rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

David,

I wouldn't run a 3-blade if I were you. You will be giving up some performance. One of the advantages of a 3-blade on a glow setup is constant speed up and down, you can get the same effect with the added performance by using the brake on the motor.


Arch

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

A range does not mean the thing is optimized.

You need to optimize the ESC setting for your preferred choice of the prop and battery pack combo. By that I mean to play with different value combinations and find the optimal settings.

With my HIMAX 6330, I found that sampling rate can play a role in the amount of thrust that the motor can deliver, which means I do not have to set the timing too advanced when the sampling rate is set at 12KHZ.

On the cooling side, I would recommend to rear-mount the motor and expose the motor partially in the air (in my case it is 30% of its side area).

Hope this helps.

tIANci

Wanna ask you guys something. I know that some car guys use the EPA of the radio on their throttle to cut down on performance. As I am using a 10S set up on my Scorpion 4035-250 and many have stated it will tend to throw a magnet on 10S, what is I were to cut down on my EPA and prop her for an 8S set up? It would give me much more duration as I am flying her 10S on an 8S power when WOT. Any comments? Will reducing the EPA change the feel of the throttle if I were not to adjust my throttle point when on 10S?

Just wondering when my motor will throw her magnet esp when its about 30C here. Thanks!

hezik

It would be better just to mount a slightly smaller prop then..

dunno what you're flying with now, but say you would be using a 19x12 prop now, and notice the engine is running hot, and have done everything to get the cooling maximal, then I'd switch to an 18x12 prop, and so on..

Does your engine get warm?

Mike Wiz

My Feedback: (2)

Well just putting the finishing touches on my second Wind 110. I gotta check balance and maybe shift the batteries a little and then set up the throws. I'm not real happy with having to undo 2 screws to open the battery hatch. I'd like a faster method of attaching and unattaching it. I was considering using some powerful magnets and a couple of pins in place the the screws. What do think? Have any of you done something else?

Velco

Same thing here. I bougth some magnets and a canopy latch to put it at the top back end of the hatch. I still have to think it through but will post the photos once the mod is done.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

There are reports of failure when not isinglass the screws. Canopy is pretty flimsy.

Mike Wiz

My Feedback: (2)

I know of a guy that thought the magnets alone that were supplied with the kit would work. He lost a canopy. I wasn't planning on doing that. I think my idea of using pins and magnets in the screw holes will work just fine.

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

I used two tiny nyron screws to hold the bottom hatch of my converted sequel in place. I did not go the magnet or hatch pin idea because of extra weight and not 100% secure.

On my passport, the canopy is secured via two hooks at front and one hatch pin at the top back.

tIANci

Hezik ... yeah its more than just warm. I should just prop down then. Makes more sense! LOL!!!

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Yeah, pins should work. I was thinking magnets w/ canopy latch would fail; canopy needs the rear sides secured. I hate the screws too, so keep us posted.

Looking forward to flying together this season, if you make it back out this way.

Tianci, have you tried adjusting the air flow through the plane? I wonder how much that would help.

rix

The Futaba 9650's has additional mounting tabs molded into the case which is not going to allow installation into the stabs without removing them. For those who used this servo with the Wind, did you need to remove the tabs? I hate the thought of taking a dremel to a new servo and there is not enough mounting surface in the stab to cut away to make room. How did you go about mounting them?

Thank you

Mike Wiz

My Feedback: (2)

I probably wont make it out your way. The closest I might come is the Week Signals contest, assumming they are still going to have one. I need to keep things frugal these days and travel to out of town contests is not in the budget.

Rendegade

OK guys, I need some putting to rest of my fears, or time to go have a good look at the plane.

1. Ona breezy day does everyone get that weird BRAWWWWN noise out of the prop (I assume flutter or something) during snaps and higher G maneuvres? If not, should I be worried? I'm running an A50-16L with an 18x10.

2. Snaps: It took me a while to figure out that if I want to snap cleanly, I really have to snap "correctly" that is, lead with elevator,and reduce elev input to zero through the maneuvre and finish with ail and rudder only. What about you guys? Same? Different?

3. Braking. Man, I agree with hezik, this thing comes down at a rate. I've got a %50 brake on now, and it's not enough. ALso does everyone get that CLUNK when coming off brake? Makes me worry my nose will part company with the fuse!

Apart from that, It's taken some getting used to, in the way it'll stop on a stall turn. I'm so used to having an idleing 140 to pull me over the top, I couldn't figure out what was wrong, untill I figured there was no wind over the tail! haha!

InboundLZ

My Feedback: (10)

Tomorrow (Saturday) is maiden day. I have not received the batteries I have coming for the 110 so I will be using a set of 4S 3700mah for the maiden. I will just keep the flight times down as required.

My setup is as follows:

Hacker A50-16L
Castle Creations Ice 100 speed control
APC 18x10E prop
A123 RX pack
JR R921 9 channel RX
JR 4131 servos on ailerons
JR 3421 servos mounted in the stabs
JR DS821 servo on rudder ( soon to be changed to a DS8231 )
8S 4900 mah ( as soon as they arrive)
Powerpole 45 amp connectors on all connections

Hope it flys half as good as she looks!

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

I think you can adjust the 'clunk' by adjusting the brake ramp, i.e. try something other than 'immediate' or something like that. I had it to, but fixed it.

I had to get used to using throttle for stalls, too, but now stalls are EASY!

What brand prop?

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

Stall turn will be easier if CG is moved forward.

A123 pack probably is on heavier side. I use 480mah thunder power pro lite lipo & smartfly regulator for a total weight of 1.6oz.

Not sure if 45A connectors are enough for 8s. 4mm bullet connectors are rated at 100A. Light and secure.

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Don't forget that Powerpoles are rated for very high voltage (200+) and thus high power applications. Many of us are using the 30A and 45A connectors on 10S with absolutely no issues.

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

I have not used power-pole connectors on EP-systems. Just make sure they are rated for the amount of current that the motor is able to draw. Otherwise, the connector will run hot.

Some people is using power-pole connectors on ignition of a gas engine, which is subject to great deal of vibrations. They can fail under that condition.

Rendegade

thanks for the input guys, now what about that noise in snaps?

InboundLZ

My Feedback: (10)

Guys, the maiden was perfect! Like I said, I only had two 4S 3700 mah packs available to me so I kept flight times down to about 4 minutes total.

Which brings me to a question, what kind of flight times should I expect with 8S 4900 packs?

Rendegade

I'm getting about 2 runs at the F3A P-11 with a 5000 pack. that's about 10 minutes I reckon, and with that I'm putting in about 3300.

Now back to the noise. I swapped the APC 18x10e for a Tunighy electric 18x10 and I went from 75A full power to 65. I notice I need more power on the verticals, however that's no worries, but the throttlability appears more linear, and the noise is gone.

Amaze!


Now for the strange thing. I have a switch to kick in a low idle, above the brake, I had it initally at about 100rpm, and wound it up to 150, and the change in downline braking is quite marked!

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

I have a Turnigy electric prop as well. I also noticed less current draw with the Turnigy, but also a lot less 'pull'. The plane really jumps out of the pits and off the ground with the APC, needs a bit more throttle and time with the Turnigy. APC seems to be a stronger prop, but if the Turnigy fixes your noise issues and gives satisfactory performance, then that's great.

I guess you could try a Turnigy 19x10 as you now can afford a little more current usage. Don't think they have an 18x12, but Xoar has 18x12 and 18x13 electric props.

I'm thinking hard about a prop change for this season. Currently using 10S and an APC 18x12e. Might try an 18x12 carbon, or possibly an APC 18x12 glow prop. Hearing a lot lately about electric propeller inefficiency at larger diameters and the RPM we're running. Basically people say to expect LESS current draw with a heavier prop. More pull, more efficiency, at the sacrifice of roughly 2oz with APC glow, much less with carbon.

Velco

I am pulling 54A static with Turnigy Light Electric 17x10 and honestly do not feel the need for any more power. I have unlimited vertical at 70% throttle and my Wind is at 4,5kg.

I have experimented a lot with props on my Element 30. I used 12x8 from APC, TGS, Aeronaut and Turnigy LE. And the conclusion is:

Performance wise (most to least): TGS, APC, Turnigy, Aeronaut

Current draw wise: TGS, APC, Aeronaut, Turnigy

Noise wise: TGS, APC, Aeronaut, Turnigy

Also Turnigy was most constant during even the most aggressive maneuvers both performance wise and noise wise because it is the most stiff from the a.m.

The only problem with Turnigy is that they are extremely sensitive, even taxiing in the low grass can damage the prop not to mention the care you need during transport. That is why I bought some very nice socks for my props  .

Velco

huison2005