bigguyplanes

My Feedback: (1)

Looking for a new or used set of retracts for the Beech.
Thanx Allen

mewzella

If you are wanting new tower still has them in stock.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAYN2&P=7

bigguyplanes

My Feedback: (1)

Thanx, but I was hoping for a used set first.

bigguyplanes

My Feedback: (1)

Anyone using a G-26 in their Stagg ? What prop did you find the best >
Thanx

roadtrip

Has anyone had a problem with the tail wheel collapsing? I'm ready to fly the maiden. I have the recommended 90 oz-in. Futaba servo installed, but when I set it on the ground, the tail wheel will collapse. Just setting it on the ground! I certainly don't want to chance it on a landing! What can I do here? The gears aren't stripped. Are there any special adjustments I can make?[&o]

knucklebutt

Road

Never heard of this problem: I assume you are using the robart tailwheel. I might suggest you go back and verify all the set up, might even pull the unit out to see what might be causing this, as I'm sure there is some sort of "down lock" system


Denis

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

I have a OS 160 (26cc) and it flies it just fine. Nitro puts out more power than gas so I would probably go with a 35cc engine minimum with gas. Just my 2cents worth.

hopkimf

My Feedback: (56)

I'm new to this post. I have a Top Flite Staggerwing and am just getting started on it. Power will be a G26. Is there anything unusual I should watch for. It all looks pretty good by eye. Maybe not for a few details. First thing I did was put the throttle servo in and found the screws (9/16 socket head servo screws) would not hold. The tray is pretty light and thin. Then I saw the instructions call for drops of CA. OK, but I've never had to do this before on any of the 30-40 ARFs and kits I've built. Also noticed the instructions call for epoxy for the wing servo mount blocks followed by a tiny screw and more CA. Is this necessary? I've never had a problem there unless I crashed it.

Thanks,
Mike Hopkins

kochj

I assume you are talCing about placing drops of CA into the hols you drilled when you placed you
servos???

The CA will harden the wood (after you place the screws and taCe them bacC out)

I have done this on EVERY single ARF and Cit that I have put togeter....

Fairly standard behaviour....

Hope that helps...

njmheli

Hi to all on this Staggerwing forum.

I am new to RC Universe and I have been building the T/F Staggerwing for the last couple of months................managed to get hold of the last "kit" left in the UK ( I think ) !!! Had the usual "slight" quality problems that appear to have been a source of talk over the years on the T/F ARTF kit,not sure how "old" my kit was,although the box was a little dirty and "aged" !!!
I have been reading all of the threads with great interest and have found it very helpfull,although only having found these threads after most of the build was completed !!!

For my kit I have used the new Saito FA 200R3 Radial along with a collector ring from "Kelvin "and will be using a APC 17 x 8 prop,all fits in very nicely under the cowl ( apart from the prop!!!).........RC gear I am using 2.4 JR,along with Spektrum powersafe RX and servos ( A6020's ).The U/C is the std from Robart,but these are being retro-fitted to electric by Down and Locked in the US ( hope to have these back very soon ),tail wheel is opertated by another servo,which is mixed with the u/c channel and also has a servo slow acting on it.........so I get a nice slow tail wheel retract....but still have a good "lock-down" action.

I suspect that Bob's problem a couple of threads back is that the action from the servo or air cylinder does not give the extra movement to allow for a +ve locking travel.

As said,my build is almost done,just awaiting the U/C back from the US,then to do the C of G..............again,having read the threads about this aspect,I am still a little confused to the exact position ( probably having a"thick" moment !!! )

Will post some pics when I can move back into my "hangar"..........

Cheers...........Nick (UK)

hopkimf

My Feedback: (56)

Thanks for the comments kochj. I'll do that. Maybe I'm resisting because I'm allergic to CA and need to use odorless. Meantime I've read most of the threads and everything seems to fit. No wing dowel problems. I didn't plan to put on retracts, but I really should. Is there any lower cost, workable alternatives out there? Robart is about $250 from Tower not counting air valve, etc.

Thanks,
Mike Hopkins

Free Bird

Nick - how much are they charging you to change the gear to electric? Very interested going this route with my Staggerwing.

Also for you guys that have flown this model. I'm looking to install a 30cc gasser (Syssa 180HP) which a pretty power full engine. Question is: will this engine be enough? Thanks for the help guys!

FB

njmheli

Hi FB.

The conversion was £350-00 plus shipping and insurance..............so quite alot of $'s.

Only received the units back today ( 6th Jan )..........so working at getting it all in and running asap.

Cheers............Nick.

njmheli

Hi FB.

I looked at the "lado" route to get the electric conversion,cost there is about $220-00............but these actuators have not been in stock for some months.Christophe who runs Lado from France gives a great service when he has the items in stock,deliver is very fast along with great communication and tracking details.I purchased a set for my H9 Corsair,look great and work very well.

Down and locked is a bit more involved for the conversion..........Lado you can do yourself ( see threads a few pages back )..........D & L,you send the Robarts back to them. Mitch at D & L,will reply to your enquiry quickly,answering any questions you may have.

Check out www.downandlocked.com

Will post some photos.........when I can work out how to do it !!!!

Cheers...........Nick (UK)

njmheli

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njmheli

Hi FB.

I have just finished my installation of the Down and Locked U/C conversion...............very pleased with the results.works great with a realistic speed for up and down and together with the "slowed" tail wheel retract looks the part !!!

Just a bit of work with the Dremel to give a bit more clearance for the motor/jackscrew set up,so as to allow the wires not to foul on the fibreglass,as on this conversion the motorand jackscrew travel along the retract chassis,the jack screw protruding out of the extension that was added to the Robarts.

Nick (UK)

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

I was an early buyer of a set of Lados (before things got bad and Christophe bought in). They're a great product, if you can get them. I looked at Down and Locked at a fly-in last spring and was really impressed with the product and the guys making it. They're doing it right. If they had been available when I was assembling my S/W, I'd have gone with them instead of Lado.

mobyal

Hey Paul
I had the Robarts on my H9 B25 converted by Down and Locked. Absolutely first rate in every respect. I'm going to have the ones for the Staggerwing converted as soon as I get around to taking them out of the airplane.
Hope you're well.
Al

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

Hi Al!

I'm doing great, thanks! Hope you're the same. I was really impressed by the Down & Locked guys. They've got a great product and it sounds like their customer service is outstanding. I'm planning to send them the gear from one of my Byron Staggerwings for conversion. It's a pain to get out of the plane but it would be great to get away from the air system. Are you coming down to the Perry, GA swap meet this spring?

Paul

njmheli

Pictures of the Down and Locked "Robarts"

Nick (UK)

njmheli

Pictures of my Saito FA 200 R3 installation on my Staggerwing.

Nick (UK)

knucklebutt

Nick

What on board glow system do you use ??


Denis

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

Nick,

Great looking radial installation! I flew mine for a season with the Saito 1.70 radial. It needed a bunch of lead up front to balance. I believe it took 26 ounces. Your setup should be significantly better. Do you fly from a paved or grass strip? With the 1.70, mine needed every foot of a 300'+ grass strip for takeoff. It was a knee-knocker! I changed to an Enya 2.4 v-twin and have a surplus of horsepower now! I think you may have hit upon the perfect combination. When is the maiden?

Paul

njmheli

Hi Dennis.

At the moment I don't intend to run any "on-board" glow..............I beleive that the FA 200 R3 has been slightly "re-enginered" from the FA 170 R3,having more cc and more power ( depending on your choice of fuel used,this will also add more power )According to their "instructions" any on-board glow system is not required !!!
I have a "back-up" plan in mind,should the need arise.........there is a manufacturer here in the UK that does some great on-board glow systems for singles all the way up to multi's.....a sort of modular system that you can add to for the use in multi's.Their system monitors the temperature of the "glow" plug ( I assume by somehow measuring the current being taken by the plug ie: resistance varies with temperature )........this system keeps the plug at the optimum temperature for operation and hence protects from "plug burn out".

Can post a link if you are interested?

Cheers..............Nick

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

I'll be very interested to hear if your radial will run without onboard glow. Every Saito radial I've had so far - and that's more than a few - have been unable to keep the bottom left (facing the engine) cylinder lit. Let us know how it performs.