YS 63s priming problems
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Hi, I have a 63s with about 6 tanks of coolpower 30% through it.
Problem I have is getting the fuel up at the beggining of each session. spinning it over on the starter just wont do the trick on its own, I have to wind the main needle out until its nearly falling out and then spin it over with my finger over the exaust to draw up the fuel like on a non pumped engine(dont know if this is really making any difference)
Once the fuel is up I have to reset the needle and after the first run everything is ok.
I used to have exactly the same problem with my old 120fz.
The only thing that I can think of is that I store my planes standing on their nose. I drain the tanks but dont run the engine dry at the end of the session. The plane gets flown once a week and the plumbing is all ok.
Any thoughts?
Jason
Problem I have is getting the fuel up at the beggining of each session. spinning it over on the starter just wont do the trick on its own, I have to wind the main needle out until its nearly falling out and then spin it over with my finger over the exaust to draw up the fuel like on a non pumped engine(dont know if this is really making any difference)
Once the fuel is up I have to reset the needle and after the first run everything is ok.
I used to have exactly the same problem with my old 120fz.
The only thing that I can think of is that I store my planes standing on their nose. I drain the tanks but dont run the engine dry at the end of the session. The plane gets flown once a week and the plumbing is all ok.
Any thoughts?
Jason
#2
Senior Member
Run them dry at the end of the session and you should not have the problem.
The oil is getting thicker and the colder temps is causing this.
Do this the next time.
Open the HS needle about 2-3 turns more open than your running setting. NO GLOW got to full throttle and spin the engine with an electric starter for about 20-30 secs. You should hear the pitch the engine change and "get wet" when doing this. Then dial your HS needle back to its running position, throttle to idle apply glow and it will fire right off.
Are you running the 30% heli performance? This is the Low Viscosity oil and has less of this problem. The oil is thinner.
What is happening is the fuel is sitting in the regulator and HS needle assembly. The methanol and Nitro evaporates and you are left with nothing but the oil. Since some of these passages are smaller like past the HS needle valve....the oil will not move through these passages as easily. So you have to get a little raw fuel and then is flushes straight past....
Running dry will help, only do this at idle rpms. Drain the tank, start it up and and run till it quits. Keep trying to start it at idle only....it will likely fire 3-4 times and might run for 30secs or more at a time. Just keep starting it until it will not even pop anymore. Now you have the fuel out of the engine and it will not suffer from the gunky oil syndrome.
Another helpful hint is to not store the more where it suffers from extreme temperature changes. If you can keep it in the house at a controlled temp. Leaving them in the garage at night in the winter when temps fall below freezing doesn't help this issue. The oil gets thicker like most fluids as the temps decrease. The extreme temperature changes can result in condensation in the engine going from the cold to the warmer temps and the result is you can get rust.
Troy Newman
Team YS
The oil is getting thicker and the colder temps is causing this.
Do this the next time.
Open the HS needle about 2-3 turns more open than your running setting. NO GLOW got to full throttle and spin the engine with an electric starter for about 20-30 secs. You should hear the pitch the engine change and "get wet" when doing this. Then dial your HS needle back to its running position, throttle to idle apply glow and it will fire right off.
Are you running the 30% heli performance? This is the Low Viscosity oil and has less of this problem. The oil is thinner.
What is happening is the fuel is sitting in the regulator and HS needle assembly. The methanol and Nitro evaporates and you are left with nothing but the oil. Since some of these passages are smaller like past the HS needle valve....the oil will not move through these passages as easily. So you have to get a little raw fuel and then is flushes straight past....
Running dry will help, only do this at idle rpms. Drain the tank, start it up and and run till it quits. Keep trying to start it at idle only....it will likely fire 3-4 times and might run for 30secs or more at a time. Just keep starting it until it will not even pop anymore. Now you have the fuel out of the engine and it will not suffer from the gunky oil syndrome.
Another helpful hint is to not store the more where it suffers from extreme temperature changes. If you can keep it in the house at a controlled temp. Leaving them in the garage at night in the winter when temps fall below freezing doesn't help this issue. The oil gets thicker like most fluids as the temps decrease. The extreme temperature changes can result in condensation in the engine going from the cold to the warmer temps and the result is you can get rust.
Troy Newman
Team YS
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Thanks for the reply Troy, yeah im running the performance coolpower and the planes are stored indoors.
I will try running them dry next time out and see how I get on. My normal starting procedure is how you describe.
Thanks
Jason
I will try running them dry next time out and see how I get on. My normal starting procedure is how you describe.
Thanks
Jason
#4

My Feedback: (20)
Troy, I'm having a simular problem except mine takes some cranking even after the first flight to get fired up. I do burn all the fuel out after each flying session and the 63 is the only engine I'm having this issue with.
My 140's and 160 work flawlessly.
thanks
Jeff
My 140's and 160 work flawlessly.
thanks
Jeff
#5
Senior Member
Put a little pressure in the tank to help get it started when you are fueling. About 2-4 extra cranks on a hand pump will do the trick... Then seal it up. This way when the regulaotr opens the tnak already has a little pressure in it.
Next is check the fuel filter and see if its partially blocked....
Troy Newman
Team YS
Next is check the fuel filter and see if its partially blocked....
Troy Newman
Team YS



