chadwickz71

My Feedback: (2)

I have a Dave Patrick ultimate that has a major problem. The elevator fin mounts through the center of the fusalage, right. Ok when i glued it in i noticed that it was not level. its about 3/4 of an inch off. YEAH, thats very bad. The problem is i couldn't probably have sanded the inside of the tail to square it up any. Anyways, i went ahead and built the plane but it flies HORRIBLE. When I pull back on the stick it will almost do a roll before it does a loop, I had no idea it would affect it SO MUCH. Do ya'll think Dave Patrick would send me a new plane, because this thing was SO OFF that its almost COMICAL.

thanks

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Possibly. But I think that you should have contacted Dave Patrick as soon as you found the problem and not wait until you built the plane and flew it. I've had 2 of the Dave Patrick Ultimates and both flew like a dream. Things happen in the manufacturing world and nothing comes out 100% all of the time, and I know that Dave Patrick does take care of the problems that do arise. There was a problem with the wood on one of the Ultimates that I had. A phone call, 3 days, and a UPS delivery had a replacement at my house. From what you have said, I don't think that the blame lies with Dave Patrick. I'm pretty sure he would have sent the replacement parts needed, but not replace an entire plane now.

Just putting my .02 worth in.

chadwickz71

My Feedback: (2)

yeah thats true, I really don't know of any way to fix the problem either. Do ya'll

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

I've had 2 Ultimates from Dave Patrick and didn't have any problems with mounting the tail feathers. Maybe if you could post a picture we can see what the problem is, and possibly have some advice to fix it.

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

RCKEN,

I have some very basic questions on engine setup for this Ultimate. Do you mind if I PM you with them as they are off topic?

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Bubba,
not at all. I'd be more than happy to help you if I can.

chadwickz71

My Feedback: (2)

Well i guess its worth a try to call. I bought it form Cermark. Should i call them or Dave Patrick....

WhtBronco

If you got the DPM Ultimate 40 from Cermark, DPM will not warranty the plane. Anyway I have the DPM Ultimate 40 and the slot for the horizontal stab was off on mine as well. It was about 1/2" from tip to tip. The wing was also out, and worse yet the other way. For the wing I added an 1/8� strip of balsa to 1 side of the wing saddle on the fuse which got the wing within 1/16� of begin square measued at the wing tips. For the tail I sanded and filled it appropriately until I got the tail close enough. The plane flies great. Even with an ARF you have be careful and ensure everything lines up correctly before the glue hits it. I’ve had the plane for over 2 years now and it has held up very well. I have not 1 problem to report on it.

I would suggest that even though DPM says the Saito .72 is too big that it is not too big an engine for this plane. Rather it is about perfect. There’s no way this plane would fly the way Dave says it will with a .46 2 stroke or a Saito .56. With a smaller engine it would have limited vertical I think. I don't think it would hover with my OS .46AX. Anyway that’s a personal choice.

chadwickz71

My Feedback: (2)

WHTBRONCO, What are throw values???

chadwickz71

My Feedback: (2)

Ok how about I shim up the wing on one side to make it level with the elevator. I know it sounds risky and the fusalage might fly a little crooked compared to the wings and tail but atleast they would be equal....

Rumple

Shimming the wing sounds crazy.

What did you glue the stab in with, epoxy? If so, there is a chance to remove it. You'll need another person to help, and a heat gun. Heat the glue joint up good and have the other person pull on the stab to get it out. (You may need to cut the elevator and hinges out). The epoxy will soften when heated, to a point that it is rubbery. That's when you can yank it out. But once heated, the epoxy will continue to react so you need to be quick and get it out the first time.

Then you can get to fixing the stab correctly.

chadwickz71

My Feedback: (2)

Yeah but the elevator is glued inside the tail pretty good. There is probably a good 2 inches of dept on either side that i would have to penetrate to heat the glue that far.

skyracer068

I've had that problem myself with my ultimate plus many more. I've called Dave many times in the last few months to only reach his answering machine with no return phone calls. His customer support practices are extremely poor. Does he have an e-mail address?

bruce88123

Couldn't find email but here is web site with phones, FAX, phone hrs, etc. Maybe it will help you.
http://www.davepatrickmodels.com/frame.htm

CGRetired

My Feedback: (1)

Would it be possible to use the heat method, and jam a shim in under one side and on top of the other side to help square the stab? Will the epoxy get soft enough for that? Perhaps heat it, lift it using some sort of wedge and push in a piece of wedge shaped balsa or hardwood to try to shim it?

Just a suggestion. At this point you have nothing to lose!

DS.

bruce88123

Wouldn't he need to remove material on the other side first so that it would have a place to go. It is mounted into a slot isn't it? I envision the fuse side splitting if the material was not removed first.[:@]

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Too much elevator throw will cause it to roll out of a loop too. Just for giggles, try reducing the throw.

bruce88123

I find that USUALLY too much elevator causes more like a snap-roll than a mere rolling action.

2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

OK, take the stabilizer out and start over. Get a heat gun, and get the joing really hot, the epoxy (I assume you used epoxy?) will soften and you will be able to pull the joint apart. Then, fix the problem. if you have to, glue some wood into the slot on the high or low side so that it will level it up and you will still have something to glue the stabilizer to. Does that make sense?
you may ruin the covering in that area where you are applying so much heat, but covering is easy to fix--much better than the situation you have now, and I believe that when you first opened it, it was Dave Pattrick's to fix, now that you've assembled it--knowing it was off, it is yours to fix.

2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

Also, I don't think I would trust the joint if I had heated it, moved it that much, and let it cure again. I dont' know if the glue would be as strong as it once was. Better to be safe than sorry. Just completely remove it and start over, I think. He needs to do some sanding and re-fitting to get it right anyhow!