, and then a humτpy bump, at the top of the HB where I push the elevator the engine seems to become very rich at full throttle and lots of smoke coming out. When I try an upline from straight and level at full throttle the engine pulls like a rocket, and don't notice any severe smoke.

Any explanation for that?

Something else, I currently use on my 160 an APC 16x12, I plan to replace it with a Mejzlik 17x10 (the best option would be 17x11 but is not available), on the other hand the 18x10 is quite big for my plane. Would you consider the Mejsliκ 17x10 a good prop or is it small? I know that the rommended prop is the APC 17x12, but Mejsliκ is about an oz lighter than APC.

Thanks and regards,

Nikos

Your High end needle valve is likely a touch too rich.

Prop choices will depend on your conditions and the model.

I have no experience with Mejsliκ but some folsk like them. I prefer the APC props for performance, cost, and replacement availability. Try the 16.5-12W or the 16.5-12 Another option si the 16.5-13 and 13W

Troy Newman
Team YS