toddblose

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This is my 2nd Da-Ja-Vu so I have decided to take the time and do a build thread on this one. Plane is the Da-Ja-Vu designed by Matt Kimbro with some input
from Chip. The plane is from CA Models and paint by Chip Hyde at Hydesigns both in Argentina. I am also sure Chris Moon at F3A Unlimited will also be adding the plane
to his growing line of F3A planes. First I will give all of the weights then on to the build. Just let me know if you have any questions on the build.

Weights
Rudder (split) 75g
R-stab 120g (all paint)
L-Stab 125g (all paint)
R-wing 395g (paint and ultracote)
L-wing 405g (paint and ultracote)
Fuse with canopy 1035g
Gear x2 100g
wheel paints x2 10g

toddblose

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First thing will be installing the landing gear. The gear are mounted just like the Visa, so it can be a little difficult to get this done right. First I make up a template of the part of the gear the slides into the fuse. Then using the template I will mark the holes on the gear plate. The battery tray is already mounted so you might need to drill through it to get to the spot you need. You will need to grind the bottom of the gear slot to get the gear to go all of the way in place. Then you can use a C-clamp to hold the gear in place if needed. I will pre drill the holes first in the plate then slide the gear in. Once you have the gear in place the use the drill to mark the holes ( don't try to drill all the way through the gear because you can go through the bottom of the fuse). After the holes are marked the take the gear out and drill. The blind nuts will be pressed into the bottom of the gear so I drill them to the size of the blind nut. On trick you can d is use a small counter sink this will help the blind nut start and also makes iit easier to press in place. After they are installed then you are ready to bolt them in place. One other trick is to leave a 1/16 inch gap between the gear and the fuse. This will keep the gear form hitting the fuse in a rough landing and chipping paint on the fuse

toddblose

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Most builds I would start on the motor install at this time but I am waiting on the Hyde mount so I will move on the the stab. Since the servos are mounted in the fuse and the stabs cover the servos it is very important to set the stabs at 0. The way I do this on the Da-Ja-Vu is to start at the canopy base. The canopy base on this plane can be used to set the stab. First I will set the base at 0 then put the stab on and set it to 0 ( I also replace the carbon tube with an 1/8in aluminum solid rod) After this is done I will use a marker
and mark where the bottom of the stab is. This will give me a reference where the servo will nee to be.

toddblose

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There are 2 ways to mount the servos. I mount them in the fuse and have just the horn coming out if the stab for a cleaner look, you can also mount them in the stab if you choose too. After the stab is set then I will cut out the fuse for the servo. Then you will need to hollow out the stab and cut a slot for the servo arm to come through. I will then put the stab in place the mark where the rudder servos will need to go ( if you are running the standard rudder then the servo will mount in the tray under the canopy and pull pull to the rudder) this is only done with the split rudder. I then add light ply for a backup plate to ensure the screws have something to hold on to.This does not effect the CG ( I just move the 10S pack forward)Once the servos are mounted you can hinge the Elevators and the rudder and hook up the controls. I use the Central Hobbies BB rod ends and .70 Solid Carbon rod and CA in place.

Servo Arms DUB673 (the horn with 5 holes used on all serfaces)
Screws CHMSMS100 from Central Hobbies

toddblose

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Sorry for the delay but I had to finish up a repair on a plane and have it ready by Sunday.
Scott Mcharg's Da-Ja-Vu arrived to day so I spent this evening getting it caught up to mine and finish the thread
with his plane. I will show the weights of his plane, since he went with the ultracote wings and stabs. I will give the weight of both planes
so you can see the difference between them when I am done..


Scotts Da-Ja-Vu weights

Rudder (split) 75g
L-stab (ultracote) 90g
R-stab (ultracote) 90g
L-wing (ultracote) 350g
R-wing (ultracote) 335g
Fuse with canopy 1075g
gear x 2 100g
wheel paints x 2 15g

pattratt

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Todd

The following are my weighhts:

Stabs- Hinged,& servo flat boxes installed
R-111.0g
L-110.0g
Rudder- 78.1g solid
Wheel pants- 19.8g for set
Gear- 116g set
Canopy 139.0g Balsa lined version
Fuse- 959.0g Total with Canopy 1098.0g
Wings- Monokote bottom with ailerons
Left- 381.5g
Right- 371.9
SFG's- 9.0 for both
Wing tube 55.5g new PBG tubes on the way

Todd the firewall template sent did not even come close to fitting. Have you made your own template and if so could you fax a trace to me at 282-361-0127.

Thanks
Dick

toddblose

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No problem, it will be later this afternoon before I can get home

pattratt

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Thanks
Dick

Passport1

My Feedback: (8)

Hey Todd scan and send me the firewall template. Marcelo has tried to get it right for the inrunners but with not ever finishing a de ja vu here it has turned into a little issue it seems.

Thanks

C

toddblose

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I will get it to you after work today.

I will get the thread caught up tonight, sorry everyone for the delay

pattratt

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Chip
I also made a template that will fit the De-Ja-Vu and Neu utilizing your dads original flow thru soft mount that goes on the front of the firewall and will pass thru the firewall for R&R. It's slightly larger than Todd's as it mounts 1/8" further back from the nose. This template will also work with the newer smaller soft mount minus approx 1/8" all the way around. Note that after adding the required blind nuts for the newer mount there is less than 1/4oz. difference in weight! I use the template to trace on to a 1/4" end grain carbon fiber balsa plate that is very strong and light. If you or anyone else needs a copy let me know!
Dick

toddblose

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Motor is next now that I have the Hyde mounts. To make sure I have the firewall in the right place I will take the motor and place it in the mount. I then take and measure from the thrust washer to the back of the mount with a set of calipers, this will give me the depth of the fire wall andI use the calipers to set the firewall to the nose ring. ( this has been the easiest way for me I use to mount everything to the firewall and try to set in place). Since the Hyde mount goes through the front of the plane you will need to cut out the nose ring of the plane to get the mount in. After I have the firewall where I want it I will use Foam Safe CA and tack it in place.( this way I can remove and start over if needed) Then I will put the motor and mount in the plane use the spinner back plate to line everything up and drill the holes. After the motor is mounted I will add the tail ring and support then glue into place using Hysol epoxie.

Here is what I used for the Firewall and tail mounts
CST Composites
Carbon Fiber Sandwich Panel
0.118" Rohacell Core
0.010" Thick Carbon Fiber

Fixed Wing

Very nicely done on the motor installation Todd!

toddblose

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Thanks Dean
Next set at this time will be the wheel paints. I under stand that there are many ways of mount the paints but this is very easy
and holds up great. First I will drill a 4-40 clearance hole in the paints. I will use a T shaped 1/8 light play and glue into place using
CA and some clamps. Next drill the same size hole in the gear and a clearance hole for a servo mounting screw 1/4 in straight up
from the axle hole. Next I will mount the both paints using the axle and axle screw only. Then I will set the plane on the gear and paints
on a flat surface and set the plane to 0. Once the plane is at 0 I will drill the hole into the paints for the servo screw. Then I put the servo screw
in and tighten. Flip the plane back over and remove the axles only, then cut the servo screw ( so it does not hit the wheel) then put CA on the screw then around where the axle goes. This will strength the wood so the axle will not collapse the wood. Then put the wheel on the axle and use some loctite and install the axle and wheel.

Axles NMPAXLEFGL from Central Hobbies
Servo screws CHMSMS100 from Central Hobbies

toddblose

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Almost done with both planes. I still have some stuff to add but wanted to put these pic's up.

toddblose

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Here is Scotts top and bottom

toddblose

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Mounting the aileron servos is next. The wings come covered so the servo hole needs to be cut out. I always use a new blade and cut the hole out and leave 3/16 inch all the way around and iron the excess into the servo hole. I then cut the rails (using 1/4 x 3/8 spruce) and pre fit all rails. Then I will use the calipers to set the depth of the rails. Once the rails are glued in you can mount the servo. Since all of the servo leads are always too short you will need to use an extension. I always use heat shrink to make sure that they don't come unplugged. This plane has SFG's so the slots are pre cut but the covering and or paint will need to be removed. On the painted wing you can use some sand paper to clean the edges. Then just slide the SFG into place and CA.

toddblose

My Feedback: (10)

I now have both planes done and ready to fly. I am still going to add some stuff to the thread but wanted to get the weights of both planes on the thread.

My setup (Painted wings and stabs ultracote bottom wings only)
Futaba 14MZ 2.4
Futaba 6008 HS rx 2.4
Motor Neu F3a
ESC Castel ICE HV 80 Lite
Servos 4- 9650 Rudder and Elevator
Aileron 2- BLS 551
Spinner CA
Prop APC 20 x 15
RX battery FlightPower 800
Motor batteries F3A Unlimited 5S x2
SmartFly 6v pattern reg.
Futaba Switch
Maxxs arming switch

Weight 4920


Scotts (Ultracote wing and stabs)
Futaba 10 C 2.4
Futaba 6008 HS rx 2.4 rx
Motor Neu F3a
ESC Castel ICE HV 80 with heatsink
Servos 4- 9650 Rudder and Elevator
Aileron 2- 9151
Spinner CA
Prop APC 20 x 15
RX battery FlightPower 800
Motor batteries F3A Unlimited 5S x2
Tech Aero "FlexReg" and switch
Maxxs arming switch

Weight 4850

toddblose

My Feedback: (10)

Here are some inside pic's of Scotts
I also posted a pic of the BB rod end. It is very important to have the screw go through the side where you see most
of the BB if not the rod end can slip off of the bearing causing big problems

toddblose

My Feedback: (10)

I have been asked to show how I cut the spinners so I will get that on tomorrow. The carbon spinners can be cut using a Dremel with the saw blade and the small
sanding drum also I will explain how the split rudder is installed.

There were some people that wanted to know if you can do the Split Rudder with the Futaba 10C and the answer is Yes. Scott is running the
10C and he has the Split Rudder on his plane.

smcharg

My Feedback: (1)

See below

toddblose

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I have had some people asking how I did the split rudder on the Futaba 10C and also how Scotts plane is setup.
So this is how I did the split rudder with the 10C.. I am attaching pic's of the TX in the program screen. The first 4
program mixes are used for rud to elev. rud to ail. rud to thr. and thro. to rud.. Mixes 5, 6, and 7 are used for the split rudder
I use the ailvator mix for the elevators that uses channels 2 and 8. The rudder uses 4 and 6 and the ail diff uses 1 and 7.
Not sure If the other mixes will be used so the are set to 0 and I will adjust during the first flights if needed.
Just let me know if you have any questions and view the pic's in order to get the split rudder to work.

toddblose

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Cutting out the Spinner.
First I will take some paper and draw the base of the spinner, this will give me a line to base the cut on. Next I will take and draw the shape of the prop then cut it off and this is what I use to draw on the spinner. Be sure not to make the cut on the seam of the spinner. The I will set the template on the spinner and trace the cut out. I make a cut with with a Dremel saw wheel and then finish with the small sanding drum. I have already finished the spinners so I used a wheel paint to show the steps..

toddblose

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Looks like no test flights this weekend...

Doug Cronkhite

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What the hell? That's Texas? Ship it out here to me Todd.. we never see that funny white stuff!