Rendegade

Has anyone tried the canaliser from the kit? Did it make an appreciable difference?

What about the wing fences?

tclaridge

I started without the canaliser. Needed about 3% mix elevator in knife edge. Put the canaliser on, and the mix went to 0 deg. I also think it tracked better in wind. This is also the same experience of one other Wind 110 pilot. I recommend using it.

I did not try the wing fences.

Rendegade

will test this weekend. satuday with, sunday without.

I did notice a big change in KE ability and tracking after fitting the L/G fairings.

tIANci

I must try mine too ... only thing is I am worried that I would break it when I transport her, I am kinda that sort of a guy. Hehehe ... anyone tried the wing fences? Any difference in flying?

borabora22

My Feedback: (6)

I am trying to decide between the 50 or 110. Here is my question. Is the field set up on the 110 two screws for each wing and 4 screws for the canopy? Also I noticed in the manual they say flight failure will or may occur with a power dive! Never seen that before in an R/c kit or ARF!!!

Rendegade

it's two and two.

It's a lightly build aircraft. If you want something that can do power-on downlines, then this isn't the right plane for the job.

I'm as for most f3a/pattern pilots, the idea of doing a power-on downline causes our brains to short out. We're always trying to slow the downline as much as we dare!

Velco

I have found that using even 1 screw is more than enough for the canopy.  And to be more precise on the answer regarding the wings, you need 1 screw per wing.

DronN

About dives.
Guys, this airplane is as tough as the Angel 50. I occasionally stop flying routines with Wind, and do some crazy stuff. Yes, it includes full thro dives with aggressive pullouts..
Very tight KE turns on full Thro, KE spins, blender parodies (can't do them good, too small elev.) I would say this plane is hard or impossible to kill, at least I cannot do it.

About Mixes and T-Canalizer.

T canalizer helps very much in integrated rolls, figure M in P11 is much easier to do, yet I find a bit too less side area in Wind, I'd like to see more. I will try wing fences tomorrow and report my observations and try to video it.

I hated the plane at first, I had turnigy SK motor in it on 19x12W prop (to get some watts out of it) It died once, I fixed it, last week it threw a pole (windings burned on one pole due to short with stator) I replaced the motor with !350! KV one that I could get in LHS, and I needed one fast. I was sceptic, but man, 17x12, 2300w= AWESOME!! I did some brake programming, and I can honestly say- 17x12 is enough to do same speed uplines and downlines!

This plane likes speed, I flew it on 19x12w before, snaps where wobbly, flight itself was not great.
Now it is a different story, with all mixed out- this is super great piece of airplane.

Mixes:

My plane is imperfect, at correct CG (45 degree upline slowly goes to horizon)
I have 3% downline, 6% rudder to ele to one side, and 4% to the other, Rudder to aileron is 3&5% accordingly.



Servos.
If I would build new Pattern plane, I would build 2 meter one, not WindS 110.

If you want to have competetive Wind 110, Aileron and elevator servos must be JR digitals, my Hitecs are not so precise as I would want, 7775's on wings are ok, but digital Mini's (5945 or whatever it is (hitec has only one digital mini) ) are not as sensitive and smooth. This is seen when you program a mix of let's say 4% to rudder, and it only starts to move at the end of the stick, I would say- they have small resolution.

Batts.

On wind, 8S is the way IMO, 10S weight would kill KE stuff because of weight.

In no wind conditions Wind is a perfect airplane, when wind comes up, you better pray for it to stop blowing


I have about 150 flights on mine, and ~20 on new motor, I won few local competitions as well as Nationals, but I doubt I can put it against 2M.

Velco

Last weekend my scorpion 4035-250 made a screeching noise in the uplines so I immediately came down. On the ground it also made that same noise at 75% throttle. At home I dismantled it and the front ring holding the stator had moved by some 6-7mm. Everything was put back in place and I was hoping that this would have solved the problem. I did inspect the magnets and the windings and they did show some markings but nothing serious. Also all the magnets seemed to be glued OK. But, there was also some white hard stuff in between some magnets that could move around in between them? I guessed that it was may be used for balancing the rotor?

Today at the field again the same problem at 75% throttle! I opened it up again immediately but could not find the cause. A friend is saying that it also might be an ESC (Jeti Spin 99) and that it makes that sound when 1 phase is gone?

Well, I do not trust that motor any longer so I am most probably getting a Hacker 5016L V2, that just came out. Unfortunately I would have to prop down to 16x10 as I want to stay with 10S.

But something else also came to my mind. Has someone tried or even considered using a back mounted motor on the Wind 110? Would strengthening the wall which is usually used for the bearing which supports the motor from the back be enough? And if yes, how it should be strengthened?

There is one motor which in that case fits perfectly and it is Koratop 40, check the dimensions

http://www.kontronik.com/images/stories/produkte/einzelne/masszeichnungen/Kora_Top_40.jpg

I really want to stay on 10S so all suggestions are welcome.

Velco

Boogie

First resolder all the connectors and try your Scorpion again. It might solve the problem.

mdjohnson

Try reprogramming the ESC. Sometimes they lose their minds.

Velco

Thanks guys, will do all of that. My programming is in manual mode so I will check again all the parameters. Timing is at 5deg as suggested by Scorpion and the F3A brake was not used so far.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

I've had my ESC reset itself; I sent it back in as Castle wanted to investigate and sent me a replacement. Not sure if this happened but I've heard 2.4ghz phones can interfere and reset the ESC settings.

bedowinn

Sounds familiar.
You might try cooling the motor after each flight for 1 minute. The abuse we subject these motors to leads to alot of heat that needs to be blown away.
The 4035-250 is supposed to get some reliability upgrades. Check with Lucien at innov8tive.
Another possibility is an AXI 5320/34 front mounted. You will need to modify the motor box. It seems more reliable, but it's not the stump puller the 4035-250 is on 10S.

Velco

bedowin,

my setup was pulling mere 54A static for a total of 2kW and probably in the air it was 90% of the time around 1Kw. I would always taxi back from the runway and that would ensure cooling down of the motor, I was regularly checking the temperature after landing and it was 40C outside and 60C inside the casing and I was not using the rear support. I had not more than 20 flights on it. Well if this is the quality I should expect from Scorpion it is really bad.

I am considering also AXI 5320-28 with 250kV but I really do not get it how did that thing fit in? I know there is one picture here in the thread but it doesn't tell much about the mod. It would be HIGHLY appreciated if someone can explain more in detail about it.

Velco

tIANci

My 4035-250 on 10S is still holding up but I have not flown her that much yet ... may want to prop down to a 17x10 or 18x8. I probably got a mere 40 flights max on her ...

Velco

bedowinn,

just realized you were the one to post this photo. Can you please give some more details about the mod.

Thank you

rix

Do some of you just not like the recommended Hacker for this application? It seems everyone has the most success with it.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Update on Scorpions: still being told "soon" every time I call for my warranty rePlacement; bunch of b.s. Anyway, new production 4035s have integrated retaining ring for magnets. Updated design for stronger materials with better cooling and slightly lower kv not expected until end of year. Not sure how well it will fit as it is going to be a V2 design similar to the other series, different casing.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Lol I didn't get hacker for no good reason. Read Heziks posts in 2 forums about lack of pOwer in headwinds and loops. Should have read with a grain of salt, plane flies great with hacker.

hezik

I have always said it flies fine with the Hacker.. but it's not perfect. Perfect would be slightly more power. Fly a loop in 15~20kts headwinds and you'll see what I mean.

So yes.. I never ment to say the Hacker is no good or really has too little power. It's a finesse thing.

rix

So is there a motor that will not fall apart and give better performance than the Hacker on 8s?

Velco

I did not get Hacker because of the higher kV compared to 4035-250 and with Hacker on 10S you would need to prop down to 16x10. As Wind 110 penetrates very good you loose a lot of  that braking effect you have with 18" or 17" props on downlines.

The V2 A5016L Hacker is available now, same kV and slightly lower mass from V1, rear fan and probably incorporates some more modifications where V1 was weak. I would really like to put an AXI or Kontronic in but if that is not possible I will put a Hacker V2 and start using the F3A brake.

hezik

The Hacker C50 inrunner on 8s or 10s. It's also what Sebart advices as the competition setup.

Also the Turnigy 'hacker A50-lookalike' does fine, however, also has some quality issues. If you get a good one, then it has just that bit of extra oempf, runs cooler and more efficient than the Hacker A50.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

There are some Neu inrunners that are a direct fit if you want to run 8S; need to use standard gear box, not P42/HD.