Ok so I fired up the 110 today and am absolutely blown away. The only thing that is really bothering me is the money I've spent on other engines, but you live and learn I guess

So anyway, the engine is running great. I followed the Troy Newman procedure of setting the high end, tuning the regulator to hold an even 4000rpm, and leaning out the air bleed to sustain a good 2000rpm idle. The engine is running fantastic, plenty rich using lots of fuel and leaving a beautiful white trail in the sky.

So my question is what to do next, obviously after a few more gallons of fuel. To lean out, should I just be concerned with the high side needle, or will everything need a bit of leaning out? Like I said, I am in no hurry to start leaning out but I do want to be prepared for when the time comes (with the amount of time I spend flying it really could be pretty soon [8D])

Thanks for all your help guys. The feeling I got today after I got all the adjustments made and had the engine purring at idle and roaring at WOT is absolutely priceless. I'm already thinking about selling other engines to get another 110.

There's nothing like a YS. Once it gets broken in it will need leaned out a little and mostly the high speed needle. It's not unusual for the air bleed and regulator to need a very small tweak too but you won't know until you get there. Just fly it and listen to what it is telling you as it breaks in and you'll be fine.

I'm not disagreeing with what PETEC said at all, he's absolutely right, but there's also an old adage mechanics like to repeat, you've probably heard it before, and it's still worth repeating....

IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T FIX IT!

If that 110 is purring, has power at WOT, and is leaving a nice smoke trail, I'd hesitate to change anything. If you do, make teeny tiny changes. I personally would rather burn a little extra fuel and leave that nice smoke trail knowing that the extra fuel mean extra oil, and that means extra lubrication and extra life to the engine. If you lean it out you may save a little fuel, but you may also shorten the life of the bearings. If it's running good, idling good, and transistions well, fly it!

Two well thought out responses....[8D]

May I add one more?

While there's certainly no reason to get the little beasty lean, it will require a bit of leaning as it breaks in and you can also lower the idle RPM if need be which was an issue for me as the models tend to taxi off when on pavement and running at 2000 RPM. They also exhibited a "reluctance" to land with the idle that high. Once they loosen up a bit, mine are quite happy with something in the 1700 RPM range with 16x6 APC props. I do find that there is usually a bit of adjustment on the high speed needle with significant ambient air temps like Winter to Spring and Spring to Summer temps usually require just a touch on the high speed. Please remember that it's not an OS or something and I'm talking about screwdriver blade widths when doing that, not 1/8th or 1/4 turns....

I also use a "flight idle" mix on my models since I went to GS gassers. I used to just click up the throttle trim on my glow models to fly and click it back down to land, now I just do a throttle/throttle mix on a switch to kick the idle up a few hundred or so RPM when flying. That way you can have the low idle on the ground and there's not much chance of it quitting in the air.

What about extra parts? What should every YS engine owner have in his field box, and at home?

I was about to order an extra diaphragm but figured there might be something else I should order.

It wouldn't hurt to have an extra diaphram, but you probably won't needit for a good while. Do keep a spare vave cover gasket or two on hand. They should be replaced when you adjust the valves. Any air leak at all in the YS gaskets will give you fits.
Paul

Should I switch to a soft mount? I was told that YS engines beat on servo pots.

What do you guys do for prop changes - tune everything, just the high and low end, or just the high end?